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80 series Landcruiser rear axle removal - need advice.



 
 
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  #1  
Old January 11th 08, 06:08 AM posted to rec.autos.4x4
MugMechanic
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1
Default 80 series Landcruiser rear axle removal - need advice.

I've been doing the brakes on my '94 Landcruiser, no problem with that, but
I've noticed a slight oil leak from the right rear axle when I pulled off
the brake disk to check the handbrake and adjust. So I suspect an axle oil
seal needs replacing.
I have one of those rather useless Gregory's repair manuals and all it says
about removing the rear axle is :-

1. Remove the axle shaft to rear hub nuts and spring washers.
[OK done, removed six 12mm nuts and spring washers, bit tight with rust
but they came off OK with WD40.]

2. Using a hammer and brass punch on the studs remove the cone washers from
the axle shaft flange.
{Here I'm stuck. I've tried tapping the studs with a brass drift, but
nothing happens. I can see the "cone washers" but how hard do I have to belt
the studs to get them out? I'm afraid to bash the studs too hard for fear of
damaging them. I've applied some WD40 and let it stand overnight.}

3. Install 2 x M8x25mm bolts to the threaded holes in the axle shaft flange
and tighten evenly until the flange is dislodged from the rear hub.

[OK no problem, I can do that, but it seems you have to get the cone
washers out first as per step 2]

There are no comprehensive illustrations in the Gregory's manual to help.

Can anyone please advise on how to go about step 2 to get the cone washers
out, just tapping the studs even fairly hard with the brass drift dies not
seem to do the trick.

Cheers,

MugMechanic.


Ads
  #2  
Old January 11th 08, 07:31 AM posted to rec.autos.4x4
Terminal Crazy
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1
Default 80 series Landcruiser rear axle removal - need advice.

In article >, MugMechanic
> wrote:
> 2. Using a hammer and brass punch on the studs remove the cone washers
> from the axle shaft flange. {Here I'm stuck. I've tried tapping the
> studs with a brass drift, but nothing happens. I can see the "cone
> washers" but how hard do I have to belt the studs to get them out? I'm
> afraid to bash the studs too hard for fear of damaging them. I've
> applied some WD40 and let it stand overnight.}


Hiya,
I recently adjusted the front wheel bearing on my wifes 91 Hulux surf
SSR-X. I've never come across the cone washers before but if you look
closely they are split to allow a change of diameter. They were in really
tight. You could try heat & wd40 but I just 'kept beating' on them behind
the split and between the gasket of the flange. The gasket itself wasn't
for moving either. Also thread the wheel nuts back on to protect the thread
and tap the bolt helps to loosen the cones.

HTH

--
Terminal_Crazy

Mitch - 1995 Z28 LT1 M6
Lancashire England
http://www.sand-hill.freeserve.co.uk/terminal_crazy/
  #3  
Old January 11th 08, 03:04 PM posted to rec.autos.4x4
Mike Romain
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3,760
Default 80 series Landcruiser rear axle removal - need advice.

I would recommend you stop using a Water Displacement fluid and get some
real penetrating fluid. A product named PB BLaster is decent, Liquid
Wrench is decent and I am sure there are a few more brands.

Liquid wrench will do in an hour what a water displacer like WD40 will
loosen in a week of daily soakings. (well, maybe a few days) There is a
radical difference. Even brake fluid is a better penetrant than WD40,
but it is real hard on paint.

Mike (in the rust belt)
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com

MugMechanic wrote:
> I've been doing the brakes on my '94 Landcruiser, no problem with that, but
> I've noticed a slight oil leak from the right rear axle when I pulled off
> the brake disk to check the handbrake and adjust. So I suspect an axle oil
> seal needs replacing.
> I have one of those rather useless Gregory's repair manuals and all it says
> about removing the rear axle is :-
>
> 1. Remove the axle shaft to rear hub nuts and spring washers.
> [OK done, removed six 12mm nuts and spring washers, bit tight with rust
> but they came off OK with WD40.]
>
> 2. Using a hammer and brass punch on the studs remove the cone washers from
> the axle shaft flange.
> {Here I'm stuck. I've tried tapping the studs with a brass drift, but
> nothing happens. I can see the "cone washers" but how hard do I have to belt
> the studs to get them out? I'm afraid to bash the studs too hard for fear of
> damaging them. I've applied some WD40 and let it stand overnight.}
>
> 3. Install 2 x M8x25mm bolts to the threaded holes in the axle shaft flange
> and tighten evenly until the flange is dislodged from the rear hub.
>
> [OK no problem, I can do that, but it seems you have to get the cone
> washers out first as per step 2]
>
> There are no comprehensive illustrations in the Gregory's manual to help.
>
> Can anyone please advise on how to go about step 2 to get the cone washers
> out, just tapping the studs even fairly hard with the brass drift dies not
> seem to do the trick.
>
> Cheers,
>
> MugMechanic.
>
>

  #4  
Old January 11th 08, 06:34 PM posted to rec.autos.4x4
PeterD
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 874
Default 80 series Landcruiser rear axle removal - need advice.

On Fri, 11 Jan 2008 10:04:29 -0500, Mike Romain >
wrote:

>I would recommend you stop using a Water Displacement fluid and get some
>real penetrating fluid. A product named PB BLaster is decent, Liquid
>Wrench is decent and I am sure there are a few more brands.
>
>Liquid wrench will do in an hour what a water displacer like WD40 will
>loosen in a week of daily soakings. (well, maybe a few days) There is a
>radical difference. Even brake fluid is a better penetrant than WD40,
>but it is real hard on paint.
>


And for anyone too cheap to buy you can make your own. Take two parts
diesel fuel to ATF... Works well, and will soak in generally.

Aero-Kroil is another good product.
  #5  
Old January 15th 08, 03:24 PM posted to sci.med.cardiology,rec.autos.4x4
Mike Romain
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3,760
Default 80 series Landcruiser rear axle removal - need advice.

Mike Romain wrote:
> the same body, idem numero


Some brain dead asshole has a really warped sense of humor....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com
  #6  
Old December 11th 17, 07:57 PM posted to rec.autos.4x4
[email protected]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1
Default 80 series Landcruiser rear axle removal - need advice.

On Friday, 11 January 2008 19:08:08 UTC+13, MugMechanic wrote:
> I've been doing the brakes on my '94 Landcruiser, no problem with that, but
> I've noticed a slight oil leak from the right rear axle when I pulled off
> the brake disk to check the handbrake and adjust. So I suspect an axle oil
> seal needs replacing.
> I have one of those rather useless Gregory's repair manuals and all it says
> about removing the rear axle is :-
>
> 1. Remove the axle shaft to rear hub nuts and spring washers.
> [OK done, removed six 12mm nuts and spring washers, bit tight with rust
> but they came off OK with WD40.]
>
> 2. Using a hammer and brass punch on the studs remove the cone washers from
> the axle shaft flange.
> {Here I'm stuck. I've tried tapping the studs with a brass drift, but
> nothing happens. I can see the "cone washers" but how hard do I have to belt
> the studs to get them out? I'm afraid to bash the studs too hard for fear of
> damaging them. I've applied some WD40 and let it stand overnight.}
>
> 3. Install 2 x M8x25mm bolts to the threaded holes in the axle shaft flange
> and tighten evenly until the flange is dislodged from the rear hub.
>
> [OK no problem, I can do that, but it seems you have to get the cone
> washers out first as per step 2]
>
> There are no comprehensive illustrations in the Gregory's manual to help.
>
> Can anyone please advise on how to go about step 2 to get the cone washers
> out, just tapping the studs even fairly hard with the brass drift dies not
> seem to do the trick.
>
> Cheers,
>
> MugMechanic.


Hey guys, does anyone know what the thread size is for the two bolts that remove the axles? M8 x what? 1? 1.5?

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