Mexican 'New Style' Thermo For Cooling Flaps, Any Problems WithThese?

Has anyone had any problems with the Mexican 'New Style' Thermo For
Cooling Flaps?
Problems like, do they jam in the closed position or do they overheat
your upright Type 1 engine?

VWC-043-119-159 - THERMOSTAT - ( NEW STYLE DESIGN - DOES NOT LOOK LIKE
ORIGINAL) ALL BEETLE STYLE ENGINES 62-79

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails....%2D119%2D1 59

On Sep 21, 12:28*pm, wrote:
> Has anyone had any problems with the Mexican 'New Style' Thermo For
> Cooling Flaps?
> Problems like, do they jam in the closed position or do they overheat
> your upright Type 1 engine?
>
> VWC-043-119-159 - THERMOSTAT - ( NEW STYLE DESIGN - DOES NOT LOOK LIKE
> ORIGINAL) ALL BEETLE STYLE ENGINES 62-79
>
> http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails....%2D043%2D119%2....

Well, I installed it.
I have been told that this new style thermo keeps the flaps closed
longer to heat the engine faster for the fuel Injection models.

I made sure that it opened after it warmed up.
It looked like it had opened and I felt warm air flow coming out past
the thermostat.
The outside of the case felt warm to touch but not hot.
I took it for a test drive.
The heater worked after just a couple of miles.
I hope the heads do not get too hot.

With this set up, I guess it won't matter so much if the heat riser is
cloged or not.

I plan to drive it just about five miles or less, in the mornings when
it is cool outside.
Next Spring, when I do not need a heater, I will replace it with the
original German thermostat.

wrote:

> I took it for a test drive.
> The heater worked after just a couple of miles.

Did the new therm change how early the heat started? Heat is generated
by the exhaust of #3 and #1 not head temp. To get the exhaust gases
hotter, I think you'd want to run leaner and/or a more retarded ignition.

On Oct 2, 1:06*pm, David Gravereaux > wrote:
> wrote:
> > I took it for a test drive.
> > The heater worked after just a couple of miles.
>
> Did the new therm change how early the heat started? *Heat is generated
> by the exhaust of #3 and #1 not head temp. *To get the exhaust gases
> hotter, I think you'd want to run leaner and/or a more retarded ignition.

------------------------------
> Did the new therm change how early the heat started?
Yes!

> To get the exhaust gases
> hotter, I think you'd want to run leaner and/or a more retarded ignition.
I do not want to lean it out to make it run hotter.
Gene Berg said do not 'lean it out'.
The instructions that i got to set the timing to was 7.5 btdc with
the vac hose on the SVDA distributor plugged.
What should I set the timing to so it will be retarded?
But, if I do, then that will contradict what John Conolly told me to
do.

On Oct 2, 1:06*pm, David Gravereaux > wrote:
> wrote:
> > I took it for a test drive.
> > The heater worked after just a couple of miles.
>
> Did the new therm change how early the heat started? *Heat is generated
> by the exhaust of #3 and #1 not head temp. *To get the exhaust gases
> hotter, I think you'd want to run leaner and/or a more retarded ignition.

I got most of my information from this:
http://www.vw-resource.com/thermostat.html

To play it safe, I was thinking of buying a
Craftsman Infrared Thermometer with Laser Pointer
Sears item# 03482327000 Mfr. model# 82327
$59.99 US
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_03482327000P

Measuring ratio 1:6 target to distance (1 in. spot at 6 in.)
Accurate to 6 feet
Measures -58 to 518 deg. Farenheit or -20 to 270 deg. Celsius with
2.5% accuracy
LCD displays temp instantly, uses 2 AAA batteries, not included
Max button display maximum measurement

But, what is the maximum safe temp of the cylinder heads?

David Gravereaux wrote:
> wrote:
>
>> I took it for a test drive.
>> The heater worked after just a couple of miles.
>
> Did the new therm change how early the heat started? Heat is generated
> by the exhaust of #3 and #1 not head temp. To get the exhaust gases
> hotter, I think you'd want to run leaner and/or a more retarded ignition.

Rust is an insulator
Are your heater fins rusted

"John J" > wrote in message
m...
> David Gravereaux wrote:
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I took it for a test drive.
>>> The heater worked after just a couple of miles.
>>
>> Did the new therm change how early the heat started? Heat is generated
>> by the exhaust of #3 and #1 not head temp. To get the exhaust gases
>> hotter, I think you'd want to run leaner and/or a more retarded ignition.
>
> Rust is an insulator
> Are your heater fins rusted
>
not if they are factory heatexchangers... the exchanger was not steel...

> wrote in message
...
On Oct 2, 1:06 pm, David Gravereaux > wrote:
> wrote:
> > I took it for a test drive.
> > The heater worked after just a couple of miles.
>
> Did the new therm change how early the heat started? Heat is generated
> by the exhaust of #3 and #1 not head temp. To get the exhaust gases
> hotter, I think you'd want to run leaner and/or a more retarded ignition.

I got most of my information from this:
http://www.vw-resource.com/thermostat.html

To play it safe, I was thinking of buying a
Craftsman Infrared Thermometer with Laser Pointer
Sears item# 03482327000 Mfr. model# 82327
$59.99 US
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_03482327000P

Measuring ratio 1:6 target to distance (1 in. spot at 6 in.)
Accurate to 6 feet
Measures -58 to 518 deg. Farenheit or -20 to 270 deg. Celsius with
2.5% accuracy
LCD displays temp instantly, uses 2 AAA batteries, not included
Max button display maximum measurement

But, what is the maximum safe temp of the cylinder heads?

___________

checking cylinder head temp after stopping or idling is nearly useless....

Joey Tribiani wrote:
> "John J" > wrote in message
> m...
>> David Gravereaux wrote:
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I took it for a test drive.
>>>> The heater worked after just a couple of miles.
>>> Did the new therm change how early the heat started? Heat is generated
>>> by the exhaust of #3 and #1 not head temp. To get the exhaust gases
>>> hotter, I think you'd want to run leaner and/or a more retarded ignition.
>> Rust is an insulator
>> Are your heater fins rusted
>>
> not if they are factory heatexchangers... the exchanger was not steel...

I'm referring to the header pipes inside the heat boxes
They are not steel or iron?

I learn something new every day
Can't help it because I'm just so stupid

On Oct 2, 7:53*pm, John J > wrote:
> Joey Tribiani wrote:
> > "John J" > wrote in message
> om...
> >> David Gravereaux wrote:
> >>> wrote:
>
> >>>> I took it for a test drive.
> >>>> The heater worked after just a couple of miles.
> >>> Did the new therm change how early the heat started? *Heat is generated
> >>> by the exhaust of #3 and #1 not head temp. *To get the exhaust gases
> >>> hotter, I think you'd want to run leaner and/or a more retarded ignition.
> >> Rust is an insulator
> >> Are your heater fins rusted
>
> > not if they are factory heatexchangers... the exchanger was not steel....
>
> I'm referring to the header pipes inside the heat boxes
> They are not steel or iron?
>
> I learn something new every day
> Can't help it because I'm just so stupid

In October 1999 or so, way back when Rocky Mountain Motorworks was
still in business, I got a pair of Dansk made stock heater boxes for
my near stock 1973 Beetle with a 1600cc DP Type I upright. They are
not as well made as the OEM German heater boxes. At least they are not
as heavy. These are all metal. They have a metal heat sink inside.
It is not just a pipe covered with the outside of the heater box. The
OEM German boxes had a ceramic heat sink on the inside of the heater
boxes.