Need some advice

On Sat, 24 Jun 2006 17:35:38 -0500, "Kevin" > wrote:

>
>"Lawrence Glickman" > wrote in message
.. .
>>
>> I was rotating tires and working on my disc brakes today, and when I
>> pulled the caliper slide pins, noticed they were in good shape and
>> well lubed with a drippy lubricant like oil.
>>
>> Then I got the idea of ADDING antiseize to them, and reinserted the
>> caliper slide pins with BOTH antiseize and that drippy oil on them.
>>
>> Question is, did I **** up? If so, should I get out there now and try
>> to clean out/off the antiseize?
>>
>> Lg
>>
>It depends on the type of antiseize you used. Most are petroleum based and
>will deteriorate any rubber seals or rubber brake parts they come in contact
>with. Shimano antiseize is one of many that will not harm rubber parts. I
>can't say what was already on the slide pins, so I have no idea of weather
>or not the compound you used will react adversely with it. There are many
>chemicals and compounds used as lubricants that can have adverse reactions
>when mixed. Because you are talking about bake parts, you should consider
>the safety aspect of any adverse reactions that are possible and go back to
>do the repair correctly. A silicone based lubricant such as disc brake lube
>is the recommended lubricant for the slide pins. Clean everything up and
>used the right stuff.

OK ( mumbles *damnit under breath* )

I told my wife I was working on the car " Don't worry dear, I'm not
doing anything that $3,000 in repairs won't fix " ;-||||

Let me go and pull the tube of antiseize and see what it says about
this.

It's PERMATEX brand anti seize. Doesn't say what is in it, but says
it is a lubricant but not a *high speed* lubricant. I.e. don't use on
gears, anything turning at high speed. No further information on the
label concerning use/contents.

I guess I'll have to pull the g.d. wheels and calipers again.

Lg
================================================== ==========

http://www.autoaccessconnect.com/peanlu1oz.html
Permatex Anti-Seize Lubricant 1 oz.

A highly refined blend of aluminum, copper and graphite lubricants.
Use during assembly to prevent galling, corrosion and seizing on metal
to metal contact points and to assure easier disassembly. Temperature
range: -60°F to 1600°F (-51°Cto 871°C). Salt, corrosion and moisture
resistant – ideal for marine use. This non-aerosol version meets
Military Spec #907E.

Suggested Applications: For easy removal of spark plugs, cylinder head
and exhaust head bolts. Oxygen sensors. Wheel backing plates.
================================================== ===========

Now I search on Military Spec #907E....

Anti-Seize Compound, High Temperature

No further information available. IOW, if you can find:
MIL-A-907E specification, that would be a real eye opener.

Lg

"Kevin" > wrote in message
news:W6jng.58132$9c6.54953@dukeread11...
>
> "Lawrence Glickman" > wrote in message
> ...
> >
> > I was rotating tires and working on my disc brakes today, and when I
> > pulled the caliper slide pins, noticed they were in good shape and
> > well lubed with a drippy lubricant like oil.
> >
> > Then I got the idea of ADDING antiseize to them, and reinserted the
> > caliper slide pins with BOTH antiseize and that drippy oil on them.
> >
> > Question is, did I **** up? If so, should I get out there now and try
> > to clean out/off the antiseize?
> >
> > Lg
> >
> It depends on the type of antiseize you used. Most are petroleum based and
> will deteriorate any rubber seals or rubber brake parts they come in
contact
> with. Shimano antiseize is one of many that will not harm rubber parts. I
> can't say what was already on the slide pins, so I have no idea of weather
> or not the compound you used will react adversely with it. There are many
> chemicals and compounds used as lubricants that can have adverse reactions
> when mixed. Because you are talking about bake parts, you should consider
> the safety aspect of any adverse reactions that are possible and go back
to
> do the repair correctly. A silicone based lubricant such as disc brake
lube
> is the recommended lubricant for the slide pins. Clean everything up and
> used the right stuff.
> --
> Kevin Mouton

It isnt urgent, Lawrence...
If you want to redo it with the specified lubricants, within the next few
weeks
or months is normally fine...
I dont think you will have ANY problems with the elastomeric sleeves. They
dont
gfenerally use elastomers now that curl up and die easily.
Don't get panicky. I have used all sorts of greases on those slides. But,
the
silicones are recommended, and that is an easy matter to deal with.

On Sat, 24 Jun 2006 23:21:10 GMT, "MasterBlaster"
> wrote:

>
>"Lawrence Glickman" wrote
>
>> It's PERMATEX brand anti seize. Doesn't say what is in it, but says
>> it is a lubricant but not a *high speed* lubricant. I.e. don't use on
>> gears, anything turning at high speed. No further information on the
>> label concerning use/contents.
>
>http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...lubricants.htm
>
>--------------------------
>Permatex® Anti-Seize Lubricant
>
>A highly refined blend of aluminum, copper and graphite lubricants.
>Use during assembly to prevent galling, corrosion and seizing and to assure
>easier disassembly. Temperature range: -60°F to 1600°F (-51°Cto 871°C).
>Salt, corrosion and moisture resistant - ideal for marine use. Non-aerosol
>version meets Mil Spec #907E. Aerosol - Level 3*
>
>Suggested Applications: For easy removal of spark plugs, cylinder head and
>exhaust head bolts.

This is what I used. Of course it is all suspended in a petroleum
base. But guess what...the oil that was on the pins to begin with
looked like petroleum, and it was really really drippy.

>------------------------------
>Permatex® Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube
>
>An environmentally-friendly, green, nonmelting, synthetic lubricant. It is
>formulated to lubricate under the most adverse brake conditions, assuring
>that critical caliper pins, sleeves, bushings and pistons remain lubricated
>throughout pad life.
>
>Suggested Applications: Caliper pins, sleeves, bushings and pistons
>---------------------------------
>Permatex® Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube Hi-Temp Silicone Formula
>
>A silicone-based synthetic lubricating compound with outstanding temperature
>resistance. Fortified with moly for superior performance in high pressure
>conditions, this product provides continuous lubrication and has no dropping point.
>Temperature range -65°F to 550°F (-54°C to 288°C) intermittent. Maintains a
>grease-like consistency and will not liquefy, even at extreme temperatures.
>
>Suggested Applications: Disc brake caliper pins, slides, bushings, pistons and
>rubber sleeves

This is the stuff I'm supposed to be using. I hate it when **** like
this happens.

Lg


-----------------------------------

On Sat, 24 Jun 2006 23:34:37 GMT, > wrote:

>
>"Kevin" > wrote in message
>news:W6jng.58132$9c6.54953@dukeread11...
>>
>> "Lawrence Glickman" > wrote in message
>> ...
>> >
>> > I was rotating tires and working on my disc brakes today, and when I
>> > pulled the caliper slide pins, noticed they were in good shape and
>> > well lubed with a drippy lubricant like oil.
>> >
>> > Then I got the idea of ADDING antiseize to them, and reinserted the
>> > caliper slide pins with BOTH antiseize and that drippy oil on them.
>> >
>> > Question is, did I **** up? If so, should I get out there now and try
>> > to clean out/off the antiseize?
>> >
>> > Lg
>> >
>> It depends on the type of antiseize you used. Most are petroleum based and
>> will deteriorate any rubber seals or rubber brake parts they come in
>contact
>> with. Shimano antiseize is one of many that will not harm rubber parts. I
>> can't say what was already on the slide pins, so I have no idea of weather
>> or not the compound you used will react adversely with it. There are many
>> chemicals and compounds used as lubricants that can have adverse reactions
>> when mixed. Because you are talking about bake parts, you should consider
>> the safety aspect of any adverse reactions that are possible and go back
>to
>> do the repair correctly. A silicone based lubricant such as disc brake
>lube
>> is the recommended lubricant for the slide pins. Clean everything up and
>> used the right stuff.
>> --
>> Kevin Mouton


================================================== ===============
>It isnt urgent, Lawrence...
>If you want to redo it with the specified lubricants, within the next few
>weeks
>or months is normally fine...
>I dont think you will have ANY problems with the elastomeric sleeves. They
>dont
>gfenerally use elastomers now that curl up and die easily.
>Don't get panicky. I have used all sorts of greases on those slides. But,
>the
>silicones are recommended, and that is an easy matter to deal with.

Praise Allah. I only FUBARED a little bit?

Since my original post on this subject, I googled newsgroups, and see
that *some* people have used antiseize on their caliper slide pins
with no apparent adverse results. I say *apparent.*

Of course, sooner or later I have to get the Permatex ****e out of
there and put the right stuff in. I've been tossing wheels around all
day...maybe tomorrow, or maybe this weekend.

Thanks for the help.

Lg

> wrote in message
om...
>
> "Kevin" > wrote in message
> news:W6jng.58132$9c6.54953@dukeread11...
> >
> > "Lawrence Glickman" > wrote in message
> > ...
> > >
> > > I was rotating tires and working on my disc brakes today, and when I
> > > pulled the caliper slide pins, noticed they were in good shape and
> > > well lubed with a drippy lubricant like oil.
> > >
> > > Then I got the idea of ADDING antiseize to them, and reinserted the
> > > caliper slide pins with BOTH antiseize and that drippy oil on them.
> > >
> > > Question is, did I **** up? If so, should I get out there now and try
> > > to clean out/off the antiseize?
> > >
> > > Lg
> > >
> > It depends on the type of antiseize you used. Most are petroleum based
and
> > will deteriorate any rubber seals or rubber brake parts they come in
> contact
> > with. Shimano antiseize is one of many that will not harm rubber parts.
I
> > can't say what was already on the slide pins, so I have no idea of
weather
> > or not the compound you used will react adversely with it. There are
many
> > chemicals and compounds used as lubricants that can have adverse
reactions
> > when mixed. Because you are talking about bake parts, you should
consider
> > the safety aspect of any adverse reactions that are possible and go back
> to
> > do the repair correctly. A silicone based lubricant such as disc brake
> lube
> > is the recommended lubricant for the slide pins. Clean everything up and
> > used the right stuff.
> > --
> > Kevin Mouton
>
> It isnt urgent, Lawrence...
> If you want to redo it with the specified lubricants, within the next few
> weeks
> or months is normally fine...
> I dont think you will have ANY problems with the elastomeric sleeves.
They
> dont
> gfenerally use elastomers now that curl up and die easily.
> Don't get panicky. I have used all sorts of greases on those slides.
But,
> the
> silicones are recommended, and that is an easy matter to deal with.
>
>
>

Yeah, that's true. HLS is right. It isn't urgent. There is probably no need
to worry about anything disastrous happening in a short period of time.
Hell, even if the two compounds have a bad reaction it would take some time
for it to cause any problems. The worse case scenario is that the dust boots
over the slide pins will deteriorate and eventually let in moisture and crap
that might finally cause the pins to start sticking. Didn't mean to scare
you into a panic to get it done immediately.

--
Kevin Mouton
Automotive Technology Instructor
"If women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy"
Red Green

On Sat, 24 Jun 2006 18:44:15 -0500, "Kevin" > wrote:

>
> wrote in message
. com...
>>
>> "Kevin" > wrote in message
>> news:W6jng.58132$9c6.54953@dukeread11...
>> >
>> > "Lawrence Glickman" > wrote in message
>> > ...
>> > >
>> > > I was rotating tires and working on my disc brakes today, and when I
>> > > pulled the caliper slide pins, noticed they were in good shape and
>> > > well lubed with a drippy lubricant like oil.
>> > >
>> > > Then I got the idea of ADDING antiseize to them, and reinserted the
>> > > caliper slide pins with BOTH antiseize and that drippy oil on them.
>> > >
>> > > Question is, did I **** up? If so, should I get out there now and try
>> > > to clean out/off the antiseize?
>> > >
>> > > Lg
>> > >
>> > It depends on the type of antiseize you used. Most are petroleum based
>and
>> > will deteriorate any rubber seals or rubber brake parts they come in
>> contact
>> > with. Shimano antiseize is one of many that will not harm rubber parts.
>I
>> > can't say what was already on the slide pins, so I have no idea of
>weather
>> > or not the compound you used will react adversely with it. There are
>many
>> > chemicals and compounds used as lubricants that can have adverse
>reactions
>> > when mixed. Because you are talking about bake parts, you should
>consider
>> > the safety aspect of any adverse reactions that are possible and go back
>> to
>> > do the repair correctly. A silicone based lubricant such as disc brake
>> lube
>> > is the recommended lubricant for the slide pins. Clean everything up and
>> > used the right stuff.
>> > --
>> > Kevin Mouton
>>
>> It isnt urgent, Lawrence...
>> If you want to redo it with the specified lubricants, within the next few
>> weeks
>> or months is normally fine...
>> I dont think you will have ANY problems with the elastomeric sleeves.
>They
>> dont
>> gfenerally use elastomers now that curl up and die easily.
>> Don't get panicky. I have used all sorts of greases on those slides.
>But,
>> the
>> silicones are recommended, and that is an easy matter to deal with.
>>

================================================== ===========
>Yeah, that's true. HLS is right. It isn't urgent. There is probably no need
>to worry about anything disastrous happening in a short period of time.
>Hell, even if the two compounds have a bad reaction it would take some time
>for it to cause any problems. The worse case scenario is that the dust boots
>over the slide pins will deteriorate and eventually let in moisture and crap
>that might finally cause the pins to start sticking. Didn't mean to scare
>you into a panic to get it done immediately.

At least I know I can't just walk away from this. That's the
important lesson...I'm going to have to do it right sooner or later,
and probably sooner is better.

At least I have the goo that I should have used. I found it under a
pile of tubes of whatnot on the floor of my toolroom. The odd thing
is, I could have just left things the way there were, and everything
would have been OK, but no ;-) We can't do that now, can we. I have
to go and *improve* on the formula that is already on there.

I would kick myself in the a$$ if I had the energy, but what is done
is done. I'll fix it right, boss. In a couple days when I have my
Electric Lift!

Lg