72 Brake Line

I'm installing a brake line in my 72 standard, the one that goes from
the master cylinder to the rear. The original had been replaced with
two pieces held together with a compression fitting. I cut the thing
when I replaced the floorpan by accident. Would anyone have a picture
of the original routing of the line. I got the new one piece line in
today from Mid America Motorworks and am hoping to install it this
weekend. It did not come prebent. I've never had to route a steel
line before, so if anyone has any pointers...I'm all ears!
(figuratively speaking anyway) :-)

On Mar 3, 2:11 pm, " > wrote:
> I'm installing a brake line in my 72 standard, the one that goes from
> the master cylinder to the rear. The original had been replaced with
> two pieces held together with a compression fitting. I cut the thing
> when I replaced the floorpan by accident. Would anyone have a picture
> of the original routing of the line. I got the new one piece line in
> today from Mid America Motorworks and am hoping to install it this
> weekend. It did not come prebent. I've never had to route a steel
> line before, so if anyone has any pointers...I'm all ears!
> (figuratively speaking anyway) :-)


Maybe this will help:
http://www.vintagebus.com/wiring/chassis.jpg

I have a new (non pre-bent) steel tube for my Beetle too. I was
planning to replace my master cylinder-to-rear-T-connector tube as a
preventative measure. My Beetle is a RHD and I'm worried that the LHD
replacement tubing will be too short. I need to measure mine. My
master cylinder is on the right of the center tunnel along w/ the
pedals, but the T-connector at the rear is still on the left side of
the vehicle, so somewhere the tubing crosses over the centerline. I'm
just not sure where and how much longer the existing tube is. I read
that many specific model tubes were discontinued and replaced w/ a
common longer versions. This is fine as long as my generic tube is
longer than I need. We will see.

My only tip for your install is to take your time and use a tubing
bender. I have a very simple one just for acvw sized tubes, but is
works. Trying to bend tubes w/o a bender is possible, but you run the
risk of kinking the tube.
Also, use (or reuse) rubber grommets at the front (two to get thru
the firewall) and at the rear (another one or two there). These
prevents the tube from rubbing against the chassis and wearing a hole
in them.

I'm pretty sure I've seen a few other threads on this subject. Search
and see what you get. You might also try www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/
and www.shoptalkforums.com. Great acvw resources there too.


AshMan40

On Mar 3, 9:47 am, "AshMan" > wrote:
> On Mar 3, 2:11 pm, " > wrote:
>
> > I'm installing a brake line in my 72 standard, the one that goes from
> > the master cylinder to the rear. The original had been replaced with
> > two pieces held together with a compression fitting. I cut the thing
> > when I replaced the floorpan by accident. Would anyone have a picture
> > of the original routing of the line. I got the new one piece line in
> > today from Mid America Motorworks and am hoping to install it this
> > weekend. It did not come prebent. I've never had to route a steel
> > line before, so if anyone has any pointers...I'm all ears!
> > (figuratively speaking anyway) :-)
>
> Maybe this will help:http://www.vintagebus.com/wiring/chassis.jpg
>
> I have a new (non pre-bent) steel tube for my Beetle too. I was
> planning to replace my master cylinder-to-rear-T-connector tube as a
> preventative measure. My Beetle is a RHD and I'm worried that the LHD
> replacement tubing will be too short. I need to measure mine. My
> master cylinder is on the right of the center tunnel along w/ the
> pedals, but the T-connector at the rear is still on the left side of
> the vehicle, so somewhere the tubing crosses over the centerline. I'm
> just not sure where and how much longer the existing tube is. I read
> that many specific model tubes were discontinued and replaced w/ a
> common longer versions. This is fine as long as my generic tube is
> longer than I need. We will see.
>
> My only tip for your install is to take your time and use a tubing
> bender. I have a very simple one just for acvw sized tubes, but is
> works. Trying to bend tubes w/o a bender is possible, but you run the
> risk of kinking the tube.
> Also, use (or reuse) rubber grommets at the front (two to get thru
> the firewall) and at the rear (another one or two there). These
> prevents the tube from rubbing against the chassis and wearing a hole
> in them.
>
> I'm pretty sure I've seen a few other threads on this subject. Search
> and see what you get. You might also trywww.thesamba.com/vw/forum/
> andwww.shoptalkforums.com. Great acvw resources there too.
>
> AshMan40



This is pretty much correct. The tube will be too long. I, personally,
did a lager jag under the floor mat before hitting the tunnel clips to
use up the excess. A tight loop might be an alternative, though it
seemed to little extra to bother with to me.

FYI - I've taken a closer look at how the tubing runs thru my RHD STD
Beetle. Since the MC and pedal group are on the right side of the
tunnel the steel tubing routes along the right side of the tunnel
instead of the left as your would expect for LHD models. I can also
see where the brake tube exits the rear next to the battery.
Somewhere under the rear package tray the tubing needs to cross the
center tunnel and still be long enough to reach the T-connector.

Time to break out the string and measure everything before I cut
things off.


AshMan40