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351 Cleveland Vs Windsor



 
 
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  #1  
Old December 21st 05, 08:49 AM posted to rec.autos.makers.ford.mustang
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Default 351 Cleveland Vs Windsor

Hi there,

I have a 351C from a Fairlane 500 which I am tempted into slotting it into
my 68 Coupe. My concerns are as follows:

1. I noticed that the small heater hose spout on the engine block is broken
due to rust. (It seems like an integral part off the block). To explain, the
hose that mounts to it travels into the car and then into the small water
pump spout (located just above the radiater big inlet spout.

Since I am not going to use the heater can I block this off by forcing a
threaded bolt into this hole?. I do not know how to repair this (Except
taking big block to engineers)

I will then then block off the connecting water pump spout with a rubber
stopper fixed over the spout.

Is this the way to go.

Thanks in advance.

Regards,

Amar (South Africa)
> 68 Coupe
> 68 Convertible (under restoration)
> 76 Fairlane 500 (drivetrain Donor)
> 70 Valiant Charger



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  #2  
Old December 21st 05, 04:13 PM posted to rec.autos.makers.ford.mustang
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Default 351 Cleveland Vs Windsor


Jeffery wrote:
> Hi there,
>
> I have a 351C from a Fairlane 500 which I am tempted into slotting it into
> my 68 Coupe. My concerns are as follows:
>
> 1. I noticed that the small heater hose spout on the engine block is broken
> due to rust. (It seems like an integral part off the block). To explain, the
> hose that mounts to it travels into the car and then into the small water
> pump spout (located just above the radiater big inlet spout.
>
> Since I am not going to use the heater can I block this off by forcing a
> threaded bolt into this hole?. I do not know how to repair this (Except
> taking big block to engineers)
>
> I will then then block off the connecting water pump spout with a rubber
> stopper fixed over the spout.
>
> Is this the way to go.


No.

> Thanks in advance.
>
> Regards,
>
> Amar (South Africa)
> > 68 Coupe
> > 68 Convertible (under restoration)
> > 76 Fairlane 500 (drivetrain Donor)
> > 70 Valiant Charger


I'll bet that last one's gonna stump a few. Got a hemi in that?

180 Out

  #3  
Old December 21st 05, 11:44 PM posted to rec.autos.makers.ford.mustang
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Posts: n/a
Default 351 Cleveland Vs Windsor

wrote in
oups.com:

>
> Jeffery wrote:
>> Hi there,
>>
>> I have a 351C from a Fairlane 500 which I am tempted into slotting
>> it into my 68 Coupe. My concerns are as follows:
>>
>> 1. I noticed that the small heater hose spout on the engine block is
>> broken due to rust. (It seems like an integral part off the block).
>> To explain, the hose that mounts to it travels into the car and then
>> into the small water pump spout (located just above the radiater big
>> inlet spout.
>>
>> Since I am not going to use the heater can I block this off by
>> forcing a threaded bolt into this hole?. I do not know how to repair
>> this (Except taking big block to engineers)
>>
>> I will then then block off the connecting water pump spout with a
>> rubber stopper fixed over the spout.
>>
>> Is this the way to go.

>
> No.
>
>> Thanks in advance.
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> Amar (South Africa)
>> > 68 Coupe
>> > 68 Convertible (under restoration)
>> > 76 Fairlane 500 (drivetrain Donor)
>> > 70 Valiant Charger

>
> I'll bet that last one's gonna stump a few. Got a hemi in that?
>
> 180 Out


Actually, it does. The Aussie Valiant Charger came with a 265 c.i.
hemi six with three double-throat Webers, and did the 1/4 in the mid
14s. In '72 the 265 hemi six was upped to 302 hp and did the 1/4 in
14.4 off the showroom floor.

Joe
Calypso Green '93 5.0 LX AOD hatch with a few goodies
Black '03 Dakota 5.9 R/T CC
  #5  
Old December 22nd 05, 06:01 PM posted to rec.autos.makers.ford.mustang
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Posts: n/a
Default 351 Cleveland Vs Windsor

Hey Joe, I detect a fellow subcriber to Hemmings Muscle Machines.

Anyway, regarding Jeffery/Amar's question, if you want to take the
heater core out of the system, the easy way is just to loop a hose
from one outlet to the other.

If you don't want to do that -- it would look cobby -- that
block-mounted heater hose connection is a screw in. Take some vice
grips to it, maybe soak it first in some PB Blaster or WD-40 or
whatever penetrating oil you can find, maybe apply a propane torch to
the block, and twist it off. Careful, though, not to break it off, or
you'll need a giant easy-out to remove it at that point.

Whenever you're plugging a hole and fluids are involved, you've got to
use an NPT plug, aka pipe threads. These fittings a slightly conical,
so the male gets stuck in the female the farther you screw it in. (I
hate it when that happens.) I''ve not done this, but I'd guess there's
some kind of NPT reamer to make the hole the right shape, then you'd
need an NPT tap to make the threads.

A rubber plug is not going to work on the water pump, either. What
I've done with vacuum lines is cut a little bit of hose and thread a
bolt into the end and use this for a plug. I think if you did this with
hose clamps on both the fitting end and the bolt end, it would not
leak. You could use this method on the block fitting too, but it
might look a little cobby too.

By the way, even if it's not cold in South Africa, a heated defroster
can be useful in the rain.

By the way part two, what's the "vs. Windsor" part?

180 Out

  #6  
Old December 23rd 05, 01:46 AM posted to rec.autos.makers.ford.mustang
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default 351 Cleveland Vs Windsor

wrote in news:1135274466.528744.321010
@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com:

> Hey Joe, I detect a fellow subcriber to Hemmings Muscle Machines.


At the moment I don't subscribe to anything except the local newspaper,
but I am a bit familiar with the Valiant Charger. I've got to admit,
HMM is pretty neat.


> Anyway, regarding Jeffery/Amar's question, if you want to take the
> heater core out of the system, the easy way is just to loop a hose
> from one outlet to the other.
>
> If you don't want to do that -- it would look cobby -- that
> block-mounted heater hose connection is a screw in. Take some vice
> grips to it, maybe soak it first in some PB Blaster or WD-40 or
> whatever penetrating oil you can find, maybe apply a propane torch to
> the block, and twist it off. Careful, though, not to break it off,

or
> you'll need a giant easy-out to remove it at that point.
>
> Whenever you're plugging a hole and fluids are involved, you've got

to
> use an NPT plug, aka pipe threads. These fittings a slightly

conical,
> so the male gets stuck in the female the farther you screw it in. (I
> hate it when that happens.) I''ve not done this, but I'd guess

there's
> some kind of NPT reamer to make the hole the right shape, then you'd
> need an NPT tap to make the threads.
>
> A rubber plug is not going to work on the water pump, either. What
> I've done with vacuum lines is cut a little bit of hose and thread a
> bolt into the end and use this for a plug. I think if you did this

with
> hose clamps on both the fitting end and the bolt end, it would not
> leak. You could use this method on the block fitting too, but it
> might look a little cobby too.
>
> By the way, even if it's not cold in South Africa, a heated

defroster
> can be useful in the rain.
>
> By the way part two, what's the "vs. Windsor" part?
>
> 180 Out
>
>


 




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