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#11
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> wrote in message ups.com... > Hi, I recently have my 96 Saturn(80k mileage) changed oil in Firestone. > > And they did a free check on it, the report recommends: > 1. 755K5 Poly-rib belt, remove/replace, Part cost $31.99, Labor $50 About $20 at the dealer. Firestone is trying to rip you off. Replacement: Jack up right front. Remove wheel. Remove plastic splash guards. Use a 14 mm wrench to turn tensioner clockwise and remove tension from old belt. Remove old belt. Put new belt in. Replace splash guards Replace wheel Lower car. It's about a 20 minute job with relatively simple tools. Use a jack stand to ensure that you don't drop the car on yourself. $50 is a rip-off for labor for that job. I don't know if the valve cover on a 96 is composite. If it is, buy the gasket kit at the dealer. Replacing that is about a 45 minute job. For $180, does Firestone throw in free KY jelly? > 2. Gaskets, VS50218 Valve Cover Gaskets Set, Part cost $64.24, Labor > $180 > > I think Gaskets change is due to some leakage issue(which is always > there). For the belt, is it critical? And can I change it by myself? > Can I buy the parts from Autozone? > > Any suggestion? I spent $600 couple of months back to solve the coil > issue which triggered the SES light. So I want to save cost on these > two issues. > > Thanks a lot! > |
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#12
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"Kirk Kohnen" > typed until their fingers bled,
and came up with: > > I don't know if the valve cover on a 96 is composite. it is. -- Visit the Saturn Performance Club - http://www.saturnperformanceclub.com |
#13
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Is there a motor mount in the middle of that belt somewhere? That's the only
thing I could possibly think of that may make it more difficult. I remember replacing an alternator but all I had to do was to pull it off the tensioner pulley (which is great, by the way, takes all of the thinking out of it). Anyway, even if there is a motor mount, I still don't think it'd be that difficult of a task. I replaced the valve cover gasket on my 1994 Saturn a few years back and I was initially a little nervous about it but looking back, I'd do it again. It's no big deal. Get a Haynes Manual for the Saturn. They're pretty handy for these tasks (it's something like $10). You can find them at most auto parts stores. Good luck. Brad |
#14
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"Simon" > wrote in message oups.com... > Yeah, Poly Rib is Serpentine, it is fan belt. Looks complex, I will ask > for service then. > Not really very complex. Remove the right front tire, take out the inner fender, hold the tensioner back, and replace the belt. Other than common tools, a belt routing diagram would be useful. Ken |
#15
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Anybody knows if Autozone may provide all these tools (incl. jack)?
Thinking of buy the belt/manual from dealer and go Autozone to fix the belt then. |
#16
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Autozone rents 'special' tools, such as ball joint presses, tubing benders,
things that even a well equiped tool box might not have. They have a tool which will pull back the spring tensioner when replacing the belt, but I found that a socket on a long breaker bar worked just fine. Autozone does not rent common tools such as wrenches or jacks. BTW, the rental is 'free'. Put down a deposit, and you get the deposit back when you return the tool. -David "Simon" > wrote in message oups.com... > Anybody knows if Autozone may provide all these tools (incl. jack)? > Thinking of buy the belt/manual from dealer and go Autozone to fix the > belt then. > |
#17
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> Get a Haynes Manual for the Saturn. They're pretty handy for these tasks > (it's something like $10). You can find them at most auto parts stores. > The Chilton manual is about twice as thick. I have both, use both, no clear-cut best. Get a second opinion as to belt service condition. A garage short of work will tell everyone they need a belt replacement. If you are inexperienced you can often be sold a belt you do not need and for more money than you should pay. Most serviceable belts show some cracking across the face of the Vs. You really need to remove the belt to do a proper inspection and to see how deep the cracking is. (at that point you may want to install a new belt because of labor involved) I have not yet changed the original factory belt on my 96 sw1 with 230,000km. If you replace the belt keep the old one in the spare tire for a spare. Make sure the new belt is not shorter than the old belt, as shorter will increase the tensioner loading on the alternator bearings. Some replacement belts are made longer to reduce the side loading and reduce alternator failure. I suspect there is a tension indicator on the tensioner. I tried several different belts trying to get the tension UP to what the indicator required on my Corvette, all the replacement belts were slightly longer. After finding a belt that got the indicated tension right I was happy for about two months until the alternator bearings failed. Replaced the alternator and used longer belt, end of problem, (8 yrs. ago). > I spent $600 couple of months back to solve the coil > issue which triggered the SES light. When my car had about 75,000km, I had an ses light and an OBDII code that the Saturn dealer said was a common problem that would require two new ignition spark coils for about $300ea. I checked the spark plug wires with an ohm meter and replaced one obvious bad one. I was advised to clean the plate under the coils (and engine block) and remount them with clean bolts using dielectric grease on all (ground and hot) connections. Cost about $35 (dielectric grease is expensive and I also installed new platinum spark plugs), end of problem (6 yrs ago). YMMV |
#18
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I had Jiffy Lube change my dual-cam belt out. Cost was $49.95 (incl. labor)
and they did it in less than 10 minutes. No need to dismantle anything it seemed. The valve cover gasket (aka a bead od expensive silicon on a sheet of cardboard) was around $65. I changed mine out at home in maybe less than an hour. Cleaning it all up was the hardest and most time consuming part. It also has the 4 silicon sparkplug gaskets which seem to be the biggest problem for leaks. B~ |
#19
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You should be able to do both yourself. IIRC the last belt I bought for my
95 SC2(which should be the same belt) was around $20 at NAPA. Its easiest to do if you jack it up and pull the right front wheel off and the splashguards, but it can be done with the car on the ground from the top(although its tough to get the new belt around the crank pulley doing it this way). Last I knew a valve cover gasket from Saturn for my 95(which is a different gasket then your 96 if you have the composite(black) valve cover) was like $32 and that's easily done by yourself. The big thing is to make sure both mating surfaces are clean. The gasket itself is really a joke, you can make your own if you want. Its just a preformed piece of RTV on a piece of cardboard. Jamie "B. Peg" > wrote in message ... >I had Jiffy Lube change my dual-cam belt out. Cost was $49.95 (incl. >labor) and they did it in less than 10 minutes. No need to dismantle >anything it seemed. > > The valve cover gasket (aka a bead od expensive silicon on a sheet of > cardboard) was around $65. I changed mine out at home in maybe less than > an hour. Cleaning it all up was the hardest and most time consuming part. > It also has the 4 silicon sparkplug gaskets which seem to be the biggest > problem for leaks. > > B~ > > |
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