Snapped off an exhaust bolt

I was removing the nuts from two bolts where the exhaust pipe bolts onto
the exhaust header. I had used some WD40 on them and got one off with
no issues. I was loosening the other nut when I applied a little too
much pressure (but it wasn't a lot) when the bolt snapped on me. I was
going to replace the bolt and nut but realized that the bolts seem to
built into manifold itself. What's the best course of action to take
care of this problem? It is an 88 Wrangler.

-Will

blue wrench AKA oxy-acel torch
Do you have enough meat on the bolt to grab with Vise-Grip pliers?
I am not sure if a MAPP torch will get things hot enough or not.

wb wrote:
> I was removing the nuts from two bolts where the exhaust pipe bolts onto
> the exhaust header. I had used some WD40 on them and got one off with
> no issues. I was loosening the other nut when I applied a little too
> much pressure (but it wasn't a lot) when the bolt snapped on me. I was
> going to replace the bolt and nut but realized that the bolts seem to
> built into manifold itself. What's the best course of action to take
> care of this problem? It is an 88 Wrangler.
>
> -Will

Get the torch out and heat that sucker up red hot. Be VERY careful with the
torch. You don't want a red hot bolt falling on you. It never fails to fall
into your shirt and to a place that's very hard to remove. Add this to you
squirming around below your jeep which is probably on jack stands. Bad
combinaton.

If you've got enough meat to grab, try vice grips. Otherwise, get some left
hand (reverse) drill bits and start drilling in reverse. Torch it as needed
to keep it red hot or real hot. If it doesn't back out by the time you are
halfway through the bolt, try an EZ-out.

Use a center punch to start your drilling so you don't drill booger up the
threads. If there is some sticking bolt sticking out, but not enough to
grab, try to grind it as flat as you can, this will make drilling much
easier. Use a bit just a little bit smaller than the bolt and once you drill
all the way through you should be able to collapse it.

Let us know what you try and what works for you.

HTH

Carl


"wb" > wrote in message
t...
>I was removing the nuts from two bolts where the exhaust pipe bolts onto
>the exhaust header. I had used some WD40 on them and got one off with no
>issues. I was loosening the other nut when I applied a little too much
>pressure (but it wasn't a lot) when the bolt snapped on me. I was going to
>replace the bolt and nut but realized that the bolts seem to built into
>manifold itself. What's the best course of action to take care of this
>problem? It is an 88 Wrangler.
>
> -Will

Next time use a GOOD lubricant like Kroil or BP blaster. WD-40 is a
water displacing solvent that has little effect of tough rust.

For this time, I'd hit it with the Kroil or PB, let it sit for at least
10 minutes, heat it up some, more PB, let the pentrant soak in. Grab
with vice grips. Drilling out is a very last resort. The bolts have been
temp cycled so many times they are hard as files. (and just as brittle,
that's why it snapped). Grind the head as flat as possible, center
punch, drill with a LEFT HANDED drill (if possible other wise a right
handed one), lots of pressure, very slow speed (250 rpm is about right).
You may need a couple of different sizes, drill until you hit the wall
on one side, pick out the pieces. Miserable job when working upside down.

wb wrote:

> I was removing the nuts from two bolts where the exhaust pipe bolts onto
> the exhaust header. I had used some WD40 on them and got one off with
> no issues. I was loosening the other nut when I applied a little too
> much pressure (but it wasn't a lot) when the bolt snapped on me. I was
> going to replace the bolt and nut but realized that the bolts seem to
> built into manifold itself. What's the best course of action to take
> care of this problem? It is an 88 Wrangler.
>
> -Will

RoyJ wrote:
> Next time use a GOOD lubricant like Kroil or BP blaster. WD-40 is a
> water displacing solvent that has little effect of tough rust.
>
> For this time, I'd hit it with the Kroil or PB, let it sit for at least
> 10 minutes, heat it up some, more PB, let the pentrant soak in. Grab
> with vice grips. Drilling out is a very last resort. The bolts have been
> temp cycled so many times they are hard as files. (and just as brittle,
> that's why it snapped). Grind the head as flat as possible, center
> punch, drill with a LEFT HANDED drill (if possible other wise a right
> handed one), lots of pressure, very slow speed (250 rpm is about right).
> You may need a couple of different sizes, drill until you hit the wall
> on one side, pick out the pieces. Miserable job when working upside down.
>
> wb wrote:
>
>> I was removing the nuts from two bolts where the exhaust pipe bolts
>> onto the exhaust header. I had used some WD40 on them and got one off
>> with no issues. I was loosening the other nut when I applied a little
>> too much pressure (but it wasn't a lot) when the bolt snapped on me.
>> I was going to replace the bolt and nut but realized that the bolts
>> seem to built into manifold itself. What's the best course of action
>> to take care of this problem? It is an 88 Wrangler.
>>
>> -Will

Yeah, I realized the WD40 is not the best for rust. I actually have
plenty of bolt left to grab on to, but not enough that it is still
usable. It snapped, with a little less than half remaining. Should I
be able to unscrew it from the manifold fitting, assuming I get it hot
enough and soak it enough with the right kind of lubricant? Do I
replace it with a headless bolt (do they have a proper term for these),
screwed in from underneath?

Thanks

"wb" wrote...

> Yeah, I realized the WD40 is not the best for rust. I actually have plenty of bolt left to grab on to, but not enough that it is
> still usable. It snapped, with a little less than half remaining. Should I be able to unscrew it from the manifold fitting,
> assuming I get it hot enough and soak it enough with the right kind of lubricant? Do I replace it with a headless bolt (do they
> have a proper term for these), screwed in from underneath?

The term your looking for is "stud".

Apply PB blaster, tap lightly with a hammer, wait half
an hour, put on some more pb blaster, tap again, then
use some vice grips to turn it out.

--
DougW

"DougW" > wrote in message
...
>
> "wb" wrote...
>
> > Yeah, I realized the WD40 is not the best for rust. I actually
> > have plenty of bolt left to grab on to, but not enough that it is
> > still usable. It snapped, with a little less than half remaining.
> > Should I be able to unscrew it from the manifold fitting,
> > assuming I get it hot enough and soak it enough with the right
> > kind of lubricant? Do I replace it with a headless bolt (do they
> > have a proper term for these), screwed in from underneath?
>
> The term your looking for is "stud".

Studs are good for this. If they weld themselves to the manifold or
whatever they are screwed into, it's a good thing. You can put some
anti-seize or thread locker on them first, but it will burn off and the stud
will rust in place eventually.

Earle

>
> Apply PB blaster, tap lightly with a hammer, wait half
> an hour, put on some more pb blaster, tap again, then
> use some vice grips to turn it out.
>
> --
> DougW
>
>
>

The torch is your best friend in this situation.

Carl

"wb" > wrote in message
et...
> RoyJ wrote:
>> Next time use a GOOD lubricant like Kroil or BP blaster. WD-40 is a water
>> displacing solvent that has little effect of tough rust.
>>
>> For this time, I'd hit it with the Kroil or PB, let it sit for at least
>> 10 minutes, heat it up some, more PB, let the pentrant soak in. Grab with
>> vice grips. Drilling out is a very last resort. The bolts have been temp
>> cycled so many times they are hard as files. (and just as brittle, that's
>> why it snapped). Grind the head as flat as possible, center punch, drill
>> with a LEFT HANDED drill (if possible other wise a right handed one),
>> lots of pressure, very slow speed (250 rpm is about right). You may need
>> a couple of different sizes, drill until you hit the wall on one side,
>> pick out the pieces. Miserable job when working upside down.
>>
>> wb wrote:
>>
>>> I was removing the nuts from two bolts where the exhaust pipe bolts onto
>>> the exhaust header. I had used some WD40 on them and got one off with
>>> no issues. I was loosening the other nut when I applied a little too
>>> much pressure (but it wasn't a lot) when the bolt snapped on me. I was
>>> going to replace the bolt and nut but realized that the bolts seem to
>>> built into manifold itself. What's the best course of action to take
>>> care of this problem? It is an 88 Wrangler.
>>>
>>> -Will
>
> Yeah, I realized the WD40 is not the best for rust. I actually have
> plenty of bolt left to grab on to, but not enough that it is still usable.
> It snapped, with a little less than half remaining. Should I be able to
> unscrew it from the manifold fitting, assuming I get it hot enough and
> soak it enough with the right kind of lubricant? Do I replace it with a
> headless bolt (do they have a proper term for these), screwed in from
> underneath?
>
> Thanks

Lots of penetrant, judious heat, tap tap, more penetrant, repeat over
several days. Get a brand new Vice Grip (by brand, no import junk!) and
give it a go. I've had one come out with a major screech on the second
day of swearing at it. Good luck.

Replace with a suitable stud from dealer or NAPA. It would be a good
idea to run a suitable tap into the hole to clean out the crud first. I
expect it will be a 3/8"-16 NC thread.

wb wrote:
> RoyJ wrote:
>
>> Next time use a GOOD lubricant like Kroil or BP blaster. WD-40 is a
>> water displacing solvent that has little effect of tough rust.
>>
>> For this time, I'd hit it with the Kroil or PB, let it sit for at
>> least 10 minutes, heat it up some, more PB, let the pentrant soak in.
>> Grab with vice grips. Drilling out is a very last resort. The bolts
>> have been temp cycled so many times they are hard as files. (and just
>> as brittle, that's why it snapped). Grind the head as flat as
>> possible, center punch, drill with a LEFT HANDED drill (if possible
>> other wise a right handed one), lots of pressure, very slow speed (250
>> rpm is about right). You may need a couple of different sizes, drill
>> until you hit the wall on one side, pick out the pieces. Miserable job
>> when working upside down.
>>
>> wb wrote:
>>
>>> I was removing the nuts from two bolts where the exhaust pipe bolts
>>> onto the exhaust header. I had used some WD40 on them and got one
>>> off with no issues. I was loosening the other nut when I applied a
>>> little too much pressure (but it wasn't a lot) when the bolt snapped
>>> on me. I was going to replace the bolt and nut but realized that the
>>> bolts seem to built into manifold itself. What's the best course of
>>> action to take care of this problem? It is an 88 Wrangler.
>>>
>>> -Will
>
>
> Yeah, I realized the WD40 is not the best for rust. I actually have
> plenty of bolt left to grab on to, but not enough that it is still
> usable. It snapped, with a little less than half remaining. Should I
> be able to unscrew it from the manifold fitting, assuming I get it hot
> enough and soak it enough with the right kind of lubricant? Do I
> replace it with a headless bolt (do they have a proper term for these),
> screwed in from underneath?
>
> Thanks

Having just been through something like this myself (Dec 27 posting entitled
"Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads..."), here's my
$0.02 CAD.

1) After a bunch of futzing around with Eazy-Outs, stud extractors, PB,
vice grips, etc, the solution for my bolts was to drill them out. If you're
going to drill them out, DON'T use the package of 10 for $5 el-cheapo
Titanium coated drill bits. Get down to a real hardware store, and get some
good cobalt bits. If you use cheap bits and break one of them off in the
bolt, it makes life ever so much more fun. I ended up picking up some
Dewalt (http://www.houseoftools.com/product.htm?pid=479127), at about
$4/bit. Oh yeah, and get some cutting oil to squirt in there now and again.
And pick up a tap-and-die set, in case you have to clean up the threads, or
drill it out one size bigger and re-tap it.

2) Use just about the largest bit you feel comfortable with. Smaller bits
will break off, and see the last sentence of point 1.

3) Take your time and come back to the group if you get stuck. Great help
here.

Clint, who spent a good chunk of his Christmas holidays trying to get two
bolts out of his engine block because he was worried about drilling them
out.

"wb" > wrote in message
t...
>I was removing the nuts from two bolts where the exhaust pipe bolts onto
>the exhaust header. I had used some WD40 on them and got one off with no
>issues. I was loosening the other nut when I applied a little too much
>pressure (but it wasn't a lot) when the bolt snapped on me. I was going to
>replace the bolt and nut but realized that the bolts seem to built into
>manifold itself. What's the best course of action to take care of this
>problem? It is an 88 Wrangler.
>
> -Will