Connecting an '86 5.0L to a '65 T10 transmission

"Ironradio" > wrote in message
om...
>> Good luck. If you decide to go T5, there will be many more parts
>> available.
>> You may need to do some custom work to get the cable setup to work...
>>
>> JS
>
> Well, custom work's what its all about. ;-)
>
> This is for my '27 Tbucket after all...
>
> Well, I've had enough indigestion wondering if this will fit to that
> and am dumping all of the '60s stuff right up to the block and crank
> (including the '28oz flywheel) I'm going with a period correct setup
> for the '86 engine. I have an '87 block plate, 50 oz SFI flywheel,
> clutch kit, bell housing, clutch mech, and T5 coming. It's worth it
> all just for the T5 in my opinion which, among many other benefits,
> has a real first gear as opposed to the T10. I realize I'll have a
> littlle work to do in the T5 mount department but that's OK.
>
> But like JS said above, I now have the 'opportunity' to figure out the
> cable arrangement. I have seen photos of the cable, firewall adjuster
> and quadrant but not one with them all together with how the clutch
> cable mechanics are supposed to work. Can anyone steer me to a diagram
> or photo?

Good luck with your setup. While I don't have pics, I can kinda
describe.... I don't know if you'll want to use a quadrant or not.

On the late model cars, the clutch pedal is attached to a shaft that runs to
the right of the gas pedal. It is on this shaft that the quadrant is
installed. The quadrant pulls on the cable. The bellhousing is set up with
the pivot stud on the end of the fork opposite the cable, so that the cable
pulls the throwout bearing. The routing doesn't matter too much - think big
bicycle cable - but definately keep it away from the exhaust system and off
of anything hot... they don't last long that way. ;-) I'd shy away from
the firewall adjuster in your situation - get the adjustable cable and the
firewall adjuster isn't necessary. It would probably also take away from
the looks of the engine compartment.

I don't know if you can get away with using the (modified) clutch pedal
itself to pull the cable - I don't know what your setup is. I also don't
know the exact length of pull that's required. When the bell, fork, and
stud come in, you should be able to guesstimate.

Also check shifter placement between the T10 and T-5 to see if they'll end
up coming up in the same transmission tunnel hole. There is an option to
get a '94-95 bellhousing and T-5 if the shifter ends up too far forward.
The '94-95 cars had a longer input shaft and deeper bell to accomidate the
change to the body. If the shifter's too far rearward, you'll have to do
some more creative thinking. Something tells me it should be close though.

JS

GEB wrote:

If I remember correctly, the bolt pattern on the crankshaft is the
same
for all SB V8's. The bolt pattern to mate the bell housing to the
block
is the same as well. The early 289's used a 5 bolt configuration for
the
bell housing, and switched to a 6 bolt in 66. I have an 84 302 with a
60's C4 mated to it, with no issues. I even have one of those small
high
torque starters, that has the selinoid on the starter bolted to it,
and
it works great.

I think in his case, he should use the flywheel, pressure plate, bell
housing, and throw out bearing for the 86, and the clutch disk and
pilot
bushing for the manual tranny of his choice. There should be no
problem
bolting the early manual tranny to the 86 bell housing.

Gary

The early transmission wont bolt up to a 84-93 5.0 bellhousing, the
79-83-1/2 5.0 SROD bellhousing (commonly used for tremec 5 speed
swaps) has the older bolt pattern and is identical to the 84-93 except
for the trans bolt pattern, the block plate is the same from 79-93.