Battery Suggestions

Well all, it's time to replace the battery in the Jeep. Was looking for
suggestions as to which to get.

I'm prefferably looking for something that's totally sealed (or no
matience at all). I currently run all the stock goodies for a 01
Cherokee plus:
1000 watt amp (not running it that high) with a 1 Farad Cap
Lightforce 170 Strikers (http://www.lightforceusa.com/rmdl170.html)
Cobra CB
Laptop (occasionally)
Radar Detector


I know I also need a stronger alternator soon, but before I'll put a
new one in before I add any other goodies.

TIA

Hank

Go with an Optima. There are three types, one for normal starting use, one
for deep cycle and one for marine. I recommend the deep cycle. They are
color coded, but darned if I can remember which is which right now.


"Hank" > wrote in message
oups.com...
> Well all, it's time to replace the battery in the Jeep. Was looking for
> suggestions as to which to get.
>
> I'm prefferably looking for something that's totally sealed (or no
> matience at all). I currently run all the stock goodies for a 01
> Cherokee plus:
> 1000 watt amp (not running it that high) with a 1 Farad Cap
> Lightforce 170 Strikers (http://www.lightforceusa.com/rmdl170.html)
> Cobra CB
> Laptop (occasionally)
> Radar Detector
>
>
> I know I also need a stronger alternator soon, but before I'll put a
> new one in before I add any other goodies.
>
> TIA
>
> Hank
>

Will do. Anyone know the battery color, and anyone else have any other
suggestions?

Hank

The stronger Optima is the Red Top and is best for your car, unless
your going to discharge it constantly like a golf cart:
http://www.optimabatteries.com/publi...e/starter.html
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
http://www.billhughes.com/

K Horner wrote:
>
> Go with an Optima. There are three types, one for normal starting use, one
> for deep cycle and one for marine. I recommend the deep cycle. They are
> color coded, but darned if I can remember which is which right now.

Hi Hank,
I'm happy with my Kragen, or Pep Boys batteries. I go for the
strongest that'll fit my box, usually about seven hundred Cold Crank
Amps, which are guarantied, my last I prorated was for eighty months, of
which I usually use about three years worth, before I feel it's too low
to trust, and exchange it. You'll find the Optima's life to gone in that
time also. I'd maybe which if they had a couple more stores close to my
travels to turn them in at.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
http://www.billhughes.com/

Hank wrote:
>
> Well all, it's time to replace the battery in the Jeep. Was looking for
> suggestions as to which to get.
>
> I'm prefferably looking for something that's totally sealed (or no
> matience at all). I currently run all the stock goodies for a 01
> Cherokee plus:
> 1000 watt amp (not running it that high) with a 1 Farad Cap
> Lightforce 170 Strikers (http://www.lightforceusa.com/rmdl170.html)
> Cobra CB
> Laptop (occasionally)
> Radar Detector
>
> I know I also need a stronger alternator soon, but before I'll put a
> new one in before I add any other goodies.
>
> TIA
>
> Hank

Ok, one other question. I see that there's many different types of red
top Optima's. http://www.batterymart.com/battery.mv?p=8004-003
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...t=ULT-9002-002
http://www.streetrodstuff.com/Products/758/

Which one am I looking for? I guess the one with the highest CCA's but
I'm not sure. Also, does it make a difference if I get a battery with
terminals on the top and sides vs just the top?

Hank

DieHard or OPTIMA Sears sells them both. I prefer the DieHard maintenance
free Gold but each their own.

"L.W. ("ßill") Hughes III" > wrote in message
...
> The stronger Optima is the Red Top and is best for your car, unless
> your going to discharge it constantly like a golf cart:
> http://www.optimabatteries.com/publi...e/starter.html
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> http://www.billhughes.com/
>
> K Horner wrote:
>>
>> Go with an Optima. There are three types, one for normal starting use,
>> one
>> for deep cycle and one for marine. I recommend the deep cycle. They are
>> color coded, but darned if I can remember which is which right now.

On Fri, 14 Jan 2005 21:37:42 -0800, the following appeared
in rec.autos.makers.jeep+willys, posted by "K Horner"
>:

Deep cycle batteries are designed for use in applications
like trolling motors and golf carts. They generally have
fewer and thicker plates for low-current long-discharge use,
and aren't designed for high-surge-current applications like
starter motors. They'll work, but not as well as batteries
designed for automotive use.

>Go with an Optima. There are three types, one for normal starting use, one
>for deep cycle and one for marine. I recommend the deep cycle. They are
>color coded, but darned if I can remember which is which right now.
>
>
>"Hank" > wrote in message
roups.com...
>> Well all, it's time to replace the battery in the Jeep. Was looking for
>> suggestions as to which to get.
>>
>> I'm prefferably looking for something that's totally sealed (or no
>> matience at all). I currently run all the stock goodies for a 01
>> Cherokee plus:
>> 1000 watt amp (not running it that high) with a 1 Farad Cap
>> Lightforce 170 Strikers (http://www.lightforceusa.com/rmdl170.html)
>> Cobra CB
>> Laptop (occasionally)
>> Radar Detector
>>
>>
>> I know I also need a stronger alternator soon, but before I'll put a
>> new one in before I add any other goodies.
>>
>> TIA
>>
>> Hank
>>
>

--

Bob C.

Reply to Bob-Casanova @ worldnet.att.net
(without the spaces, of course)

"The most exciting phrase to hear in science,
the one that heralds new discoveries, is not
'Eureka!' but 'That's funny...'"
- Isaac Asimov

Just a tip for everyone that reads this: those "sealed" batteries can
die from the same death as a normal battery. If you look at those nifty
top pieces of the battery that says sealed, you will see where you can
pop the 1 piece cap off and under that are normal filler ports. Just
some distilled water to top it off and it will last longer and work
much better. The only diff between a normal and sealed battery is a
slightly better vent system on the sealed that seems to conserve fluid
better. But they still get low and need topping off for max power and
life.

If you overcharge your batteries you will actually boil your batteries and
these vents will outgas. BUT, they do have a valve that prevents moisture
from getting back in...so no worries.
But the gas that comes out is hydrogen. We all know Hydrogen is flammible
but it's also very corrosive to electronics. So, if you are currently about
to change your battery because it's died....try and determine if it was
overcharged. Usually they'll be slightly bulged and you'll see some of that
white crap near the caps....
If you have this, then your vehicle load might be too much on the battery
and it's 'dipping' too much and requires lots of recharging....so, you might
want to be sure your alternator matches your load and same with the battery.


"1BADYJ" > wrote in message
oups.com...
> Just a tip for everyone that reads this: those "sealed" batteries can
> die from the same death as a normal battery. If you look at those nifty
> top pieces of the battery that says sealed, you will see where you can
> pop the 1 piece cap off and under that are normal filler ports. Just
> some distilled water to top it off and it will last longer and work
> much better. The only diff between a normal and sealed battery is a
> slightly better vent system on the sealed that seems to conserve fluid
> better. But they still get low and need topping off for max power and
> life.
>