Lubricating the doors

Getting resistance while opening door. Should I use Lithium grease?

"Gary" > wrote in message
news:Em2zj.748$x93.726@trndny03...
> Getting resistance while opening door. Should I use Lithium grease?
>
>

Not if there's someone inside trying to keep you out.

"Frank Berger" > wrote in message
...

> Not if there's someone inside trying to keep you out.
>
>

1991 Miata

What is the recommended product and procedure for lubricating the Miata
doors which is making a noise when I open them.

You would think this would be easy but just do some Google searches and you
get a wide range of opinion. From WD-40, which some people rave about and
others claim will ruin your door hinges.

I would like a two step recommendation:

(1) Clean the current hinges of any contaminants that are there.

(2) Apply a lubricant, what ever that may be.

Thanks,

Gary

> I would like a two step recommendation:
>
> (1) Clean the current hinges of any contaminants that are there.
>
> (2) Apply a lubricant, what ever that may be.

A pal of mine likes to remind people "WD40 is a solvent, not a lubricant".
As such, it might be a nice step 1 to help clean the hinge. I know it cleans
grungy areas of my cycle well.

For step 2, I've used "no-flyoff" motorcycle chain lube. It sprays on,
penetrates, and then kind of gels. Otherwise some kind of lock lube with
graphite in it might be nice.

I knew a secretary whose typewriter was squeaking on certain keys, and they
asked maintenance what to lube it with... the guy opened the cover and a
mouse ran out... really!

miker

On Thu, 6 Mar 2008 13:53:06 -0600, "miker"
> wrote:

>> I would like a two step recommendation:
>>
>> (1) Clean the current hinges of any contaminants that are there.
>>
>> (2) Apply a lubricant, what ever that may be.
>
>A pal of mine likes to remind people "WD40 is a solvent, not a lubricant".
>As such, it might be a nice step 1 to help clean the hinge. I know it cleans
>grungy areas of my cycle well.

Spray some WD40 in a clean glass bowl. After the solvent evaporates,
examine the slippery greasy film that remains and have your friend
explain how it's not a lubricant.

However the LAST thing I want is to start yet ANOTHER "WD-40 is the
Devil's spittle" thread.
>
>For step 2, I've used "no-flyoff" motorcycle chain lube. It sprays on,
>penetrates, and then kind of gels. Otherwise some kind of lock lube with
>graphite in it might be nice.
>
A lube that penetrates, the thickens into a grease is what's called
for. Motorcycle chain lube is an excellent choice. So is LPS-3

http://www.lpslabs.com/Products/CorrosionInh/Lps3.asp

It is marketed for its superb anti-corrosion properites, but I've used
in on motorcycle chains as a lubricant with excellent results.

Natman > wrote:

> However the LAST thing I want is to start yet ANOTHER "WD-40 is
> the Devil's spittle" thread.

Too late, are you going to start a natural vs synthetic thread also?
<GD&R>




--
XS11E, Killing all posts from Google Groups
The Usenet Improvement Project:
http://improve-usenet.org

On Fri, 07 Mar 2008 13:19:59 -0700, XS11E >
wrote:

>Natman > wrote:
>
>> However the LAST thing I want is to start yet ANOTHER "WD-40 is
>> the Devil's spittle" thread.
>
>Too late, are you going to start a natural vs synthetic thread also?
><GD&R>
Nope.

;>)

In article >,
Natman > wrote:

> >Too late, are you going to start a natural vs synthetic thread also?
> ><GD&R>
> Nope.

Chicken. :-)

Unborn sperm whale oil is best.

--
Lanny Chambers
St. Louis, MO
'94C

"Natman" > wrote in message
...
> On Thu, 6 Mar 2008 13:53:06 -0600, "miker"
> > wrote:
> A lube that penetrates, the thickens into a grease is what's called
> for. Motorcycle chain lube is an excellent choice. So is LPS-3
>
> http://www.lpslabs.com/Products/CorrosionInh/Lps3.asp
>
> It is marketed for its superb anti-corrosion properites, but I've used
> in on motorcycle chains as a lubricant with excellent results.


I couldn't find the recommended LPS product but I picked up something called
PB Blaster, which is supposed to be a penetrating catalyst and recommended
by Auto Zone. I found out later that its not really a lubricant but they
have another spray called PB-50 that is a lubricant which I should have
bought. PB Blaster is an orange consociation and seems to dry up with no
perceivable lubricant coating the cup. I will not use that on my Miata. Its
really a WD-40 competitor, I am told.

So I went down to this huge Harley Davidson store and its really huge. I
grabbed something called Lube Plus. I looked at it in a cup and there is
real lubricant along the sides of the cup. It has the consistency of WD-40
in the cup but more lubricant. I think I will go with it unless I get a
thumbs down here.

http://tinyurl.com/2hvz6d

In article <hjiCj.7432$Y33.5323@trndny07>,
"Gary" > wrote:

> So I went down to this huge Harley Davidson store and its really huge. I
> grabbed something called Lube Plus. I looked at it in a cup and there is
> real lubricant along the sides of the cup. It has the consistency of WD-40
> in the cup but more lubricant. I think I will go with it unless I get a
> thumbs down here.

Dirt bike shops sell waterproof synthetic chainlube that squirts thin,
penetrates, then sets up to thick grease. Nearly 30 years ago, the best
brand was PJ-1. I still have a can, and guess where I use it?

--
Lanny Chambers
St. Louis, MO
'94C