What is a Good Synthetic Oil to Use?

.. As a further point of interest, the original
> owners manual I have for my 74 super does not mention multi-grade oils
> at all with the exception of SAW 20W-20. I have no idea what that was.
> Other than 20W-20, which may have been a typo, it just lists different
> temperature ranges, and the proper straight-weight oil to use from 5w
> up to 40w. It also mentions service grade SD or SE as being required
> for a VW engine.
>
> Hope that helps.
>
> Chris
I haven't seen 20W-20 oil since about 1992.

I started this thread because of an article I read on synthetic oils
and how they help an autos engine live longer. They mentioned the
amsoil.com website.
http://www.amsoil.com/

I was wanting to know what synthetic oil some of you use.

I called Gene Berg when he was alive and asked him if it was OK to use
20W-50.
He said not to use it unless the engine is worn out.
He said to use 10W-30.

My Robert Bently VW Owners Workshop Manual says you can use 10W-30,
20W-50, 30HD, or even 40HD if it is over 70 degrees F all the time.

For a while, John C. of aircooled.net was recommending and selling
Quaker State 5W-50 synthetic.

But, I am going to stick with 10W-30 in all but hot weather and use
30HD or possibly 40HD in hot weather. I might try the 10W-30 in a
synthetic blend.

On Feb 19, 7:41*pm, Jim Ed > wrote:
> . As a further point of interest, the original> owners manual I have for my 74 super does not mention multi-grade oils
> > at all with the exception of SAW 20W-20. I have no idea what that was.
> > Other than 20W-20, which may have been a typo, it just lists different
> > temperature ranges, and the proper straight-weight oil to use from 5w
> > up to 40w. It also mentions service grade SD or SE as being required
> > for a VW engine.
>
> > Hope that helps.
>
> > Chris
>
> I haven't seen 20W-20 oil since about 1992.
>
> I started this thread because of an article I read on synthetic oils
> and how they help an autos engine live longer. They mentioned the
> amsoil.com website.http://www.amsoil.com/
>
> I was wanting to know what synthetic oil some of you use.
>
> I called Gene Berg when he was alive and asked him if it was OK to use
> 20W-50.
> He said not to use it unless the engine is worn out.
> He said to use 10W-30.
>
> My Robert Bently VW Owners Workshop Manual says you can use 10W-30,
> 20W-50, 30HD, or even 40HD if it is over 70 degrees F all the time.
>
> For a while, John C. of aircooled.net was recommending and selling
> Quaker State 5W-50 synthetic.
>
> But, I am going to stick with 10W-30 in all but hot weather and use
> 30HD or possibly 40HD in hot weather. I might try the 10W-30 in a
> synthetic blend.

Probably the top 3 true synthetics are Mobil 1 15-50; Pennzoil
Platinum and Castrol 0-40 (this is the so-called German Castrol which
is somewhat difficult to find, but meets some of the toughest
standards out there.) I've used the Mobil Extended in an early 911
only because I got a free case - it's expensive stuff.
As for the above mentioned fuel contamination discussion, if guys are
running open crankcase vents on the street, then frequent oil changing
is even that more important vs. long drain interval oils.

> As for the above mentioned fuel contamination discussion, if guys are
> running open crankcase vents on the street, then frequent oil changing
> is even that more important vs. long drain interval oils.

.... talking about how the dirt comes in with the air at the crank
pulley.
Then the air goes out the oil filler/breather and the dirt stays in
the oil.

On Feb 20, 2:28*pm, Jim Ed > wrote:
> > As for the above mentioned fuel contamination discussion, if guys are
> > running open crankcase vents on the street, then frequent oil changing
> > is even that more important vs. long drain interval oils.
>
> ... talking about how the dirt comes in with the air at the crank
> pulley.
> Then the air goes out the oil filler/breather and the dirt stays in
> the oil.

So you're saying that a vacuum exists in the crankcase and significant
amounts of air (and dirt) are pulled in?

On Feb 20, 7:28*pm, Bill > wrote:
> On Feb 20, 2:28*pm, Jim Ed > wrote:
>
> > > As for the above mentioned fuel contamination discussion, if guys are
> > > running open crankcase vents on the street, then frequent oil changing
> > > is even that more important vs. long drain interval oils.
>
> > ... talking about how the dirt comes in with the air at the crank
> > pulley.
> > Then the air goes out the oil filler/breather and the dirt stays in
> > the oil.
>
> So you're saying that a vacuum exists in the crankcase and significant
> amounts of air (and dirt) are pulled in?
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

The following was taken from this link:

http://www.vw-resource.com/vw-resour...ntilation.html

Crankcase Ventilation
~~~
Rob wrote - There is an opening into the crankcase around the pulley
shaft which is designed to pull in fresh (unfiltered!) air.

If remove the engine pulley you'll see a couple of annular slots in
the case around the shaft. The shaft itself has a spiral groove cut in
it, so it "screws" air into the crankcase. This ensures that there is
always a slight overpressure in the crankcase, which, combined with
the slight vacuum in the carby induction system, pulls oil fumes etc
into the carby and reburns them. You might hear the beach buggy boys
talk about "sand seals" and these are plug-like devices which seal off
these slots so you don't get dust and sand into the sump.

There’s a large washer around the shaft just behind these slots to act
as an oil splash plate, and since the air is being drawn into the
crankcase, it encourages the oil there to dribble back into the case
and sump, rather than force it's way out.

~~~

Forgive the stupid question, but can anyone tell me the advantage of
synthetic? For the life of me I cannot think of any other than the
"less frequent oil changes" argument which, for someone like myself
who learned to be religious about oil changes ages ago, is irrelevant
-- I actually like changing my oil

I could *possibly* see using it for better temperature control, but
given the expense and the fact that Bug engines normally leak way more
than modern cars I don't see the point.

My mantra has always been use a high quality, name brand, oil and
change every 2500-3000 miles. Been doing that for 30-years...jeez I
feel old...

Ken

"Ken H" > wrote in message
...
>, but
> given the expense and the fact that Bug engines normally leak way more
> than modern cars I don't see the point.
>

the ACVW engine doesn't have to leak, owners LET them leak....

Ken H wrote:
> Forgive the stupid question, but can anyone tell me the advantage of
> synthetic? For the life of me I cannot think of any other than the
> "less frequent oil changes" argument which, for someone like myself
> who learned to be religious about oil changes ages ago, is irrelevant
> -- I actually like changing my oil
>
> I could *possibly* see using it for better temperature control, but
> given the expense and the fact that Bug engines normally leak way more
> than modern cars I don't see the point.
>
> My mantra has always been use a high quality, name brand, oil and
> change every 2500-3000 miles. Been doing that for 30-years...jeez I
> feel old...
>
> Ken


The long oil change interval (thanks to resistance to break-down) is one
of the main selling points of synthetics, a feature completely wasted in
an aircooled VW... leaks or no leaks. Our oil is changed because it gets
dirty fast, much faster than oil in modern car engines that are more or
less closed systems. Ours is open to the athmosphere. Our carbed old
technology also generates more soot and other deposits that end up in
the oil, contaminating it further.

For the cold winter months, synthetics could be a nice idea. They are
thinner when cold, helping reduce resistance when starting a cold
engine. They (supposedly, lol) get thicker as they warm up. Another
thing our engines need. So in a way, that's best of two worlds for
those who need to drive in the cold.

On Feb 23, 5:48*pm, Jan Andersson >
wrote:
> For the cold winter months, synthetics could be a nice idea. They are
> thinner when cold, helping reduce resistance when starting a cold
> engine. They (supposedly, lol) get thicker as they warm up. Another
> thing our engines need. So in a way, that's *best of two worlds for
> those who need to drive in the cold.

Ok, makes sense. Although even for my modern daily driver I don't see
the point in synthetics. Still, part of me wants to find a good reason
to use it...maybe a geeky car-guy thing

And Joey, you're right of course, but I think VW owners have to "not
let them leak" more than other cars.

Ken

"Ken H" > wrote in message
...


>And Joey, you're right of course, but I think VW owners have to "not
>let them leak" more than other cars.

>Ken

I agree, Ken... they are much more leak proned than late model cars, but
comparable to cars of their vintage...