Need to leave power to cig lighter without key on or in accessory position

I had this answered last year or so, but I need it answered again.

I have a 1999 Dodge Grand Caravan. As we all know, the cigarette lighter
plugs do not work until the key is either in accessory or in the run
position. I am aware that the relay for this is under the hood. I was told
that there was a replacment dummy relay that would leave the power on at all
times. The only thing I did not get was the part number. I was just at the
dealer today and he was not aware of such a relay, but he said if I could
get him a part number, he could order it.

Thanks,
Tony

On Thu, 10 Jun 2004 10:23:39 -0400, Tony H wrote:

> I had this answered last year or so, but I need it answered again.
>
> I have a 1999 Dodge Grand Caravan. As we all know, the cigarette lighter
> plugs do not work until the key is either in accessory or in the run
> position. I am aware that the relay for this is under the hood. I was told
> that there was a replacment dummy relay that would leave the power on at all
> times. The only thing I did not get was the part number. I was just at the
> dealer today and he was not aware of such a relay, but he said if I could
> get him a part number, he could order it.
>
> Thanks,
> Tony


Why pay out your ass for relays that probably control more than just
the cigarette lighter (probably the radio, the navigation panel (if
equ.), rear window defogger, windshield wipers) to make all of it work
without the key in the appropriate position (there is a REASON for
that, BTW -- unless you like dead batteries) and such when all you need to
do is reroute the feed wire in the fuse panel to go to some constant-hot
feed? All you should need is to cut the wire (leave enough on the fuse
panel end to splice elsewhere) and then splice it to a constantly hot
wire, like the one coming from the dome lamp, headlight, or 4-way feeds.
Just be sure to splice it to a *FEED* wire *AHEAD* of the fuse, not
*AFTER* the fuse (that way, if the cannibalized circuit fuse blows, the
fed (cig) circuit stays hot). The fuses for each circuit will still
properly protect each circuit when this is done properly.

This can be done with cheap splice connectors and a crimp tool, $15 for a
kit.

Alternatively, just wire the cig socket directly to the battery with an
added inline fuse. There is a grommet in the firewall with a harness fed
through it that can easily accomodate one more 14 to 16 guage automotive
wire with no problem.

HIH
CJ

On Thu, 10 Jun 2004 10:23:39 -0400, Tony H wrote:

> I had this answered last year or so, but I need it answered again.
>
> I have a 1999 Dodge Grand Caravan. As we all know, the cigarette lighter
> plugs do not work until the key is either in accessory or in the run
> position. I am aware that the relay for this is under the hood. I was told
> that there was a replacment dummy relay that would leave the power on at all
> times. The only thing I did not get was the part number. I was just at the
> dealer today and he was not aware of such a relay, but he said if I could
> get him a part number, he could order it.
>
> Thanks,
> Tony


Why pay out your ass for relays that probably control more than just
the cigarette lighter (probably the radio, the navigation panel (if
equ.), rear window defogger, windshield wipers) to make all of it work
without the key in the appropriate position (there is a REASON for
that, BTW -- unless you like dead batteries) and such when all you need to
do is reroute the feed wire in the fuse panel to go to some constant-hot
feed? All you should need is to cut the wire (leave enough on the fuse
panel end to splice elsewhere) and then splice it to a constantly hot
wire, like the one coming from the dome lamp, headlight, or 4-way feeds.
Just be sure to splice it to a *FEED* wire *AHEAD* of the fuse, not
*AFTER* the fuse (that way, if the cannibalized circuit fuse blows, the
fed (cig) circuit stays hot). The fuses for each circuit will still
properly protect each circuit when this is done properly.

This can be done with cheap splice connectors and a crimp tool, $15 for a
kit.

Alternatively, just wire the cig socket directly to the battery with an
added inline fuse. There is a grommet in the firewall with a harness fed
through it that can easily accomodate one more 14 to 16 guage automotive
wire with no problem.

HIH
CJ

"Circuit Breaker" > wrote in message
news
> On Thu, 10 Jun 2004 10:23:39 -0400, Tony H wrote:
>
> > I had this answered last year or so, but I need it answered again.
> >
> > I have a 1999 Dodge Grand Caravan. As we all know, the cigarette
lighter
> > plugs do not work until the key is either in accessory or in the run
> > position. I am aware that the relay for this is under the hood. I was
told
> > that there was a replacment dummy relay that would leave the power on at
all
> > times. The only thing I did not get was the part number. I was just at
the
> > dealer today and he was not aware of such a relay, but he said if I
could
> > get him a part number, he could order it.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Tony
>
>
> Why pay out your ass for relays that probably control more than just
> the cigarette lighter (probably the radio, the navigation panel (if
> equ.), rear window defogger, windshield wipers) to make all of it work
> without the key in the appropriate position (there is a REASON for
> that, BTW -- unless you like dead batteries) and such when all you need to
> do is reroute the feed wire in the fuse panel to go to some constant-hot
> feed? All you should need is to cut the wire (leave enough on the fuse
> panel end to splice elsewhere) and then splice it to a constantly hot
> wire, like the one coming from the dome lamp, headlight, or 4-way feeds.
> Just be sure to splice it to a *FEED* wire *AHEAD* of the fuse, not
> *AFTER* the fuse (that way, if the cannibalized circuit fuse blows, the
> fed (cig) circuit stays hot). The fuses for each circuit will still
> properly protect each circuit when this is done properly.
>
> This can be done with cheap splice connectors and a crimp tool, $15 for a
> kit.
>
> Alternatively, just wire the cig socket directly to the battery with an
> added inline fuse. There is a grommet in the firewall with a harness fed
> through it that can easily accomodate one more 14 to 16 guage automotive
> wire with no problem.
>
> HIH
> CJ
>

Understood. I think it is kind of dumb that they started doing this in the
first place. I originally through my rear socket was bad until I realized
it was wired to the same circuit. I will do a slightly modified version of
what you are suggesting and run 4 gauge to the rear with a separate deep
cycle battery on its own charging circuit. This could also power my 1200W
inverter along with whatever I needed.

Right now I am going to take a look and see if I can temporarily re-route
the power for the rear socket.

Thanks.

"Circuit Breaker" > wrote in message
news
> On Thu, 10 Jun 2004 10:23:39 -0400, Tony H wrote:
>
> > I had this answered last year or so, but I need it answered again.
> >
> > I have a 1999 Dodge Grand Caravan. As we all know, the cigarette
lighter
> > plugs do not work until the key is either in accessory or in the run
> > position. I am aware that the relay for this is under the hood. I was
told
> > that there was a replacment dummy relay that would leave the power on at
all
> > times. The only thing I did not get was the part number. I was just at
the
> > dealer today and he was not aware of such a relay, but he said if I
could
> > get him a part number, he could order it.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Tony
>
>
> Why pay out your ass for relays that probably control more than just
> the cigarette lighter (probably the radio, the navigation panel (if
> equ.), rear window defogger, windshield wipers) to make all of it work
> without the key in the appropriate position (there is a REASON for
> that, BTW -- unless you like dead batteries) and such when all you need to
> do is reroute the feed wire in the fuse panel to go to some constant-hot
> feed? All you should need is to cut the wire (leave enough on the fuse
> panel end to splice elsewhere) and then splice it to a constantly hot
> wire, like the one coming from the dome lamp, headlight, or 4-way feeds.
> Just be sure to splice it to a *FEED* wire *AHEAD* of the fuse, not
> *AFTER* the fuse (that way, if the cannibalized circuit fuse blows, the
> fed (cig) circuit stays hot). The fuses for each circuit will still
> properly protect each circuit when this is done properly.
>
> This can be done with cheap splice connectors and a crimp tool, $15 for a
> kit.
>
> Alternatively, just wire the cig socket directly to the battery with an
> added inline fuse. There is a grommet in the firewall with a harness fed
> through it that can easily accomodate one more 14 to 16 guage automotive
> wire with no problem.
>
> HIH
> CJ
>

Understood. I think it is kind of dumb that they started doing this in the
first place. I originally through my rear socket was bad until I realized
it was wired to the same circuit. I will do a slightly modified version of
what you are suggesting and run 4 gauge to the rear with a separate deep
cycle battery on its own charging circuit. This could also power my 1200W
inverter along with whatever I needed.

Right now I am going to take a look and see if I can temporarily re-route
the power for the rear socket.

Thanks.

> >
> > Alternatively, just wire the cig socket directly to the battery with an
> > added inline fuse. There is a grommet in the firewall with a harness
fed
> > through it that can easily accomodate one more 14 to 16 guage automotive
> > wire with no problem.
> >
> > HIH
> > CJ
> >
>
> Understood. I think it is kind of dumb that they started doing this in
the
> first place. I originally through my rear socket was bad until I realized
> it was wired to the same circuit. I will do a slightly modified version
of
> what you are suggesting and run 4 gauge to the rear with a separate deep
> cycle battery on its own charging circuit. This could also power my 1200W
> inverter along with whatever I needed.
>
> Right now I am going to take a look and see if I can temporarily re-route
> the power for the rear socket.
>
> Thanks.
Why screw around with a half-a**ed solution?

The kit to change it costs $15-$20 from the dealer w/ instructions, takes
maybe 2 min. to install. and it's done right.
Of course I can't find the part# :-) I put one in my '98 GC

but it should be located in your dealer's accessory catalog under cig/acces.
outlet jumper.

---Greg---

> >
> > Alternatively, just wire the cig socket directly to the battery with an
> > added inline fuse. There is a grommet in the firewall with a harness
fed
> > through it that can easily accomodate one more 14 to 16 guage automotive
> > wire with no problem.
> >
> > HIH
> > CJ
> >
>
> Understood. I think it is kind of dumb that they started doing this in
the
> first place. I originally through my rear socket was bad until I realized
> it was wired to the same circuit. I will do a slightly modified version
of
> what you are suggesting and run 4 gauge to the rear with a separate deep
> cycle battery on its own charging circuit. This could also power my 1200W
> inverter along with whatever I needed.
>
> Right now I am going to take a look and see if I can temporarily re-route
> the power for the rear socket.
>
> Thanks.
Why screw around with a half-a**ed solution?

The kit to change it costs $15-$20 from the dealer w/ instructions, takes
maybe 2 min. to install. and it's done right.
Of course I can't find the part# :-) I put one in my '98 GC

but it should be located in your dealer's accessory catalog under cig/acces.
outlet jumper.

---Greg---

On Thu, 10 Jun 2004 10:23:39 -0400, "Tony H" >
wrote:

>I had this answered last year or so, but I need it answered again.
>
>I have a 1999 Dodge Grand Caravan. As we all know, the cigarette lighter
>plugs do not work until the key is either in accessory or in the run
>position. I am aware that the relay for this is under the hood. I was told
>that there was a replacment dummy relay that would leave the power on at all
>times. The only thing I did not get was the part number. I was just at the
>dealer today and he was not aware of such a relay, but he said if I could
>get him a part number, he could order it.
>
>Thanks,
>Tony
>


Are you sure that all cigarette outlet sockets are dead with the key
off?

On my 2002 Caravan, one stays on all the time, front lower, if I
remember correctly.. Perhaps they changed that on the newer models due
to customer demand.

Doug

On Thu, 10 Jun 2004 10:23:39 -0400, "Tony H" >
wrote:

>I had this answered last year or so, but I need it answered again.
>
>I have a 1999 Dodge Grand Caravan. As we all know, the cigarette lighter
>plugs do not work until the key is either in accessory or in the run
>position. I am aware that the relay for this is under the hood. I was told
>that there was a replacment dummy relay that would leave the power on at all
>times. The only thing I did not get was the part number. I was just at the
>dealer today and he was not aware of such a relay, but he said if I could
>get him a part number, he could order it.
>
>Thanks,
>Tony
>


Are you sure that all cigarette outlet sockets are dead with the key
off?

On my 2002 Caravan, one stays on all the time, front lower, if I
remember correctly.. Perhaps they changed that on the newer models due
to customer demand.

Doug

"Doug" > wrote in message
...
> On Thu, 10 Jun 2004 10:23:39 -0400, "Tony H" >
> wrote:
>
> >I had this answered last year or so, but I need it answered again.
> >
> >I have a 1999 Dodge Grand Caravan. As we all know, the cigarette lighter
> >plugs do not work until the key is either in accessory or in the run
> >position. I am aware that the relay for this is under the hood. I was
told
> >that there was a replacment dummy relay that would leave the power on at
all
> >times. The only thing I did not get was the part number. I was just at
the
> >dealer today and he was not aware of such a relay, but he said if I could
> >get him a part number, he could order it.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Tony
> >
>
>
> Are you sure that all cigarette outlet sockets are dead with the key
> off?
>
> On my 2002 Caravan, one stays on all the time, front lower, if I
> remember correctly.. Perhaps they changed that on the newer models due
> to customer demand.
>
> Doug

I was looking into how the relay is setup and all I need to do is take two
male spade connectors attached to a short 8 gauge wire and short across the
relay (after removing the relay of course).

I think they put the relay in so that smokers would not leave the lighter in
the socket after leaving the vehicle, causing a possible fire hazard. But
now that there are very few smokers and more accessories, I think it is a
great idea to have at least two sockets, one on the relay and one on all the
time. I will modify the rear socket later to be on all the time and put the
relay back in for the front socket.

Thanks for your help.