XJ floorboard holes

As I mentioned in a previous post, I have a couple of holes to repair
in the passenger side floorboard of my XJ... What is the best way to
repair this?

1. Weld replacement sheet metal over the holes.
2. Rivet replacement sheet metal over the holes and fiberglass around
the edges so that it will be air tight.
3. Forget about metal and just fiberglass the holes.

The larger hole is over the muffler, so I'm not sure if the
fiberglass-only method would withstand the heat...

"Grumman-581" > wrote in message
...
> As I mentioned in a previous post, I have a couple of holes to repair
> in the passenger side floorboard of my XJ... What is the best way to
> repair this?
>
> 1. Weld replacement sheet metal over the holes.
> 2. Rivet replacement sheet metal over the holes and fiberglass around
> the edges so that it will be air tight.
> 3. Forget about metal and just fiberglass the holes.
>
> The larger hole is over the muffler, so I'm not sure if the
> fiberglass-only method would withstand the heat...

Fiberglass is rigid and will separate from the metal, holding water against
the metal, and then you will have a worse situation than you have now.

Welding is best. Pop-rivets may be acceptable, depending on the nature of
the holes and skill of repair. Forget about fiberglass and get some seam
sealer from a body shop supply. Acceptable replacements are available at
Home Depot. Urethane in a tube is great.

Earle

Grumman-581 wrote:
> As I mentioned in a previous post, I have a couple of holes to repair
> in the passenger side floorboard of my XJ... What is the best way to
> repair this?
>
> 1. Weld replacement sheet metal over the holes.
> 2. Rivet replacement sheet metal over the holes and fiberglass around
> the edges so that it will be air tight.
> 3. Forget about metal and just fiberglass the holes.
>
> The larger hole is over the muffler, so I'm not sure if the
> fiberglass-only method would withstand the heat...

To be perfectly candid, all of those repair suggestions are kinda
half-assed and will cause you problems down the road. It depends on the
value of the truck and what you want to spend in time and money. The
ONLY way to get rid of rust is to cut out the rusty floorboards and spot
weld in new panels. Any sort of patch job is guaranteed to rust again.

tw

--
PLEASE REMOVE THE "OBVIOUS" TO REPLY.

http://www.billhughes.com/snowXJ/ Spot weld the plates in, it doesn't
take much to shrink to the point where the door won't close.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
http://www.billhughes.com/


"Grumman-581" > wrote in message
...
> As I mentioned in a previous post, I have a couple of holes to repair
> in the passenger side floorboard of my XJ... What is the best way to
> repair this?
>
> 1. Weld replacement sheet metal over the holes.
> 2. Rivet replacement sheet metal over the holes and fiberglass around
> the edges so that it will be air tight.
> 3. Forget about metal and just fiberglass the holes.
>
> The larger hole is over the muffler, so I'm not sure if the
> fiberglass-only method would withstand the heat...



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

be carefull since the floor metal is attached to the frame rails and that
is what makes it survive a crash so include reinfocing that alongwith the
holes

Grumman-581 wrote:

> As I mentioned in a previous post, I have a couple of holes to repair
> in the passenger side floorboard of my XJ... What is the best way to
> repair this?
>
> 1. Weld replacement sheet metal over the holes.
> 2. Rivet replacement sheet metal over the holes and fiberglass around
> the edges so that it will be air tight.
> 3. Forget about metal and just fiberglass the holes.
>
> The larger hole is over the muffler, so I'm not sure if the
> fiberglass-only method would withstand the heat...

just did mine a few years ago.
Be carefull as you clean/ grind the areas mine was a disaster!!!!!!!!!! More
rust than first thought!!
Get 20G steel from local sheet metal place, rent , borrow, or (this is a
good excuse for a MIG welder purchase, how I justified mine to my wife).
Make cardboard templates and then cut the sheet metal and fit into place and
spot weld in best you can (tough to weld all of the area but possible). Get
some SEAM SEALER and go over welds and seams top and bottom. Get some POR15
and brush on top and bottom after sealer dries and good to go.
For some reason the passenger rust out bad compared to driver with moisture
still present, check tube that extends from door to body with the wires in
it and make sure no water gets in behind cowl.
Good time to remove all the carpet and padding and give a good cleaning.
Watch out if using cutting wheel and or grinding that the sparks damage roof
liner and or any glass like the windshield doors etc...

Good luck about 3 beers *** skill level..


"philthy" > wrote in message
...
> be carefull since the floor metal is attached to the frame rails and that
> is what makes it survive a crash so include reinfocing that alongwith the
> holes
>
> Grumman-581 wrote:
>
>> As I mentioned in a previous post, I have a couple of holes to repair
>> in the passenger side floorboard of my XJ... What is the best way to
>> repair this?
>>
>> 1. Weld replacement sheet metal over the holes.
>> 2. Rivet replacement sheet metal over the holes and fiberglass around
>> the edges so that it will be air tight.
>> 3. Forget about metal and just fiberglass the holes.
>>
>> The larger hole is over the muffler, so I'm not sure if the
>> fiberglass-only method would withstand the heat...
>

On Sun, 3 Jun 2007 17:15:10 -0400, "TF" >
wrote:

> Get 20G steel from local sheet metal place

Thanks for the info... My *next* question was going to be concerning
the appropriate gauge sheet metal to use... I was at a commercial
construction site today and they were doing the interior walls with
the sheet metal 2x6s... They were cutting off pieces from 4-6 ft in
length and throwing them in the dumpster... Seemed about the right
thickness, so I picked up a couple of them... At the very least, it
will give me plenty of metal to practice on before I go burning holes
in the floor pan of my XJ...

> Good luck about 3 beers *** skill level..

That 3 beers per hour, right?

Grumman-581 wrote:
>... At the very least, it
> will give me plenty of metal to practice on before I go burning holes
> in the floor pan of my XJ...

I'd be picking up all the scrap they have to offer just for that reason
alone. Throwing a good weld is all in the practice. especially with gas
where you can blow through thin metal. Thankfully MIGs are more forgiving.

Of course now you will need a good plasma cutter.

--
DougW

damn...forgot about the plasma cutter..than again I wanted tig too but
settled for gas option with the mig...
live and learn next project!
"DougW" > wrote in message
...
> Grumman-581 wrote:
>>... At the very least, it
>> will give me plenty of metal to practice on before I go burning holes
>> in the floor pan of my XJ...
>
> I'd be picking up all the scrap they have to offer just for that reason
> alone. Throwing a good weld is all in the practice. especially with gas
> where you can blow through thin metal. Thankfully MIGs are more
> forgiving.
>
> Of course now you will need a good plasma cutter.
>
> --
> DougW
>

On Jun 4, 4:02 am, Grumman-581 >
wrote:
> On Sun, 3 Jun 2007 17:15:10 -0400, "TF" >
> wrote:
>
> > Get 20G steel from local sheet metal place
>
> Thanks for the info... My *next* question was going to be concerning
> the appropriate gauge sheet metal to use... I was at a commercial
> construction site today and they were doing the interior walls with
> the sheet metal 2x6s... They were cutting off pieces from 4-6 ft in
> length and throwing them in the dumpster... Seemed about the right
> thickness, so I picked up a couple of them... At the very least, it
> will give me plenty of metal to practice on before I go burning holes
> in the floor pan of my XJ...
>
> > Good luck about 3 beers *** skill level..
>
> That 3 beers per hour, right?

I may be wrong but I think those steel 2X6s are galvanized. If you
are going to use
them for welding make sure you have reallly good ventilation. Don't
want to poision
yourself!

John C.