How tough is the MOMO?

>The feeling is stiffer and the 900 degrees wheel turn is a nice feature as well.

900 degrees!!? or 2.5 revolutions lock to lock? Cool! and remind me
never to go side by side with you into a corner..

I've had 2 Momo force wheels, the first was replaced under warrentee
after 13 months (thanks logitech) when it started to get lose
calibration mid way through a race. Logitech were great about it, that
was almost a year ago.

Dug out my old Thrustmaster FF while waiting for the replacement and I
have to say there's pros and cons to each:

Momo
much nicer software to map buttons (thrustmaster's was virutally
unusable)
A little lighter action
nicer feel in the hands however both wheels wore where my right thumb
is and there's rubber marbles that come off
better attachment to desk
great customer service

TM
More buttons
bigger pedals
great customer service

He's easy to spot. Just look for the guy whacking his elbow's on the roll
cage

-Larry

"mcewena" > wrote in message
oups.com...
> >The feeling is stiffer and the 900 degrees wheel turn is a nice feature
> >as well.
>
> 900 degrees!!? or 2.5 revolutions lock to lock? Cool! and remind me
> never to go side by side with you into a corner..
>

"mcewena" > wrote in message
oups.com...
> >The feeling is stiffer and the 900 degrees wheel turn is a nice feature
> >as well.
>
> 900 degrees!!? or 2.5 revolutions lock to lock? Cool! and remind me
> never to go side by side with you into a corner..

The software allows you to set it from 40 to 900.
--
David G Fisher

"William Bradshaw" > wrote in message
...
>
> 1. The pedals are the weak spot in the package. The pot in my accelerator
> pedal is spiking 3/4 of the way in it's travel. Not good for short
> tracking. I'd recommend buying a real set of pedals for this wheel, though
> the pedals suffice if you're gentle on them.
>

Open up the pedal box. You will see the design is a joke - the pots simply
sit in a flimsy way and as the attachment from them to the pedals gets older
and flexible, the pots can simply turn in their seat throwing calibration
out.

Fix - pull the pot out - there is a nipple beneath it that is "supposed" to
keep it seated "properly". Cut off about 1cm from the end off an ink pen's
plastic tube and squeeze it over that nipple (opening the end of the tube
out a bit with a fork is useful). Slide the pot back in place with the tube
squeazing down into the section below and you now have a rigidly seated pot!

10 min job.

I have done this twice with 2 different units - perfect afterwards.

I thinks the motor in the Racing is a bit more powerful than the motor in
the Force which in turn makes it feel more smooth. Reduce the forces a bit
and you will see the racing get smoother albeit less powerful.

It's a happy medium you should be looking for.

Mitch

"Jone Tytlandsvik" > wrote in message
...
> William Bradshaw wrote:
>
>> I've read that the leather version of the MOMO doesn't have this problem
>> (I think it's belt driven?)
>>
>
> No it's not. Maybe the ballbearing makes it feel smooth?
>
> ------
> Jone
> http://tytlandsvik.no/momo/

William Bradshaw > wrote in news:1132074561.846542
@news001.transaeris.com:

> 2. The wheel has a definite notchiness to it. Personally, I don't like
> it but I put up with it because I can't afford a TSW right now. However,
> I've read that the leather version of the MOMO doesn't have this problem
> (I think it's belt driven?)
>

That is often fixed by choosing a different setting in game. For
instance. Almost every Papyrus track has a different amount of bumps.
(whether you see them or not.) Crank up your FF until you feel the
notchyness begin. Then start reducing the amount of forces with the ingame
ff slider. I find 'most' Papyrus tracks lose the notches at around 50%
For ISI sims like F1c/GTR/rFactor, I use a much higher ingame
percentage. 85 to 95% often gives plenty of FF response without the
notchiness intruding. your mileage and feel may vary...testing and
cataloging your results should benefit your experience.

dave henrie