synthetic oil...

Lots has been posted about the advantages of using synthetic oil. Any
reason to switch to synthetic after 150k miles? I have the I6, and would
like to protect the engine as much as possible.

thanks

cal

sorry about the double post. I received an error with the first one. looks
like it made it anyway..

cal

"Cal" > wrote in message
. ..
> Lots has been posted about the advantages of using synthetic oil. Any
> reason to switch to synthetic after 150k miles? I have the I6, and would
> like to protect the engine as much as possible.
>
> thanks
>
> cal
>
>
>

Cal proclaimed:
> Lots has been posted about the advantages of using synthetic oil. Any
> reason to switch to synthetic after 150k miles? I have the I6, and would
> like to protect the engine as much as possible.

The I-6 doesn't have the ultra tight tolerances where a synth is pretty
much required to keep lubrication film available. However, there is no
real reason not to go either synth or synth blend at your mileage. If
you get small amounts of leak increase you could switch brand, fix the
seals, or add a bit of Marvell/STP blend. You can extend change
intervals a bit with either swap. Might be worth checking the result by
dropping a bit of the new oil out of the pan shortly after the switch to
see if it is loosening crud--in which case just change it and the filter
until that stops. I converted to synth blend at about 45K then just
went full synth at about 70K and haven't had any leak issues other than
that cheap plastic valve cover that went away on replacement.

Do you *need* it? No, your engine was designed for the older oils and
their change intervals. Does it extend the life? Dunno--the engine is
pretty long lived on ordinary dino pee with reasonable change intervals.
Is it your engine and your choice? You answer.

Lon wrote:
> Cal proclaimed:
> > Lots has been posted about the advantages of using synthetic oil. Any
> > reason to switch to synthetic after 150k miles? I have the I6, and would
> > like to protect the engine as much as possible.
>
> The I-6 doesn't have the ultra tight tolerances where a synth is pretty
> much required to keep lubrication film available. However, there is no
> real reason not to go either synth or synth blend at your mileage. If
> you get small amounts of leak increase you could switch brand, fix the
> seals, or add a bit of Marvell/STP blend. You can extend change
> intervals a bit with either swap. Might be worth checking the result by
> dropping a bit of the new oil out of the pan shortly after the switch to
> see if it is loosening crud--in which case just change it and the filter
> until that stops. I converted to synth blend at about 45K then just
> went full synth at about 70K and haven't had any leak issues other than
> that cheap plastic valve cover that went away on replacement.
>

Synthetic oils-Amsoil is as good as any-are a big benefit under the
most severe temperature or duty cycle fluctuations, and under extreme
stress provided the film is kept intact. The downsides are that seals
for reciprocating engines are engineered for petroleum and not
synthetic oils, also petroleum oils have superior contaminant bearing
and corrosionproofing qualities.

Engines with substantial operating time on them should always be kept
on whatever they are already on unless changing oils can solve specific
known problems-and you are willing to redo the seals. Otherwise, wait
until the engine is apart before changing.

Bret Ludwig wrote:
>
> Lon wrote:
> > Cal proclaimed:
> > > Lots has been posted about the advantages of using synthetic oil. Any
> > > reason to switch to synthetic after 150k miles? I have the I6, and would
> > > like to protect the engine as much as possible.
> >
> > The I-6 doesn't have the ultra tight tolerances where a synth is pretty
> > much required to keep lubrication film available. However, there is no
> > real reason not to go either synth or synth blend at your mileage. If
> > you get small amounts of leak increase you could switch brand, fix the
> > seals, or add a bit of Marvell/STP blend. You can extend change
> > intervals a bit with either swap. Might be worth checking the result by
> > dropping a bit of the new oil out of the pan shortly after the switch to
> > see if it is loosening crud--in which case just change it and the filter
> > until that stops. I converted to synth blend at about 45K then just
> > went full synth at about 70K and haven't had any leak issues other than
> > that cheap plastic valve cover that went away on replacement.
> >
>
> Synthetic oils-Amsoil is as good as any-are a big benefit under the
> most severe temperature or duty cycle fluctuations, and under extreme
> stress provided the film is kept intact. The downsides are that seals
> for reciprocating engines are engineered for petroleum and not
> synthetic oils, also petroleum oils have superior contaminant bearing
> and corrosionproofing qualities.
>
> Engines with substantial operating time on them should always be kept
> on whatever they are already on unless changing oils can solve specific
> known problems-and you are willing to redo the seals. Otherwise, wait
> until the engine is apart before changing.

Now you are showing yourself as a total fool.

The 'good as any' snake oil you are promoting will void any
manufacturers warranty because it does not meet 'any' automotive
standards.

Someone once gave me a case of the 'spamsoil' crap because no one was
stupid enough to buy it from him, we 'like' our engines around here. I
trashed it at the recyclers for him...

That said there are very few 'real' synthetics on the market. The
makers went to court to get the definition of 'synthetic' changed so
they could slap the synthetic label on anything weaker than raw crude
oil that has been 'refined' and charge 4 times extra for the pretty
label.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

thanks for all the replies! I'm staying with my regular oil. I don't have
any specific problem that I am trying to help, just wanting to keep my I6
problem free as long as possible!

cal


"Mike Romain" > wrote in message
...
> Bret Ludwig wrote:
>>
>> Lon wrote:
>> > Cal proclaimed:
>> > > Lots has been posted about the advantages of using synthetic oil.
>> > > Any
>> > > reason to switch to synthetic after 150k miles? I have the I6, and
>> > > would
>> > > like to protect the engine as much as possible.
>> >
>> > The I-6 doesn't have the ultra tight tolerances where a synth is pretty
>> > much required to keep lubrication film available. However, there is
>> > no
>> > real reason not to go either synth or synth blend at your mileage. If
>> > you get small amounts of leak increase you could switch brand, fix the
>> > seals, or add a bit of Marvell/STP blend. You can extend change
>> > intervals a bit with either swap. Might be worth checking the result
>> > by
>> > dropping a bit of the new oil out of the pan shortly after the switch
>> > to
>> > see if it is loosening crud--in which case just change it and the
>> > filter
>> > until that stops. I converted to synth blend at about 45K then just
>> > went full synth at about 70K and haven't had any leak issues other than
>> > that cheap plastic valve cover that went away on replacement.
>> >
>>
>> Synthetic oils-Amsoil is as good as any-are a big benefit under the
>> most severe temperature or duty cycle fluctuations, and under extreme
>> stress provided the film is kept intact. The downsides are that seals
>> for reciprocating engines are engineered for petroleum and not
>> synthetic oils, also petroleum oils have superior contaminant bearing
>> and corrosionproofing qualities.
>>
>> Engines with substantial operating time on them should always be kept
>> on whatever they are already on unless changing oils can solve specific
>> known problems-and you are willing to redo the seals. Otherwise, wait
>> until the engine is apart before changing.
>
> Now you are showing yourself as a total fool.
>
> The 'good as any' snake oil you are promoting will void any
> manufacturers warranty because it does not meet 'any' automotive
> standards.
>
> Someone once gave me a case of the 'spamsoil' crap because no one was
> stupid enough to buy it from him, we 'like' our engines around here. I
> trashed it at the recyclers for him...
>
> That said there are very few 'real' synthetics on the market. The
> makers went to court to get the definition of 'synthetic' changed so
> they could slap the synthetic label on anything weaker than raw crude
> oil that has been 'refined' and charge 4 times extra for the pretty
> label.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Mike Romain wrote:

>
> Now you are showing yourself as a total fool.
>
> The 'good as any' snake oil you are promoting will void any
> manufacturers warranty because it does not meet 'any' automotive
> standards.
>
> Someone once gave me a case of the 'spamsoil' crap because no one was
> stupid enough to buy it from him, we 'like' our engines around here. I
> trashed it at the recyclers for him...
>
> That said there are very few 'real' synthetics on the market. The
> makers went to court to get the definition of 'synthetic' changed so
> they could slap the synthetic label on anything weaker than raw crude
> oil that has been 'refined' and charge 4 times extra for the pretty
> label.

I don't sell AmsOil. I have used their products, also Klotz and
Bel-Ray and others, for specific jobs, and they all worked as
advertised.

Aeroshell AD oil does not meet any automotive standards either but if
you are running a pushrod gasoline burning air coold engine it's
nevertheless the stuff to use.

You just have a hard one for Amsoil. The fact is that with specific
exceptions it works okay or better. And it's less expensive and more
available than specialist products like Bel-Ray or Klotz.

Bret Ludwig wrote:
> You just have a hard one for Amsoil.

Actually he has a "hard one" for anything new

--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein

Simon Juncal wrote:
>
> Bret Ludwig wrote:
> > You just have a hard one for Amsoil.
>
> Actually he has a "hard one" for anything new
>
> --
> Simon
> "I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein

ROTFLMAO!

You think 'snake oil' is 'new', man oh man, it has been around since man
first learned how to rip off man!

I just don't think we need people on this group that promote ripping off
people.

Just because 'there is a sucker born every day' doesn't mean I have to
tolerate the Scam artists. Especially slime like Spamsoil droids.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Ditto.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
http://www.billhughes.com/

Mike Romain wrote:
>
> ROTFLMAO!
>
> You think 'snake oil' is 'new', man oh man, it has been around since man
> first learned how to rip off man!
>
> I just don't think we need people on this group that promote ripping off
> people.
>
> Just because 'there is a sucker born every day' doesn't mean I have to
> tolerate the Scam artists. Especially slime like Spamsoil droids.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)