Need help to replace thermostat on 1993 325i sedan

Hello,

I have a 1993 BMW 325i that never warms up when the weather gets cold
(35 degrees farenheit and under). I am assuming that the thermostat is
stuck open and I would like to replace it myself (because I am cheap).
Unfortunately, I can't tell where it is!

Chilton's suggests that the thermostat is close to the water pump,
either by the cylinder head, intake manifold, or between the two
cooling hoses. My engine has an aluminun "T" where the upper and lower
radiator hoses seem to connect to the engine block. The postings I see
here suggest that I will need to take my colling fan off to get at the
thermostat, so now I am pretty confused.

Can someone help me pinpoint where the thermostat is at?
Thanks,

Lyle_s