New user is working on the bug, but having some trouble

Here's where we are, I bought the '72 Super with a 1600DP, I put on a
bugpack header and turbo muffler, removed the incorrect 30/31 PICT,
and put a very good used 34PICT-3 on in it's place. Iv'e got it
running pretty well, and it is very driveable, I can't seem to be able
to get the timing right unless I do it by ear, I have a dual vacuum
dizzy. I put the timing light on the front passenger side wire (#1 on
my vanagon I think), disconnected the vacuum hoses and pluged the carb
ports. and the notch in the pulley stays about 1 inch to the left
(advance) when it is running good. If I retard the timing enough to
get the notch in the center, the engine will die, this happens no
matter how the carb is set up. I threw the timing light out, and set
the carb and timing by ear, and I have it running pretty good and
smooth, only problem is a slight rough sounding idle, but good
throttle respone, and if you rev it, it tends to linger at high idle a
few seconds and then settle back down to normal idle. Oh and the best
way I found to tune it was to remove the vacuum retard line entirely,
and plug that port at the carb. Since this is my first bug, I would
really like to hear what seasoned experts have to say about my
mis-adventures into automotive mechanical history.

Jerry

Jeveretts wrote:
> Here's where we are, I bought the '72 Super with a 1600DP, I put on a
> bugpack header and turbo muffler, removed the incorrect 30/31 PICT,
> and put a very good used 34PICT-3 on in it's place. Iv'e got it
> running pretty well, and it is very driveable, I can't seem to be able
> to get the timing right unless I do it by ear, I have a dual vacuum
> dizzy. I put the timing light on the front passenger side wire (#1 on
> my vanagon I think), disconnected the vacuum hoses and pluged the carb
> ports. and the notch in the pulley stays about 1 inch to the left
> (advance) when it is running good. If I retard the timing enough to
> get the notch in the center, the engine will die, this happens no
> matter how the carb is set up. I threw the timing light out, and set
> the carb and timing by ear, and I have it running pretty good and
> smooth, only problem is a slight rough sounding idle, but good
> throttle respone, and if you rev it, it tends to linger at high idle a
> few seconds and then settle back down to normal idle. Oh and the best
> way I found to tune it was to remove the vacuum retard line entirely,
> and plug that port at the carb. Since this is my first bug, I would
> really like to hear what seasoned experts have to say about my
> mis-adventures into automotive mechanical history.
>
> Jerry

Both vac lines MUST be connected to set timing with strobe light.

Since you're new, strongly suggest getting the Bentley Official
Manual for '70 thru '79.


Speedy Jim
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/

On Fri, 11 Mar 2005 20:48:23 -0500, Speedy Jim > wrote:

>Jeveretts wrote:
>> Here's where we are, I bought the '72 Super with a 1600DP, I put on a
>> bugpack header and turbo muffler, removed the incorrect 30/31 PICT,
>> and put a very good used 34PICT-3 on in it's place. Iv'e got it
>> running pretty well, and it is very driveable, I can't seem to be able
>> to get the timing right unless I do it by ear, I have a dual vacuum
>> dizzy. I put the timing light on the front passenger side wire (#1 on
>> my vanagon I think), disconnected the vacuum hoses and pluged the carb
>> ports. and the notch in the pulley stays about 1 inch to the left
>> (advance) when it is running good. If I retard the timing enough to
>> get the notch in the center, the engine will die, this happens no
>> matter how the carb is set up. I threw the timing light out, and set
>> the carb and timing by ear, and I have it running pretty good and
>> smooth, only problem is a slight rough sounding idle, but good
>> throttle respone, and if you rev it, it tends to linger at high idle a
>> few seconds and then settle back down to normal idle. Oh and the best
>> way I found to tune it was to remove the vacuum retard line entirely,
>> and plug that port at the carb. Since this is my first bug, I would
>> really like to hear what seasoned experts have to say about my
>> mis-adventures into automotive mechanical history.
>>
>> Jerry
>
> Both vac lines MUST be connected to set timing with strobe light.
>
> Since you're new, strongly suggest getting the Bentley Official
> Manual for '70 thru '79.
>
>
>Speedy Jim
>http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/

OK, so, putting both vac lines on, do I set the mark to the split in
the engine case (12 oclock)?

Jeveretts wrote:
> On Fri, 11 Mar 2005 20:48:23 -0500, Speedy Jim > wrote:
>
>
>>Jeveretts wrote:
>>
>>>Here's where we are, I bought the '72 Super with a 1600DP, I put on a
>>>bugpack header and turbo muffler, removed the incorrect 30/31 PICT,
>>>and put a very good used 34PICT-3 on in it's place. Iv'e got it
>>>running pretty well, and it is very driveable, I can't seem to be able
>>>to get the timing right unless I do it by ear, I have a dual vacuum
>>>dizzy. I put the timing light on the front passenger side wire (#1 on
>>>my vanagon I think), disconnected the vacuum hoses and pluged the carb
>>>ports. and the notch in the pulley stays about 1 inch to the left
>>>(advance) when it is running good. If I retard the timing enough to
>>>get the notch in the center, the engine will die, this happens no
>>>matter how the carb is set up. I threw the timing light out, and set
>>>the carb and timing by ear, and I have it running pretty good and
>>>smooth, only problem is a slight rough sounding idle, but good
>>>throttle respone, and if you rev it, it tends to linger at high idle a
>>>few seconds and then settle back down to normal idle. Oh and the best
>>>way I found to tune it was to remove the vacuum retard line entirely,
>>>and plug that port at the carb. Since this is my first bug, I would
>>>really like to hear what seasoned experts have to say about my
>>>mis-adventures into automotive mechanical history.
>>>
>>>Jerry
>>
>> Both vac lines MUST be connected to set timing with strobe light.
>>
>> Since you're new, strongly suggest getting the Bentley Official
>> Manual for '70 thru '79.
>>
>>
>>Speedy Jim
>>http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/
>
>
> OK, so, putting both vac lines on, do I set the mark to the split in
> the engine case (12 oclock)?

Set which mark? Yes, you set it to the split in the case. The mark is
TDC and probably not your timing mark. Get a protractor.

Kevin Holzer wrote:
> Jeveretts wrote:
>
>> On Fri, 11 Mar 2005 20:48:23 -0500, Speedy Jim > wrote:
>>
>>
>>> Jeveretts wrote:
>>>
>>>> Here's where we are, I bought the '72 Super with a 1600DP, I put on a
>>>> bugpack header and turbo muffler, removed the incorrect 30/31 PICT,
>>>> and put a very good used 34PICT-3 on in it's place. Iv'e got it
>>>> running pretty well, and it is very driveable, I can't seem to be able
>>>> to get the timing right unless I do it by ear, I have a dual vacuum
>>>> dizzy. I put the timing light on the front passenger side wire (#1 on
>>>> my vanagon I think), disconnected the vacuum hoses and pluged the carb
>>>> ports. and the notch in the pulley stays about 1 inch to the left
>>>> (advance) when it is running good. If I retard the timing enough to
>>>> get the notch in the center, the engine will die, this happens no
>>>> matter how the carb is set up. I threw the timing light out, and set
>>>> the carb and timing by ear, and I have it running pretty good and
>>>> smooth, only problem is a slight rough sounding idle, but good
>>>> throttle respone, and if you rev it, it tends to linger at high idle a
>>>> few seconds and then settle back down to normal idle. Oh and the best
>>>> way I found to tune it was to remove the vacuum retard line entirely,
>>>> and plug that port at the carb. Since this is my first bug, I would
>>>> really like to hear what seasoned experts have to say about my
>>>> mis-adventures into automotive mechanical history.
>>>>
>>>> Jerry
>>>
>>>
>>> Both vac lines MUST be connected to set timing with strobe light.
>>>
>>> Since you're new, strongly suggest getting the Bentley Official
>>> Manual for '70 thru '79.
>>>
>>>
>>> Speedy Jim
>>> http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/
>>
>>
>>
>> OK, so, putting both vac lines on, do I set the mark to the split in
>> the engine case (12 oclock)?
>
>
> Set which mark? Yes, you set it to the split in the case. The mark is
> TDC and probably not your timing mark. Get a protractor.

Kevin has a fair point. *Some* pulleys (not all) have a TDC "dimple"
on the side facing you. The "timing mark" is a notch on the pulley
side facing forward.

But you can't count on it. There were so many pulleys used on VW's
and all with different marks. Best to verify TDC (pencil in the
spark plug hole, or other trick) and protract off the req'd degrees.

Speedy Jim
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/

On 3/12/2005 6:09 AM Speedy Jim wrote:

> Kevin Holzer wrote:
>
>> Jeveretts wrote:
>>
>>> On Fri, 11 Mar 2005 20:48:23 -0500, Speedy Jim > wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>> Jeveretts wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Here's where we are, I bought the '72 Super with a 1600DP, I put on a
>>>>> bugpack header and turbo muffler, removed the incorrect 30/31 PICT,
>>>>> and put a very good used 34PICT-3 on in it's place. Iv'e got it
>>>>> running pretty well, and it is very driveable, I can't seem to be able
>>>>> to get the timing right unless I do it by ear, I have a dual vacuum
>>>>> dizzy. I put the timing light on the front passenger side wire (#1 on
>>>>> my vanagon I think), disconnected the vacuum hoses and pluged the carb
>>>>> ports. and the notch in the pulley stays about 1 inch to the left
>>>>> (advance) when it is running good. If I retard the timing enough to
>>>>> get the notch in the center, the engine will die, this happens no
>>>>> matter how the carb is set up. I threw the timing light out, and set
>>>>> the carb and timing by ear, and I have it running pretty good and
>>>>> smooth, only problem is a slight rough sounding idle, but good
>>>>> throttle respone, and if you rev it, it tends to linger at high idle a
>>>>> few seconds and then settle back down to normal idle. Oh and the best
>>>>> way I found to tune it was to remove the vacuum retard line entirely,
>>>>> and plug that port at the carb. Since this is my first bug, I would
>>>>> really like to hear what seasoned experts have to say about my
>>>>> mis-adventures into automotive mechanical history.
>>>>>
>>>>> Jerry
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Both vac lines MUST be connected to set timing with strobe light.
>>>>
>>>> Since you're new, strongly suggest getting the Bentley Official
>>>> Manual for '70 thru '79.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Speedy Jim
>>>> http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> OK, so, putting both vac lines on, do I set the mark to the split in
>>> the engine case (12 oclock)?
>>
>>
>>
>> Set which mark? Yes, you set it to the split in the case. The mark
>> is TDC and probably not your timing mark. Get a protractor.
>
>
> Kevin has a fair point. *Some* pulleys (not all) have a TDC "dimple"
> on the side facing you. The "timing mark" is a notch on the pulley
> side facing forward.
>
> But you can't count on it. There were so many pulleys used on VW's
> and all with different marks. Best to verify TDC (pencil in the
> spark plug hole, or other trick) and protract off the req'd degrees.

Um, just to help this fellow not to make the same boneheaded mistake /I/
made (and for which I was briefly famous hereabouts): don't use a pencil
-- they can snap off in the cylinder. Don't ask me how I know: search
the archives. Use some difficult-to-break rod-shaped thingy like a
plastic drinking straw; don't use a screwdriver or anything that can
gouge the top of the piston.

--
--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR

On Sat, 12 Mar 2005 12:53:02 -0600, Michael Cecil
> wrote:

>On Sat, 12 Mar 2005 09:22:09 -0800, "Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott"
> wrote:
>
>>Um, just to help this fellow not to make the same boneheaded mistake /I/
>>made (and for which I was briefly famous hereabouts): don't use a pencil
>>-- they can snap off in the cylinder. Don't ask me how I know: search
>>the archives. Use some difficult-to-break rod-shaped thingy like a
>>plastic drinking straw; don't use a screwdriver or anything that can
>>gouge the top of the piston.
>
>How about a length of the fiberglass rod they use to mount safety flags on
>kid's bicycles?

Well... I got it running like a new car, went to my local old
excessivly hairy German parts guy, bought a 009, put it in, took the
pict34 off and riveted the hole in the throttle plate, put it back on,
set the timing to 'around' 7-8 degrees to the left of tdc, adjusted
the carb via instructions on the internet, and it idles like a new
car, had a bit of hesitation at low RMP, fattened up the mixture screw
a bit and voila! nice running bug!

Thanks
Jerry