CV boot replacement

Peabody > wrote in news:m0Ghh.19222$FJ4.11226
@newsfe18.lga:

> I got new tires today for my 94 Accord at Hesselbein Tires, and they
> found that the outer CV boot on the right side is torn. I confirmed
> that when I got home. The left looks ok. The car has 53K miles on
> it.
>
> They want about $100 to fix it, and would use an aftermarket boot.
>
> I've tried turning sharply in both directions, listening for strange
> noises, and don't hear or feel anything strange. So I'm gonna
> assume the axle is ok and just get the one boot replaced.




If the joints are OEM it is definitely worth just replacing the boot -- IF
the joint is still OK. You need to have an *experienced* mechanic listen
for clicking from the joint.

And even if the joint passes the listen-test, it will still need to be
inspected thoroughly once disassembled and cleaned to make sure the balls
and races are not chipped or dented in any way.

If the joint is OEM and passes both inspections, replace BOTH boots with
NEW OEM, NOT aftermarket! New OEM is more expensive, but the new OEM boots
last well over ten years, and your OEM joints will outlast them. And if one
side is torn now, it's a sure bet the other won't be far behind.

If your current joints are aftermarket, then just rpleace the whole shaft,
like Elle says. It's going to be a lot less trouble. Just remember to let a
bit of air into the inner joint boot after shaft installation, so the
rubber doesn't stay puckered. Puckered boots will break within a thousand
miles.

People, I'll say it again: Inspect your CV joint boots! Catch them early
and you can save that very expesive, high-quality joint! Honda OEM joints
will last the life of the car if the boots are never allowed to split. New
OEM boots last well over ten years.



--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

"Peabody" > wrote in message
...
>
> What about the inner boots? Do they not usually fail as
> fast? The mechanic didn't say anything about them, and I
> don't think I can see them.
>
>

They don't usually fail *first* because they don't get the amount of flexing
the outer boots do. They are exposed to the same environment as the outer
boots, though, and I actually had an axle where the inner boot failed.
Obviously, the boots are changed when either fails, so we rarely know how
much longer the inner boots would go... we only know the first to fail.

Mike

Peabody wrote:
>
> Tegger says...
>
> > If the joints are OEM it is definitely worth just
> > replacing the boot -- IF the joint is still OK. You need
> > to have an *experienced* mechanic listen for clicking
> > from the joint.
>
> > And even if the joint passes the listen-test, it will
> > still need to be inspected thoroughly once disassembled
> > and cleaned to make sure the balls and races are not
> > chipped or dented in any way.
>
> Yes, this is all OEM. The car is 12 years old, but only
> has 53K miles on it. I'm just now replacing the original
> tires and front brakes.
>
> > If the joint is OEM and passes both inspections, replace
> > BOTH boots with NEW OEM, NOT aftermarket! New OEM is
> > more expensive, but the new OEM boots last well over ten
> > years, and your OEM joints will outlast them. And if one
> > side is torn now, it's a sure bet the other won't be far
> > behind.
>
> What about the inner boots? Do they not usually fail as
> fast? The mechanic didn't say anything about them, and I
> don't think I can see them.


Inner boots generally last longer simply because they are not subject to
the flexing that the outers endure.

Still, while the half shaft is out of the vehicle it's just as easy to
replace both and be done with it. And as Tegger said, use OEM as the
other rubber out there is pretty chincy and will begin to crack within a
couple of years.

JT

Peabody > wrote in news:1iHhh.2500$RJ.1916
@newsfe17.lga:

> Tegger says...
>
> > If the joints are OEM it is definitely worth just
> > replacing the boot -- IF the joint is still OK. You need
> > to have an *experienced* mechanic listen for clicking
> > from the joint.
>
> > And even if the joint passes the listen-test, it will
> > still need to be inspected thoroughly once disassembled
> > and cleaned to make sure the balls and races are not
> > chipped or dented in any way.
>
> Yes, this is all OEM. The car is 12 years old, but only
> has 53K miles on it. I'm just now replacing the original
> tires and front brakes.
>
> > If the joint is OEM and passes both inspections, replace
> > BOTH boots with NEW OEM, NOT aftermarket! New OEM is
> > more expensive, but the new OEM boots last well over ten
> > years, and your OEM joints will outlast them. And if one
> > side is torn now, it's a sure bet the other won't be far
> > behind.
>
> What about the inner boots? Do they not usually fail as
> fast? The mechanic didn't say anything about them, and I
> don't think I can see them.
>
>
>



The inner boots will outlast the outers by several times. The inner boots
don't undergo the steering stresses that kill the outer boots. It's not a
boad idea to repack the inners with grease once every ten years, though.

If your OEM outer joints are still good, it would be *very* wise of you to
retain them, with new OEM boots (about $40 each, plus the bands and
grease). OEM CV joints are exceedingly high-quality.

The new OEM boots will last a dozen years easily, so this may be the last
you'll ever have to be concerned about the driveshafts.

--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

I agree with all posts here. Don't waste your time with the "clam
shell" aftermarket boots. They never stay on and dirt gets in anyway.
Replacing the half-shaft, if necessary, is not that expensive, time
consuming, or difficult.

As a life prolonging tip, I now spray the boots liberally with silicone
spray every few thousand miles (usually when I am under the car doing
oil changes). It only takes a few seconds and anything to keep them
soft and flexible, and prevent them from drying out will help.

--Jeff


Tegger wrote:
> Peabody > wrote in news:1iHhh.2500$RJ.1916
> @newsfe17.lga:
>
> > Tegger says...
> >
> > > If the joints are OEM it is definitely worth just
> > > replacing the boot -- IF the joint is still OK. You need
> > > to have an *experienced* mechanic listen for clicking
> > > from the joint.
> >
> > > And even if the joint passes the listen-test, it will
> > > still need to be inspected thoroughly once disassembled
> > > and cleaned to make sure the balls and races are not
> > > chipped or dented in any way.
> >
> > Yes, this is all OEM. The car is 12 years old, but only
> > has 53K miles on it. I'm just now replacing the original
> > tires and front brakes.
> >
> > > If the joint is OEM and passes both inspections, replace
> > > BOTH boots with NEW OEM, NOT aftermarket! New OEM is
> > > more expensive, but the new OEM boots last well over ten
> > > years, and your OEM joints will outlast them. And if one
> > > side is torn now, it's a sure bet the other won't be far
> > > behind.
> >
> > What about the inner boots? Do they not usually fail as
> > fast? The mechanic didn't say anything about them, and I
> > don't think I can see them.
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> The inner boots will outlast the outers by several times. The inner boots
> don't undergo the steering stresses that kill the outer boots. It's not a
> boad idea to repack the inners with grease once every ten years, though.
>
> If your OEM outer joints are still good, it would be *very* wise of you to
> retain them, with new OEM boots (about $40 each, plus the bands and
> grease). OEM CV joints are exceedingly high-quality.
>
> The new OEM boots will last a dozen years easily, so this may be the last
> you'll ever have to be concerned about the driveshafts.
>
> --
> Tegger
>
> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
> www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

Jeff, exactly what silicone spray do you use? And what is
the year, miles, and CV boot history one the car on which
you use this?

If others concur, I think I would like to try this.

TIA

> wrote .
> As a life prolonging tip, I now spray the boots liberally
> with silicone
> spray every few thousand miles (usually when I am under
> the car doing
> oil changes). It only takes a few seconds and anything to
> keep them
> soft and flexible, and prevent them from drying out will
> help.
>
> --Jeff

I tried the silicone spray with the '96 Odyssey, exactly as you suggest at
every oil change. It made absolutely no difference in the longevity of the
CV boots. They failed at about 8 years and 120,000 miles just like every
other Honda and Nissan I have owned.

There is anecdotal evidence, especially with the Nissans, that
prophylactically replacing the half shafts when the joints are still good
can reward you with an unbalanced axle. It is not a given that just because
the boots are torn that the joints are automatically bad. It depends on how
long they've been torn and what sort of driving has been done while they
were torn. If you caught it soon after the tear happened, and it hasn't
been submerged in water or slush or pounded with dirt roads, most likely the
joint is still good. I have never replaced a boot until it tore, and have
never had a joint subsequently fail. The mechanics like to replace the
whole axle because its less work than doing the boot, not because its
better.



On 12/19/06 9:28 AM, in article
, "
> wrote:

> I agree with all posts here. Don't waste your time with the "clam
> shell" aftermarket boots. They never stay on and dirt gets in anyway.
> Replacing the half-shaft, if necessary, is not that expensive, time
> consuming, or difficult.
>
> As a life prolonging tip, I now spray the boots liberally with silicone
> spray every few thousand miles (usually when I am under the car doing
> oil changes). It only takes a few seconds and anything to keep them
> soft and flexible, and prevent them from drying out will help.
>
> --Jeff
>
>
> Tegger wrote:
>> Peabody > wrote in news:1iHhh.2500$RJ.1916
>> @newsfe17.lga:
>>
>>> Tegger says...
>>>
>>>> If the joints are OEM it is definitely worth just
>>>> replacing the boot -- IF the joint is still OK. You need
>>>> to have an *experienced* mechanic listen for clicking
>>>> from the joint.
>>>
>>>> And even if the joint passes the listen-test, it will
>>>> still need to be inspected thoroughly once disassembled
>>>> and cleaned to make sure the balls and races are not
>>>> chipped or dented in any way.
>>>
>>> Yes, this is all OEM. The car is 12 years old, but only
>>> has 53K miles on it. I'm just now replacing the original
>>> tires and front brakes.
>>>
>>>> If the joint is OEM and passes both inspections, replace
>>>> BOTH boots with NEW OEM, NOT aftermarket! New OEM is
>>>> more expensive, but the new OEM boots last well over ten
>>>> years, and your OEM joints will outlast them. And if one
>>>> side is torn now, it's a sure bet the other won't be far
>>>> behind.
>>>
>>> What about the inner boots? Do they not usually fail as
>>> fast? The mechanic didn't say anything about them, and I
>>> don't think I can see them.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> The inner boots will outlast the outers by several times. The inner boots
>> don't undergo the steering stresses that kill the outer boots. It's not a
>> boad idea to repack the inners with grease once every ten years, though.
>>
>> If your OEM outer joints are still good, it would be *very* wise of you to
>> retain them, with new OEM boots (about $40 each, plus the bands and
>> grease). OEM CV joints are exceedingly high-quality.
>>
>> The new OEM boots will last a dozen years easily, so this may be the last
>> you'll ever have to be concerned about the driveshafts.
>>
>> --
>> Tegger
>>
>> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
>> www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
>

I have no documented proof that the boots last longer with silicone
than without. But since a can cost $3.50 and its pennies to spray them
whenever I'm under the car anyway, I figure...why not. Anything that
keeps them from getting dry and brittle can only help.

And I agree with E Meyer that if you replace the boot soon after its
torn (assuming you know when it happened!), there is no reason to
replace the shaft. But unforunately for me, I find out the boot is
ripped when I hear that nasty "click click click" when making a turn.
At that point, its too late.

--Jeff


E Meyer wrote:
> I tried the silicone spray with the '96 Odyssey, exactly as you suggest at
> every oil change. It made absolutely no difference in the longevity of the
> CV boots. They failed at about 8 years and 120,000 miles just like every
> other Honda and Nissan I have owned.
>
> There is anecdotal evidence, especially with the Nissans, that
> prophylactically replacing the half shafts when the joints are still good
> can reward you with an unbalanced axle. It is not a given that just because
> the boots are torn that the joints are automatically bad. It depends on how
> long they've been torn and what sort of driving has been done while they
> were torn. If you caught it soon after the tear happened, and it hasn't
> been submerged in water or slush or pounded with dirt roads, most likely the
> joint is still good. I have never replaced a boot until it tore, and have
> never had a joint subsequently fail. The mechanics like to replace the
> whole axle because its less work than doing the boot, not because its
> better.
>
>
>
> On 12/19/06 9:28 AM, in article
> , "
> > wrote:
>
> > I agree with all posts here. Don't waste your time with the "clam
> > shell" aftermarket boots. They never stay on and dirt gets in anyway.
> > Replacing the half-shaft, if necessary, is not that expensive, time
> > consuming, or difficult.
> >
> > As a life prolonging tip, I now spray the boots liberally with silicone
> > spray every few thousand miles (usually when I am under the car doing
> > oil changes). It only takes a few seconds and anything to keep them
> > soft and flexible, and prevent them from drying out will help.
> >
> > --Jeff
> >

wrote in
ups.com:

> I have no documented proof that the boots last longer with silicone
> than without. But since a can cost $3.50 and its pennies to spray
> them whenever I'm under the car anyway, I figure...why not. Anything
> that keeps them from getting dry and brittle can only help.
>
> And I agree with E Meyer that if you replace the boot soon after its
> torn (assuming you know when it happened!), there is no reason to
> replace the shaft. But unforunately for me, I find out the boot is
> ripped when I hear that nasty "click click click" when making a turn.
> At that point, its too late.
>



Considering it's trivially easy to check the boot without even getting down
on your knees, and considering it takes two years for OEM boots to split
after the first signs of cracking, it's foolish and lazy to allow the boots
to split in the first place.



--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

Peabody > wrote in news9iih.12143$a14.7726
@newsfe24.lga:

> Tegger says...
>
> > If your OEM outer joints are still good, it would be
> > *very* wise of you to retain them, with new OEM boots
> > (about $40 each, plus the bands and grease). OEM CV
> > joints are exceedingly high-quality.
>
> Are Honda replacement axles/joints the same high quality?
> So, if it turns out that some crud did get in there, and the
> joints fail in the future, would it make sense to insist on
> using Honda replacement parts?
>
>



If you can get official Honda reman driveshafts from a Honda dealer,
GO FOR IT.

There is nothing better on the market. Trust me on that.

--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/