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First engine pull



 
 
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  #1  
Old February 8th 05, 06:08 PM
Remco
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default First engine pull

Hi Guys

Well, I got around to pulling the engine out of a 75 bug given to us
last month -- was waiting for a nice day and yesterday was it. Amazing
how easy that is! The hardest part is documenting the connections (it
is a FI model).
Jan Anderson's trick of sliding the engine out the side seems so much
easier than out the back -- it worked great so thanks again. I also
noticed that the engine's top driver's side bolt is easier to get to by
taking the left rear tire off. I could actually see the bolt this way -
I had a hard time finding it, laying under the car.

I'd like to open the case and inspect it, replace bearings, etc.

I did notice some what-looks-like engine oil on the clutch plate, so
this is probably due to a bad engine seal behind the clutch plate,
right? What is a good way to make sure the case is not cracked? Also if
(hopefully not 'when') the case needs to be line bored, where (near CT)
would I get this done?
There's a fair amount of rust on the tins and fan shroud. I've noticed
some relatively inexpensive replacement parts -- are these advisable or
should I clean and reuse the originals?
This one is a FI model. Is there a way to test this engine outside of
the car once I get it all back together?

Lotsa questions - the first of many, I am sure.

Thanks!
Remco

Ads
  #2  
Old February 8th 05, 07:26 PM
Billy Bad Assr©
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Posts: n/a
Default

> Hi Guys
>
> Well, I got around to pulling the engine out of a 75 bug given to us
> last month -- was waiting for a nice day and yesterday was it. Amazing
> how easy that is! The hardest part is documenting the connections (it
> is a FI model).




FI = Fuel Infected!


> Jan Anderson's trick of sliding the engine out the side seems so much
> easier than out the back -- it worked great so thanks again. I also




I can drop a bug engine using a floor jack with 2 stands in 20 minutes flat!

....and 15min flat if carb version - from the rear

with AC -- takes 45 mins!


> noticed that the engine's top driver's side bolt is easier to get to by
> taking the left rear tire off. I could actually see the bolt this way -
> I had a hard time finding it, laying under the car.


> I'd like to open the case and inspect it, replace bearings, etc.
>
> I did notice some what-looks-like engine oil on the clutch plate, so
> this is probably due to a bad engine seal behind the clutch plate,
> right? What is a good way to make sure the case is not cracked?




you must clean the case -- steam clean - then magnuflux case -- cracks will be
at or around cylinder holes and oil pressure valve

also check the (remove valves) heads in the same manner -- cracks will be at
spark plug holes and or between valve seats --


> (hopefully not 'when') the case needs to be line bored, where (near CT)
> would I get this done?
> There's a fair amount of rust on the tins and fan shroud. I've noticed
> some relatively inexpensive replacement parts -- are these advisable or
> should I clean and reuse the originals?




YES - just clean & repaint with hi-heat black paint.

New sheet metal doesn't always fit properly



> This one is a FI model. Is there a way to test this engine outside of
> the car once I get it all back together?




Yes, you can -- is a bit difficult

You will need an engine stand to perform test -- and a way to attach starter,
the electronic fuel pump and several devices that control the fuel infection



> Lotsa questions - the first of many, I am sure.

Bring'em on!



BBA




  #3  
Old February 8th 05, 07:48 PM
Billy Bad Assr©
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Default

> you must clean the case -- steam clean - then magnuflux case -- cracks will be
> at or around cylinder holes and oil pressure valve

forgot -- AND cracks can be found @ or around main bearings
if no inserts -- then at the studs as well!

BBA



  #4  
Old February 8th 05, 09:30 PM
Remco
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Wow -- thanks, Billy!

It took me a couple of hours to pull it out, but I was being very
careful (which was probably not really necessary, in retrospect). I was
particularly paranoid about bending stuff or having forgotten to unhook
something but it all went without a hitch.

Steam cleaning... That's a good idea because this engine is way beyond
filthy! Was debating to power wash it, but steam cleaning is a lot
better.. Also, would I just leave all the stuff on the engine as I get
this done? (alternator, etc)

Magnaflux? I've never had to do this, but I take it that stuff helps
you find cracks? Any auto repair place has it, I take it?

I did get the bugme video on rebuilding the engine and have several
manuals - are there any other gotchas that I need to know? Especially
since this one is fuel injected, are there specific FI things that I
need to look out for?


Thanks!!

  #5  
Old February 9th 05, 01:16 AM
Wolfgang
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Posts: n/a
Default

Before you attempted to pull the engine you should have dragged it to one of
those self service quarter (are the a dollar now) carwashes with the high
pressure hose --- couple iterations and it would be free of grease, oil and
loose paint. The aftermarket tins are crap - doubt they would come close to
fitting a FI engine. ave them sand/media blasted and if you have extra $
powder coated (or buy Eastwood's kit and do it yourself). A machine shop
can hot tank your block and heads and use blue dye to check for cracks - you
want to have them checked out to see if the block needs line boring
anyhow --- and ya need the valves at least lapped.

"Remco" > wrote in message
oups.com...
> Hi Guys
>
> Well, I got around to pulling the engine out of a 75 bug given to us
> last month -- was waiting for a nice day and yesterday was it. Amazing
> how easy that is! The hardest part is documenting the connections (it
> is a FI model).
> Jan Anderson's trick of sliding the engine out the side seems so much
> easier than out the back -- it worked great so thanks again. I also
> noticed that the engine's top driver's side bolt is easier to get to by
> taking the left rear tire off. I could actually see the bolt this way -
> I had a hard time finding it, laying under the car.
>
> I'd like to open the case and inspect it, replace bearings, etc.
>
> I did notice some what-looks-like engine oil on the clutch plate, so
> this is probably due to a bad engine seal behind the clutch plate,
> right? What is a good way to make sure the case is not cracked? Also if
> (hopefully not 'when') the case needs to be line bored, where (near CT)
> would I get this done?
> There's a fair amount of rust on the tins and fan shroud. I've noticed
> some relatively inexpensive replacement parts -- are these advisable or
> should I clean and reuse the originals?
> This one is a FI model. Is there a way to test this engine outside of
> the car once I get it all back together?
>
> Lotsa questions - the first of many, I am sure.
>
> Thanks!
> Remco
>



  #6  
Old February 9th 05, 04:31 AM
Jim Adney
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On 8 Feb 2005 12:30:30 -0800 "Remco" > wrote:

>Magnaflux? I've never had to do this, but I take it that stuff helps
>you find cracks? Any auto repair place has it, I take it?


Magnaflux only works on magnetic materials like steel. Won't show
anything on aluminum or magnesium.

There are other techniques which do work on non-magnetic materials,
however.

-
-----------------------------------------------
Jim Adney
Madison, WI 53711 USA
-----------------------------------------------
  #7  
Old February 9th 05, 05:17 AM
Billy Bad Assr©
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

>> >Magnaflux? I've never had to do this, but I take it that stuff helps
> >you find cracks? Any auto repair place has it, I take it?

>
> Magnaflux only works on magnetic materials like steel. Won't show
> anything on aluminum or magnesium.


Apparently misinformed!!!

You don't know what it is that your talking about


> There are other techniques which do work on non-magnetic materials,
> however.
>

Again, misinformed!!!



Magnaflux uses small metal MAGNETIC particles to bring out the cracks!!!!!

BBA


  #8  
Old February 9th 05, 06:07 AM
Billy Bad Assr©
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

> It took me a couple of hours to pull it out, but I was being very
> careful (which was probably not really necessary, in retrospect). I was
> particularly paranoid about bending stuff or having forgotten to unhook
> something but it all went without a hitch.
>
> Steam cleaning... That's a good idea because this engine is way beyond
> filthy! Was debating to power wash it, but steam cleaning is a lot
> better.. Also, would I just leave all the stuff on the engine as I get
> this done? (alternator, etc)


no -- remove intake manifold, alternator/Generator, distributor -- entire
ignition system should be removed
use a screw drive to break off all the crud -- then use steam cleaner device --
don't spray anything electrical

> Magnaflux? I've never had to do this, but I take it that stuff helps
> you find cracks? Any auto repair place has it, I take it?


no - http://www.magnaflux.com goto: sales and find a dealer near you -- you
want one can of their dry magnaflux. - cost per each can is not cheap!
>
> I did get the bugme video on rebuilding the engine and have several
> manuals - are there any other gotchas that I need to know? Especially
> since this one is fuel injected, are there specific FI things that I
> need to look out for?
>


1). Keep those injectors in a clean place

2). Make sure that you mark each piston rod -- each rod should depict the
cylinder # as well the direction in the case -- create a mark on both the end
cap and the rod to ensure that the cap gets back to the correct rod! -- Don't
mismatch rod caps

3) Make sure that you remove all the main bearing as well as rod bearings

4) The alternator pulley shaft has a "half moon" key -- don't loose it! -- use a
large screw driver - angle it -- tip is on pulley @ a slight angle. Use a large
mallet, hit the end of screw driver handle HARD several times -- should come
right off - a puller will take an hour to remove pulley -- screw driver method
takes minutes

5) Have the crankshaft mains checked for size and roughened -- use 320 grit
emery clothe - procedure is known as "crankshaft blue-printing"

6) use 10mm off-set wrench to remove oil cooler (2 nuts) don't use water to
clean out - use gasoline only

7) There are 4 possibly 5 main bearing pins -- use vise grips to remove -- don't
loose them!!!

8) make sure that you remove oil pressure check valves and their springs

9) your heads valve guides/seats were made for leaded gasoline -- have them R/R
to Unleaded type

10) if you have the head rebuilt (I recomend that yuou do) -- have the exhaust
valves replaced with new ones

can't think of anything else


--
BBA
°?°
BBA's RC Site - http://www.billybadassrc.com
When Privacy Matters -- http://www.epic.org


  #9  
Old February 9th 05, 06:38 AM
Joey Tribiani
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Billy Bad Assr©" > wrote in message
...
> >> >Magnaflux? I've never had to do this, but I take it that stuff helps
> > >you find cracks? Any auto repair place has it, I take it?

> >
> > Magnaflux only works on magnetic materials like steel. Won't show
> > anything on aluminum or magnesium.

>
> Apparently misinformed!!!
>
> You don't know what it is that your talking about
>


and you only know half of what you are talking about....you are not
misinformed you are just uninformed..
>
> > There are other techniques which do work on non-magnetic materials,
> > however.
> >

> Again, misinformed!!!
>
>
>
> Magnaflux uses small metal MAGNETIC particles to bring out the cracks!!!!!
>


Billy isn't quite the badass he believes he is...magnaflux does not use
"small metal MAGNETIC particles" to bring out cracks....iron powder....the
metal testing needs to be ferrous(look it up) to work with magnetic particle
inspection....you won't find much iron in an aluminum cylinderhead therefore
the part needs to be blasted or sonic cleaned the use a dye penetrant test
on the surface....before you shoot off your mouth, especially to someone
that has more experience than you(I.E.Jim Abney) you should do your
homework....you have looked damn silly several times in the last few
days...Leory brown maybe, but not billy badass, thats for sure....


  #10  
Old February 9th 05, 06:56 AM
Joey Tribiani
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Billy Bad Assr©" > wrote in message
...
> > Magnaflux? I've never had to do this, but I take it that stuff helps
> > you find cracks? Any auto repair place has it, I take it?

>
> no - http://www.magnaflux.com goto: sales and find a dealer near you --

you
> want one can of their dry magnaflux. - cost per each can is not cheap!


dye penetrant....common for nonferrous metals such as aluminum or
magnesium...you surely aren't confusing the name "magnaflux" with the
process that has become known as "magnafluxing" are you?(note: Magnaflux is
the brand name of the top producing magnetic particle inspection equipment
for the past five decades, hence the "xerox" syndrome)


>
> 1). Keep those injectors in a clean place
>
> 2). Make sure that you mark each piston rod -- each rod should depict the
> cylinder # as well the direction in the case -- create a mark on both the

end
> cap and the rod to ensure that the cap gets back to the correct rod! --

Don't
> mismatch rod caps


the factory rods have cast in marks for "direction"...no need to mark for
that...


>
> 3) Make sure that you remove all the main bearing as well as rod bearings
>
> 4) The alternator pulley shaft has a "half moon" key -- don't loose it! --

use a
> large screw driver - angle it -- tip is on pulley @ a slight angle. Use a

large
> mallet, hit the end of screw driver handle HARD several times -- should

come
> right off - a puller will take an hour to remove pulley -- screw driver

method
> takes minutes


4b) buy new pulley to replace bent one from using procedure "4"


>
> 5) Have the crankshaft mains checked for size and roughened -- use 320

grit
> emery clothe - procedure is known as "crankshaft blue-printing"


"checked for size and roughened" does not equate "crankshaft
blue-printing"...you are "apparently misinformed"....

>
> 6) use 10mm off-set wrench to remove oil cooler (2 nuts) don't use water

to
> clean out - use gasoline only


good luck stretching that 10mm wrench around the nuts on a 75's oil
cooler...make a video, i wanna see it....are you perhaps "misinformed"?

>
> 7) There are 4 possibly 5 main bearing pins -- use vise grips to remove --

don't
> loose them!!!


hell you think you know the rest of it, pick a number and stick to it, even
if its wrong(stating wrong info hasn't been a problem for you so far)

> 8) make sure that you remove oil pressure check valves and their springs
>
> 9) your heads valve guides/seats were made for leaded gasoline -- have

them R/R
> to Unleaded type


"apparently misinformed"....."You don't know what it is that your talking
about" the heads on every vw aircooled head after approximately 1965 had
hardened valve seats for use with unleaded gasoline....
>
> 10) if you have the head rebuilt (I recomend that yuou do) -- have the

exhaust
> valves replaced with new ones
>
> can't think of anything else


maybe go to a shop and ask em to "magnaflux" the heads...then run off when
they start laughing?

sure hope Remco does his homework instead of just believing everything you
tell him....

>
> --
> BBA
> °?°
> BBA's RC Site - http://www.billybadassrc.com
> When Privacy Matters -- http://www.epic.org
>
>



 




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