Painting question

Greetings,

I am working on the brake system to a 1954 Ford F-100 and am sandblasting
the last 50 years of rust and gunk away. I have the whole brake plate and
assembly off the suspension and laying on my work bench. Anyway, the
question is, once cleaned, is there a good all-purpose, one coat paint I can
use? Or, do I need to prime it and then paint?

Spy Fox wrote:

> Greetings,
>
> I am working on the brake system to a 1954 Ford F-100 and am sandblasting
> the last 50 years of rust and gunk away. I have the whole brake plate and
> assembly off the suspension and laying on my work bench. Anyway, the
> question is, once cleaned, is there a good all-purpose, one coat paint I can
> use? Or, do I need to prime it and then paint?
>

Always prime first.

I'm going through the same thing with my '55 Stude coupe project,
although instead of sandblasting, I'm electrolytically derusting
everything. (fortunately, there isn't much rust.) I've been using
Plasti-Kote semi-gloss black "wheel paint" in a rattle can because a)
it's supposed to be resistant to brake dust b) it's the correct gloss,
or close enough to it that nobody will say anything and c) it's 99 cents
a can at my local Ollie's

Time will tell if it works any better than Krylon. If you're doing a
high buck resto you may want to have the backing plates powder coated or
painted with something like Imron.

nate

--
replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

Spy Fox wrote:
>
> Greetings,
>
> I am working on the brake system to a 1954 Ford F-100 and am sandblasting
> the last 50 years of rust and gunk away. I have the whole brake plate and
> assembly off the suspension and laying on my work bench. Anyway, the
> question is, once cleaned, is there a good all-purpose, one coat paint I can
> use? Or, do I need to prime it and then paint?

Always prime. I use Rustoleum for areas under the car.

George Patterson
I prefer Heaven for climate but Hell for company.

Thanks for the info. I ended up going with POR 15 from the paint jobber
shop. You're Plasti-Kote doesn't sound too bad for 99 cents. POR 15 is
expensive - a pint cost me $23 with tax.

No restoration for me, just rebuilding. I want something I can drive
afterwards without being super-paranoid because of value.

Spy Fox wrote:

> Thanks for the info. I ended up going with POR 15 from the paint jobber
> shop. You're Plasti-Kote doesn't sound too bad for 99 cents. POR 15 is
> expensive - a pint cost me $23 with tax.
>
> No restoration for me, just rebuilding. I want something I can drive
> afterwards without being super-paranoid because of value.
>
>

I like POR-15 too, but it doesn't work very well on metal without any
"tooth." Since you've sandblasted your parts instead of electrolyically
derusting them you should be OK though (but it wouldn't work for my
application.)

nate

--
replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

remember POR will fade from UV exposure. The stuff will turn gray. POR
recommends coating it with a UV resistant paint they sell.

"Spy Fox" > wrote in message
...
> Thanks for the info. I ended up going with POR 15 from the paint jobber
> shop. You're Plasti-Kote doesn't sound too bad for 99 cents. POR 15 is
> expensive - a pint cost me $23 with tax.
>
> No restoration for me, just rebuilding. I want something I can drive
> afterwards without being super-paranoid because of value.
>
>