Premature Ball Joint Failure

A couple years back I rebuilt my grandmas old '89 Honda Civic. She doesn't
drive anymore, and I rarely drive due to health problems, but my parents
have been use it quite often. A few days ago my Dad informed me that it
wasn't steering properly, and I noticed the front right wheel was visibly
out of camber. Once I got things apart, I discovered that the upper ball
joint, which I had newly replaced 2 1/2 years ago, was completely worn out -
no grease left at all, and the ball wobbling loosely in the socket. This
part has less than 25000 km wear on it, making me wonder what could have
gone wrong. There at two factors that I suspect may be involved, and since
my knowledge is limited I will leave you to ponder which is the most
feasible. First of all, the struts and springs on this car are badly worn
and the car rides very low, and of course does not give a very comfortable
ride on bumpy roads. I didn't replace them due to the extra time and cost,
figuring there was lots of time since the car was not used heavily. The
other factor is the ball joint boot cover. When I installed that control arm
/ ball joint, I removed the factory-supplied boot cover and installed a
Polyurethane one (from Prothane) instead. I noticed that the new boot did
not have a clip to retain it unlike the original, but figured it must be
safe or they wouldn't be selling them. I now wonder if the aftermarket boot
didn't seal properly, and allowed water / salt / etc. to get into the joint
and ruin it. I'm now suspicious of the lower ball joints and tie rods ends
as well, which I also covered with polyurethane boots, and am wondering if I
should also take those apart and examine for similar damage.
I should also mention that all of these components are aftermarket stuff I
bought online, as OEM was just too expensive.
I plan to replace both upper arms as a precaution, and use the
factory-supplied boot covers next time. What I need advice on now, is how to
prevent this premature failure from happening again.
Thanks for any advice.

Chris F. wrote:
> A couple years back I rebuilt my grandmas old '89 Honda Civic. She doesn't
> drive anymore, and I rarely drive due to health problems, but my parents
> have been use it quite often. A few days ago my Dad informed me that it
> wasn't steering properly, and I noticed the front right wheel was visibly
> out of camber. Once I got things apart, I discovered that the upper ball
> joint, which I had newly replaced 2 1/2 years ago, was completely worn out -
> no grease left at all, and the ball wobbling loosely in the socket. This
> part has less than 25000 km wear on it, making me wonder what could have
> gone wrong. There at two factors that I suspect may be involved, and since
> my knowledge is limited I will leave you to ponder which is the most
> feasible. First of all, the struts and springs on this car are badly worn
> and the car rides very low, and of course does not give a very comfortable
> ride on bumpy roads. I didn't replace them due to the extra time and cost,
> figuring there was lots of time since the car was not used heavily. The
> other factor is the ball joint boot cover. When I installed that control arm
> / ball joint, I removed the factory-supplied boot cover and installed a
> Polyurethane one (from Prothane) instead. I noticed that the new boot did
> not have a clip to retain it unlike the original, but figured it must be
> safe or they wouldn't be selling them. I now wonder if the aftermarket boot
> didn't seal properly, and allowed water / salt / etc. to get into the joint
> and ruin it. I'm now suspicious of the lower ball joints and tie rods ends
> as well, which I also covered with polyurethane boots, and am wondering if I
> should also take those apart and examine for similar damage.
> I should also mention that all of these components are aftermarket stuff I
> bought online, as OEM was just too expensive.
> I plan to replace both upper arms as a precaution, and use the
> factory-supplied boot covers next time. What I need advice on now, is how to
> prevent this premature failure from happening again.
> Thanks for any advice.

It sounds like you figured it out.
I like the kind with grease fittings.

On 03/25/2012 12:10 PM, Chris F. wrote:
> <snip> the upper ball
> joint, which I had newly replaced 2 1/2 years ago, was completely worn out -
> <snip>
> I should also mention that all of these components are aftermarket stuff I
> bought online.

well, there you go, question answered.

next time, separate "cheap to buy" from "cheap to own" and you'll never
have this problem again.


--
nomina rutrum rutrum

"Chris F." > wrote in
:

> A couple years back I rebuilt my grandmas old '89 Honda Civic. She
> doesn't
> drive anymore, and I rarely drive due to health problems, but my
> parents have been use it quite often. A few days ago my Dad informed
> me that it wasn't steering properly, and I noticed the front right
> wheel was visibly out of camber. Once I got things apart, I discovered
> that the upper ball joint, which I had newly replaced 2 1/2 years ago,
> was completely worn out - no grease left at all, and the ball wobbling
> loosely in the socket.



You used an aftermarket part.



> I should also mention that all of these components are aftermarket
> stuff I bought online, as OEM was just too expensive.


Now you know why OE is expensive: It lasts.


--
Tegger

On Mar 25, 6:13*pm, Tegger > wrote:
> "Chris F." > wrote :
>
> > * A couple years back I rebuilt my grandmas old '89 Honda Civic. She
> > * doesn't
> > drive anymore, and I rarely drive due to health problems, but my
> > parents have been use it quite often. A few days ago my Dad informed
> > me that it wasn't steering properly, and I noticed the front right
> > wheel was visibly out of camber. Once I got things apart, I discovered
> > that the upper ball joint, which I had newly replaced 2 1/2 years ago,
> > was completely worn out - no grease left at all, and the ball wobbling
> > loosely in the socket.
>
> You used an aftermarket part.
>
> > * I should also mention that all of these components are aftermarket
> > * stuff I bought online, as OEM was just too expensive.
>
> Now you know why OE is expensive: It lasts.
>
> --
> Tegger

Consider what your time and effort is worth. Nothing ****es me off
more than having to do a job over because some shmuck just couldn't
get it right the first time. I did ball joints on my car 6 years ago.
I was going to get aftermarket because yes it was cheap. But when you
think about it if you keep them properly greased this is a job you
should only have to do once on a car. I settled for the Moog brand at
almost 60.00 apiece. It hurt at the time but I've never regretted it.
Most of the after market stuff is Chinese (or worse if that's even
possible) crap. I might consider using some of that on a car I was
planning to sell. But even that would probably be immoral. Lenny

"klem kedidelhopper" > wrote in message
...
On Mar 25, 6:13 pm, Tegger > wrote:
> "Chris F." > wrote
> :
>
> > A couple years back I rebuilt my grandmas old '89 Honda Civic. She
> > doesn't
> > drive anymore, and I rarely drive due to health problems, but my
> > parents have been use it quite often. A few days ago my Dad informed
> > me that it wasn't steering properly, and I noticed the front right
> > wheel was visibly out of camber. Once I got things apart, I discovered
> > that the upper ball joint, which I had newly replaced 2 1/2 years ago,
> > was completely worn out - no grease left at all, and the ball wobbling
> > loosely in the socket.
>
> You used an aftermarket part.
>
> > I should also mention that all of these components are aftermarket
> > stuff I bought online, as OEM was just too expensive.
>
> Now you know why OE is expensive: It lasts.
>
> --
> Tegger

Consider what your time and effort is worth. Nothing ****es me off
more than having to do a job over because some shmuck just couldn't
get it right the first time. I did ball joints on my car 6 years ago.
I was going to get aftermarket because yes it was cheap. But when you
think about it if you keep them properly greased this is a job you
should only have to do once on a car. I settled for the Moog brand at
almost 60.00 apiece. It hurt at the time but I've never regretted it.
Most of the after market stuff is Chinese (or worse if that's even
possible) crap. I might consider using some of that on a car I was
planning to sell. But even that would probably be immoral. Lenny
################

Isn't Moog aftermarket?

Looking at some sales receipts, I realized that the upper control arms I
installed were part of a kit, which also included the lower ball joints and
inner + outer tie rod ends - for a total of $106+ shipping. I hate to say it
but, I suppose I'm going to have to replace all of those now, right?
I'm considering ordering Moog-branded parts from an online supplier, it's
still cheaper than OEM and Moog has a good reputation.
I also wonder if I should replace the shocks too, as I mentioned they are
badly worn.

"Noone" > wrote in message
...
>
> Isn't Moog aftermarket?

Yes, MOOG would be considered aftermarket, although they may manufacture
OEM quality materials for manufacturers.

There are very good aftermarket parts, and there are crappy parts. The
issue is
to know the difference.

To say that aftermarket is never as good as OEM is just not correct.

On Mar 26, 11:33*am, "hls" > wrote:
> "Noone" > wrote in message
>
> ...
>
>
>
> > Isn't Moog aftermarket?
>
> Yes, MOOG would be considered aftermarket, although they may manufacture
> OEM quality materials for manufacturers.
>
> There are very good aftermarket parts, and there are crappy parts. *The
> issue is
> to know the difference.
>
> To say that aftermarket is never as good as OEM is just not correct.

When I said "aftermarket I was (incorrectly) using that term.
Yes Moog is aftermarket but it is a "quality" aftermarket brand. Moog
has been around as long as I can remember and I would have no problem
trusting that brand.

On 03/26/2012 07:59 AM, Chris F. wrote:
> Looking at some sales receipts, I realized that the upper control arms I
> installed were part of a kit, which also included the lower ball joints and
> inner + outer tie rod ends - for a total of $106+ shipping. I hate to say it
> but, I suppose I'm going to have to replace all of those now, right?

yes.


> I'm considering ordering Moog-branded parts from an online supplier, it's
> still cheaper than OEM and Moog has a good reputation.

moog are fine, but you don't need the adjustability. in fact, you'll
probably spend more money monkeying about getting alignment sorted after
fitting them than you would do just coughing up the dough for oem which
are aligned right first time.


> I also wonder if I should replace the shocks too, as I mentioned they are
> badly worn.


you're not driving this car, and you're not altering the camber, so
stick with oem components. if you go to a junkyard, you might get lucky
and find some that have been recently replaced and still in good condition.

the exception would be shocks. oem honda are nothing special in terms
of ride, but they last quite well. practically identical in terms of
function and quality are kyb gr2's, and they're a whole lot cheaper.

but don't replace them unless you have the tools. cheapo coil spring
compressors are downright dangerous, if you can even get them to fit.
[most don't since the honda coils are very tight.] and if you scratch
the spring's surface by mishandling, it'll fatigue and break - with
potentially very serious results for the car's occupants. you either
need to take it to a shop with the right type of compressor, make your
own which doesn't actually touch the spring at all,

<http://www.flickr.com/photos/38636024@N00/2334362171>

or leave this stuff alone. i suggest the latter.

but if you really want to pay attention to this vehicle, you have the
skill, and want keep it running well, replace the rear trailing arm
bushings. part number 52385-S21-003. they're always either cracked, or
broken, and they dramatically affect the vehicle's handling.

the tool you need is he

<http://www.shoptoolsshoptools.com/shopexd.asp?id=2784>


--
nomina rutrum rutrum