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#1
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Changing rear diff fluid (91 XJ): don't want to R&R the diff cover...
What about pumping out the old fluid through the fill hole? Would this be
OK? I guess if there were any metal particles in the fluid the pump wouldn't pick them up? -- Remove nospam to email |
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#2
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Doug did pass the time by typing:
> What about pumping out the old fluid through the fill hole? Would this be > OK? I guess if there were any metal particles in the fluid the pump wouldn't > pick them up? It works just fine for routine changes and when you don't want to inspect anything. Make your life a bit easier and get a good quality suction gun/pump and collection jar. I use a glass jar because to get the lube out easily you should take a nice drive for a few miles to heat up the lube. -- DougW |
#3
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I always recommend opening up the cover for the first change and then
figure pumping is safe after. The first change will have metal in it, subsequent changes should only be needed to pump out water. Don't forget to follow the directions on the gasket sealer/maker you use. Lots like RTV need 24 hours to cure before you add fluid to insure they don't leak. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Doug wrote: > > What about pumping out the old fluid through the fill hole? Would this be > OK? I guess if there were any metal particles in the fluid the pump wouldn't > pick them up? > > -- > Remove nospam to email |
#4
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Thanks Mike, the rear cover is going to have to come off then.
-- Remove nospam to email "Mike Romain" > wrote in message ... >I always recommend opening up the cover for the first change and then > figure pumping is safe after. > > The first change will have metal in it, subsequent changes should only > be needed to pump out water. > > Don't forget to follow the directions on the gasket sealer/maker you > use. Lots like RTV need 24 hours to cure before you add fluid to insure > they don't leak. > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > Doug wrote: >> >> What about pumping out the old fluid through the fill hole? Would this be >> OK? I guess if there were any metal particles in the fluid the pump >> wouldn't >> pick them up? >> >> -- >> Remove nospam to email |
#5
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What is the aversion to removing the diff cover?
Raise the vehicle by the frame and let the axle hang, remove the bolts, but leave a couple in to hold the cover on, insert a putty knife and let the oil drain out. "Doug" > wrote in message ... > What about pumping out the old fluid through the fill hole? Would this be > OK? I guess if there were any metal particles in the fluid the pump wouldn't > pick them up? > > -- > Remove nospam to email > > |
#6
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This is the only vehicle I have and it takes 24 hours for the RTV to dry.
-- Remove nospam to email "Jeff Strickland" > wrote in message ... > What is the aversion to removing the diff cover? > > Raise the vehicle by the frame and let the axle hang, remove the bolts, > but > leave a couple in to hold the cover on, insert a putty knife and let the > oil > drain out. > > > > "Doug" > wrote in message > ... >> What about pumping out the old fluid through the fill hole? Would this be >> OK? I guess if there were any metal particles in the fluid the pump > wouldn't >> pick them up? >> >> -- >> Remove nospam to email >> >> > > |
#7
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I put a spot light or portable electric heater pointed right at the
cover if I want to push it and say fill it early next morning or when the temp is really cold out. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Doug wrote: > > This is the only vehicle I have and it takes 24 hours for the RTV to dry. > > -- > Remove nospam to email > "Jeff Strickland" > wrote in message > ... > > What is the aversion to removing the diff cover? > > > > Raise the vehicle by the frame and let the axle hang, remove the bolts, > > but > > leave a couple in to hold the cover on, insert a putty knife and let the > > oil > > drain out. > > > > > > > > "Doug" > wrote in message > > ... > >> What about pumping out the old fluid through the fill hole? Would this be > >> OK? I guess if there were any metal particles in the fluid the pump > > wouldn't > >> pick them up? > >> > >> -- > >> Remove nospam to email > >> > >> > > > > |
#8
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Doug did pass the time by typing:
> This is the only vehicle I have and it takes 24 hours for the RTV to dry. They make fast set RTV. http://www.permatex.com/ Check the package for Hylomar HPF, I think it's ready in under 12 hours. -- DougW |
#9
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DougW wrote:
> Doug did pass the time by typing: > >>This is the only vehicle I have and it takes 24 hours for the RTV to dry. > > > They make fast set RTV. http://www.permatex.com/ > Check the package for Hylomar HPF, I think it's ready > in under 12 hours. > Or use gasket shellac, should set in a very short time. John |
#10
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You're scarring me, that's not that stuff that sets rock hard, that
uses about ninety percent of my engine rebuilding time chiseling off, is it? God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O http://www.billhughes.com/ JohnM wrote: > > Or use gasket shellac, should set in a very short time. > > John |
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