$3500 engine in '95 SW2, worth it?

> wrote in message
ups.com...
> >From what I understand, it is a typical Twincam -- oil burning since
> 50k miles, and it ran down below the dipstick a couple times. Timing
> chain (touted as a reliability feature, remember?) skipped a tooth. Car
> now fails compression test.
>
> Ah, decisions, decisions. I am not delighted with the idea of buying a
> used car, as I am just not a good enough mechanic to judge if the car
> has been flood damaged, totalled, etc.
>

From the previous posts I thought you had a really serious problem but based
on what you said above would suggest you consider.

1-Buy a manual. Chilton's is thicker than Haynes but both are cheap and
often one will have a better illustration while the other has a better text.
Neither is perfect but both are a fraction of the factory manual cost.

2-Pull the head and remove the oil pan and pull the pistons and oil pump.
Have a good automotive machine shop check the pump, pistons and the rods for
cracks or bending or excessive wear. Have the head checked for cracks .

3-Check the cylinders for wear and (fine) hone lightly to remove the glaze
and establish a nice crosshatch to assist in engine break-in and oil
control. Make sure to wash ALL the grit from honing from the internal
engine thoroughly. Clean (or probably replace) the chain adjuster and oil
passages.

4-Assess and price your options

5-Have your head rebuilt by a quality automotive machine shop, make sure
they give you a firm quote after inspection and before rebuilding and
compare with cost of new head. I do not favour exchange units as the
exchange may not be as good as yours and many rebuilders will deny core
credit after they see your head. Only go exchange if you are guaranteed
that your core is acceptable before you take the exchange

6-assemble engine using new rings and bearings and a new timing chain and
tensioner. Congratulations you have just performed an inframe engine
overhaul which will be a LOT cheaper than $3500.

I have no idea how the clutch has been used so this still may mean you need
to pull the motor or tranny to replace the clutch a some time and many would
suggest that now would be a good time to bite the bullet and pull the engine
to install a new clutch and so the machine shop can do a complete engine
overhaul including new oversize pistons (more $). Whether this is the best
route will depend on what you discover when you look inside after the head
is off.

If you look inside and find that the engine is uneconomic to repair you
still have the option of purchasing a good running vehicle (91-95) with the
same tranny type and using one as a parts car for the other (you do need a
place to store the unused car). A complete running car with mounted tires
and fair battery (and hopefully a good windshield) may be a lot cheaper than
the cost of a new engine or complete rebuild. The first rule of mechanics
is that nothing you have a spare part for ever fails. It would be best if
you were not in a hurry, as the smell of desperation always raises the price
of everything. (But then I suspect that being in a hurry is how you got
here!)

In any case no matter what you do, modify your operating style so you NEVER
let the oil get below 1/2 on the stick. The time you saved by failing to
properly monitor and replace your oil is probably the cause of most of your
problem and you have now lost far more time than you ever saved and are
going to lose a LOT more before this is done. I my business WE CHECK THE
OIL AND COOLANT LEVEL IN EVERY ENGINE BEFORE EACH DAILY STARTUP, and often
after lunch. It is simple, easy, free and I have never seen a dipstick worn
out from over use.

Good luck.