Lug nut stuck on lug - I'm up the creek.

"JB" > wrote in message
...
>
>
> I was changing my wheels from the oversize ones that came with my
> truck (bought it used) to normal size wheels. I've changed 3 tires,
> but 1 I can't get off because one of the 8 "lug nuts" is stuck on the
> lug.
>
> The oversize tire's "lug nuts" use a special adapter that goes inside
> the "lug nut" (American Racing wheels) to turn it off the "lug".
>
> The problem is worse because it is not only stuck, but now the "lug
> nut" has cracked, so the adapter turns freely inside.
>
> What are my options?
>
> Can I drill it out? Anything to watch out for?
>
> Would a tap help also?
>
> Can I drill all the way through the bolt? Then what?
>
> This is on the driver side rear wheel, will I damage the brakes?
>
> Maybe I need an arc welder to just burn the lug and bolt off?
>
>
> Sorry for all the questions, but I going crazy over this.
>
>
> Please post reply.

6" pipe wrench with a cheater always works.

Coasty

save yourself alot of time and money and stay away from drilling it out. you
will break the bit and be ****ed off.





"Coasty" > wrote in message
news
>
> "JB" > wrote in message
> ...
>>
>>
>> I was changing my wheels from the oversize ones that came with my
>> truck (bought it used) to normal size wheels. I've changed 3 tires,
>> but 1 I can't get off because one of the 8 "lug nuts" is stuck on the
>> lug.
>>
>> The oversize tire's "lug nuts" use a special adapter that goes inside
>> the "lug nut" (American Racing wheels) to turn it off the "lug".
>>
>> The problem is worse because it is not only stuck, but now the "lug
>> nut" has cracked, so the adapter turns freely inside.
>>
>> What are my options?
>>
>> Can I drill it out? Anything to watch out for?
>>
>> Would a tap help also?
>>
>> Can I drill all the way through the bolt? Then what?
>>
>> This is on the driver side rear wheel, will I damage the brakes?
>>
>> Maybe I need an arc welder to just burn the lug and bolt off?
>>
>>
>> Sorry for all the questions, but I going crazy over this.
>>
>>
>> Please post reply.
>
> 6" pipe wrench with a cheater always works.
>
> Coasty
>

so what's your suggestion for him ?


"honk_on_bobo" > wrote in message
newsrFmf.80$b57.2@trndny06...
>
>
> save yourself alot of time and money and stay away from drilling it out.
you
> will break the bit and be ****ed off.
>
>
>
>
>
> "Coasty" > wrote in message
> news
> >
> > "JB" > wrote in message
> > ...
> >>
> >>
> >> I was changing my wheels from the oversize ones that came with my
> >> truck (bought it used) to normal size wheels. I've changed 3 tires,
> >> but 1 I can't get off because one of the 8 "lug nuts" is stuck on the
> >> lug.
> >>
> >> The oversize tire's "lug nuts" use a special adapter that goes inside
> >> the "lug nut" (American Racing wheels) to turn it off the "lug".
> >>
> >> The problem is worse because it is not only stuck, but now the "lug
> >> nut" has cracked, so the adapter turns freely inside.
> >>
> >> What are my options?
> >>
> >> Can I drill it out? Anything to watch out for?
> >>
> >> Would a tap help also?
> >>
> >> Can I drill all the way through the bolt? Then what?
> >>
> >> This is on the driver side rear wheel, will I damage the brakes?
> >>
> >> Maybe I need an arc welder to just burn the lug and bolt off?
> >>
> >>
> >> Sorry for all the questions, but I going crazy over this.
> >>
> >>
> >> Please post reply.
> >
> > 6" pipe wrench with a cheater always works.
> >
> > Coasty
> >
>
>

On Sat, 10 Dec 2005 19:52:49 -0700, "robs440" > wrote:

>so what's your suggestion for him ?
>
>
>"honk_on_bobo" > wrote in message
>newsrFmf.80$b57.2@trndny06...
>>
>>
>> save yourself alot of time and money and stay away from drilling it out.
>you
>> will break the bit and be ****ed off.
>>

If you don't know how to use a drill properly you WILL break the bit.
If you do know how, and do it carefully, it is NOT a given. Yes, I,ve
broken bits - but never that the broken drill was difficult to remove.
So you need 2 bits to do the job - even at $10 per bit you can spend a
lot more time trying other methods, and do more damage very quickly.
Particularly on alloy rims, I'd be carefull of any other method.
Now if you are trying it with cheap drill bits - forget it. I've seen
cheap chinese bits litterally unwind, and others snap like glass.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> "Coasty" > wrote in message
>> news
>> >
>> > "JB" > wrote in message
>> > ...
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> I was changing my wheels from the oversize ones that came with my
>> >> truck (bought it used) to normal size wheels. I've changed 3 tires,
>> >> but 1 I can't get off because one of the 8 "lug nuts" is stuck on the
>> >> lug.
>> >>
>> >> The oversize tire's "lug nuts" use a special adapter that goes inside
>> >> the "lug nut" (American Racing wheels) to turn it off the "lug".
>> >>
>> >> The problem is worse because it is not only stuck, but now the "lug
>> >> nut" has cracked, so the adapter turns freely inside.
>> >>
>> >> What are my options?
>> >>
>> >> Can I drill it out? Anything to watch out for?
>> >>
>> >> Would a tap help also?
>> >>
>> >> Can I drill all the way through the bolt? Then what?
>> >>
>> >> This is on the driver side rear wheel, will I damage the brakes?
>> >>
>> >> Maybe I need an arc welder to just burn the lug and bolt off?
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> Sorry for all the questions, but I going crazy over this.
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> Please post reply.
>> >
>> > 6" pipe wrench with a cheater always works.
>> >
>> > Coasty
>> >
>>
>>
>

Drilling it will take alot of time even if it works because these are
security locks and material is hardened and so are the wheel studs.
I usually take a 1/2" piece of round steel stock and place it against the
lug
at an angle, and use a BFH to smack it back and forth a little until it
snaps
off, wheel studs are easily replaceable. You can hit the stud directly if
you
have room. You might want to protect the wheel by taping cloth to it.--J

.......just like wrench said.

or just pein the damn thing till it is loose.

--
"robs440" > wrote in message
...
> so what's your suggestion for him ?
>
>
> "honk_on_bobo" > wrote in message
> newsrFmf.80$b57.2@trndny06...
>>
>>
>> save yourself alot of time and money and stay away from drilling it out.
> you
>> will break the bit and be ****ed off.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> "Coasty" > wrote in message
>> news
>> >
>> > "JB" > wrote in message
>> > ...
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> I was changing my wheels from the oversize ones that came with my
>> >> truck (bought it used) to normal size wheels. I've changed 3 tires,
>> >> but 1 I can't get off because one of the 8 "lug nuts" is stuck on the
>> >> lug.
>> >>
>> >> The oversize tire's "lug nuts" use a special adapter that goes inside
>> >> the "lug nut" (American Racing wheels) to turn it off the "lug".
>> >>
>> >> The problem is worse because it is not only stuck, but now the "lug
>> >> nut" has cracked, so the adapter turns freely inside.
>> >>
>> >> What are my options?
>> >>
>> >> Can I drill it out? Anything to watch out for?
>> >>
>> >> Would a tap help also?
>> >>
>> >> Can I drill all the way through the bolt? Then what?
>> >>
>> >> This is on the driver side rear wheel, will I damage the brakes?
>> >>
>> >> Maybe I need an arc welder to just burn the lug and bolt off?
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> Sorry for all the questions, but I going crazy over this.
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> Please post reply.
>> >
>> > 6" pipe wrench with a cheater always works.
>> >
>> > Coasty
>> >
>>
>>
>
>

This situation may call for the little-known, not often used, unusual and uncommon practice of "Sacrifice to the Craftsman Socket God." ...

First, spray the socket down with Lock-Ease or nut loosener and let it sit for no less than 10 minutes... spray it again and wait another 10 minutes. Then...

Get yourself a Sears Craftsman socket that is "just a little too small" for the nut and hammer that puppy nice and tight ALL the way down onto the nut you wish to remove. You may or may not crack the socket.

Attach a ratchet or breaker bar to the impaled socket and remove the nut. Return the socket to Sears for another one if you break the socket. I've only broken one Craftsman socket like this because mostly it's the nut that's "gives up" first. Craftsman sockets are tough.

Do NOT use a cheap Taiwanese or Chinese socket - use a Craftsman.

Try different undersize Craftsman sockets if necessary. Trust me... eventually, the nut WILL come off. Sacrifice as many Craftsman sockets in both metric and ASE sizes as required. Return as many sockets to Sears as necessary.

After you've removed the nut (and you WILL remove the nut), put the socket into a vise and drive the nut out with bar steel and a hammer. This has worked for me countless times on jobs that would have been impossible to do otherwise... good luck!