Need your advice on a good inside automotive tire patch

wrote:
> On Tue, 8 Dec 2015 04:30:55 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
> > wrote:
>
>> clare wrote, on Mon, 07 Dec 2015 21:11:02 -0500:
>>
>>> Get that on the front of a twitchy little sedam like a BMW320 with
>>> only a static ballance, and your hands will get a good massage from
>>> the steering wheel, even if the bumper doesn't jump.
>>
>> I fully and completely understand.
>> But, at least in my ONE (single!) test of 5 tires on 5 rims, it didn't happen.
> You didn't need 1.5 oz to static and 4 to dynamic balance - so you
> got lucky. (and you haven't had all 5 on the front yet either - you
> might still get a surpeise!!
>
I just shake my head. I thought Bimmer drivers are some intelligent
people who understand basics of vehicle. When you mount tires you
rotate tires on the wheel to minimize the use of balancing weight.

On Tue, 8 Dec 2015 21:09:16 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
> wrote:

>Oren wrote, on Tue, 08 Dec 2015 10:36:10 -0800:
>
>> Pool pump repair may take up to 500 postings.
>> Same with garage door repairs.
>> Danny does do his research
>
>Hi Oren,
>
>The number of posts don't matter (that just means I'm responsive).
>What matters is what *we* learn. Together.
>And, how we help each other.
>
>And I *always* appreciate your help and that from the others!
>And, well, I learned far too much today!
>
>Bad news!
>The tire is ruined.
>
>Why?
>I'm soooooooo stupid.
>So very stupid.
>It's all my fault.
>
>However, the good news is that I *learned* a lot!
>And, there's much (much) more to learn about patching tires properly!
>
>I have to run to pick up my sister's kids (they're staying with us
>"temporarily" for the past year - which is ok with me - as long as
>my sister's latest loser boyfriend doesn't get on our nerves!), so
>I haven't uploaded the pictures yet, but, I'm gonna *experiment*
>with the tire, since I ruined it already.
>
>It turns out that a proper patch requires some special tools
>and materials, such as explained in this quickie procedure.
>
>1. Mark the hole outside and inside (circle 1/2" outside patch area)
>2. Inspect for damage (no visible treads on the inside)
>3. Probe the angle & thickness of the hole with a tapered awl
>4. Optionally put down a solvent to remove the inside coat
>5. Optionally use a half-moon scraper to scrape to vulcanized rubber
>6. Buff with a semicircular tire-buffing wheel (2500to5000rpm only!)
>7. CRITICAL! Three passes both ways with a carbide cutter!<=== critical!
>8. Brass bristle brush and/or vacuum away shavings
>9. Fill the hole with cement and around the patch area (to chalk circle)
>10 DO NOT TOUCH THE STEM OF THE PATCHPLUG!
>11. Pull patchplug through the hole until it slightly dimples
>12. Roll a round serrated stitcher across every mm of the patch
>13. Optionally add a tire liner sealer to the inside
>14. Cut the rubber stem flush outside.
>
>Most of the tools I might get away with a dremel tool (on super low
>speed) but I think the main tool that I need to buy is the
>carbide bit which is a special bit to smooth down the sharp ends
>of the cut belt.
>
>Have you seen these tools in a kit?
>a. Half-moon scraper
>b. Semicircular buffing wheel
>c. Carbide cutter <=== very important
>d. Stitcher wheel
>
>Anyway, I'll be back, as I took pictures, but I have to run to pick up
>the kids.
Not so smart now, I see.

Better to pay somebody to do it right (particularly with safety
related stuff like tires and brakes)

On Tue, 8 Dec 2015 22:43:27 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
> wrote:

>clare wrote, on Tue, 08 Dec 2015 17:22:27 -0500:
>
>> Not yet - but next year. And ALL cars with dynamic stability control
>> tell you you need to have all tires matching.
>>
>> But what the heck - it's your car. Drive with 4 different sized tires
>> and pay your repair bills.
>
>You seem to have everything wrong, but I don't know where you get
>your ideas from.
>
>I was never talking about putting the wrong *size* on the car or even
>different sizes on the same axle, or even on different axles.
>
>If you inferred that, I never said (nor implied it).
Different brand tires of the same size, or tires with differing wear
amounts amount to the same thing. On AWD cars, and cars with dynamic
traction control, you ALWAYS replace tires 4 at a time.

On Tue, 8 Dec 2015 15:53:21 -0700, Tony Hwang >
wrote:

wrote:
>> On Tue, 8 Dec 2015 04:29:34 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
>> > wrote:
>>
>>> clare wrote, on Mon, 07 Dec 2015 21:05:14 -0500:
>>>
>>>> It's a lot more important on cars with all wheel drive and fancy
>>>> stability/traction control.
>>>>
>>>> They were NOT snowing him.
>>>
>>> I wouldn't "think" of driving any car without all four tires
>>> "matching" in tread pattern and brand and model.
>>>
>>> I still don't see why a Subaru is any different than any
>>> other vehicle, AWD or otherwise.
>
>Because you don't know the anatomy of Subaru system yet.
>
>>
>> AWD has 3 differentials. Different diameter tires cause the
>> differentials to "work" all the time. If they have limited slip or
>> traction control, the different sized wheels turn at different speeds
>> and confuse the heck out of everything.
>
>Most likely causing damage.
>
>>> What the heck does AWD have to do with it anyway?
>>> All decent cars have stability control (and have had them
>>> for a decade or more).
>>>
>>> Mine, for example, is a dozen years old and it has DSC, and,
>>> all cars, by law, I think nowadays, have stability control.
>>
>> Not yet - but next year. And ALL cars with dynamic stability control
>> tell you you need to have all tires matching.
>>
>> But what the heck - it's your car. Drive with 4 different sized tires
>> and pay your repair bills.
>
>When differential gets busted.
>
>>> So, what's different about a Subaru (except the marketing
>>> team wants you to "think" they're "special").
>
>One hint Subaru system does not have power torque. Ever driven xDrive?
>That is BMW system.
>Try it once and experience power torque. Jeeps too. Ever do off-roading?
>Some times ignorance is even dangerous.
By "power torque" you mean "torque steer"
And you are right!!

wrote:
> On Mon, 7 Dec 2015 13:13:01 -0500, "Ralph Mowery"
> > wrote:
>
>>
>> "Danny D." > wrote in message
>> ...
>>> Ralph Mowery wrote, on Mon, 07 Dec 2015 12:44:04 -0500:
>>>
>>>
>>> Yikes! I hate Sears! I promised myself in 1981 that I'd *never* go
>>> to Sears ever again! I tell everyone *not* to go to Sears!
>>>
>>>>
>>> Turns out, they mechanic *ADMITTED* he didn't do a thing!
>>> He said his charts only went back 10 years and my car was 11 years
>>> old! Can you believe that.
>>>
>>> I should have complained to high heaven and gotten a refund.
>>> I just let them re-align it.
>>>
>>> I wasn't as crotchety when I was young, but I would have complained
>>> to the district attorney or something had I been the age I am now.
>>>
>>> It's criminal what Sears does to rip off people.
>>> Absolutely criminal.
>>>
>>> I watch all my alignments like a hawk watching a mouse now.
>>> Sears sucks. I will *never* ever go to Sears for the rest of my
>>> life, and I make sure everyone knows how bad they are.
>>>
>>> The're criminals.
>>> I'm sorry you worked there, and I do apologize for the diatribe.
>>> It's not your fault they are criminals. It's their fault.
>>>
>>
>> I was about 19 at the time. Just a part time job while in school.
>> I don't know about the quality of work, but at that store I know they did
>> make an attempt at doing whatever was suspose to be done, maybe others
>> don't.
>>
>> I do know lots of places will rip you off. Local Ford dealer did to a
>> friend. He took a car with a V8 to get the plugs changed. It came back
>> with the same miss in the engine it had. They only changed 7 plugs as the
>> 8th was very hard to get to. He went back and complained and was asked how
>> he knew the plug was not changed. He said because 7 were of one brand and
>> the hard to get to was another.
>>
>> I hate that a local 'shade tree mechanic' got too old and quit. He was an
>> honest man and good at what he did. I had him to do several jobs for me
>> like changing a timing belt. He recommended a few othe things such as the
>> water pump as it was driven by the belt and all it was 4 bolts to do it.
>> Said it would not be any more labor and just his cost of the part. Bet not
>> many if any dealers would do that.
>>
>>
> Actually quite a few would. I know mine did. It's the only way to keep
> customers. Treet them like GOLD. The car salesman sells a customer
> his first car from the dealership. The service department sells him
> the next - and thel

Only dealers my family deals with is Bimmer, Subaru, Acura. They do
excellent jobs selling/trading/servicing. If they screw you even by a
mistake, they know they will lose you to the other dealer at the other
part of the city. All 3 we deal with are family owned.

On Tue, 8 Dec 2015 21:09:16 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
> wrote:

>Oren wrote, on Tue, 08 Dec 2015 10:36:10 -0800:
>
>> Pool pump repair may take up to 500 postings.
>> Same with garage door repairs.
>> Danny does do his research
>
>Hi Oren,
>
>The number of posts don't matter (that just means I'm responsive).
>What matters is what *we* learn. Together.
>And, how we help each other.
>
>And I *always* appreciate your help and that from the others!
>And, well, I learned far too much today!
>
>Bad news!
>The tire is ruined.
>
>Why?
>I'm soooooooo stupid.
>So very stupid.
>It's all my fault.
>
>However, the good news is that I *learned* a lot!
>And, there's much (much) more to learn about patching tires properly!
>
>I have to run to pick up my sister's kids (they're staying with us
>"temporarily" for the past year - which is ok with me - as long as
>my sister's latest loser boyfriend doesn't get on our nerves!), so
>I haven't uploaded the pictures yet, but, I'm gonna *experiment*
>with the tire, since I ruined it already.
>
>It turns out that a proper patch requires some special tools
>and materials, such as explained in this quickie procedure.
>
>1. Mark the hole outside and inside (circle 1/2" outside patch area)
>2. Inspect for damage (no visible treads on the inside)
>3. Probe the angle & thickness of the hole with a tapered awl
>4. Optionally put down a solvent to remove the inside coat
>5. Optionally use a half-moon scraper to scrape to vulcanized rubber
>6. Buff with a semicircular tire-buffing wheel (2500to5000rpm only!)
>7. CRITICAL! Three passes both ways with a carbide cutter!<=== critical!
>8. Brass bristle brush and/or vacuum away shavings
>9. Fill the hole with cement and around the patch area (to chalk circle)
>10 DO NOT TOUCH THE STEM OF THE PATCHPLUG!
>11. Pull patchplug through the hole until it slightly dimples
>12. Roll a round serrated stitcher across every mm of the patch
>13. Optionally add a tire liner sealer to the inside
>14. Cut the rubber stem flush outside.
>
>Most of the tools I might get away with a dremel tool (on super low
>speed) but I think the main tool that I need to buy is the
>carbide bit which is a special bit to smooth down the sharp ends
>of the cut belt.
>
>Have you seen these tools in a kit?
>a. Half-moon scraper
>b. Semicircular buffing wheel
>c. Carbide cutter <=== very important
>d. Stitcher wheel
>
>Anyway, I'll be back, as I took pictures, but I have to run to pick up
>the kids.

The last time I repaired a tire ( punch thru of a screw which I yanked
out) I bought a kit with rubber plugs and rubber cement. Greased the
hole with cement, put the plug on the inserter tool, shoved it thru
form the outside and withdrew the tool. That repair and tire lasted
another 20K miles.

On 12/8/2015 5:55 PM, wrote:
> On Tue, 8 Dec 2015 14:11:17 -0500, Ed Pawlowski > wrote:
>
>> On 12/7/2015 11:38 PM, Danny D. wrote:
>>> clare wrote, on Mon, 07 Dec 2015 21:52:49 -0500:
>>>
>>>> What's the difference between a Bimmer and a Beemer????
>>>
>>> Big difference.
>>> Anyone saying the wrong word is an idiot poser.
>>
>>
>>> Here is a decent description:
>>> http://www.boston-bmwcca.org/referen...er-beemer.aspx
>>>
>>> BTW, it doesn't matter what *you* (or I) think; it matters that anyone
>>> who knows anything about bimmers or beemers know this, and anyone who
>>> knows absolutely nothing about bimmers or beemers doesn't know this.
>>>
>>
>> Truth is, most of us don't give a damn. 90% of the owners are snobs no
>> matter what you call a BMW.
> What's the difference between a BMW and a Porcupine??
>
Eggsacktaly!

On 12/8/2015 6:21 PM, wrote:

> Different brand tires of the same size, or tires with differing wear
> amounts amount to the same thing. On AWD cars, and cars with dynamic
> traction control, you ALWAYS replace tires 4 at a time.
>

Historically I've been bad about rotating tires but have done OK with
the last couple of cars. It does pay to have them wear evenly though
and now that I have AWD I'll be more vigilant.

When the original tires go I'll probably get Nokian WRG3 again. I rally
liked them on my last car.

My first car was a '53 Mercury. Only bought one used or re-cap tire at
a time as needed.

On Tue, 8 Dec 2015 21:20:37 -0500, Ed Pawlowski > wrote:

>On 12/8/2015 6:21 PM, wrote:
>
>> Different brand tires of the same size, or tires with differing wear
>> amounts amount to the same thing. On AWD cars, and cars with dynamic
>> traction control, you ALWAYS replace tires 4 at a time.
>>
>
>Historically I've been bad about rotating tires but have done OK with
>the last couple of cars. It does pay to have them wear evenly though
>and now that I have AWD I'll be more vigilant.
>
>When the original tires go I'll probably get Nokian WRG3 again. I rally
>liked them on my last car.
>
>My first car was a '53 Mercury. Only bought one used or re-cap tire at
>a time as needed.
With directional tires you just switch front to back - not a full
rotate (and I've never done/liked full rotation on radial tires (or
even the old bias belted tires)

I've never replaced tires one at a time - and untill the Ranger I'd
never installed used tires. The alloy rims I bought for it (torque
thrust style Eagle Alloys) came with a decent set of Coopers that I
drove for a year, and I got a set of Hak R2 SUVs with one season of
use for a good price so I put them on for this winter. Should last me
for another 4 or 5 winters.

On 12/08/2015 03:57 PM, wrote:
> It is a BMW whether it has 2 wheels or 4. Bimmer or Beemer are both
> just *******izations of the same name.

Hard to get to either from Bayerische.