things to look for when buying a 68 mustang

I am going to check out a 68 mustang 302 2V P/S,P/B,A/C. The owner
said he has replaced the engine, rebuilt the C4, and replaced many
parts in the engine bay and has reupholstered the interior. He thinks
the body is rust free and straight.

I'm not looking to restore, just have a nice daily driver. Mostly I
don't want to be eaten up replacing seals and knobs and fixing shorts.
I would like to take a checklist with me, things to look for that
cost over $100 to fix.

Does anyone have or can anyone point me to a 100 or 200 items
checklist? Failing that, just sharing some individual experiences
would be greatly appreciated.

Putts

"Dinsdale" > wrote in message
...
> On 20 Nov 2004 09:31:52 -0800, (puttster)
> wrote:
>
> >I am going to check out a 68 mustang 302 2V P/S,P/B,A/C. The owner
> >said he has replaced the engine, rebuilt the C4, and replaced many
> >parts in the engine bay and has reupholstered the interior. He thinks
> >the body is rust free and straight.
> >
> >I'm not looking to restore, just have a nice daily driver. Mostly I
> >don't want to be eaten up replacing seals and knobs and fixing shorts.
> > I would like to take a checklist with me, things to look for that
> >cost over $100 to fix.
> >
> >Does anyone have or can anyone point me to a 100 or 200 items
> >checklist? Failing that, just sharing some individual experiences
> >would be greatly appreciated.
> >
> >Putts
>
> (ok...don't take offense but the sarcasm is kicking in.)
> Only 100-200 huh?
>
> Seems to me that if you want to check a couple hundred things on a
> 36yr old car you would need to know quite a bit about cars in general
> just to know what you're checking....which would lead me to think you
> don't really need much help just common sense about used cars.
> Either that or you are just one thorough person.
>
> (sarcasm wearing off)
>
> If you're the latter and not up on the mechanical aspects search for a
> local mustang/car club or shop that deals with older cars and ask for
> someone to check out the car with you...$20-50 should get you some
> informed help.
>
> (sarcasm nearly gone)
>
> If you are the former then take along (at least) a flashlight, a
> decent sized screwdriver, and a refrigerator magnet.
> When checking the car...drive it far enough to get it hot. While
> driving turn on every electrical device you can - i.e. blinker;
> hazards; interior lights; dash lights; heater fan; etc (trying to blow
> a fuse).
> Keep an eye on the exhaust...blue smoke means burning oil; black smoke
> means carb/fuel problems.
> Check basic drive ability. How does it idle? Does it stumble off the
> line? Does the trans shift nicely? Is the steering loose? Does it
> drift? (alignment drift is not good; smoking the tires around a corner
> on a control power slide is)
> You'll also want to do some panic stops...check the brakes for
> pulling, spongy pedal, fade.
>
> Once your test drive is done take the flashlight and start looking
> under the car for fluid drips. Check the front and oil pan gasket.
> Take off the trans inspection plate, if there's oil there it could be
> the rear main seal or (if it's red) the tranny pump seal.
> Check the master cylinder for the fluid condition (muddy=bad;
> clear=good) If you have the time and tools take the brake drums off
> and look for leaking wheel cylinders, or leaking axle seals .
>
> Are we at 200 yet?
>
> The screwdriver is used to probe the frame and floor panels for
> rust-through.
>
> Place the magnet in various places on the body...especially low ,
> behind the wheel arches..if it doesn't stick it's a good sign of body
> filler.
>
> You could also bring a voltmeter and check battery voltage, alternator
> output.
>
> (sarcasm off)
> And on a final note: here's a website checklist that might fit your
> needs:
> http://www.classic-cars-worldwide.com/testdrive.html
>
> Damn...I could have saved so much time by just posting the link. But
> what's the fun in that!!! (smartass mode kicked in)
>
> Hava goodun.
>
> DP
> http://tinyurl.com/4fcsn

Thanks. I also heard bring a tape measure and see it the front wheelwells
are the some height. Yesterday I walked past an old car that had the faint
smell of a smoking engine, something I had not smelled in a while but I
recall was quite common in the olden days. With a rebuilt engine with 3,000
miles on it, should I smell anything like that or should it smell clean?
I have a vaccuum gauge and the instructions, I was thinking of bringing
that but not sure where exactly is the best place to plug it in.

Why requote the entire post?

DC