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1988 Honda Accord won't idle when warmed up
On the way to work last week, my Accord died on me when I took it out
of gear (manual trans) as I approached a stop. It restarted but, would not idle unless I held my foot on the accelerator and kept it at about 1000 rpms. When it's cold, it idles fine but as soon as it warms up you can watch the rpms drop and it will die. Restart and hold the accelerator and its fine. I've read that it could be clogged fuel filter(s) or something to do with the carb. I don't have the money to take to someone to have it fixed so, I'll have to do it myself and I don't have the money to replace this and that. BTW it's carburated not fuel injected. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks |
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1988 Honda Accord won't idle when warmed up
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1988 Honda Accord won't idle when warmed up
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1988 Honda Accord won't idle when warmed up
PCV Valve?
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1988 Honda Accord won't idle when warmed up
On Jan 23, 5:31 pm, wrote:
> On the way to work last week, my Accord died on me when I took it out > of gear (manual trans) as I approached a stop. It restarted but, would > not idle unless I held my foot on the accelerator and kept it at about > 1000 rpms. When it's cold, it idles fine but as soon as it warms up > you can watch the rpms drop and it will die. Restart and hold the > accelerator and its fine. I've read that it could be clogged fuel > filter(s) or something to do with the carb. I don't have the money to > take to someone to have it fixed so, I'll have to do it myself and I > don't have the money to replace this and that. BTW it's carburated > not fuel injected. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks When the engine is cold, it runs at higher rpm until the Fast Idle Unloader pulls the fast idle cam. From what i understand, in 86-89 accord carbureted, the FIU is controled by a thermo valve. It seems to be working, changing idle speed as the engine temp changes . The problem is that now the FIU has pulled the cam, then the idle speed depends on the throttle stop screw and throttle cable (TC). A TC hardly needs adjustment but the throttle stop screw is susceptible to shocks and vibrations if not secured properly. I would suggest an adjustment of this item. No tools required ( tool-free style screw) If you can get the desired idle speed after adjusting this, then make sure that the throttle cable has enough free play (deflection) If all fail, then you may need to take a look at the idle mixture screw, but that should be best let to a shop. |
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1988 Honda Accord won't idle when warmed up
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1988 Honda Accord won't idle when warmed up
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1988 Honda Accord won't idle when warmed up
dan ) writes:
> wrote: >> It restarted but, would not idle unless I held my foot on the accelerator > > and kept it at about > > I had a similar problem with my '88 carbureted accord. I would be > driving in stop and go traffic and the engine would just cut out on me. > I could always restart it but like your problem, I would have to keep > it revved up a bit to keep it going. I changed the fuel pump, cleaned > and checked everything I could think of. > > Finally, I was testing the "primary slow mixture cut-off solenoid valve" > on the back of the carburetor. It's held in with one screw. It has one > wire that energizes the solenoid, and it gets its ground from the > connection to the carburetor. Turned out that over time (17+ years > then, 20 now) the grounding went bad or oxidized to the point of > failure. I simply scratched up the surfaces on the solenoid and > carburetor with sandpaper and no more problem. > > I have put this solution out there before, but it can't hurt to post it > again. I hope it helps save a few nice old carbed accords! > > dan For the OP, this ground problem could be ruled out by simply using a lead from a VOM meter. By taking the sharp pointy end of the lead, and getting a good connection on the slow mixture valve (at its bracket where the hold down screw is), and connecting the other end of the lead to the battery negative post, the car would idle, if the ground was the culprit. A helper would be needed to hold the engine speed up, to prevent stalling. With a good connection, the helper lets off the gas pedal, and the engine would then idle. With a manual trans carb Accord, the normal operation of this valve can be felt while driving (its subtle). The valve is suppose to close (no fuel supply to the idle circuit) above 15 MPH/24 [Km/h] (approximately 1700 rpm in second gear). Coast down from 2500 rpm, in second gear, to about 1200 RPM and you can feel the valve open (fuel supplied to the idle circuit) at approximately 1700 rpm. The deceleration from 2500 (or above) down to when the valve opens, is very consistent. When the valve opens (idle circuit now receiving fuel) the deceleration is less (engine receiving a fuel mixture from the idle circuit and providing a little power). A switch on the clutch pedal overrides the fuel cut off (opens the valve) when shifting gears. |
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1988 Honda Accord won't idle when warmed up
Gee, M.A. Stewart wrote:
> > For the OP, this ground problem could be ruled out by simply using > a lead from a VOM meter. By taking the sharp pointy end of the > lead, and getting a good connection on the slow mixture valve > (at its bracket where the hold down screw is), and connecting the > other end of the lead to the battery negative post, the car would > idle, if the ground was the culprit. A helper would be needed to > hold the engine speed up, to prevent stalling. With a good connection, > the helper lets off the gas pedal, and the engine would then idle. > > With a manual trans carb Accord, the normal operation of this valve can be > felt while driving (its subtle). The valve is suppose to close (no fuel > supply to the idle circuit) above 15 MPH/24 [Km/h] (approximately > 1700 rpm in second gear). Coast down from 2500 rpm, in second > gear, to about 1200 RPM and you can feel the valve open (fuel supplied > to the idle circuit) at approximately 1700 rpm. The deceleration from > 2500 (or above) down to when the valve opens, is very consistent. When > the valve opens (idle circuit now receiving fuel) the deceleration is > less (engine receiving a fuel mixture from the idle circuit and providing > a little power). > > A switch on the clutch pedal overrides the fuel cut off (opens the valve) > when shifting gears. > > > Gee, I should have thought of opening the hood in stop and go traffic, jumping out and jambing a lead from a VOM meter into the "slow mixture valve", which I was careful to call the "primary slow mixture cut-off solenoid valve" as in the factory service manual, IN TRAFFIC. It was INTERMITTENT! Meaning it would happen when the car was warm, and when I would least expect it to happen. As the OP said, it only happens when the car is warmed up, or in other words, in TRAFFIC! It's an intermittent ground. They don't like to do bad things when you're watching. I think it is actually a poor design. But that's moot since no Honda has had a carburetor for at least 15 years? (?). dan |
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