Factory-recommended tire pressures - CRX?

Anyone happen to have the factory-recommended tire pressures for a 90
CRX Si? The usual sticker on the door isn't present on my car, and I
don't have an owner's manual - been looking for one on eBay lately, but
all I've seen so far are ones for just about every year except the 90.

30-32 psi has always felt right, and I'm curious as to how close to
factory specs this is.

Dave

Dave Garrett > wrote in news:MPG.2014bca3eb1438c398a147
@207.14.116.130:

> Anyone happen to have the factory-recommended tire pressures for a 90
> CRX Si? The usual sticker on the door isn't present on my car



Your sticker is on one of the inside walls of the glove box.



>, and I
> don't have an owner's manual - been looking for one on eBay lately, but
> all I've seen so far are ones for just about every year except the 90.
>
> 30-32 psi has always felt right, and I'm curious as to how close to
> factory specs this is.
>



Not very. Your Si should be inflated to 28 front and rear.

You can get your Owner's Manual he
https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/logon.asp
Choose "Owner's Manuals" from the menu at left, then navigate to your car.
No login required.

You can download and save the entire manual, but there's a bit of a trick
to it.


--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

In article >,
says...
> Dave Garrett > wrote in news:MPG.2014bca3eb1438c398a147
> @207.14.116.130:

> > Anyone happen to have the factory-recommended tire pressures for a 90
> > CRX Si? The usual sticker on the door isn't present on my car
>
>
>
> Your sticker is on one of the inside walls of the glove box.

So it is. Color me embarrassed - I'd forgotten about that, probably
because it's on the side that's not visible from the driver's seat, and
I can't remember the last time I was in the passenger seat.

> > 30-32 psi has always felt right, and I'm curious as to how close to
> > factory specs this is.
>
> Not very. Your Si should be inflated to 28 front and rear.
>
> You can get your Owner's Manual he
> https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/logon.asp
> Choose "Owner's Manuals" from the menu at left, then navigate to your car.
> No login required.
>
> You can download and save the entire manual, but there's a bit of a trick
> to it.

Thanks - I think I bookmarked that link the last time it was mentioned
here.

I'll adjust the tire pressures downward a bit more - I've usually run
them closer to 30 than 32. I just had some suspension and brake work
done (new front/rear pads, new front sway bar bushings, and new tie
rods) which improved the loose handling I'd been experiencing. Next up
will probably be replacement of the rear control arms per the dealer's
recommendation.

Dave

Dave Garrett wrote:
<snip>

> Next up
> will probably be replacement of the rear control arms per the dealer's
> recommendation.

you can do just the bushings if you want - no need to do the whole arm.
elle has a write-up of it somewhere.

In article > ,
says...
> Dave Garrett wrote:
> <snip>

> > Next up
> > will probably be replacement of the rear control arms per the dealer's
> > recommendation.
>
> you can do just the bushings if you want - no need to do the whole arm.
> elle has a write-up of it somewhere.

Oh, I remember elle's write-up of it well, I'm just not sure it's
something I want to undertake myself. But in reviewing the dealer
estimate, I see now that they wanted $470 per arm (parts and labor), not
$470 for both arms, which is what I thought they'd told me over the
phone. I've been thinking about installing fully adjustable aftermarket
suspension anyway, and I need to price out the cost differential before
deciding what I want to do. The passenger side of the car got grazed by
a drunk truck driver in an 18-wheeler a number of years ago, and
although it wasn't as bad as it sounds, it resulted in the camber being
tweaked enough to where it's impossible to get the alignment exactly
where it should be.

Dave

Dave Garrett wrote:
> In article > ,
> says...
>> Dave Garrett wrote:
>> <snip>
>
>>> Next up
>>> will probably be replacement of the rear control arms per the dealer's
>>> recommendation.
>> you can do just the bushings if you want - no need to do the whole arm.
>> elle has a write-up of it somewhere.
>
> Oh, I remember elle's write-up of it well, I'm just not sure it's
> something I want to undertake myself. But in reviewing the dealer
> estimate, I see now that they wanted $470 per arm (parts and labor), not
> $470 for both arms, which is what I thought they'd told me over the
> phone.

precisely! bushings are ~$60 each. with elle's quickie tool, the job
shouldn't take much more than 1 hour. with full strip-down and arm
replacement, it's at least an hour per side.

> I've been thinking about installing fully adjustable aftermarket
> suspension anyway, and I need to price out the cost differential before
> deciding what I want to do.

the only thing that i know to available adjustable at the back is the
top control arm to set camber.

> The passenger side of the car got grazed by
> a drunk truck driver in an 18-wheeler a number of years ago, and
> although it wasn't as bad as it sounds, it resulted in the camber being
> tweaked enough to where it's impossible to get the alignment exactly
> where it should be.

sure, that happens, but be sure. i was once told that my rear toe
couldn't be set because the suspension wasn't adjustable and that it
probably had crash damage. once i showed the dude what to do, i got it
set no problem. camber is different, but sometimes, if the control arms
are tightened prematurely, the car doesn't sit right and this may affect
apparent camber. control arms are supposed to be tightened with the
full weight of the vehicle bearing on them - makes sure theres no torque
set into any of the bushings.