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Battery or alternator



 
 
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  #1  
Old April 26th 16, 10:07 PM posted to rec.autos.tech
Michael[_23_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 36
Default Battery or alternator

Or something else?

2003 F150 8 cyl. 5.4 L

Driving home, the red battery ion appeared in the dash. I didn't really notice any problems with how it drove and I made it home ok.

Driving back (20 minutes), I really didn't notice anything but the ABS and red battery icon appeared.

Driving home (20 minutes), the radio was intermittent. The radio went off altogether. The truck began "missing" or running poorly. I made it home, parked, turned off the engine, tried to turn it over, and it made the dreaded clicking sound.

Any help appreciated!

Mike
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  #2  
Old April 26th 16, 10:22 PM posted to rec.autos.tech
dsi1[_11_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 331
Default Battery or alternator

On Tuesday, April 26, 2016 at 11:07:23 AM UTC-10, Michael wrote:
> Or something else?
>
> 2003 F150 8 cyl. 5.4 L
>
> Driving home, the red battery ion appeared in the dash. I didn't really notice any problems with how it drove and I made it home ok.
>
> Driving back (20 minutes), I really didn't notice anything but the ABS and red battery icon appeared.
>
> Driving home (20 minutes), the radio was intermittent. The radio went off altogether. The truck began "missing" or running poorly. I made it home, parked, turned off the engine, tried to turn it over, and it made the dreaded clicking sound.
>
> Any help appreciated!
>
> Mike


First, charge up the battery. Make sure all the connections are sound. Check the voltage - it should be over 12.4V. If it's not, it's your battery. Start the engine. If it's not over 13.6V or so, it's your alternator. If it's 15V or above, you're overcharging the battery. Replace the regulator or alternator. Mostly, it sounds like your alternator is the problem. Make sure all the connections to the alternator are OK.
  #3  
Old April 26th 16, 10:41 PM posted to rec.autos.tech
Steve W.[_6_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,161
Default Battery or alternator

Michael wrote:
> Or something else?
>
> 2003 F150 8 cyl. 5.4 L
>
> Driving home, the red battery ion appeared in the dash. I didn't
> really notice any problems with how it drove and I made it home ok.
>
> Driving back (20 minutes), I really didn't notice anything but the
> ABS and red battery icon appeared.
>
> Driving home (20 minutes), the radio was intermittent. The radio went
> off altogether. The truck began "missing" or running poorly. I made
> it home, parked, turned off the engine, tried to turn it over, and it
> made the dreaded clicking sound.
>
> Any help appreciated!
>
> Mike


Easy to test. Get a cheap voltmeter. (even the free HF units will work
for this)
Hook the meter up to the battery posts with it set to DC voltage and
read the voltage.
Jump start or charge the battery till the truck will start.

With the engine running you should see a voltage at the battery posts
rise to close to 14-15 volts if the alternator is working. If the
voltage doesn't rise the alternator MAY be bad.

Check fuse number 11 (20 amp) in the junction box under the hood. If it
blows or corrodes the alternator will stop working.

Also check the battery cables, the connections on the starter relay and
the connections on the alternator. Wiggle them around while watching the
meter. If the wires corrode internally they could cause this as well.


--
Steve W.
  #4  
Old April 27th 16, 03:07 AM posted to rec.autos.tech
[email protected]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 539
Default Battery or alternator

Michael: Historically, alternators have failed
mor frequently than have batteries.
  #5  
Old April 28th 16, 04:53 AM posted to rec.autos.tech
Michael[_23_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 36
Default Battery or alternator

On Tuesday, April 26, 2016 at 4:41:10 PM UTC-5, Steve W. wrote:
> Michael wrote:
> > Or something else?
> >
> > 2003 F150 8 cyl. 5.4 L
> >
> > Driving home, the red battery ion appeared in the dash. I didn't
> > really notice any problems with how it drove and I made it home ok.
> >
> > Driving back (20 minutes), I really didn't notice anything but the
> > ABS and red battery icon appeared.
> >
> > Driving home (20 minutes), the radio was intermittent. The radio went
> > off altogether. The truck began "missing" or running poorly. I made
> > it home, parked, turned off the engine, tried to turn it over, and it
> > made the dreaded clicking sound.
> >
> > Any help appreciated!
> >
> > Mike

>
> Easy to test. Get a cheap voltmeter. (even the free HF units will work
> for this)
> Hook the meter up to the battery posts with it set to DC voltage and
> read the voltage.
> Jump start or charge the battery till the truck will start.
>
> With the engine running you should see a voltage at the battery posts
> rise to close to 14-15 volts if the alternator is working. If the
> voltage doesn't rise the alternator MAY be bad.
>
> Check fuse number 11 (20 amp) in the junction box under the hood. If it
> blows or corrodes the alternator will stop working.
>
> Also check the battery cables, the connections on the starter relay and
> the connections on the alternator. Wiggle them around while watching the
> meter. If the wires corrode internally they could cause this as well.
>
>
> --
> Steve W.


Hi Steve,

Thanks for your help! I jumped the truck and checked the voltage. It started out at 14 and then slowly leaked down to nothing. I then switched the 11 fuse with another 20 amp fuse and tried again, but I got the same result. Wiggled the wires to no effect. It sounds like the alternator.

Mike
  #6  
Old April 28th 16, 01:00 PM posted to rec.autos.tech
Steve W.[_6_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,161
Default Battery or alternator

Michael wrote:
> On Tuesday, April 26, 2016 at 4:41:10 PM UTC-5, Steve W. wrote:
>> Michael wrote:
>>> Or something else?
>>>
>>> 2003 F150 8 cyl. 5.4 L
>>>
>>> Driving home, the red battery ion appeared in the dash. I didn't
>>> really notice any problems with how it drove and I made it home
>>> ok.
>>>
>>> Driving back (20 minutes), I really didn't notice anything but
>>> the ABS and red battery icon appeared.
>>>
>>> Driving home (20 minutes), the radio was intermittent. The radio
>>> went off altogether. The truck began "missing" or running poorly.
>>> I made it home, parked, turned off the engine, tried to turn it
>>> over, and it made the dreaded clicking sound.
>>>
>>> Any help appreciated!
>>>
>>> Mike

>> Easy to test. Get a cheap voltmeter. (even the free HF units will
>> work for this) Hook the meter up to the battery posts with it set
>> to DC voltage and read the voltage. Jump start or charge the
>> battery till the truck will start.
>>
>> With the engine running you should see a voltage at the battery
>> posts rise to close to 14-15 volts if the alternator is working. If
>> the voltage doesn't rise the alternator MAY be bad.
>>
>> Check fuse number 11 (20 amp) in the junction box under the hood.
>> If it blows or corrodes the alternator will stop working.
>>
>> Also check the battery cables, the connections on the starter relay
>> and the connections on the alternator. Wiggle them around while
>> watching the meter. If the wires corrode internally they could
>> cause this as well.
>>
>>
>> -- Steve W.

>
> Hi Steve,
>
> Thanks for your help! I jumped the truck and checked the voltage. It
> started out at 14 and then slowly leaked down to nothing. I then
> switched the 11 fuse with another 20 amp fuse and tried again, but I
> got the same result. Wiggled the wires to no effect. It sounds like
> the alternator.
>
> Mike


If you want to be sure, remove the battery that's in it and connect up
one that is charged. (you can do that with jumper cables if needed) Then
start it and check the voltage at the battery.
I'm suspicious of the initial 14 volt reading dropping to zero. That
sounds more like a bad battery.
Or it may be that you have both a bad alternator and as a result a bad
battery. (A shorted diode in the alternator could do that)

Or just pull the alternator and take it in, many parts stores will test
them free.

--
Steve W.
  #7  
Old April 28th 16, 11:45 PM posted to rec.autos.tech
Michael[_23_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 36
Default Battery or alternator

On Thursday, April 28, 2016 at 7:00:30 AM UTC-5, Steve W. wrote:
> Michael wrote:
> > On Tuesday, April 26, 2016 at 4:41:10 PM UTC-5, Steve W. wrote:
> >> Michael wrote:
> >>> Or something else?
> >>>
> >>> 2003 F150 8 cyl. 5.4 L
> >>>
> >>> Driving home, the red battery ion appeared in the dash. I didn't
> >>> really notice any problems with how it drove and I made it home
> >>> ok.
> >>>
> >>> Driving back (20 minutes), I really didn't notice anything but
> >>> the ABS and red battery icon appeared.
> >>>
> >>> Driving home (20 minutes), the radio was intermittent. The radio
> >>> went off altogether. The truck began "missing" or running poorly.
> >>> I made it home, parked, turned off the engine, tried to turn it
> >>> over, and it made the dreaded clicking sound.
> >>>
> >>> Any help appreciated!
> >>>
> >>> Mike
> >> Easy to test. Get a cheap voltmeter. (even the free HF units will
> >> work for this) Hook the meter up to the battery posts with it set
> >> to DC voltage and read the voltage. Jump start or charge the
> >> battery till the truck will start.
> >>
> >> With the engine running you should see a voltage at the battery
> >> posts rise to close to 14-15 volts if the alternator is working. If
> >> the voltage doesn't rise the alternator MAY be bad.
> >>
> >> Check fuse number 11 (20 amp) in the junction box under the hood.
> >> If it blows or corrodes the alternator will stop working.
> >>
> >> Also check the battery cables, the connections on the starter relay
> >> and the connections on the alternator. Wiggle them around while
> >> watching the meter. If the wires corrode internally they could
> >> cause this as well.
> >>
> >>
> >> -- Steve W.

> >
> > Hi Steve,
> >
> > Thanks for your help! I jumped the truck and checked the voltage. It
> > started out at 14 and then slowly leaked down to nothing. I then
> > switched the 11 fuse with another 20 amp fuse and tried again, but I
> > got the same result. Wiggled the wires to no effect. It sounds like
> > the alternator.
> >
> > Mike

>
> If you want to be sure, remove the battery that's in it and connect up
> one that is charged. (you can do that with jumper cables if needed) Then
> start it and check the voltage at the battery.
> I'm suspicious of the initial 14 volt reading dropping to zero. That
> sounds more like a bad battery.
> Or it may be that you have both a bad alternator and as a result a bad
> battery. (A shorted diode in the alternator could do that)
>
> Or just pull the alternator and take it in, many parts stores will test
> them free.
>
> --
> Steve W.


Here's a question. My other car is a Toyota Highlander. If I bypass the battery on my truck and try to start it with cables from the post to the battery of the Highlander to check the voltage, will this harm anything? I understand it might not have enough power to crank my truck. I just don't want to mess anything up.

Thanks,

Mike
  #8  
Old April 29th 16, 12:01 AM posted to rec.autos.tech
M.A. Stewart
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 155
Default Battery or alternator

"Steve W." ) writes:
> Michael wrote:
>> On Tuesday, April 26, 2016 at 4:41:10 PM UTC-5, Steve W. wrote:
>>> Michael wrote:
>>>> Or something else?
>>>>
>>>> 2003 F150 8 cyl. 5.4 L
>>>>
>>>> Driving home, the red battery ion appeared in the dash. I didn't
>>>> really notice any problems with how it drove and I made it home
>>>> ok.
>>>>
>>>> Driving back (20 minutes), I really didn't notice anything but
>>>> the ABS and red battery icon appeared.
>>>>
>>>> Driving home (20 minutes), the radio was intermittent. The radio
>>>> went off altogether. The truck began "missing" or running poorly.
>>>> I made it home, parked, turned off the engine, tried to turn it
>>>> over, and it made the dreaded clicking sound.
>>>>
>>>> Any help appreciated!
>>>>
>>>> Mike
>>> Easy to test. Get a cheap voltmeter. (even the free HF units will
>>> work for this) Hook the meter up to the battery posts with it set
>>> to DC voltage and read the voltage. Jump start or charge the
>>> battery till the truck will start.
>>>
>>> With the engine running you should see a voltage at the battery
>>> posts rise to close to 14-15 volts if the alternator is working. If
>>> the voltage doesn't rise the alternator MAY be bad.
>>>
>>> Check fuse number 11 (20 amp) in the junction box under the hood.
>>> If it blows or corrodes the alternator will stop working.
>>>
>>> Also check the battery cables, the connections on the starter relay
>>> and the connections on the alternator. Wiggle them around while
>>> watching the meter. If the wires corrode internally they could
>>> cause this as well.
>>>
>>>
>>> -- Steve W.

>>
>> Hi Steve,
>>
>> Thanks for your help! I jumped the truck and checked the voltage. It
>> started out at 14 and then slowly leaked down to nothing. I then
>> switched the 11 fuse with another 20 amp fuse and tried again, but I
>> got the same result. Wiggled the wires to no effect. It sounds like
>> the alternator.
>>
>> Mike

>
> If you want to be sure, remove the battery that's in it and connect up
> one that is charged. (you can do that with jumper cables if needed) Then
> start it and check the voltage at the battery.
> I'm suspicious of the initial 14 volt reading dropping to zero. That
> sounds more like a bad battery.



Voltage went to zero? I suspect his volt meter connection went
bad, as in no connection. I have a 12V battery which was made
in 2001. It 'died' in 2007. It has been sitting 'dead' for 8.7
years. I just measured it's voltage... it's producing 4.27 volts!
Wiggle your voltmeter connections to get a good connection. Keep
wiggling them now and again.



> Or it may be that you have both a bad alternator and as a result a bad
> battery. (A shorted diode in the alternator could do that)
>
> Or just pull the alternator and take it in, many parts stores will test
> them free.
>
> --
> Steve W.



  #9  
Old April 29th 16, 03:49 AM posted to rec.autos.tech
Michael[_23_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 36
Default Battery or alternator

On Thursday, April 28, 2016 at 7:00:30 AM UTC-5, Steve W. wrote:
> Michael wrote:
> > On Tuesday, April 26, 2016 at 4:41:10 PM UTC-5, Steve W. wrote:
> >> Michael wrote:
> >>> Or something else?
> >>>
> >>> 2003 F150 8 cyl. 5.4 L
> >>>
> >>> Driving home, the red battery ion appeared in the dash. I didn't
> >>> really notice any problems with how it drove and I made it home
> >>> ok.
> >>>
> >>> Driving back (20 minutes), I really didn't notice anything but
> >>> the ABS and red battery icon appeared.
> >>>
> >>> Driving home (20 minutes), the radio was intermittent. The radio
> >>> went off altogether. The truck began "missing" or running poorly.
> >>> I made it home, parked, turned off the engine, tried to turn it
> >>> over, and it made the dreaded clicking sound.
> >>>
> >>> Any help appreciated!
> >>>
> >>> Mike
> >> Easy to test. Get a cheap voltmeter. (even the free HF units will
> >> work for this) Hook the meter up to the battery posts with it set
> >> to DC voltage and read the voltage. Jump start or charge the
> >> battery till the truck will start.
> >>
> >> With the engine running you should see a voltage at the battery
> >> posts rise to close to 14-15 volts if the alternator is working. If
> >> the voltage doesn't rise the alternator MAY be bad.
> >>
> >> Check fuse number 11 (20 amp) in the junction box under the hood.
> >> If it blows or corrodes the alternator will stop working.
> >>
> >> Also check the battery cables, the connections on the starter relay
> >> and the connections on the alternator. Wiggle them around while
> >> watching the meter. If the wires corrode internally they could
> >> cause this as well.
> >>
> >>
> >> -- Steve W.

> >
> > Hi Steve,
> >
> > Thanks for your help! I jumped the truck and checked the voltage. It
> > started out at 14 and then slowly leaked down to nothing. I then
> > switched the 11 fuse with another 20 amp fuse and tried again, but I
> > got the same result. Wiggled the wires to no effect. It sounds like
> > the alternator.
> >
> > Mike

>
> If you want to be sure, remove the battery that's in it and connect up
> one that is charged. (you can do that with jumper cables if needed) Then
> start it and check the voltage at the battery.
> I'm suspicious of the initial 14 volt reading dropping to zero. That
> sounds more like a bad battery.
> Or it may be that you have both a bad alternator and as a result a bad
> battery. (A shorted diode in the alternator could do that)
>
> Or just pull the alternator and take it in, many parts stores will test
> them free.
>
> --
> Steve W.


But if it's a bad battery, wouldn't the car continue to run? While it's running, I watch the voltage meter start at 12 today and slowly leak to nothing.

Thanks,

Mike
  #10  
Old April 29th 16, 04:54 PM posted to rec.autos.tech
Steve W.[_6_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,161
Default Battery or alternator

Michael wrote:
> On Thursday, April 28, 2016 at 7:00:30 AM UTC-5, Steve W. wrote:
>> Michael wrote:
>>> On Tuesday, April 26, 2016 at 4:41:10 PM UTC-5, Steve W. wrote:
>>>> Michael wrote:
>>>>> Or something else?
>>>>>
>>>>> 2003 F150 8 cyl. 5.4 L
>>>>>
>>>>> Driving home, the red battery ion appeared in the dash. I
>>>>> didn't really notice any problems with how it drove and I
>>>>> made it home ok.
>>>>>
>>>>> Driving back (20 minutes), I really didn't notice anything
>>>>> but the ABS and red battery icon appeared.
>>>>>
>>>>> Driving home (20 minutes), the radio was intermittent. The
>>>>> radio went off altogether. The truck began "missing" or
>>>>> running poorly. I made it home, parked, turned off the
>>>>> engine, tried to turn it over, and it made the dreaded
>>>>> clicking sound.
>>>>>
>>>>> Any help appreciated!
>>>>>
>>>>> Mike
>>>> Easy to test. Get a cheap voltmeter. (even the free HF units
>>>> will work for this) Hook the meter up to the battery posts with
>>>> it set to DC voltage and read the voltage. Jump start or charge
>>>> the battery till the truck will start.
>>>>
>>>> With the engine running you should see a voltage at the battery
>>>> posts rise to close to 14-15 volts if the alternator is
>>>> working. If the voltage doesn't rise the alternator MAY be bad.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Check fuse number 11 (20 amp) in the junction box under the
>>>> hood. If it blows or corrodes the alternator will stop working.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Also check the battery cables, the connections on the starter
>>>> relay and the connections on the alternator. Wiggle them around
>>>> while watching the meter. If the wires corrode internally they
>>>> could cause this as well.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> -- Steve W.
>>> Hi Steve,
>>>
>>> Thanks for your help! I jumped the truck and checked the
>>> voltage. It started out at 14 and then slowly leaked down to
>>> nothing. I then switched the 11 fuse with another 20 amp fuse and
>>> tried again, but I got the same result. Wiggled the wires to no
>>> effect. It sounds like the alternator.
>>>
>>> Mike

>> If you want to be sure, remove the battery that's in it and connect
>> up one that is charged. (you can do that with jumper cables if
>> needed) Then start it and check the voltage at the battery. I'm
>> suspicious of the initial 14 volt reading dropping to zero. That
>> sounds more like a bad battery. Or it may be that you have both a
>> bad alternator and as a result a bad battery. (A shorted diode in
>> the alternator could do that)
>>
>> Or just pull the alternator and take it in, many parts stores will
>> test them free.
>>
>> -- Steve W.

>
> But if it's a bad battery, wouldn't the car continue to run? While
> it's running, I watch the voltage meter start at 12 today and slowly
> leak to nothing.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike


Not if the bad battery killed the alternator because it has shorted
plates inside.

However this new 12 volt starting voltage you posted should rule that out.

--
Steve W.
 




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