What is a Good Synthetic Oil to Use?

I think I will stick with conventional non synthetic 10 W30 in all but
hot weather and in hot weather I will use 30HD.


On Feb 13, 8:22*pm, "Joey Tribiani" > wrote:
> "Jim Ed" > wrote in message
>
> ...
>
> >Unless it is cold outside and the oil is very thick from being cold, I
> >do not see any problems with 20 W 50 affecting the oil pressure relief
> >and control valves or bursting the oil cooler from too much pressure.
>
> bursting the cooler is less of an issue than having a 50 weight rated oil....
> At operating temperature it can, and will in a healthy engine, *cause the
> bypass valve to remain open, or partially open, and oil will bypass the
> cooler.. I used to run the 20-50 weight because everyone said it was what
> vw's "needed"... they also said it didn't need the thermostat, all vw's have
> ****ty heat, *and that it needed a relay or the starter wouldn't work.... all
> those things have proven to be horse**** over the years...

"Jim Ed" > wrote in message
...
>I think I will stick with conventional non synthetic 10 W30 in all but
>hot weather and in hot weather I will use 30HD.

I don't understand that line of thought.... 10w30 is the same viscosity
at operating temperatures as straight 30 weight oil... where the 30 weight
is bettered by the multi-viscosity oil is at startup... at startup straight
30 weight oil is very thick...

> vw's "needed"... they also said it didn't need the thermostat, all vw's have
> ****ty heat, *and that it needed a relay or the starter wouldn't work.... all
> those things have proven to be horse**** over the years...

You forgot the -009. Gotta have one of those if you want your ride to
run correctly. Oh..and cut those pre-heat tubes off already...jeez.

:-)


Chris

Dont forget backing off the chokes!. Dont need them in Aust. After fiddling
around with them for 40 years on and off I,ve found that the best setting is
where the service manual says!.
Know it all b..........s.
John

> wrote in message
...
> vw's "needed"... they also said it didn't need the thermostat, all vw's
> have
> ****ty heat, and that it needed a relay or the starter wouldn't work...
> all
> those things have proven to be horse**** over the years...

You forgot the -009. Gotta have one of those if you want your ride to
run correctly. Oh..and cut those pre-heat tubes off already...jeez.

:-)


Chris

_______________

isn't that the truth....

On Feb 12, 10:58*am, Jim Ed > wrote:
> I want to start using synthetic oil in my 1973 VW Beetle's T-1 engine.
>
> What about Castrol 5 W50 for Summer time or would Quaker State be
> better?
> TIA

Just go to Walmart and grab a jug of Rotella straight 30wt HDEO. It
still has lots of the "old"
additives that the big-rig trucks still use and it's cheap. IMO, the
problems with synthetics in an ACVW are that 1. it's expensive and 2.
chances are it's real benefit of extended oil drain intervals won't be
realized in these motors since the oil will become fuel-contaminated
in a short period of time. Get a jug of Rotella or Delo and you can
change the oil twice as often which is really the best thing you can
do for your motor. These oils also come in a 15-40, but 30 seems the
way to go.
Bill.

The Rotella T is also available in 10w30 which I've been using for
years.

And I wish I could say that I've never had a problem with it. But I am
now
redoing my 1776 at ~25k miles because of pitted lifters, scuffed up
cam
lobes and loose lifter bores. :-\

Anyway, I've located a local speed shop that carries Brad Penn and
that's
all I'll be using from now on. I bought a case of their Penn Grade 1
10w30
on the way home today.

Max

That ounds good but, I like to buy my oil at the locals F.L.A.P.S./
Auto Zone.

Even there Rotella is only a couples of dollars more than Wallyworld.

I think I am going to stick with Castrol 10 W30 in all but hot weather
and in hot weather use Castrol 30HD.
How ever I might start using a synthetic-conventional oil blend.
Does Castrol make a synthetic blend 20 W50?

I change it at least every 1000 miles and I do not mind paying more
for the synthetic.

<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

> Just go to Walmart and grab a jug of Rotella straight 30wt HDEO. *It
> still has lots of the "old"
> additives that the big-rig trucks still use and it's cheap. *IMO, the
> problems with synthetics in an ACVW are that 1. it's expensive and 2.
> chances are it's real benefit of extended oil drain intervals won't be
> realized in these motors since the *oil will become fuel-contaminated
> in a short period of time. *Get a jug of *Rotella or Delo and you can
> change the oil twice as often which is really the best thing you can
> do for your motor. *These oils also come in a 15-40, but 30 seems the
> way to go.
> Bill.

On Feb 18, 1:08*pm, Jim Ed > wrote:
> *That ounds good but, I like to buy my oil at the locals F.L.A.P.S./
> Auto Zone.

I was getting the 10w30 Rotella at Napa. They're pretty friendly.

Max

"Bill" > wrote in message
...
> IMO, the
>problems with synthetics in an ACVW are that 1. it's expensive and 2.
>chances are it's real benefit of extended oil drain intervals won't be
>realized in these motors since the oil will become fuel-contaminated
>in a short period of time.

fuel dilution isn't what gets the oil the fastest, it's the engine case
ventilation system that does... using outside, and unfiltered, air to
ventilate the case puts contaminates(think moisture and dust) in the oil...