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#11
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Caroline wrote:
> I haven't seen reports of brake hoses plugging with debris. sometimes they just collapse on the inside. the outside might have a plastic coating so you dont know. pretty rare, though. > > I have a manual transmission and almost always downshift, using the engine to > brake, though, so brake problems will be less obvious unless I go looking for > them. different strokes id rather replace 5 sets of front brake pads than 1 clutch. FWIW, sometimes i "blip" the throttle and slip it into neutral and coast to a stop. and if i wanna mess with someone who i think might be a bit too close, ill use the parking brake |
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#12
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Abeness wrote:
> Blast! I just wrote a whole message but Thunderbird ate it. First time > that's happened. Will try to reconstruct > > TeGGer® wrote: > > On the back you have drums. > > Actually, discs. Civic EX with ABS. > >> Those AREN'T "OEM". They are aftermarket "OEM style". Roll of the dice >> here for you. > > > Just finished reading your FAQ--fabulous. Thanks for taking the time and > care to put that together. > > You mention "too many problems" with aftermarket pads. Such as? I don't ive never had a "problem" per se, with aftermarket. maybe a little more noise or dust, but nothing i cant live with. > care one way or the other, the Bendix cost about the same as OEM. (BTW, > I know they aren't actually OEM, that's why I stuck it in quotes.) On > nice thing was that the shim was made out of aluminum--no rust issue > there, though I do wonder if there could be a disintegration issue. They > do come with a "lifetime" warranty, whatever that means fo brake pads, > so I guess the aluminum shims work out fine. as long as you can take the worn out pads back and get a new set from the same place, its all good. > > I'm particularly intrigued by the pins question. It seems to me from my > recollection that the lower pin was frozen, but I didn't fully > appreciate the problem until seeing your FAQ. The upper was fine, nice > and greasy and smooth, and I didn't see any rust. > > Given that a reman caliper, which I just found after calling Majestic, > is only $72 (well, a bit more after shipping back the old one to recover > the whopping $140 core deposit), it doesn't make sense for me to rebuild > it if the piston is in fact seized. I didn't have a C-clamp handy > because I had thought there were screw-type pistons all around. As I've > said, I'm new to this level of auto work. nah- screw type in the rear. get a large c-clamp from a place like harbor freight and try it. you might not really have a stuck caliper at all. who knows? > > Thanks again for the great brake FAQ. |
#13
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Abeness wrote:
> Blast! I just wrote a whole message but Thunderbird ate it. First time > that's happened. Will try to reconstruct > > TeGGer® wrote: > > On the back you have drums. > > Actually, discs. Civic EX with ABS. > >> Those AREN'T "OEM". They are aftermarket "OEM style". Roll of the dice >> here for you. > > > Just finished reading your FAQ--fabulous. Thanks for taking the time and > care to put that together. > > You mention "too many problems" with aftermarket pads. Such as? I don't ive never had a "problem" per se, with aftermarket. maybe a little more noise or dust, but nothing i cant live with. > care one way or the other, the Bendix cost about the same as OEM. (BTW, > I know they aren't actually OEM, that's why I stuck it in quotes.) On > nice thing was that the shim was made out of aluminum--no rust issue > there, though I do wonder if there could be a disintegration issue. They > do come with a "lifetime" warranty, whatever that means fo brake pads, > so I guess the aluminum shims work out fine. as long as you can take the worn out pads back and get a new set from the same place, its all good. > > I'm particularly intrigued by the pins question. It seems to me from my > recollection that the lower pin was frozen, but I didn't fully > appreciate the problem until seeing your FAQ. The upper was fine, nice > and greasy and smooth, and I didn't see any rust. > > Given that a reman caliper, which I just found after calling Majestic, > is only $72 (well, a bit more after shipping back the old one to recover > the whopping $140 core deposit), it doesn't make sense for me to rebuild > it if the piston is in fact seized. I didn't have a C-clamp handy > because I had thought there were screw-type pistons all around. As I've > said, I'm new to this level of auto work. nah- screw type in the rear. get a large c-clamp from a place like harbor freight and try it. you might not really have a stuck caliper at all. who knows? > > Thanks again for the great brake FAQ. |
#14
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"SoCalMike" > wrote
> Caroline wrote: > > I have a manual transmission and almost always downshift, using the engine to > > brake, though, so brake problems will be less obvious unless I go looking for > > them. > > different strokes > > id rather replace 5 sets of front brake pads than 1 clutch. If you have an authoritative web citation on how much the clutch parts wear due to engine braking, I'd love to see it. At 159k miles with the original clutch on my 91 Civic, and no signs of clutch failure, I'm not inclined to change my braking style. I did a quick Google and some folks say the wear on the clutch is insignificant. Others say as you do. |
#15
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"SoCalMike" > wrote
> Caroline wrote: > > I have a manual transmission and almost always downshift, using the engine to > > brake, though, so brake problems will be less obvious unless I go looking for > > them. > > different strokes > > id rather replace 5 sets of front brake pads than 1 clutch. If you have an authoritative web citation on how much the clutch parts wear due to engine braking, I'd love to see it. At 159k miles with the original clutch on my 91 Civic, and no signs of clutch failure, I'm not inclined to change my braking style. I did a quick Google and some folks say the wear on the clutch is insignificant. Others say as you do. |
#16
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TeGGer® wrote:
> "Caroline" > sprach im > . net: > > > >>Brake pistons do freeze in their cylinders, though. I completely >>disassembled my front brakes this past summer. As you can imagine, it >>doesn't take but a little rust buildup on the piston/cylinder walls to >>impede operation. > > > > > I find it's more often gum than rust that sticks up the pistons. Rust tends > to invade from the outside, weather being the source. Rust sticks at first, > but rapidly becomes a fluid leak. if the seal is running on a corroded surface. where you have a steel piston & an aluminum cylinder [like the master cylinder assembly], the seal is static on the steel, and slides on the non-corroding alloy surface. in this situation, there is little or no wear acceleration above what would happen normally. the exception is where corrosion is chronic on a system that has not moved /and/ has badly contaminated [wet] brake fluid. then you get electrolytic reactions between the steel piston & alloy cylinder & severe pitting, but even then, due to cunning design, the main compression seals are ahead of the pitting area as the pistons are behind them. the exception is the wiper seal at the rear, and if that leaks, it's a pita, but it's not as serious as a main compression seals. for front [honda] slave cylinders, you have a very hard smooth well sealing surface for the seals to slide on, the chrome. as long as the chrome remains intact, again, wear is insignificant. chromed pistons can corrode, but that is lessened considerably by regularly changing brake fluid and doing the silicone trick you describe below. > > Honda, unlike Toyota, uses non-stainless steel pistons. Toyota's are > stainless. the stainless/non-stainless argument has factors in favor for each. stainless can still corrode. depends on environment & grade. most stainless still pits badly in salt. honda [nissin, etc.] pistons are chrome plated forged steel. this is a very high quality base material/fabrication route. chrome plating is also many times more wear resistant than most stainless steels. there's also the potential for a fatigue advantage - stainless has no fatigue endurance limit, a lot of non-stainless [ferritic] steels do. finally, the smooth surface of the chrome is pretty much as good as it gets for fluid seal quality & long life - as long as it remains intact. as above, the single easiest way to prevent corrosion on a chrome steel piston is to make sure the brake fluid is changed regularly. > Wish Honda would do that too. With Toyota you just clean the gum > off and put it back. With Honda you end up replacing the piston, and it's > not cheap. > > One problem with reman calipers is that nobody seems to use silicone grease > on the piston and seals when putting it all back together. They all use > brake fluid as a lubricant because it's cheaper. Silicone grease helps > prevent the buildup of gum and keeps the pistons moving freely for much > longer. Brake fluid dries out and BECOMES gum. the silicone grease is very important. but brake fluid is cited for the inner seals because it contains rubber preservatives. left to its own devices, the rubber would become hard & crack over time. my personal view is to lightly silicone lube the piston on assembly, then ensure the boot has sufficient silicone to make the seals air/water tight from the outside. > > If the caliper is not yet installed, you can just pop the piston out of the > new calipers with some air pressure (even with a bicycle pump with some > electrical tape wrapped around the end to seal it), smear it with some > silicone and reinstall. Observe surgical cleanliness here, by the way, > that's crucial. > > If it's already installed, it's a bit more complex: > > You can get around this with the judicious use of a syringe from a > woodworking supply store <http://tinyurl.com/6z9j2>, and some silicone > grease. > http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/rustybrakes/syringe.jpg > > What you do is to have a helper step on the pedal as necessary to push the > piston out of its bore most of the way, so the dust boot is mostly > extended. One full pedal push will move the piston about 1/16". > > NOTE: ONLY do this if you've been regularly using the pedal-push method of > brake bleeding, or put a block of wood under the pedal so it can't go any > farther than what it does in normal driving! don't agree about the block - see above. both you & curly regularly repeat that advice. i don't doubt the sincerity of your intent, but it's bad advice in any situation requiring brake bleeding. i can see that it's possible to get away with it on hondas because they bleed quite easily, but other vehicles can be sob's and the /only/ way to bleed them reliably is to use full pedal travel to expell all air. otherwise the air simply compresses & expands within the cylinder again the moment the pedal is released. if the cylinder is corroded enough for this to be a concern in the first place - it should be replaced anyway. pitting can be a fatigue nucleator. i've never seen it happen, but theoretically, a cylinder could burst if a fatigue crack propagated. i appreciate the concern about scoring seals & causing leaks, and on low grade detroit iron, that has some validity, but in high quality honda systems, corrosion sufficient to be a concern is rare. any "coincidence" about leakage following any brake bleed proceedure is much more likely to be caused by fresh brake fluid interacting with contaminated old seals. > > Use Brakleen or other aerosol brake cleaning solvent to remove the dirt > from the piston and boot first. > > Then you ease the syringe under the boot and inject silicone as close to > the hydraulic seal as possible all around the perimeter of the piston. Turn > the piston with a set of channel-locks so you can more easily apply > silicone to the portion that was closest to the top of the caliper. Now > push the piston back in all the way with a C-clamp. Pedal-pump it back out > again and repeat a few times. much better to disassemble and clean the whole workings. all pressing the piston back in does is ensure the goop gets forced up past the seals contaminating the fluid & getting stuck in the cylinder/piston gap where it can cause wear & further corrosion. /if/ pushing the piston back, it's also prudent to open the bleed nipple first. avoids pushing contaminated fluid back up into the master cylinder. > > When you're done, if the siliconing has been done properly, you should see > the piston move out with a pedal push, but then move back IN again slightly > when the pedal is released. > > The grease is just silicone dielectric grease. I use Zip-Slip just because > for me it was easy to get. http://www.themoldersedge.com/polish.htm > > Here's another example: > http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/8462.html thanks for the links! like your applicator! > > Googling for > silicone dielectric grease > turns up many more. > > |
#17
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TeGGer® wrote:
> "Caroline" > sprach im > . net: > > > >>Brake pistons do freeze in their cylinders, though. I completely >>disassembled my front brakes this past summer. As you can imagine, it >>doesn't take but a little rust buildup on the piston/cylinder walls to >>impede operation. > > > > > I find it's more often gum than rust that sticks up the pistons. Rust tends > to invade from the outside, weather being the source. Rust sticks at first, > but rapidly becomes a fluid leak. if the seal is running on a corroded surface. where you have a steel piston & an aluminum cylinder [like the master cylinder assembly], the seal is static on the steel, and slides on the non-corroding alloy surface. in this situation, there is little or no wear acceleration above what would happen normally. the exception is where corrosion is chronic on a system that has not moved /and/ has badly contaminated [wet] brake fluid. then you get electrolytic reactions between the steel piston & alloy cylinder & severe pitting, but even then, due to cunning design, the main compression seals are ahead of the pitting area as the pistons are behind them. the exception is the wiper seal at the rear, and if that leaks, it's a pita, but it's not as serious as a main compression seals. for front [honda] slave cylinders, you have a very hard smooth well sealing surface for the seals to slide on, the chrome. as long as the chrome remains intact, again, wear is insignificant. chromed pistons can corrode, but that is lessened considerably by regularly changing brake fluid and doing the silicone trick you describe below. > > Honda, unlike Toyota, uses non-stainless steel pistons. Toyota's are > stainless. the stainless/non-stainless argument has factors in favor for each. stainless can still corrode. depends on environment & grade. most stainless still pits badly in salt. honda [nissin, etc.] pistons are chrome plated forged steel. this is a very high quality base material/fabrication route. chrome plating is also many times more wear resistant than most stainless steels. there's also the potential for a fatigue advantage - stainless has no fatigue endurance limit, a lot of non-stainless [ferritic] steels do. finally, the smooth surface of the chrome is pretty much as good as it gets for fluid seal quality & long life - as long as it remains intact. as above, the single easiest way to prevent corrosion on a chrome steel piston is to make sure the brake fluid is changed regularly. > Wish Honda would do that too. With Toyota you just clean the gum > off and put it back. With Honda you end up replacing the piston, and it's > not cheap. > > One problem with reman calipers is that nobody seems to use silicone grease > on the piston and seals when putting it all back together. They all use > brake fluid as a lubricant because it's cheaper. Silicone grease helps > prevent the buildup of gum and keeps the pistons moving freely for much > longer. Brake fluid dries out and BECOMES gum. the silicone grease is very important. but brake fluid is cited for the inner seals because it contains rubber preservatives. left to its own devices, the rubber would become hard & crack over time. my personal view is to lightly silicone lube the piston on assembly, then ensure the boot has sufficient silicone to make the seals air/water tight from the outside. > > If the caliper is not yet installed, you can just pop the piston out of the > new calipers with some air pressure (even with a bicycle pump with some > electrical tape wrapped around the end to seal it), smear it with some > silicone and reinstall. Observe surgical cleanliness here, by the way, > that's crucial. > > If it's already installed, it's a bit more complex: > > You can get around this with the judicious use of a syringe from a > woodworking supply store <http://tinyurl.com/6z9j2>, and some silicone > grease. > http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/rustybrakes/syringe.jpg > > What you do is to have a helper step on the pedal as necessary to push the > piston out of its bore most of the way, so the dust boot is mostly > extended. One full pedal push will move the piston about 1/16". > > NOTE: ONLY do this if you've been regularly using the pedal-push method of > brake bleeding, or put a block of wood under the pedal so it can't go any > farther than what it does in normal driving! don't agree about the block - see above. both you & curly regularly repeat that advice. i don't doubt the sincerity of your intent, but it's bad advice in any situation requiring brake bleeding. i can see that it's possible to get away with it on hondas because they bleed quite easily, but other vehicles can be sob's and the /only/ way to bleed them reliably is to use full pedal travel to expell all air. otherwise the air simply compresses & expands within the cylinder again the moment the pedal is released. if the cylinder is corroded enough for this to be a concern in the first place - it should be replaced anyway. pitting can be a fatigue nucleator. i've never seen it happen, but theoretically, a cylinder could burst if a fatigue crack propagated. i appreciate the concern about scoring seals & causing leaks, and on low grade detroit iron, that has some validity, but in high quality honda systems, corrosion sufficient to be a concern is rare. any "coincidence" about leakage following any brake bleed proceedure is much more likely to be caused by fresh brake fluid interacting with contaminated old seals. > > Use Brakleen or other aerosol brake cleaning solvent to remove the dirt > from the piston and boot first. > > Then you ease the syringe under the boot and inject silicone as close to > the hydraulic seal as possible all around the perimeter of the piston. Turn > the piston with a set of channel-locks so you can more easily apply > silicone to the portion that was closest to the top of the caliper. Now > push the piston back in all the way with a C-clamp. Pedal-pump it back out > again and repeat a few times. much better to disassemble and clean the whole workings. all pressing the piston back in does is ensure the goop gets forced up past the seals contaminating the fluid & getting stuck in the cylinder/piston gap where it can cause wear & further corrosion. /if/ pushing the piston back, it's also prudent to open the bleed nipple first. avoids pushing contaminated fluid back up into the master cylinder. > > When you're done, if the siliconing has been done properly, you should see > the piston move out with a pedal push, but then move back IN again slightly > when the pedal is released. > > The grease is just silicone dielectric grease. I use Zip-Slip just because > for me it was easy to get. http://www.themoldersedge.com/polish.htm > > Here's another example: > http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/8462.html thanks for the links! like your applicator! > > Googling for > silicone dielectric grease > turns up many more. > > |
#18
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TeGGer® wrote:
> jim beam > sprach im > : > > >>TeGGer® wrote: > > >>>What you do is to have a helper step on the pedal as necessary to >>>push the piston out of its bore most of the way, so the dust boot is >>>mostly extended. One full pedal push will move the piston about >>>1/16". >>> >>>NOTE: ONLY do this if you've been regularly using the pedal-push >>>method of brake bleeding, or put a block of wood under the pedal so >>>it can't go any farther than what it does in normal driving! >> >>don't agree about the block - see above. both you & curly regularly >>repeat that advice. i don't doubt the sincerity of your intent, but >>it's bad advice in any situation requiring brake bleeding. > > > > > If you re-read my paragraph above, you'll see I was recommending the block > of wood under the pedal for the purposes of pushing the piston out so you > can inject silicone grease under the dust boot. I did not mention bleeding. > > If the brakes have been neglected, full pedal pushes are distressingly > likely to wreck the master cylinder seals. don't get me wrong tegger, i'm not criticizing you - just pointing out stuff i've learned. you can see the same wear features appearing in working non-leaking parts that have seen a few years service as you do with stuff that's known to be defective. the only difference is the degree of wear. rubber seals that have not oxidized or de-polymerized are very resilient. if you're talking some junky old piece of iron that's of the kind that can host corrosion all the way down the master cylinder, you're right, seals can see accelerated wear. but that cylinder's not long for this world anyway because the seals are probably degrading chemically as well as wearing physically. check the difference in physical properties of a new seal and one that's old, crusty & known to leak. the new ones are flexible, tough & don't retain marks in the surface if you press with your fingernail. old ones are either soft like a gummy bear if they've been contaminated with oil, or hard like some old paint from the bottom of a dried out can if they've oxidized. both retain marks from the fingernail test because the material's surface has degraded. bottom line is that if the component can't function to spec, and that includes the ability to use the full length of the cylinder in the event of brake line outage or something, then it should be serviced or replaced. |
#19
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TeGGer® wrote:
> jim beam > sprach im > : > > >>TeGGer® wrote: > > >>>What you do is to have a helper step on the pedal as necessary to >>>push the piston out of its bore most of the way, so the dust boot is >>>mostly extended. One full pedal push will move the piston about >>>1/16". >>> >>>NOTE: ONLY do this if you've been regularly using the pedal-push >>>method of brake bleeding, or put a block of wood under the pedal so >>>it can't go any farther than what it does in normal driving! >> >>don't agree about the block - see above. both you & curly regularly >>repeat that advice. i don't doubt the sincerity of your intent, but >>it's bad advice in any situation requiring brake bleeding. > > > > > If you re-read my paragraph above, you'll see I was recommending the block > of wood under the pedal for the purposes of pushing the piston out so you > can inject silicone grease under the dust boot. I did not mention bleeding. > > If the brakes have been neglected, full pedal pushes are distressingly > likely to wreck the master cylinder seals. don't get me wrong tegger, i'm not criticizing you - just pointing out stuff i've learned. you can see the same wear features appearing in working non-leaking parts that have seen a few years service as you do with stuff that's known to be defective. the only difference is the degree of wear. rubber seals that have not oxidized or de-polymerized are very resilient. if you're talking some junky old piece of iron that's of the kind that can host corrosion all the way down the master cylinder, you're right, seals can see accelerated wear. but that cylinder's not long for this world anyway because the seals are probably degrading chemically as well as wearing physically. check the difference in physical properties of a new seal and one that's old, crusty & known to leak. the new ones are flexible, tough & don't retain marks in the surface if you press with your fingernail. old ones are either soft like a gummy bear if they've been contaminated with oil, or hard like some old paint from the bottom of a dried out can if they've oxidized. both retain marks from the fingernail test because the material's surface has degraded. bottom line is that if the component can't function to spec, and that includes the ability to use the full length of the cylinder in the event of brake line outage or something, then it should be serviced or replaced. |
#20
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SoCalMike wrote:
> ive never had a "problem" per se, with aftermarket. maybe a little more > noise or dust, but nothing i cant live with. OK, thanks for the info. > as long as you can take the worn out pads back and get a new set from > the same place, its all good. Seems crazy to me. I mean, aren't they designed to wear out? Must refer to faulty materials, not regular wear, but I'll read the fine print. > nah- screw type in the rear. get a large c-clamp from a place like > harbor freight and try it. > > you might not really have a stuck caliper at all. who knows? That's what I'm hoping. Will try on Tue and hope for the best. |
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