Update on 'I made a real mess"

First of all.. I love my Corvette and I really like this Newsgroup.


Just to thank all that responded to my timing chain cover disaster on my '77
vette. I managed to get the job done and I have a real feeling of
accomplishment after changing out the timing chain and gears etc. I put in a
rebuilt waterpump at the same time and watched it leak due to a rebuild
malfunction (factory screw up) of some sort....( was leaking out the back
seal....wierd!). I replaced it this afternoon....car runs like a dream....no
more leaks! (this is me patting myself on the back )
PROBLEM:
Something that I have in this Vette is an air conditioner that simply
needs a freon charge. I can't get a '70's freon charge due to enviromental
laws so decided not to run a belt to the Air Conditioning pump.....just
leave it be...why wrap a belt around something when it will never get used
and I will save some energy.
The problem I have with that is now my Alternator belt that used to
share the work to turn the fan with the A/C unit is now gone since I
disconected it... so when I rev up the motor the fan pulley squeeks....any
helpfull hints on that?


My next challenge with this vette is brake calipers. I have two leaking
(front and rear on the passenger side of the car). I will not **** around
(cheap out) on brakes so I bought all 4 calipers complete with all new brake
pads to the tune of about 800 dollars...so new brakes all the way around. I
am using a Hanes manual that I feel will help me with this project. However
if there are any brake guru's out there that may offer any words of wisdom I
would appreciate your input. Thanks...Jim

Brakes... It sounds like you want to do it right and be done with it for a
long time.
So, also replace all of the brake hoses (about $60 for all four) and the
master cylinder (or you can have the old one sleeved and/or seals replaced).

Belts... Some old belts become glazed and will squeak no matter the tension.
Try a new one... Or go back with the a/c belt. It doesn't take much power to
run the compressor idler pulley and helps even the load on the water pump
bearing... Consider using a drop in replacement refrigerant like 'Freeze
12'. It may work for you, or at least let you troubleshoot the system before
spending more on a conversion or R12.

Thanks for the follow-up. Always like to know how things worked out.
Q: Did the pan take thick or thin end seals?... - Joe



"Jim M" <jim> wrote in message ...
> First of all.. I love my Corvette and I really like this Newsgroup.
>
>
> Just to thank all that responded to my timing chain cover disaster on my
> '77 vette. I managed to get the job done and I have a real feeling of
> accomplishment after changing out the timing chain and gears etc. I put in
> a rebuilt waterpump at the same time and watched it leak due to a rebuild
> malfunction (factory screw up) of some sort....( was leaking out the back
> seal....wierd!). I replaced it this afternoon....car runs like a
> dream....no more leaks! (this is me patting myself on the back )
> PROBLEM:
> Something that I have in this Vette is an air conditioner that simply
> needs a freon charge. I can't get a '70's freon charge due to enviromental
> laws so decided not to run a belt to the Air Conditioning pump.....just
> leave it be...why wrap a belt around something when it will never get used
> and I will save some energy.
> The problem I have with that is now my Alternator belt that used to
> share the work to turn the fan with the A/C unit is now gone since I
> disconected it... so when I rev up the motor the fan pulley
> squeeks....any helpfull hints on that?
>
>
> My next challenge with this vette is brake calipers. I have two leaking
> (front and rear on the passenger side of the car). I will not **** around
> (cheap out) on brakes so I bought all 4 calipers complete with all new
> brake pads to the tune of about 800 dollars...so new brakes all the way
> around. I am using a Hanes manual that I feel will help me with this
> project. However if there are any brake guru's out there that may offer
> any words of wisdom I would appreciate your input. Thanks...Jim
>

Brakes... It sounds like you want to do it right and be done with it for a
long time.
So, also replace all of the brake hoses (about $60 for all four) and the
master cylinder (or you can have the old one sleeved and/or seals replaced).

Belts... Some old belts become glazed and will squeak no matter the tension.
Try a new one... Or go back with the a/c belt. It doesn't take much power to
run the compressor idler pulley and helps even the load on the water pump
bearing... Consider using a drop in replacement refrigerant like 'Freeze
12'. It may work for you, or at least let you troubleshoot the system before
spending more on a conversion or R12.

Thanks for the follow-up. Always like to know how things worked out.
Q: Did the pan take thick or thin end seals?... - Joe



"Jim M" <jim> wrote in message ...
> First of all.. I love my Corvette and I really like this Newsgroup.
>
>
> Just to thank all that responded to my timing chain cover disaster on my
> '77 vette. I managed to get the job done and I have a real feeling of
> accomplishment after changing out the timing chain and gears etc. I put in
> a rebuilt waterpump at the same time and watched it leak due to a rebuild
> malfunction (factory screw up) of some sort....( was leaking out the back
> seal....wierd!). I replaced it this afternoon....car runs like a
> dream....no more leaks! (this is me patting myself on the back )
> PROBLEM:
> Something that I have in this Vette is an air conditioner that simply
> needs a freon charge. I can't get a '70's freon charge due to enviromental
> laws so decided not to run a belt to the Air Conditioning pump.....just
> leave it be...why wrap a belt around something when it will never get used
> and I will save some energy.
> The problem I have with that is now my Alternator belt that used to
> share the work to turn the fan with the A/C unit is now gone since I
> disconected it... so when I rev up the motor the fan pulley
> squeeks....any helpfull hints on that?
>
>
> My next challenge with this vette is brake calipers. I have two leaking
> (front and rear on the passenger side of the car). I will not **** around
> (cheap out) on brakes so I bought all 4 calipers complete with all new
> brake pads to the tune of about 800 dollars...so new brakes all the way
> around. I am using a Hanes manual that I feel will help me with this
> project. However if there are any brake guru's out there that may offer
> any words of wisdom I would appreciate your input. Thanks...Jim
>

"Jim M" <jim> wrote in message ...
First of all.. I love my Corvette and I really like this Newsgroup.


Just to thank all that responded to my timing chain cover disaster on my '77
vette. I managed to get the job done and I have a real feeling of
accomplishment after changing out the timing chain and gears etc. I put in a
rebuilt waterpump at the same time and watched it leak due to a rebuild
malfunction (factory screw up) of some sort....( was leaking out the back
seal....wierd!). I replaced it this afternoon....car runs like a dream....no
more leaks! (this is me patting myself on the back )
PROBLEM:
Something that I have in this Vette is an air conditioner that simply
needs a freon charge. I can't get a '70's freon charge due to enviromental
laws so decided not to run a belt to the Air Conditioning pump.....just
leave it be...why wrap a belt around something when it will never get used
and I will save some energy.
The problem I have with that is now my Alternator belt that used to
share the work to turn the fan with the A/C unit is now gone since I
disconected it... so when I rev up the motor the fan pulley squeeks....any
helpfull hints on that?


My next challenge with this vette is brake calipers. I have two leaking
(front and rear on the passenger side of the car). I will not **** around
(cheap out) on brakes so I bought all 4 calipers complete with all new brake
pads to the tune of about 800 dollars...so new brakes all the way around. I
am using a Hanes manual that I feel will help me with this project. However
if there are any brake guru's out there that may offer any words of wisdom I
would appreciate your input. Thanks...Jim



Since you are going to so much detail on the brakes, you might as well go
one step further and replace the lines with stainless steel. It's a worthy
upgrade. And you should drain and flush the system and start over with all
new higher temp brake fluid. Only thing else I could suggest, I would
assume you have already done, like inspect the rotors to make sure they
aren't burn't, warped or over worn, check that your bearing are fine (you
might repack them with grease while you have the wheels off) and check your
master cylinder and booster.

--
Charlie
!993 Corvette Convertible

"Jim M" <jim> wrote in message ...
First of all.. I love my Corvette and I really like this Newsgroup.


Just to thank all that responded to my timing chain cover disaster on my '77
vette. I managed to get the job done and I have a real feeling of
accomplishment after changing out the timing chain and gears etc. I put in a
rebuilt waterpump at the same time and watched it leak due to a rebuild
malfunction (factory screw up) of some sort....( was leaking out the back
seal....wierd!). I replaced it this afternoon....car runs like a dream....no
more leaks! (this is me patting myself on the back )
PROBLEM:
Something that I have in this Vette is an air conditioner that simply
needs a freon charge. I can't get a '70's freon charge due to enviromental
laws so decided not to run a belt to the Air Conditioning pump.....just
leave it be...why wrap a belt around something when it will never get used
and I will save some energy.
The problem I have with that is now my Alternator belt that used to
share the work to turn the fan with the A/C unit is now gone since I
disconected it... so when I rev up the motor the fan pulley squeeks....any
helpfull hints on that?


My next challenge with this vette is brake calipers. I have two leaking
(front and rear on the passenger side of the car). I will not **** around
(cheap out) on brakes so I bought all 4 calipers complete with all new brake
pads to the tune of about 800 dollars...so new brakes all the way around. I
am using a Hanes manual that I feel will help me with this project. However
if there are any brake guru's out there that may offer any words of wisdom I
would appreciate your input. Thanks...Jim



Since you are going to so much detail on the brakes, you might as well go
one step further and replace the lines with stainless steel. It's a worthy
upgrade. And you should drain and flush the system and start over with all
new higher temp brake fluid. Only thing else I could suggest, I would
assume you have already done, like inspect the rotors to make sure they
aren't burn't, warped or over worn, check that your bearing are fine (you
might repack them with grease while you have the wheels off) and check your
master cylinder and booster.

--
Charlie
!993 Corvette Convertible

Some words of caution here. See inline:

"Charlie" > wrote in message
...
>> "Jim M" <jim> wrote in message ...
>> PROBLEM:
>> Something that I have in this Vette is an air conditioner that
simply
>> needs a freon charge. I can't get a '70's freon charge due to
enviromental
>> laws so decided not to run a belt to the Air Conditioning pump.....just
>> leave it be...why wrap a belt around something when it will never get
used
>> and I will save some energy.
>> The problem I have with that is now my Alternator belt that used
to
>> share the work to turn the fan with the A/C unit is now gone since I
>> disconected it... so when I rev up the motor the fan pulley
squeeks....any
>> helpfull hints on that?

If you leave a compressor uncharged, eventually it will seize with corrosion
and become useless. They are not cheap to replace, so you are lowering the
value to let it go, in case you ever sell in the future.

If I remember, you are in Canada. I'm surprized they do not allow the R12
installed in a licensed shop. But I'd think they would still have the R134
conversions allowed. I don't think the R134 conversion is al that cold, and
Vettes weren't all that well cooled by AC anyway, but it is better than
leaving it empty. For one reason, it is how the defroster works best. GM
used the AC to dry the warm defroster air so the windshield could clear.

If you are not that awfully far from the border, plan a trip to the US and
have R12 installed.

At the minumum, put the belt back on, tension doens't have to be critically
tight, just snug, and unplug the connect at the compressor to prevent it
coming on. The pulley will run fine but you really need to refill the
freon.

The compressors are recommended to be run every few weeks to keep all lubed
and running, even in winter. So sitting is the same as throwing it away.


>> My next challenge with this vette is brake calipers. I have two leaking
>> (front and rear on the passenger side of the car). I will not **** around
>> (cheap out) on brakes so I bought all 4 calipers complete with all new
brake
>> pads to the tune of about 800 dollars...so new brakes all the way around.
I
>> am using a Hanes manual that I feel will help me with this project.
However
>> if there are any brake guru's out there that may offer any words of
wisdom I
>> would appreciate your input. Thanks...Jim
>
>
> Since you are going to so much detail on the brakes, you might as well go
> one step further and replace the lines with stainless steel. It's a
worthy
> upgrade. And you should drain and flush the system and start over with
all
> new higher temp brake fluid. Only thing else I could suggest, I would
> assume you have already done, like inspect the rotors to make sure they
> aren't burn't, warped or over worn, check that your bearing are fine (you
> might repack them with grease while you have the wheels off) and check
your
> master cylinder and booster.
>

Brakes are basically unbolt and bolt back on. Bleed and go.

I recommend gravity bleeding. Set the car on four jack stands, pull all
four tires, and set drip pans under each brake.

Crack open a front bleeder and a rear bleeder. Let them drip for awhile,
until you see nice clean clear fluid. BE SURE TO KEEP THE MASTER CYLINDER
FULL! If the MC runs out, then you have a long bleed coming to clear the
air all the way through the lines. Close and open the next bleeder.

There are two bleeders in front, four in back. You must do all six.

DO NOT TURN THE ROTORS! 95% of all turned on an old Corvette cause problems
rather than help. The rotor and hub or spindle MUST be turned as a unit,
not separately. DO NOT DRILL OUT THE RIVETS! If you already have, or
someone else did, then you have to use a dial indicator and set the runout
of the rotor by bolting them tight, checking runout, and then shimming
between the hub and rotor until runout is within tolerance.

If you are concerned with a glaze on the rotors, take a 60 to 120 grit
sandpaper on a block and wipe by hand on the rotor surfaces. By hand with a
block, you will not remove enough metal to warp or cup the rotor, but should
clear any glazing or rust coating.

Run the Corvette standard organic pads. Metallic will eat the rotor and
will not give any improved performance on the street. They will be murder
in the cold and will squeal all the time. If you want performance
aftermarket, go with Ferrodo organic pads.

Brake lines:
While stainless steel are nice, they really are unnecessary and are not much
fun to install if the body is on the frame. Really, no brake lines are fun
unless the body is off the frame.

Some words of caution here. See inline:

"Charlie" > wrote in message
...
>> "Jim M" <jim> wrote in message ...
>> PROBLEM:
>> Something that I have in this Vette is an air conditioner that
simply
>> needs a freon charge. I can't get a '70's freon charge due to
enviromental
>> laws so decided not to run a belt to the Air Conditioning pump.....just
>> leave it be...why wrap a belt around something when it will never get
used
>> and I will save some energy.
>> The problem I have with that is now my Alternator belt that used
to
>> share the work to turn the fan with the A/C unit is now gone since I
>> disconected it... so when I rev up the motor the fan pulley
squeeks....any
>> helpfull hints on that?

If you leave a compressor uncharged, eventually it will seize with corrosion
and become useless. They are not cheap to replace, so you are lowering the
value to let it go, in case you ever sell in the future.

If I remember, you are in Canada. I'm surprized they do not allow the R12
installed in a licensed shop. But I'd think they would still have the R134
conversions allowed. I don't think the R134 conversion is al that cold, and
Vettes weren't all that well cooled by AC anyway, but it is better than
leaving it empty. For one reason, it is how the defroster works best. GM
used the AC to dry the warm defroster air so the windshield could clear.

If you are not that awfully far from the border, plan a trip to the US and
have R12 installed.

At the minumum, put the belt back on, tension doens't have to be critically
tight, just snug, and unplug the connect at the compressor to prevent it
coming on. The pulley will run fine but you really need to refill the
freon.

The compressors are recommended to be run every few weeks to keep all lubed
and running, even in winter. So sitting is the same as throwing it away.


>> My next challenge with this vette is brake calipers. I have two leaking
>> (front and rear on the passenger side of the car). I will not **** around
>> (cheap out) on brakes so I bought all 4 calipers complete with all new
brake
>> pads to the tune of about 800 dollars...so new brakes all the way around.
I
>> am using a Hanes manual that I feel will help me with this project.
However
>> if there are any brake guru's out there that may offer any words of
wisdom I
>> would appreciate your input. Thanks...Jim
>
>
> Since you are going to so much detail on the brakes, you might as well go
> one step further and replace the lines with stainless steel. It's a
worthy
> upgrade. And you should drain and flush the system and start over with
all
> new higher temp brake fluid. Only thing else I could suggest, I would
> assume you have already done, like inspect the rotors to make sure they
> aren't burn't, warped or over worn, check that your bearing are fine (you
> might repack them with grease while you have the wheels off) and check
your
> master cylinder and booster.
>

Brakes are basically unbolt and bolt back on. Bleed and go.

I recommend gravity bleeding. Set the car on four jack stands, pull all
four tires, and set drip pans under each brake.

Crack open a front bleeder and a rear bleeder. Let them drip for awhile,
until you see nice clean clear fluid. BE SURE TO KEEP THE MASTER CYLINDER
FULL! If the MC runs out, then you have a long bleed coming to clear the
air all the way through the lines. Close and open the next bleeder.

There are two bleeders in front, four in back. You must do all six.

DO NOT TURN THE ROTORS! 95% of all turned on an old Corvette cause problems
rather than help. The rotor and hub or spindle MUST be turned as a unit,
not separately. DO NOT DRILL OUT THE RIVETS! If you already have, or
someone else did, then you have to use a dial indicator and set the runout
of the rotor by bolting them tight, checking runout, and then shimming
between the hub and rotor until runout is within tolerance.

If you are concerned with a glaze on the rotors, take a 60 to 120 grit
sandpaper on a block and wipe by hand on the rotor surfaces. By hand with a
block, you will not remove enough metal to warp or cup the rotor, but should
clear any glazing or rust coating.

Run the Corvette standard organic pads. Metallic will eat the rotor and
will not give any improved performance on the street. They will be murder
in the cold and will squeal all the time. If you want performance
aftermarket, go with Ferrodo organic pads.

Brake lines:
While stainless steel are nice, they really are unnecessary and are not much
fun to install if the body is on the frame. Really, no brake lines are fun
unless the body is off the frame.

Please see in line remarks
Mark
"Tom in Missouri" > wrote in message
k.net...
> Some words of caution here. See inline:
>
> "Charlie" > wrote in message
> ...
>>> "Jim M" <jim> wrote in message
>>> ...
>>> PROBLEM:
>>> Something that I have in this Vette is an air conditioner that
> simply
>>> needs a freon charge. I can't get a '70's freon charge due to
> enviromental
>>> laws so decided not to run a belt to the Air Conditioning pump.....just
>>> leave it be...why wrap a belt around something when it will never get
> used
>>> and I will save some energy.
>>> The problem I have with that is now my Alternator belt that used
> to
>>> share the work to turn the fan with the A/C unit is now gone since I
>>> disconected it... so when I rev up the motor the fan pulley
> squeeks....any
>>> helpfull hints on that?
>
> If you leave a compressor uncharged, eventually it will seize with
> corrosion
> and become useless. They are not cheap to replace, so you are lowering
> the
> value to let it go, in case you ever sell in the future.
>
> If I remember, you are in Canada. I'm surprized they do not allow the R12
> installed in a licensed shop. But I'd think they would still have the
> R134
> conversions allowed. I don't think the R134 conversion is al that cold,
> and
> Vettes weren't all that well cooled by AC anyway, but it is better than
> leaving it empty. For one reason, it is how the defroster works best. GM
> used the AC to dry the warm defroster air so the windshield could clear.
>
> If you are not that awfully far from the border, plan a trip to the US and
> have R12 installed.
>
> At the minumum, put the belt back on, tension doens't have to be
> critically
> tight, just snug, and unplug the connect at the compressor to prevent it
> coming on. The pulley will run fine but you really need to refill the
> freon.
Not having any freon in the compressor and having the pulley turn via the
belt, the compressor will eventually sieze up. I am currently replacing the
ac compressor on our church van (94 GMC) that was ran with no freon.
>
> The compressors are recommended to be run every few weeks to keep all
> lubed
> and running, even in winter. So sitting is the same as throwing it away.
>
>
>>> My next challenge with this vette is brake calipers. I have two leaking
>>> (front and rear on the passenger side of the car). I will not ****
>>> around
>>> (cheap out) on brakes so I bought all 4 calipers complete with all new
> brake
>>> pads to the tune of about 800 dollars...so new brakes all the way
>>> around.
> I
>>> am using a Hanes manual that I feel will help me with this project.
> However
>>> if there are any brake guru's out there that may offer any words of
> wisdom I
>>> would appreciate your input. Thanks...Jim
>>
>>
>> Since you are going to so much detail on the brakes, you might as well go
>> one step further and replace the lines with stainless steel. It's a
> worthy
>> upgrade. And you should drain and flush the system and start over with
> all
>> new higher temp brake fluid. Only thing else I could suggest, I would
>> assume you have already done, like inspect the rotors to make sure they
>> aren't burn't, warped or over worn, check that your bearing are fine (you
>> might repack them with grease while you have the wheels off) and check
> your
>> master cylinder and booster.
>>
>
> Brakes are basically unbolt and bolt back on. Bleed and go.
>
> I recommend gravity bleeding. Set the car on four jack stands, pull all
> four tires, and set drip pans under each brake.
>
> Crack open a front bleeder and a rear bleeder. Let them drip for awhile,
> until you see nice clean clear fluid. BE SURE TO KEEP THE MASTER CYLINDER
> FULL! If the MC runs out, then you have a long bleed coming to clear the
> air all the way through the lines. Close and open the next bleeder.
>
> There are two bleeders in front, four in back. You must do all six.
>
> DO NOT TURN THE ROTORS! 95% of all turned on an old Corvette cause
> problems
> rather than help. The rotor and hub or spindle MUST be turned as a unit,
> not separately. DO NOT DRILL OUT THE RIVETS! If you already have, or
> someone else did, then you have to use a dial indicator and set the runout
> of the rotor by bolting them tight, checking runout, and then shimming
> between the hub and rotor until runout is within tolerance.
>
> If you are concerned with a glaze on the rotors, take a 60 to 120 grit
> sandpaper on a block and wipe by hand on the rotor surfaces. By hand with
> a
> block, you will not remove enough metal to warp or cup the rotor, but
> should
> clear any glazing or rust coating.
>
> Run the Corvette standard organic pads. Metallic will eat the rotor and
> will not give any improved performance on the street. They will be murder
> in the cold and will squeal all the time. If you want performance
> aftermarket, go with Ferrodo organic pads.
>
> Brake lines:
> While stainless steel are nice, they really are unnecessary and are not
> much
> fun to install if the body is on the frame. Really, no brake lines are
> fun
> unless the body is off the frame.
>

Please see in line remarks
Mark
"Tom in Missouri" > wrote in message
k.net...
> Some words of caution here. See inline:
>
> "Charlie" > wrote in message
> ...
>>> "Jim M" <jim> wrote in message
>>> ...
>>> PROBLEM:
>>> Something that I have in this Vette is an air conditioner that
> simply
>>> needs a freon charge. I can't get a '70's freon charge due to
> enviromental
>>> laws so decided not to run a belt to the Air Conditioning pump.....just
>>> leave it be...why wrap a belt around something when it will never get
> used
>>> and I will save some energy.
>>> The problem I have with that is now my Alternator belt that used
> to
>>> share the work to turn the fan with the A/C unit is now gone since I
>>> disconected it... so when I rev up the motor the fan pulley
> squeeks....any
>>> helpfull hints on that?
>
> If you leave a compressor uncharged, eventually it will seize with
> corrosion
> and become useless. They are not cheap to replace, so you are lowering
> the
> value to let it go, in case you ever sell in the future.
>
> If I remember, you are in Canada. I'm surprized they do not allow the R12
> installed in a licensed shop. But I'd think they would still have the
> R134
> conversions allowed. I don't think the R134 conversion is al that cold,
> and
> Vettes weren't all that well cooled by AC anyway, but it is better than
> leaving it empty. For one reason, it is how the defroster works best. GM
> used the AC to dry the warm defroster air so the windshield could clear.
>
> If you are not that awfully far from the border, plan a trip to the US and
> have R12 installed.
>
> At the minumum, put the belt back on, tension doens't have to be
> critically
> tight, just snug, and unplug the connect at the compressor to prevent it
> coming on. The pulley will run fine but you really need to refill the
> freon.
Not having any freon in the compressor and having the pulley turn via the
belt, the compressor will eventually sieze up. I am currently replacing the
ac compressor on our church van (94 GMC) that was ran with no freon.
>
> The compressors are recommended to be run every few weeks to keep all
> lubed
> and running, even in winter. So sitting is the same as throwing it away.
>
>
>>> My next challenge with this vette is brake calipers. I have two leaking
>>> (front and rear on the passenger side of the car). I will not ****
>>> around
>>> (cheap out) on brakes so I bought all 4 calipers complete with all new
> brake
>>> pads to the tune of about 800 dollars...so new brakes all the way
>>> around.
> I
>>> am using a Hanes manual that I feel will help me with this project.
> However
>>> if there are any brake guru's out there that may offer any words of
> wisdom I
>>> would appreciate your input. Thanks...Jim
>>
>>
>> Since you are going to so much detail on the brakes, you might as well go
>> one step further and replace the lines with stainless steel. It's a
> worthy
>> upgrade. And you should drain and flush the system and start over with
> all
>> new higher temp brake fluid. Only thing else I could suggest, I would
>> assume you have already done, like inspect the rotors to make sure they
>> aren't burn't, warped or over worn, check that your bearing are fine (you
>> might repack them with grease while you have the wheels off) and check
> your
>> master cylinder and booster.
>>
>
> Brakes are basically unbolt and bolt back on. Bleed and go.
>
> I recommend gravity bleeding. Set the car on four jack stands, pull all
> four tires, and set drip pans under each brake.
>
> Crack open a front bleeder and a rear bleeder. Let them drip for awhile,
> until you see nice clean clear fluid. BE SURE TO KEEP THE MASTER CYLINDER
> FULL! If the MC runs out, then you have a long bleed coming to clear the
> air all the way through the lines. Close and open the next bleeder.
>
> There are two bleeders in front, four in back. You must do all six.
>
> DO NOT TURN THE ROTORS! 95% of all turned on an old Corvette cause
> problems
> rather than help. The rotor and hub or spindle MUST be turned as a unit,
> not separately. DO NOT DRILL OUT THE RIVETS! If you already have, or
> someone else did, then you have to use a dial indicator and set the runout
> of the rotor by bolting them tight, checking runout, and then shimming
> between the hub and rotor until runout is within tolerance.
>
> If you are concerned with a glaze on the rotors, take a 60 to 120 grit
> sandpaper on a block and wipe by hand on the rotor surfaces. By hand with
> a
> block, you will not remove enough metal to warp or cup the rotor, but
> should
> clear any glazing or rust coating.
>
> Run the Corvette standard organic pads. Metallic will eat the rotor and
> will not give any improved performance on the street. They will be murder
> in the cold and will squeal all the time. If you want performance
> aftermarket, go with Ferrodo organic pads.
>
> Brake lines:
> While stainless steel are nice, they really are unnecessary and are not
> much
> fun to install if the body is on the frame. Really, no brake lines are
> fun
> unless the body is off the frame.
>

Thanks again to all that replied... I dunno weather my brake pads are
organic or metal ...but I did buy the most expensive ones...there was a set
for 35 bucks and a set for 55 bucks...I paid for the 55 dollar set and they
are made by Raebestos. I didn't know that a metalic set of shoes would eat
the rotors, but it only makes sense when you think about it. BTW my rotors
are in excellent shape. Good Idea to repack the wheel bearings while I'm
there.
I don't think I am going to change the brake lines as there is nothing
wrong with them. Stainless lines would be great but at this time are not
needed.
You guys have talked me into wrapping a belt around the A/C unit and I
never thought about going to the States for a recharge...Hell of a good idea
as I only live about an hours drive from the Montana or N Dakota borders. I
will take a cruise down there this spring for sure. I do also want to retain
the value of the vehicle.
I am going to try to gravity bleed the brakes but am going to do the
rear first then the front (not enough jack stands). The car will be level
though as I have run the front end up on ramps.
Well I better get back to the city as the parts guy gave me one wrong
caliper . I also have to buy a proper 3/8" brake line wrench so I don't
round off the nuts ...Will ask if my pads are metallic or organic.
Thanks all to replied and I really am taking your suggestions
seriously.

Jim....In Saskatchewan, Canada