rec.autos.makers.chrysler FAQ, Part 1/6

Archive-name: autos/chrysler-faq/general/part1
Posting-Frequency: 15 days
Last-modified: 2009/1/24
Version: 6.1

This section is generally revised every 300 days.
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IMPORTANT. Do not attempt to respond to .
Due to spam this address DOES NOT GO ANYWHERE.
Instead, go to allpar.com and provide feedback from there.
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* Important Note * Chrysler generally refers to the full Chrysler
Corporation (Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, Plymouth, DeSoto, Eagle, Simca, Rootes
Group, Sunbeam, Singer, Hillman, Humber, and AMC).

DISCLAIMER:
The author and contributors assume no responsibility for errors or
omissions, or for damages resulting from the use of the information
or opinions contained herein.
Some of the information is presented as opinion rather than fact.
The maintainer does not claim to be an authority.
Information below may be reproduced in any way IF credit is
given to the writers and maintainer; and it is not published in
book or magazine form without the prior written permission of the
maintainer; that the maintainer receives, without asking, a FREE
copy of the final material; and that no changes are made (except for
formatting) without the express permission of the maintainer
(David Zatz - contact me via allpar.com).
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The latest copy may be obtained from
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CONTENTS

Part 1 -
Related Resources (groups, Web sites, recall/TSB info)
Before You Post, Read This!
Frequently Asked Chrysler/Mopar Questions
Up and Coming
The Newsgroup: charter, notes, rationale

Part 2
What should I do...
1. ... before I post?
2. ... if I have problems with Chrysler?
3. ... if I own this car? (list of models and what to look for)
Oil Filter Discussion
List of All Engines Since 1966
1. Guide to V-8s
List of All Body Styles Since 1966

Part 3
Engine Codes
Classic Car Troubleshooting
Reading codes without a scan tool
(computer controlled, carbureted engines)
Crankcase inlet air filter, 2.2/2.5 engines.

Part 4
Driveability: engine idling, power, mileage, stalling
Transmissions
This part will be discontinued

Part 5
Funny noises
Oil leaks
Temperature stuff
This part will be discontinued

Part 6
Troubleshooting (except what is covered by parts 3, 4, and 5)
This part will be discontinued

Related FAQs:
Neon - maintained by the Neon mailing list.


************************************************** **********************
BEFORE POSTING WITH COMPLAINTS/QUESTIONS

1. Check the FAQ.

2. Paranoia, overposting, and thoughtless posts are common.
Show off your intelligence and maturity.

3. Do not confuse Chrysler with your dealership,
the zone office, or the guy who picks up the phone.

4. If you are having problems with Chrysler or your dealer, read
the relevant parts of the FAQ (1, 2) and the Web site.

5. The natural inclination of people who have been mistreated is
to respond to many posts. However, all companies sometimes make
lemons or fail to treat customers well. Try to restrain anger.

************************************************** **********************
- Related Resources:

http://allpar.com/ - major owner/enthusiast site
* Models, history, repair, performance info

Phone Numbers
1-800-992-1997 Chrysler Customer Service - USA
1-800-465-2001 Chrysler Canada
1-800-255-9877 adapting new vehicles for people w/disabilities.
1-800-626-1523 Mopar catalog of manuals, videos, books (free)
1-800-677-5782 local 5-Star Dealer locator
Mopar Performance Tech Line: 1-888-528-HEMI.
Hours are Monday through Friday, 9 AM to 5 PM ET.

Other Resources

Plymouth Owners Club (Plymouth & Fargo 25+ years old)
203 Main St., Cavalier, North Dakota 58220
Great magazine! http://www.plymouthbulletin.com/

WPC Restorers' Club (Walter P Chrysler Club)
Also a good magazine!
http://www.chryslerclub.org/

Chrysler Canada Customer Service:
Chrysler Center, P.O. Box 1621
Windsor, Ontario N9A 4H6

Chrysler Europe NV
Woluwedal 106-108, 1200 Brussels, Belgium - Europe

The Chrysler Historical Foundation, at 12501 Chrysler
Freeway, CIMS 410-11-21, Highland Park, MI 48288,
can supply you with service manuals, build records,
and stock photos for a reasonable fee (1967 or older cars).

Other cars, http://www.acarplace.com/
Valiant series, http://www.valiant.org/
PT Cruiser, http://www.ptcruizer.com/

Newsgroups
rec.autos.makers.chrysler
rec.autos.makers.jeep+willys
alt.hi-po.mopars
alt.hi-po.mopars.neon
alt.autos.dodge.trucks
others in rec.autos.*
.. wiz.mopar

Chrysler was the first make in the rec.autos.makers.* hierarchy, but
Volkswagen was the first make to have a Big Seven newsgroup.
Chrysler beat both GM and Ford to having a Big Seven newsgroup!
The first request for discussion was filed by David Zatz on
July 28, 1994.

************************************************** **********************
Thanks to Gene Fusco for the Mopar Mailing List's FAQ; thanks also to
Lloyd R. Parker, Wayne Toy, Bohdan Bodnar, and Dan Stern.

*************************CONTENTS***************** ************

This is divided into corporate and car sections.

I. CORPORATE

1. What does DCX mean? DaimlerChrysler
DCX is/was DaimlerChrysler's stock symbol. The company will
be / was renamed Daimler in summer 2007. The former Chrysler
Group became Chrylser, LLC, part of Chrysler
Holdings, LLC, a privately owned company 80% owned by Cerberus
and 20% by Daimler.

A current deal has Fiat exchanging access to all of its
small car technologies and designs, in exchange for a 35%
share of Chrysler, LLC. Cerberus will also give equity to the UAW
for the health care fund, retaining only equity in Chrysler Financial.

The Fiat deal will once again push a majority ownership outside
the United States, but will also give Chrysler access to technologies
and an infrastructure that it no longer has thanks to nine years of
Daimler ownership.

2. What is Chrysler's US customer service number? 800-992-1997

3. What is Chrysler's e-mail address?

Contact Chrysler via a Web form - see "contact us" on their
brand web sites (e.g. dodge.com, chrysler.com, jeep.com).

4. What about the merger / takeover?

Chrysler execs got about $60 million in personal profit.
Daimler bought Chrysler, doubling their profits, then
reportedly siphoned off Chrysler profits via accounting
tricks to make Mercedes look more profitable.
Daimler spent Chrysler's $8-10 billion war chest.
Only one Chrysler rep on the board left from original four.
Many plants were sold. Others are being sold.
Decontenting to fix Mercedes' losses became noticeable.

Chrysler was transferred to Cerberus, a private equity firm,
in summer 2007, with Daimler retaining about 20% of the new
Chrysler Holding, LLC. Chrylser, LLC was part
of Chrysler Holding with the other part being Chrysler Financial.

5. What about building cars in China?
See http://www.allpar.com/cars/concepts/...china-car.html
for the current status. At this point Chrysler appears to be
readying itself to build cars in the US.based on Fiat designs.

7. What's the deal with Chrysler and Mitsubishi?

The Avenger/Sebring and Caliber were
jointly developed - Chrylser was leading
both, though they used newer Mitsubishi basic platforms.
(MMC has now decided not to use the mid-sized sedans.)
Partnerships with Mitsubishi appear to have ended.

You can read about Chrysler's future
vehicles at http://www.allpar.com/model/upcoming.html

9. How reliable are Consumer Reports' ratings?

See the discussion at http://www.allpar.com/cr.html

10. How can I get help for problems Chrysler won't fix?

See the discussion at http://www.allpar.com/trouble.html.
Keep trying the Chrysler Customer Center. Know the TSBs.
Visit http://www.nhtsa.gov ... keep trying and keep your cool.

11. What's the deal with Chrysler Europe, Simca, and Talbot?

Chrysler owned Simca and Rootes until the late 70s, but
sales kept going up and down (usually down). Peugeot bought them
and sold the Omni as the Talbot. They had Simca/Sunbeam engines
(Lloyd Parker). The Centura sold in Australia was a Simca (Dan Stern).
See http://www.allpar.com/world/ for many details.
These cars and the former Rootes Group brands, such as Singer,
Sunbeam, Hillman, and Humber, are covered by
http://www.rootes-chrysler.co.uk/

********

14. Should I use high octane gas?

Only if your car was designed for it (see your owner's manual) or if
you've advanced the timing or your engine is knocking. According to
Chrysler and others, many high-octane gasolines have a low
driveability index, which can cause long cold start times,
warm-up sags, hesitations, and driveway die outs. Under the law,
ALL gasolines sold in the US must meet certain standards for
detergent; if you really need to "drive your engine clean" get a
bottle of Techron or Mopar engine cleaner.

Chrysler turbo engines are all designed to use premium. The 3.5
V6 and 5.7 Hemi use midgrade. SRT engines use premium.

20. Is X good for my engine? (includes Slick50)

The Toyota FAQ (Todd Haverstock) sez: "Independent labs as well
as engine manufacturer Briggs and Stratton have rendered a
verdict that Slick 50 and similar oil treatments are useless."
The Gasoline FAQ says most gasoline additives are useless.
Others have weighed in on that score, and DuPont sued to prevent
Slick 50 from using Teflon (unsuccessfully).

22. Did the first-gen Mini really use a modified Neon engine?

Yes, it's a smaller version of the Neon engine designed for European
Neons and a small Chrysler that never materialized (due to Daimler-Benz).
The factory was a joint venture with Rover.

23. What does SOHC, SMPI, etc mean? What do I have?

Note: No current Chrysler has a distributor or throttle body injection.

* DIS means distributorless ignition system. No rotor!
* SOHC and DOHC refer to the number of camshafts; one or two.
* EFI means electronic fuel injection, such as the following:
* TBI - throttle body injection; one or two injectors
spray fuel into the air as it heads to the cylinders.
* MPI uses one fuel injector for each cylinder. It sprays fuel in
the intake manifold, firing at the intake valves. Smoother than
TBI, with more power *and* better mileage.
* SMPI is sequential multiple-point injection; the injector only
fires when the fuel can go straight through the valve and into
the cylinder instead of splashing onto a closed valve.
* Direct injection sprays fuel directly into each cylinder.
This is mainly used in diesel engines (thanks, Michael Turley!)
-- Note: all current Chrysler products use DIS and returnless
SMPI. Mitsubishi is pioneering direct injection for gas engines.
The current system is coil on plug ignition which provides a separate coil
for each spark plug, located right on top of the plug, for the best control
and spark power.

25. What kind of oil should I use in my four cylinder engine?

On February 7, 1995, a Chrysler engineer said 5W30 was best for
all four-cylinder non-turbo engines, for winter or
year-round in climates such as that of New Jersey.
All dealers I surveyed incorrectly recommended and used 10W30!
- In 1993 and 1998 Chrysler said 5W30 was best for all its cars.
- Dan Stern says synthetic 10W30 is better than natural 5W30.
- The benefits of 5W30 or synthetics seem greatest in cold
weather when oil is most viscous (before the engine warms).
- Even GM recommends 5W30 on their Vortec V8s.
- 5W30 was recommended for all years of the 2.0 in most climates.
**** - Hemi uses a different weight than most engines

CHECK YOUR MANUAL.

For my car, recommended oil changes are at 6 months / 7,500
miles. I change it at 6 months or 6,000 miles. GM says many owners
do not need to change oil until 10,000 miles! If you are concerned,
use synthetic and change at 6,000.

** CHECK YOUR MANUAL **. Dealers often suggest things like changing
your antifreeze every three months to get easy money. If
you exceed Chrysler's recommendations, do the easy work yourself.

PS> Overheating after a an antifreeze change/radiator flushing
means your mechanic didn't purge the system correctly.
Be careful to thoroughly purge the system of air bubbles -
or invest in head gaskets. This is VERY important.

AGAIN -
Check your owner's manual and don't rely on mechanics, who often
rely on out of date memories for their information. If you have a
turbo, we recommend synthetic oil. Follow the recommended
oil change intervals. GM says many owners do not need to change
oil until 10,000 miles! But follow the book, not the 3/3,000
mentality. Most people do not need to follow the severe service
schedule, according to GM and others.

26. What kind of engine do I have ???

Raise the hood and check the emissions sticker. You can decode your
vehicle ID number (VIN) using most car manuals. The emissions sticker
will tell you the displacement of the engine.

27. What is a Mopar? Do I have one?

Mopar is slang for a Chrysler-produced car. Some extend it to AMCs
and to MMC products (e.g. Colt) sold by Chrysler; some restrict it to
high performance only. It is the name of Chrysler's parts division.
Mopar stands for MOtor PARts. MoPar is a registered trademark.

28. Which are the Diamond Star models?

Diamond Star models are those built by the Diamond Star (DSM)
plant in Illinois. This was a joint venture but is now 100%
MMC. The Stealth, Colt, Sapparo, Ram 50, and FWD Challenger
were re-badged Mitsubishis made in Japan.

29. What are the K-cars?

Herb DaSilva:
... Chrysler used the components on the Aries/Reliant (K) in many of
its other platforms. These platforms... share similar distance
between the wheels on the same axle, and have the same suspension
design. Most K variants can swap struts (H is an exception).
K derivates include: Laser (pre-88)/Daytona (G), Shadow/Sundance
(P), LeBaron/New Yorker (J), LeBaron sedan (pre-90)/Lancer
(H), Dynasty/New Yorker/Imperial (C), Acclaim/Spirit/LeBaron sedan
(AA). Each derivative has a different wheelbase and floor pan.
First-generation minivans are also loosely based on the K.

These cars are collectively referred to as EEKs.
There is a mailing list for them at http://www.eekcars.com/

30. How do I find the fault codes stored in my engine computer?

See Part 3 of this FAQ.

32. How often should I change my trans fluid?

Check your service manual. The severe service definition means that
the vehicle is operated *primarily* in one of those conditions.

MODERN TRANSMISSIONS WILL BE DESTROYED
IF YOU USE THE WRONG FLUID.
See http://www.allpar.com/fix/trans.html

Even some 3-speed transmissions are NOT compatible
with Dexron - read your manual !!!

34. What kind of gas should I use?

Use the octane level your owner's manual recommends and the brand
you have had good luck with. If your engine knocks adjust the timing.

35. No longer relevant; deleted.

36. What about lemons?

To quote the rec.autos FAQ --
every auto manufacturer has manufactured a lemon or two; even Honda
admits to this. Please don't waste everyone's time by announcing to
the world that your `brand x' automobile is terrible, so
all brand x automobiles are terrible, so no one should ever buy a
car from the brand x company. Such articles are worse than
useless, because they cause wasted bandwidth while carrying little
or no useful information.

37. Are K&N filters worth it?

David Cooley reported on a magazine test of aftermarket air filters.
The paper filters were respectable, but the K&N and Accell filters
flowed almost 3 times as much air when dirty as clean paper filters
of the same size. The K&N passed less particulate matter than the
paper filter; as it got dirtier outside, they sprayed on a new coat
of oil (without cleaning) and found it filtered even better.

K&N filters change your engine sound, rarely need replacement,
and flow better when dirty. Other than that, you may not notice much
difference unless you have a high-efficiency exhaust and performance
engine. There has been debate over the actual filtering ability of
these filters; the power boost on TBI cars is negligible.
So. . .probably not.

38. Is there anything special I should do if I have ABS?

Marv Miller suggests replacing brake fluid every 2-4 years
regardless of car make.
Use only the brake fluid the car maker recommends!!! Fully
depressurize the system before adding or changing brake fluids.
Note - ABS is now far more reliable than it used to be.
The primary source of failure is dirt in the sensors, which can
easily be cleaned.

39. What kind of transmission fluid should I use? Is Dexron OK?

Use ONLY what it says in your owner's manual to use. Many Chrysler
transmissions are NOT compatible with standard fluid! ATF+3
is usually the best one to use with automatic transmissions before
2001, ATF+4 after.

THIS IS AN IMPORTANT and very misunderstood issue.

You should really visit http://www.allpar.com/fix/trans.html if you have
a four-speed or five-speed Chrysler automatic. Even most three-speed
automatics are required to use ATF+4.

40. Are Chrysler transmissions still junk?

Not if you use the right transmission fluid. By the way,
the 545 is actually based on the old, reliable 727.
See #39 and Part 2 of the FAQ.

42. Aren't Chryslers junk? / Has Mercedes improved Chrysler quality?

Chrysler was working on quality before the takeover, yielding the
PT Cruiser - which is beating the Honda Civic on quality
surveys - and the Jeep Liberty, which is also doing very well. Chrysler
has been making great strides in quality. Mercedes, if anything,
damaged those efforts by emphasizing an "expert" approach rather than a
Toyota-style inclusive/participatory approach to quality.

Look at Mercedes' quality reports, then at Chrysler's. Generally,
Chrysler quality TROUNCES Mercedes. So how did Mercedes help?

43. Engine sludge - what's the deal?

Early 2.7 liter engines in some models had a more than normal
occurence of oil degredation resulting in a thick substance
called "sludge" which can cause major engine damage. This problem
also afflected some Toyotas, Hondas, and other makes. If you have a
2.7 made before 2004, you may want to use synthetic oil (which can
also lengthen your oil change intervals). This is rare but nasty.
The problem appears to have been resolved as of 2005.


86. All other questions.

Check the computer codes or replace the ballast resistor (if you have one!).

******************* UP AND COMING ******************

This section has been replaced by http://www.allpar.com/news/
and http://www.allpar.com/model/upcoming.html

Dual-clutch, automatically shifted manual transmission to
increase acceleration AND gas mileage:
http://www.allpar.com/corporate/auto...nsmission.html

Brand new line of V6 engines with state of the art gadgets:
http://www.allpar.com/mopar/phoenix-engines.html

Hemi upgrades:
http://www.allpar.com/mopar/new-mopar-hemi.html

Big changes to the Ram?
http://www.allpar.com/model/ram/2009-ram.html

And of course the new minivans!
http://www.allpar.com/model/m/2008-minivans.html

*********************** AUTOMATIC TRANS FLUID **********************

Many people have destroyed their transmissions by using the wrong fluid.
Some people have had bad transmission problems go away when they changed
the fluid. Follow Chrysler's recommendations. Ignore the alternative fluid
(as in "if Mopar is unavailable, use...").

See http://www.allpar.com/fix/trans.html for details.

Note that this is also true of Toyotas (as per http://www.toyoland.com )

*********************** NEWSGROUP CHARTER ***********
(This section never changes. The newsgroup was created around 1994.)

- The Newsgroup Rec.Autos.Makers.Chrysler -- CHARTER

COVERAGE. Rec.autos.makers.chrysler was set up to cover issues related
to cars and trucks made by Dodge, Plymouth, Chrysler, Fargo, DeSoto,
Jeep, Eagle, and all other makes sold or marketed by Chrysler Corp.

BEHAVIOR. Political comments and commercial advertising will be
discouraged. However, *short* product announcements, preferably
restricted to the name, availability, and a very brief description of
the product's function (where applicable) are acceptable.

Discussion of whether Chrysler products are of good or bad quality,
lengthy comparisons to Hondas or other cars, and similar arguments and
flamewars with no foreseeable conclusion are heavily discouraged.
Participants are asked to be kind, considerate, and supportive, and to
generally keep an open, warm atmosphere so that the function of this
newsgroup may be maintained.

RATIONALE. This group is proposed to help Chrysler (CC) vehicle owners
to support each other, save money, and maximize enjoyment of their autos.

As in rec.autos.vw, Chrysler owners need a forum where they feel
unreservedly welcomed, and where they can obtain esoteric information
from involved people with similar experiences and vehicles.

This newsgroup should be general enough for those who know little about
cars to get a broad range of information and advise from, while allowing
those more into the products to exchange their views and advice.

In a world dominated by GM, Ford, and VW (Europe) products, Chrysler
owners often find discussions difficult. Most aftermarket parts and
advice are for GM and Ford owners; knowledge about Chrysler is hard to
find. The press don't cover CC as well as they could -- and CC's
dissemination of information to the press and the public is poor.

Chrysler products have quirks which most mechanics don't seem to be
aware of, leading them to replace transmissions when the fault is in a
20 cent vacuum hose, or to replace the engine computer instead of
plugging in a hose or changing a sensor. Chryslers are often seen as
ordinary American cars (unlike makes which many mechanics will admit
they are not familiar with) -- but what will work on a GM or Ford will
often not work on a Dodge. There is a vast ocean of experience in
Chrysler products out on the Internet which may help owners to save
time, money, and trouble.

CC vehicles are common enough, yet idiosyncratic enough, to deserve
their own place in the Net hierarchy -- just as Volkswagens are. In
addition, it is important for CC vehicle owners to have a place to
discuss the problems and benefits of ownership, to exchange detailed
information and personal experiences, in a supportive and positive
atmosphere. In short, I hope to develop a group as vibrant and helpful
as the Mopar mailing list or the rec.autos.VW group have been, while
making this group accessible to all Dodge, Plymouth, Jeep, Eagle, and
Chrysler owners, even those who don't know what a Mopar is.

FAQ maintained by David Zatz who works at http://www.toolpack.com/

(end of FAQ part 1)

Archive-name: autos/chrysler-faq/general/part2
Posting-Frequency: 90 days
Last-modified: 2009/1/24
Version: 4.9

This section is generally revised every 440 days.

IMPORTANT. Do not attempt to respond to .
Due to spam this address DOES NOT GO ANYWHERE.
Instead, use the form at http://www.allpar.com/i/form.html
Thank you.
- - - - - - - - - - - -
DISCLAIMER:
While every effort has been taken to insure the accuracy of the
information contained in this FAQ list compilation, the author and
contributors assume no responsibility for errors or omissions, or for
damages resulting from the use of the information contained herein.
Some of the information is presented as opinion rather than fact.
The writers and the maintainer do not claim to be authorities.
information below may be reproduced in any way IF credit is
given to the writers and maintainer; and that it is not published in
book or magazine form without the prior written permission of the
maintainer; that the maintainer receives, without asking, a FREE
copy of the final material; and that no changes are made (except for
formatting) without the express permission of the maintainer
(David Zatz of allpar.com).
- - - - - - - - - - - -
If you did not obtain this FAQ from one of its
newsgroups or from the rtfm.mit.edu archives, it is probably
NOT current. The latest copy may be obtained from
http://www.allpar.com/faq.html
- - - - - - - - - - - -

PART II

*************************CONTENTS***************** ************
What should I do...
1. ... before I post?
2. ... (removed)
3. ... if I have problems with Chrysler?
4. ... if I own this car? (list of models and what to look for)

Oil Filter Discussion

List of All Engines Since 1966
1. Guide to V-8s
2. New transmission designations decoded (new!)

List of All Body Styles Since 1966

************************************************** *********************
BEFORE POSTING WITH COMPLAINTS/QUESTIONS

1. Check the FAQ. Most answers are there.

2. Please don't post messages like "this broke and I will speak to the
dealer about it sometime." Go to the dealer first; if they cannot fix
it, and it is not in the FAQ, THEN go to the newsgroup.

3. If you are having problems with Chrysler, and have not yet read the
relevant FAQ section, please do so. At least call them (800-992-1997).

4. If you are having problems with Chrysler and are angry and bitter
at them, an angry message or two is fine. But you won't help
anyone by going overboard.

************************************************** *********************
HOW TO DEAL WITH CHRYSLER CORP.
************************************************** *********************

(Note: Thanks to Dan Adams for his help with parts of this -
Chrysler Corp should be grateful to have him!)

* The order in which you should deal with a problem is something like
this:
1. Speak politely but assertively with the service writer.
2. Ask to go for a ride with the mechanic and discuss relevant issues
wuth them.
3. Service manager.
4. 800 992 1997.
5. Zone (voluntary buyback negotiations IF APPLICABLE)
6. Arbitration / Consumer Affairs / Attorney General if applicable
AND needed.

* Be *polite* and *calm* but assertive at all times. Do not take "no"
for an answer but do *not* act angry or make threats. Chrysler sometimes
helps, even out of warranty, but they need to be gently pushed; they are
generally defensive; and they have a strange impression that all dealers
are wonderful and honest while most customers are scum. The Customer Center
reps
often don't know what they're talking about, so elaboration may help; they
are not car people or particularly well paid. If all else fails, call back
and speak to someone else. Always take down their name for your reference!

* Know what you're talking about. Check the FAQ, TSBs, your computer
codes, and recalls before you visit the dealer with a problem.

* Don't expect Chrysler to change something because it's listed in a TSB
(technical service bulletin). TSBs describe solutions to problems which
may not apply to your car; they are *not* recalls, though Chrysler often
fixes cars out of warranty if there is a known problem and TSB on it.

* Even if you are in an adversarial relationship, act in a friendly,
nonthreatening, non-adversarial manner. It works better and makes both
parties less angry.

* Daniel Adams writes: Chrysler corparte headquarters does tend to back
the field reps but a good service writer can get to them and help you
more than you would believe. Don't take your frustration out on the service
writers, they carry quite a bit of pull behind the scenes. [And sometimes
it helps to know who the good service writers are.]

* Don't take "no" for an answer. Call Chrysler at 800-992-1997 from a
pay phone if you have to. They will call the dealer. Often, the dealer
will discover they don't need to charge you or keep your car after all!

* If your dealer keeps fixing the same thing over and over again, get
another dealer. Or try the newsgroup.

* If your dealer treats you badly, lies to you, refuses to do the work,
etc., get another dealer.

* Consider service BEFORE buying the car when you choose a dealer. Also
consider asking the salesman who the best service writer is.

* If you have a continuing problem, speak to the people at the Customer
Center. You may need to deal with a zone rep, the final word at
Chrysler. Others can overrule them but THEY (generally) WILL NOT. Some reps are
good. Others are useless. There have been many reports that the reps in
some areas are exceedingly sensitive and need to be handled with kid
gloves. (See message about service writers above -- they can often get
action where ordinary mortals cannot).

* Note: if, as Continental Auto Body (of Wyckoff, New Jersey) did to my
car, your dealer should get your car into an accident, immediatly retain
a lawyer and find out what your options are. Examine the damage
personally before they have a chance to cover it up and lie about it.

****** NON-CHRYSLER SOLUTIONS ****** (after internal solutions fail)

courtesy of http://www.acarplace.com/

* Contact your local consumer affairs department. Note: May not work in
states with a predominantly anti-government/libertarian attitude.

1. File an official lemon law complaint with your state. This
will get their attention and help negotiation. You can
usually get a better deal through negotiation than in court.
Hiring a lemon law specialist may help - good ones will offer
to negotiate *first.* Chrysler has a reputation for being easy!

2. Go through the Customer Arbitration Board. Results with this
group have been mixed.

* Most lawyers don't know the first thing about lemon law! A good one
will know the people at the zone office and will try to
talk nice to them to solve the problem. If negotiation is not their
first move, they are not the right lawyer.

* Your chances of getting cash are slim. You will probably get a credit
(buy-back). You will usually not get all of your money back. Chrysler
tends to follow state laws; most impose a penalty on each mile of use
before the first lemon-type complaint. This is normal and OK.

* Go through the latest TSBs again. Something new might have come up.

*Whenever your dealer lies to you or is too incompetent, send a letter
to Dealer Agreements or the Customer Center, Box 302, Centerline, MI
48015. It may not help you but it might help someone else! (Actually, it
may not help anyone else, either).

* If in a dispute with a five-star dealer, feel free to return your
customer satisfaction survey with very negative ratings. Dan Adams
assures us that these surveys are taken very seriously. Be aware that
all surveys are also given to the dealers - not just in aggregate form,
but the individual surveys - so be careful what you say, don't go
overboard. For more details on what happens to your surveys, see
http://www.allpar.com/fix/surveys.html.

* If you get into a dispute with an auto body shop, check your state's
laws to see what regulations and rules might be applicable.

************************************************** **********************

WHAT SHOULD I DO IF I HAVE THE FOLLOWING CAR/ENGINE?

ENGINES

2.2/2.5 turbo:
-- check for fuel leaks and loose fuel line connections

Carbureted V-8/slant six engines
-- clean the crankcase inlet air filter regularly.
-- keep a spare ballast resistor in your glove compartment
-- make sure the stove and damper (vacuum-powered valve) are working
-- check/replace vacuum tubes regularly
-- make sure float level is adjusted well

Any engine without DIS (if you have a rotor, this applies to you) ---
-- Problems may be caused by low quality rotor or different
brand rotor and distributor cap. (Standard-Bluestreak was recommended
by Dan Stern. There have been malformed Mopar 2.2/2.5 caps).
-- We've seen an aftermarket cap replacement that allows for use of
conventional, longer-life wires.

2.7 V6, pre-2006: use synthetic oil to avoid sludge and maintain the PCV system

TRANSMISSIONS

4-speed automatic
-- all: Change fluid regularly with *recommended* fluid.
See http://www.allpar.com/fix/trans.html
-- KNOW the right fluid (owner's manual ONLY). Do NOT trust mechanics.
-- DO NOT use non-recommended fluid or ANY additives.
-- Check for TSBs and have the computer updated if
needed. If a dealer doesn't feel/hear it, find another. Persist
until they follow the TSB. The new computer save wear and tear
on the transmission for various reasons. (1996+ transmissions
have software-upgradable computers)
-- MOST problems are due to MAINTENANCE ISSUES. Do the maintenance
with EXACTLY the fluids and parts recommended!
-- DO NOT USE DEXRON! Do not trust any mechanic! ASK!
-- If you have a problem, check the allpar forums and try getting
second opinions. Mechanics, including dealership mechanics, are
quick to demand that you replace or rebuilt these things even when
the problems are minor! Even honest mechanics are jaded by past
breakdowns...
-- If you DO have a problem, make SURE the first thing they check
is the computer error code. Most problems appear to be sensor issues
rather than mechanical breakdowns. That's the difference between
$100 and $2500!

BRAKES
-- You may be able to prevent problems with ABS systems by
changing the brake fluid every 4 years (or more).
-- Often, the ABS light goes on due to dirt in the sensors. Try to
troubleshoot it yourself using the engine-code method.
http://www.allpar.com/fix/codes.html


******************* CONSUMER REPORTS DISCUSSIONS *******************
Transferred to Web site, http://www.allpar.com/cr.html
************************************************** *********

From Lloyd Parker, updated since then:

**** Engines used in Chryslers since 1966:

Lots of info on most of these engines is at
http://www.allpar.com/mopar.html

* denotes an engine still in production for Chrysler vehicles
(some are still used elsewhere, e.g. 2.2 in China, 2.4 in Russia)

4 cylinders

1.4 (MMC) -- Colt, Champ
1.4 (CC/Rover) - BMW Mini
1.5 (Sunbeam) -- Cricket (British)
1.5 (MMC) -- Colt, Summit
1.6 (MMC) -- Colt, Champ, Challenger, Sapporo, Arrow
1.6 (Peugeot) -- Omni, 024, Charger, Horizon, TC3, Turismo
1.6 turbo (MMC) -- Colt
1.6 DOHC (MMC) -- Colt, Summit
1.6 DOHC turbo (MMC) -- Colt
1.6 (CC/Rover) - Mini and export Neons
1.7 (VW) -- Omni, 024, Charger, Horizon, TC3, Turismo
1.8 (MMC) -- Colt, Vista, Summit, Laser, Talon
1.8 (CC) -- Neons outside the US
1.8 (WE)* -- World Engine - Caliber, more (2006+)
2.0 (MMC) -- Arrow, Vista
2.0 DOHC (MMC) -- Laser, Talon
2.0 DOHC turbo (MMC) -- Laser, Talon
2.0 SOHC -- Neon
2.0 DOHC -- Neon, Sebring, Avenger, Talon, Stratus/Cirrus/Breeze
2.0 (WE)* -- World Engine - Caliber, more (2006+)
2.2 -- Omni, 024, Charger, Horizon, TC3, Turismo, Aries, Lancer,
Reliant, Shadow, Sundance, 400, 600, Caravelle, Caravan,
Voyager, LeBaron, Laser, Daytona, New Yorker, E-Class,
Executive, Limousine (note: TBI and carb versions)
2.2 turbo -- LeBaron, New Yorker, Limousine, Laser, Daytona,
Lancer, TC, 600, Shadow, Caravelle, Sundance, Omni,
Charger, E-Class, Shelby (note: MPI)
2.2 DOHC turbo -- Spirit, Daytona (joint venture with Lotus)
2.2 DOHC turbo -- TC (joint venture with Maserati)
2.2 (Renault) -- Medallion
2.4 (MMC) -- Vista, Summit
2.4* DOHC (CC) -- Cirrus/Stratus/Breeze, 1996+ minivans, PT
2.4 Turbo (CC) - PT GT, SRT-4, Mexican Stratus R/T
2.4 (WE)* -- World Engine - Caliber, Compass, Patriot, more (2006+)
2.5 (CC) -- minivans, Aries, Reliant, Shadow, Sundance,
Duster, 600, Lancer, Dynasty, Daytona, Spirit, Acclaim,
LeBaron, Caravelle, Dakota (to 1995) - no carb versions
2.5 turbo (CC) -- minivans, Spirit, Acclaim, Shadow,
Sundance, LeBaron, Daytona (Note: MPI)
2.5 (AMC) -- Wrangler, Cherokee, Premier, Dakota (96+)
2.6 (MMC) -- New Yorker, E-Class, Executive, Limousine,
LeBaron, 400, 600, Aries, Reliant, Caravan, Voyager
2.6 turbo (MMC) -- Conquest (MMC)

2.5 is 2.2 with balance shafts, minor changes. 2.0 (CC) is 2.2 with
different heads, fuel system, some tweaks. 3.9 V-6 (below) based on 318.
Neon 2.4 is 2.0 with balance shafts, other minor changes.
Chrysler families: 2.2/2.5, 2.0/2.4
----------------------------------
V-6:

2.5 (MMC) -- Sebring, Avenger, Cirrus, Stratus (based on 3.0)
2.7 LH series (1998-2001), Stratus/Sebring
3.0 (MMC) -- LeBaron, TC, minivans, New Yorker, Spirit,
Dynasty, Daytona, Stealth, Shadow ES, Acclaim, Duster
3.0 (Renault) -- Premier, Monaco
3.2 LH series (1998+)
3.3* New Yorker, Dynasty, LH series, minivans
3.5* LH series (1998+), Prowler (steel and aluminum versions) -
Chrysler considers the aluminum version to be entirely new
3.7* V-6 for trucks (2002+)
3.8* New Yorker Fifth Avenue, Wrangler, minivans, etc - bored 3.3
3.9 trucks (3.9 is based on the 318)
4.0* enlarged, modified version of the 3.8 (minivans, etc)

Chrysler-made V6 families are 2.7/3.2, 3.3/3.5/3.8, 3.9/318
MMC 2.5 and 3.0 are related
There have been several performance boosts on 3.3, 3.5, and 3.8 engines

Coming in 2009: Phoenix V6 engines
(see http://www.allpar.com/mopar/phoenix-engines.html )

----------------------------------
The SLANT SIX (share basic design)

2.8 (170) -- Dart, Valiant, Lancer, Barracuda (Canada), A100, D100
3.3 (198) -- Barracuda, Challenger, Dart, Valiant, Duster, Scamp
3.7 (225)-- Polara, Monaco, Coronet, Charger, Mirada, Diplomat, St.
Regis, Challenger, Dart, Aspen, Fury, Belvedere, Satellite,
Barracuda, Valiant, Duster, Scamp, Volare, Lancer

----------------------------------
STRAIGHT SIXES

(flat head) - various sizes - ended in late 1950s for cars
215 - Australian Valiants
245 - Australian Valiants
265 - Australian Valiants
4.0 (AMC) -- Cherokee, Wagoneer, Wrangler, Grand Cherokee
4.2 (AMC) -- Wrangler

Families: 215/245/265, 4.0/4.2, flat heads

The Australian straight sixes was built on a basic design intended for
use in American trucks. They changed from the slant six to
Australian-built 215, 245, and 265 sixes in 1970. The Aussie models had
hemispherical heads, so the 3-2barrel Weber version could honestly be
called a Hemi Six-Pack.

----------------------------------
V-8s

4.5 (273) -- Dart, Valiant, Barracuda, Coronet, Belvedere, Satellite
4.7* -- 1999 Grand Cherokee, Charger R/T (CNG), next-gen Rams
5.2 (318) -- Polara, Monaco, Coronet, Charger, St. Regis, Magnum,
Mirada, Challenger, Dart, Aspen, Fury, VIP, Belvedere,
Satellite, Road Runner, Barracuda, Valiant, Scamp, Duster,
Volare, Cordoba, LeBaron, Newport, New Yorker, Gran Fury,
Imperial, Grand Cherokee, Grand Wagoneer, Diplomat, Demon,
pickups and SUVs thru 2001.
5.6 (340) -- Charger, Challenger, Dart, Barracuda, Duster, Road Runner,
Ramcharger
5.7 Hemi* (345) -- Pickups, LX cars, Grand Cherokee, Durango
5.9 (360) -- LeBaron, Newport, New Yorker, 300, Cordoba, Diplomat,
Polara, Monaco, Challenger, Dart, Aspen, Fury, Gran Fury,
Barracuda, Duster, St. Regis, pickups and SUVs thru 2002.
(345) -- Hemi Magnum engine for trucks, next-gen large cars
5.9 (361) -- Coronet, Charger, Belvedere
5.9 (360-AMC) -- Grand Wagoneer
6.1 Hemi* - SRT8 models
6.3 (383)-- Newport, 300, Town & Country, Polara, Monaco, Coronet,
Charger, Challenger, Dart, Fury, Belvedere, Satellite, Road
Runner, Barracuda, Magnum
6.6 (400) -- Newport, New Yorker, Town & Country, Monaco, Fury, Road
Runner, Gran Fury, Charger, maybe Cordoba, Magnum
7.0 (426, Hemi & Wedge) -- Belvedere, Road Runner, GTX, Barracuda,
Challenger, Charger, Coronet, Daytona, Superbird
7.2 (440) -- Newport, New Yorker, 300, Town & Country, Imperial, Polara,
Monaco, Coronet, Charger, Challenger, Fury, VIP, Belvedere,
Road Runner, GTX, Barracuda, Daytona, Superbird

----------------------------------
8.0 V-10* -- Viper, Ram trucks (two versions, fairly different)
Truck version (cast iron) ended in 2002. Aluminum continues.

----------------------------------

Gary Howell clarifies:

** Small blocks (except new 4.7) **
273/318/340/360 are LA engines they look the same from the outside.
LA stands for "Lightweight-casting A"
[There is now an A/LA page at http://www.allpar.com/mopar/318.html]

273 cu. in. 1964-69 3.31 stroke and 3.63 bore
318 cu. in. 1968-91 3.31 stroke and 3.91 bore
340 cu. in. 1968-73 3.31 stroke and 4.04 bore
360 cu. in. 1971-91 3.58 stroke and 4.00 bore

The A engines (not LA) are older small blocks and look the same on the
outside to each other. The blocks are different in deck height, but
share some internal components with the LA block. The cylinder heads
and intake are different.

277 cu. in. 1956 3.75 bore and 3.12 stroke
301 cu. in. 1957 3.91 bore and 3.12 stroke
318 cu. in. 1957-67 3.91 bore and 3.31 stroke

The Magnum 318 and 360 engines are LA engines with different cylnder
heads. The blocks are physically the same as the earier LA engines,
except the oil
passage for the shaft mounted rockers is not drilled, because the Magnum
engines oil through the push rods. The boss is there if you need to use
the old style heads.

** Big Blocks **

There are eight different big blocks. The B blocks are short deck and
the RBs are tall deck. The RBs require a wider intake manifold.
[RB engine page: http://www.allpar.com/mopar/383.html]

B: 350, 361, 383, 400
RB: 383, 413, 426 Wedge (not Hemi), 440

All B engine use 3.38 stroke crank with different bores, and all RB
engines use 3.75 stroke crank with different bores. You'll notice that
the 383 is listed in two differnent places. There were two different
383s; the RB is very rare, only produced 64. The 350 was only produced
in 1958.

************************************************** *********
NEW TRANSMISSION DESIGNATIONS

(Courtesy Daniel Adams)

On the new transmissions (e.g. 41TE):

4 amount of forward gears (from 3 to 6 at this point!)
1 the torque rating for the trans (on a 1-8 scale 1 lowest 8 strongest)
T or R transaxle or rear wheel drive
e or h electronic or hydraulic

There are two five-speed automatics: a Chrysler-designed unit based on the
727, and a Mercedes-designed unit

62TE six-speed automatic is similar to the four-speed car automatics and
actually has seven forward speeds including a kickdown gear.

Truck automatics are generally 727-based (unlike minivan autos.)

Transmission list with details on many types of transmission:
http://www.allpar.com/mopar/transmissions.html

Dual clutch automatics:
http://www.allpar.com/corporate/auto...nsmission.html

************************************************** *********
CAR BODY TYPES

Because the list of car body types was getting rather confusing - there are
far too
many models that jumped from one platform to another - we have taken this
out of the
FAQ and refer you instead to full, informative lists of cars by body type at:
http://www.allpar.com/model/rwdbodies.html (rear drive and trucks/Jeeps)
http://www.allpar.com/model/fwdbodies.html (front drive).

For an example of the difficulty, the early Barracuda was a modified
Valiant, hence an A-body; later it
moved to a platform shared only with the Challenger (E-body). The New
Yorker was a K-car, C-body, and several more...in one year sharing two
different bodies (not unlike the Stratus whose sedan and coupe versions
were built on totally different platforms, made by two different companies,
in the same years!). The Fury moved from C to B body in the late 1970s.
There are many others... cars were resized, transformed, dropped, and
brought back with the same names.

Archive-name: autos/chrysler-faq/general/part4
Posting-Frequency: 365 days
Last-modified: 2009/1/25
Version: 4.3

IMPORTANT. Do not attempt to respond to .
Due to spam this address DOES NOT GO ANYWHERE.
Instead, use the contact form at allpar.com.
Thank you.
- - - - - - - - - - - -
DISCLAIMER:
The author and contributors assume no
responsibility for errors or omissions, or for damages from the
use of the information. Some of the information is opinion.
The writers and the maintainer are not authorities. Any part of
this FAQ may be reproduced IF credit is given to
the writers and the maintainer; it is not published in any
form without the prior written permission of the maintainer;
the maintainer receives, without needing to ask, a
FREE copy of the final material; and no changes are made
without the permission of the maintainer.
The maintainer, David Zatz, works at http://www.toolpack.com/
- - - - - - - - - - - -

PART IV - Engines: Idling, power, stalling, mileage; transmissions

There is a separate Neon FAQ.

Also see:

Part 3 - Classic cars
Part 5 - Funny noises, oil leaks, temperature stuff
Part 6 - Other stuff

* Many problems are caused by poor battery connections to the cables,
which can cause signals to the computer to be incorrect. Check and clean
the battery terminals and cables first!

* If your antifreeze was just changed and your car started to overheat,
purge the system of air bubbles.

* Additional information on troubleshooting and repairs is on
the web site at http://www.allpar.com/

** Index **

Note: there are *several* entries for some problems. Try using the "search"
or "find" feature of your word processor, or browse through the entries.

We have eliminated some relatively uncommon entries.

1. Stall/hesitation/sag
2. Idle speed jumps OR Intermittent idle speed problems (2.2/2.5)
*** (see also #28 and other items)
3. Transmission noise: when shifting/stopping, buzzng/ratcheting
4. Cold / freezing weather problems
5. Power drops dramatically (engines with carb - esp 2.6)
/ icing of carburetor and other parts
6. Magnum V-6 engine problems
7. Power drop, black smoke, 2.6 liter
8. TBI engine hesitation (2.2/2.5)
9. 3.9 liter (pre-1993) common problem - PREVENT IT
10. Jeep 4.0 stalling
11. Power loss or gas mileage loss (2.2 / 2.5 engines)
12. Mitsubishi 2.6 cold start / drivability

1. Stall, hesitation, or sag

See http://www.allpar.com/fix/ for full diagnostics

------------------------------------------------------------------------
2. Transmission noise: when shifting/stopping, buzzng/ratcheting

Chrysler four-speed automatic transmissions tend to make a
buzzing/ratcheting noise when shifting gears or pulling to a stop. This
noise is normal and comes from the solenoids. It is most noticeable from
outside the car. A continuous buzz or whine could indicate low fluid or a
bad pump, but a fair bit of noise is normal and you can find it, to one
degree or another, on anything from an Acclaim to a brand new Town &
Country.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
3. Fast idle on startup

(Bohdan Bodnar): This is normal for [some] Chrysler products.
The throttle body temperature sensor is used ONLY during hot
restarts; during a hot restart, it is the dominant temperature sensor for the
first 10 seconds only. So, if the engine runs funny for almost exactly 10
seconds during a hot restart, consider cleaning the contacts of that sensor.
------------------------------------------------------------------------

4. Cold weather problems

Glen Larche said a MAP relocation kit is available to prevent problems
in freezing temps (rough cold idle, stalling) for older 2.2 and 2.5 liter
four cylinder cars:
Kit for turbo vehicles- 4419402
Kit for EFI vehicles- 4419401
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
5. Power drops dramatically (engines with carb - esp 2.6)

In cold weather, some vehicles with the 2.6 liter 4-cylinder engine may
have severe power loss (e.g. after running about 20 minutes between 60 and
65 mph). If one steps on the gas, black smoke may come out of the tailpipe.
The solution (from Dave Witte): A de-icing kit to heat the intake air
enough to prevent freezing. SOME engines had this kit at the factory. The
kit is not expensive.
---
My manual shows that the 2.6 had a carb air heater. The tube that comes up
from the exhaust manifold, will be on the back side of the engine, and hard
to reach. When the engine is cold, make sure that the vacuum actuator in
the air horn leading to the air cleaner housing is working. In cold
weather, with the engine cold, it should redirect all of the air flow
through the stove on the exhaust manifold. (Jeff Wieland)
---
The problem was freezing of the carb. and the answer was to moved the hose
that feeds outside air to the air filter compartment and position it
somehwere to the rear of the engine. This prevents the outside cold air
from making its way over to the carb.(Ken)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------------
6. Magnum V-6 engine problems

Problem: 1992 Dakota 4x4 with Magnum V-6. Engine faltering badly
sometimes when cold, sometimes when hot. On cold starts, the engine
will sometimes act as though it's getting gas only at idle, won't
accelerate.
It will cough and sputter awhile, then "catch" and take off, running
fine from then on. Other times, it will "skip a beat or two" at speed,
under mild acceleration.

David Wright: Some Magnum engines came with "mis-phased" distributors,
causing intermittent missing.

Jerald Barker: Replace the back pressure transducer and EGR valve. The
Back Pressure Transducer lies next to the EGR valve just above the left
valve cover.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
7. Power drop, black smoke, 2.6 liter

>After running for about 20 minutes the power drops out to the point
>where I have to pull over. If I am in "Park or Neutral" and step on the
>gas pedal, black smoke comes from the tail pipe.

With 2.6L engined minivans ... the airflow goes right
over the carburetor ... freezing it solid. Seconfd you stop, engine
heat thaws it out (which is why you can stop, restart, and it seems a
lot better). I put a metal shield in front of the carburetor
to deflect wind around it and it worked. -- Jonathan N. Deitch
------------------------------------------------------------------------
8. TBI engine hesitation (2.2/2.5)

2.5 liter, TBI: Intermittent engine hesitation under high speed driving
ONLY or under moderately high speed and heavy acceleration. The problem
NEVER occurs during moderate driving or heavy acceleration at low to
moderate speeds.

The brass pin you see from the top of the injector -- they didn't make it a
tight enough fit.
Eventually the
pin begins to back out and the ECM keeps shortening the injector pulse
to compensate for the change in mixture. The process can take several
months before it produces symptoms. The pin
backs out to a point that the ECM can no longer compensate for and you
get driveability problems. (dotto)

First check fuel pressure, around 14.5 psi engine off (using DRB in
actuator test) I have seen the distributor pick-up unit on these
cut out intermittently. When the computer loses the signal from the
distributor, it shuts fuel/spark off. The Hall-effect plate tends to get
loose. One TSB
involves re-locating the MAP sensor from the logic module(right kick panel)
to the right strut
tower. EGR failures are also common. They sometimes get stuck
open and cause hesitation; try disconnecting the vacuum hose
from the EGR valve. The car will probably ping on acceleration, but
hesitation should cease. The valve is located on the driver's side end
of the exhaust manifold. You may have to remove the air cleaner
housing to see it. Faulty TPS sensor can cause this type of problem.
It may have a "dead spot" (Eric Eleazar)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
9. 3.9 liter (pre-1993) common problem - PREVENT IT

My 1992 Dakota 3.9L needed a new timing chain and gears
at 49,000 miles. This was originally diagnosed as "mis-phased"
distributer, and "fixed" to some degree.
....
According to one of the service managers, the 1992 Magnums had a
"single roller" roller chain. The 93+ engines have the more typical
double roller. This may be a common problem for the pre-93s.

The misfiring had been happening sometimes on upshifts, but worsened as
performance sagged. The misfiring occurs when the rotor gets enough out
of phase that the spark gets fed to the wrong cylinder. Ignition timing is
not changed by this
problem, valve timing *is*,
and distributer rotor "phase" is. Get it fixed SOON. (Ron Luse)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
10. Jeep 4.0 EFI engine stalls at a stop (Jeep 4.0 stalling).

The problem is the flywheel sensor. It is located by following the
wires from the along the firewall and along the bellhousing. These
sensors get worn out from debris and it also might be just the
wires going to it. I had the same problem and took it to a dealer
and they couldn't figure it out either. (Ken Talley)
--------------------------------------------
11. Power loss or gas mileage loss (2.2 / 2.5 engines)

Vaughn Smith's 2.5 was losing power and mileage. While replacing a burnt
rotor (one thing to look at), he took off the Hall effect sensor. He saw
that it read when each "vane" on the distributor shaft passed the pickup
point; the inner surface of the vane, though, was extremely dirty. He
replaced the rotor and cleaned the vane, and found that gas mileage and
power increased. He also found this problem on a 2.2 TBI and a 2.2 Turbo,
with some improvement in each case.
--------------------------------------------
12. Cold start/initial run problem - MMC 2.6

(Courtesy Marvin Stockman) The Mitsubishi 2.6's carburetor choke pulloff
tends to break; the only fix is a $700 replacement. I have made a twisted
loop (like a hangmans noose) of soft metal wire and place the noose section
around the stud that holds the air cleaner duct. I let the twisted straight
section hang down into the throat of the carburetor. I try to get the wire
as close to the wall of the carburetor as I can. This has the effect of
preventing the choke plate from closing completely, and eliminates any cold
running problem. It is important to use thin wire ( I used soft aluminum
wire) in order to keep the opening small, otherwise the initial idle is
very high. Another solution would be to drill a small hole in the choke
plate. During very cold weather, I pump the accelerator 4 to 5 times and
the car starts right up.
-------------------------------------------
For more, visit http://www.allpar.com/fix/