Oil change myth?

http://autos.yahoo.com/articles/auto...8KTe2ZlX0azJV4

or: http://preview.tinyurl.com/6mou7j

The entire article is worth reading but this is particularly
interesting to me:

"For several years, automakers like General Motors, BMW, and
Mercedes-Benz have installed computerized systems that alert drivers
via an instrument panel light when it’s time to change oil. As an
example, the General Motor Oil Life System (GMOLS) analyzes the engine
temperature, rpms, vehicle speeds, and other driving conditions to
calculate the rate of engine oil degradation.
Then, software calculates when the oil needs to be changed."

I wonder how accurate this could be?


--
XS11E, Killing all posts from Google Groups
The Usenet Improvement Project:
http://improve-usenet.org

Don't know. My wife's Impala has an oil minder built in. I end up changing
oil more frequently than it calls for, based upon several long standing
rules of mine.
1. The Mfr's oil change interval allows the engine to survive the warranty
period. Past that, expect to have engine wear problems that become obvious
around 100,000 miles on most american made engines. Changing the oil at 1/2
the recommended interval or mileage, or when it is obviously dark and full
of stuff may allow the engine to go to 200,000 miles without serious
problems or the need for an immediate overhaul.

2.Use of synthetic oil. I use it because it generally has a higher breakdown
temp rating. Two of our cars are "boosted".

3. Oil is cheaper than an overhaul.

4. Change the filter each time you change the oil.

5. If possible, "prelube" the filter with at least enough oil to saturate
the filter media before you install it.

6. If available, use an oil drain plug with a magnet.

7. When hydraulic lifters stick, there is generally some sort of "varnish"
buildup. A few ounces of automatic tranny (ATF) or power steering fluid
added to the oil will often solve the problem. (conventional oils, may also
work with blended synthetics.)

8. If the dipstick has "varnish" on it, so does the engine innards.

9. Don't trust a car dealer to do the work when free oil changes are
included in the deal. Always "eyeball" check afterwards to make sure that
new oil is in the engine, and a new oil filter was installed. Don't be too
surprised if you find the dealer used conventional or blended oil on an
engine that calls for full synthetic oil.

"XS11E" > wrote in message
. 236...
> http://autos.yahoo.com/articles/auto...8KTe2ZlX0azJV4
>
> or: http://preview.tinyurl.com/6mou7j
>
> The entire article is worth reading but this is particularly
> interesting to me:
>
> "For several years, automakers like General Motors, BMW, and
> Mercedes-Benz have installed computerized systems that alert drivers
> via an instrument panel light when it's time to change oil. As an
> example, the General Motor Oil Life System (GMOLS) analyzes the engine
> temperature, rpms, vehicle speeds, and other driving conditions to
> calculate the rate of engine oil degradation.
> Then, software calculates when the oil needs to be changed."
>
> I wonder how accurate this could be?
>
>
> --
> XS11E, Killing all posts from Google Groups
> The Usenet Improvement Project:
> http://improve-usenet.org

I wonder if their 'oil minder' is as accurate as the lifter noise I get
around 3k miles?
"Chuck" > wrote in message
...
> Don't know. My wife's Impala has an oil minder built in. I end up changing
> oil more frequently than it calls for, based upon several long standing
> rules of mine.
> 1. The Mfr's oil change interval allows the engine to survive the warranty
> period. Past that, expect to have engine wear problems that become obvious
> around 100,000 miles on most american made engines. Changing the oil at
> 1/2 the recommended interval or mileage, or when it is obviously dark and
> full of stuff may allow the engine to go to 200,000 miles without serious
> problems or the need for an immediate overhaul.
>
> 2.Use of synthetic oil. I use it because it generally has a higher
> breakdown temp rating. Two of our cars are "boosted".
>
> 3. Oil is cheaper than an overhaul.
>
> 4. Change the filter each time you change the oil.
>
> 5. If possible, "prelube" the filter with at least enough oil to saturate
> the filter media before you install it.
>
> 6. If available, use an oil drain plug with a magnet.
>
> 7. When hydraulic lifters stick, there is generally some sort of "varnish"
> buildup. A few ounces of automatic tranny (ATF) or power steering fluid
> added to the oil will often solve the problem. (conventional oils, may
> also work with blended synthetics.)
>
> 8. If the dipstick has "varnish" on it, so does the engine innards.
>
> 9. Don't trust a car dealer to do the work when free oil changes are
> included in the deal. Always "eyeball" check afterwards to make sure that
> new oil is in the engine, and a new oil filter was installed. Don't be
> too surprised if you find the dealer used conventional or blended oil on
> an engine that calls for full synthetic oil.
>
> "XS11E" > wrote in message
> . 236...
>> http://autos.yahoo.com/articles/auto...8KTe2ZlX0azJV4
>>
>> or: http://preview.tinyurl.com/6mou7j
>>
>> The entire article is worth reading but this is particularly
>> interesting to me:
>>
>> "For several years, automakers like General Motors, BMW, and
>> Mercedes-Benz have installed computerized systems that alert drivers
>> via an instrument panel light when it's time to change oil. As an
>> example, the General Motor Oil Life System (GMOLS) analyzes the engine
>> temperature, rpms, vehicle speeds, and other driving conditions to
>> calculate the rate of engine oil degradation.
>> Then, software calculates when the oil needs to be changed."
>>
>> I wonder how accurate this could be?
>>
>>
>> --
>> XS11E, Killing all posts from Google Groups
>> The Usenet Improvement Project:
>> http://improve-usenet.org
>
>

I really doubt it! <G>
The lifter noise probably means that you waited a bit too long, or you have
a bit of varnish build up that might be removed.
Is it just one lifter, as it was on our old and long gone 89 MPV, or more?
It had itty bitty lifters, much as the NAs have.
The 2.6L 4 in the MPV ran OK at 215,000 when I sold it, just used oil, and
had the "little blue cloud" at startup.
It's demise was a few months after I sold it. First, the auto tranny started
having problems, then it was wrecked.
The MPV's real claim to fame was surviving a rollover on an interstate,
along with everyone in it. I put air in the tires that had deflated, used
some bailing wire on the cracked plastic fan shroud, and drove it from the
wrecking yard about 250 miles home. The frame was OK, and the damage was
mainly sheet metal skins, and a delaminated motor mount. Also, the MPV's
dead animal count was one small deer, three medium dogs, uncounted
squirrels, one bird, one possum, and what looked like a worse for wear
raccoon. The 12 valve OHC engine didn't make much noise, and seemed to
confuse animals.


"I wonder if their 'oil minder' is as accurate as the lifter noise I get
around 3k miles?"




"BK" > wrote in message
...
>I wonder if their 'oil minder' is as accurate as the lifter noise I get
>around 3k miles?
> "Chuck" > wrote in message
> ...
>> Don't know. My wife's Impala has an oil minder built in. I end up
>> changing oil more frequently than it calls for, based upon several long
>> standing rules of mine.
>> 1. The Mfr's oil change interval allows the engine to survive the
>> warranty period. Past that, expect to have engine wear problems that
>> become obvious around 100,000 miles on most american made engines.
>> Changing the oil at 1/2 the recommended interval or mileage, or when it
>> is obviously dark and full of stuff may allow the engine to go to 200,000
>> miles without serious problems or the need for an immediate overhaul.
>>
>> 2.Use of synthetic oil. I use it because it generally has a higher
>> breakdown temp rating. Two of our cars are "boosted".
>>
>> 3. Oil is cheaper than an overhaul.
>>
>> 4. Change the filter each time you change the oil.
>>
>> 5. If possible, "prelube" the filter with at least enough oil to saturate
>> the filter media before you install it.
>>
>> 6. If available, use an oil drain plug with a magnet.
>>
>> 7. When hydraulic lifters stick, there is generally some sort of
>> "varnish" buildup. A few ounces of automatic tranny (ATF) or power
>> steering fluid added to the oil will often solve the problem.
>> (conventional oils, may also work with blended synthetics.)
>>
>> 8. If the dipstick has "varnish" on it, so does the engine innards.
>>
>> 9. Don't trust a car dealer to do the work when free oil changes are
>> included in the deal. Always "eyeball" check afterwards to make sure that
>> new oil is in the engine, and a new oil filter was installed. Don't be
>> too surprised if you find the dealer used conventional or blended oil on
>> an engine that calls for full synthetic oil.
>>
>> "XS11E" > wrote in message
>> . 236...
>>> http://autos.yahoo.com/articles/auto...8KTe2ZlX0azJV4
>>>
>>> or: http://preview.tinyurl.com/6mou7j
>>>
>>> The entire article is worth reading but this is particularly
>>> interesting to me:
>>>
>>> "For several years, automakers like General Motors, BMW, and
>>> Mercedes-Benz have installed computerized systems that alert drivers
>>> via an instrument panel light when it's time to change oil. As an
>>> example, the General Motor Oil Life System (GMOLS) analyzes the engine
>>> temperature, rpms, vehicle speeds, and other driving conditions to
>>> calculate the rate of engine oil degradation.
>>> Then, software calculates when the oil needs to be changed."
>>>
>>> I wonder how accurate this could be?
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> XS11E, Killing all posts from Google Groups
>>> The Usenet Improvement Project:
>>> http://improve-usenet.org
>>
>>
>
>

thanks for the therough explaination.

"Chuck" > wrote in message
...
> Don't know. My wife's Impala has an oil minder built in. I end up changing
> oil more frequently than it calls for, based upon several long standing
> rules of mine.
> 1. The Mfr's oil change interval allows the engine to survive the warranty
> period. Past that, expect to have engine wear problems that become obvious
> around 100,000 miles on most american made engines. Changing the oil at
> 1/2 the recommended interval or mileage, or when it is obviously dark and
> full of stuff may allow the engine to go to 200,000 miles without serious
> problems or the need for an immediate overhaul.
>
> 2.Use of synthetic oil. I use it because it generally has a higher
> breakdown temp rating. Two of our cars are "boosted".
>
> 3. Oil is cheaper than an overhaul.
>
> 4. Change the filter each time you change the oil.
>
> 5. If possible, "prelube" the filter with at least enough oil to saturate
> the filter media before you install it.
>
> 6. If available, use an oil drain plug with a magnet.
>
> 7. When hydraulic lifters stick, there is generally some sort of "varnish"
> buildup. A few ounces of automatic tranny (ATF) or power steering fluid
> added to the oil will often solve the problem. (conventional oils, may
> also work with blended synthetics.)
>
> 8. If the dipstick has "varnish" on it, so does the engine innards.
>
> 9. Don't trust a car dealer to do the work when free oil changes are
> included in the deal. Always "eyeball" check afterwards to make sure that
> new oil is in the engine, and a new oil filter was installed. Don't be
> too surprised if you find the dealer used conventional or blended oil on
> an engine that calls for full synthetic oil.
>
> "XS11E" > wrote in message
> . 236...
>> http://autos.yahoo.com/articles/auto...8KTe2ZlX0azJV4
>>
>> or: http://preview.tinyurl.com/6mou7j
>>
>> The entire article is worth reading but this is particularly
>> interesting to me:
>>
>> "For several years, automakers like General Motors, BMW, and
>> Mercedes-Benz have installed computerized systems that alert drivers
>> via an instrument panel light when it's time to change oil. As an
>> example, the General Motor Oil Life System (GMOLS) analyzes the engine
>> temperature, rpms, vehicle speeds, and other driving conditions to
>> calculate the rate of engine oil degradation.
>> Then, software calculates when the oil needs to be changed."
>>
>> I wonder how accurate this could be?
>>
>>
>> --
>> XS11E, Killing all posts from Google Groups
>> The Usenet Improvement Project:
>> http://improve-usenet.org
>
>

sheesh. instead of a new car, i think your fmaily needs a new driver.

"Chuck" > wrote in message
...
>I really doubt it! <G>
> The lifter noise probably means that you waited a bit too long, or you
> have a bit of varnish build up that might be removed.
> Is it just one lifter, as it was on our old and long gone 89 MPV, or more?
> It had itty bitty lifters, much as the NAs have.
> The 2.6L 4 in the MPV ran OK at 215,000 when I sold it, just used oil, and
> had the "little blue cloud" at startup.
> It's demise was a few months after I sold it. First, the auto tranny
> started having problems, then it was wrecked.
> The MPV's real claim to fame was surviving a rollover on an interstate,
> along with everyone in it. I put air in the tires that had deflated, used
> some bailing wire on the cracked plastic fan shroud, and drove it from the
> wrecking yard about 250 miles home. The frame was OK, and the damage was
> mainly sheet metal skins, and a delaminated motor mount. Also, the MPV's
> dead animal count was one small deer, three medium dogs, uncounted
> squirrels, one bird, one possum, and what looked like a worse for wear
> raccoon. The 12 valve OHC engine didn't make much noise, and seemed to
> confuse animals.
>
>
> "I wonder if their 'oil minder' is as accurate as the lifter noise I get
> around 3k miles?"
>
>
>
>
> "BK" > wrote in message
> ...
>>I wonder if their 'oil minder' is as accurate as the lifter noise I get
>>around 3k miles?
>> "Chuck" > wrote in message
>> ...
>>> Don't know. My wife's Impala has an oil minder built in. I end up
>>> changing oil more frequently than it calls for, based upon several long
>>> standing rules of mine.
>>> 1. The Mfr's oil change interval allows the engine to survive the
>>> warranty period. Past that, expect to have engine wear problems that
>>> become obvious around 100,000 miles on most american made engines.
>>> Changing the oil at 1/2 the recommended interval or mileage, or when it
>>> is obviously dark and full of stuff may allow the engine to go to
>>> 200,000 miles without serious problems or the need for an immediate
>>> overhaul.
>>>
>>> 2.Use of synthetic oil. I use it because it generally has a higher
>>> breakdown temp rating. Two of our cars are "boosted".
>>>
>>> 3. Oil is cheaper than an overhaul.
>>>
>>> 4. Change the filter each time you change the oil.
>>>
>>> 5. If possible, "prelube" the filter with at least enough oil to
>>> saturate the filter media before you install it.
>>>
>>> 6. If available, use an oil drain plug with a magnet.
>>>
>>> 7. When hydraulic lifters stick, there is generally some sort of
>>> "varnish" buildup. A few ounces of automatic tranny (ATF) or power
>>> steering fluid added to the oil will often solve the problem.
>>> (conventional oils, may also work with blended synthetics.)
>>>
>>> 8. If the dipstick has "varnish" on it, so does the engine innards.
>>>
>>> 9. Don't trust a car dealer to do the work when free oil changes are
>>> included in the deal. Always "eyeball" check afterwards to make sure
>>> that new oil is in the engine, and a new oil filter was installed.
>>> Don't be too surprised if you find the dealer used conventional or
>>> blended oil on an engine that calls for full synthetic oil.
>>>
>>> "XS11E" > wrote in message
>>> . 236...
>>>> http://autos.yahoo.com/articles/auto...8KTe2ZlX0azJV4
>>>>
>>>> or: http://preview.tinyurl.com/6mou7j
>>>>
>>>> The entire article is worth reading but this is particularly
>>>> interesting to me:
>>>>
>>>> "For several years, automakers like General Motors, BMW, and
>>>> Mercedes-Benz have installed computerized systems that alert drivers
>>>> via an instrument panel light when it's time to change oil. As an
>>>> example, the General Motor Oil Life System (GMOLS) analyzes the engine
>>>> temperature, rpms, vehicle speeds, and other driving conditions to
>>>> calculate the rate of engine oil degradation.
>>>> Then, software calculates when the oil needs to be changed."
>>>>
>>>> I wonder how accurate this could be?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> XS11E, Killing all posts from Google Groups
>>>> The Usenet Improvement Project:
>>>> http://improve-usenet.org
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>

sheesh. instead of a new car, i think your fmaily needs a new driver.

"Chuck" > wrote in message
...
>I really doubt it! <G>
> The lifter noise probably means that you waited a bit too long, or you
> have a bit of varnish build up that might be removed.
> Is it just one lifter, as it was on our old and long gone 89 MPV, or more?
> It had itty bitty lifters, much as the NAs have.
> The 2.6L 4 in the MPV ran OK at 215,000 when I sold it, just used oil, and
> had the "little blue cloud" at startup.
> It's demise was a few months after I sold it. First, the auto tranny
> started having problems, then it was wrecked.
> The MPV's real claim to fame was surviving a rollover on an interstate,
> along with everyone in it. I put air in the tires that had deflated, used
> some bailing wire on the cracked plastic fan shroud, and drove it from the
> wrecking yard about 250 miles home. The frame was OK, and the damage was
> mainly sheet metal skins, and a delaminated motor mount. Also, the MPV's
> dead animal count was one small deer, three medium dogs, uncounted
> squirrels, one bird, one possum, and what looked like a worse for wear
> raccoon. The 12 valve OHC engine didn't make much noise, and seemed to
> confuse animals.
>
>
> "I wonder if their 'oil minder' is as accurate as the lifter noise I get
> around 3k miles?"
>
>
>
>
> "BK" > wrote in message
> ...
>>I wonder if their 'oil minder' is as accurate as the lifter noise I get
>>around 3k miles?
>> "Chuck" > wrote in message
>> ...
>>> Don't know. My wife's Impala has an oil minder built in. I end up
>>> changing oil more frequently than it calls for, based upon several long
>>> standing rules of mine.
>>> 1. The Mfr's oil change interval allows the engine to survive the
>>> warranty period. Past that, expect to have engine wear problems that
>>> become obvious around 100,000 miles on most american made engines.
>>> Changing the oil at 1/2 the recommended interval or mileage, or when it
>>> is obviously dark and full of stuff may allow the engine to go to
>>> 200,000 miles without serious problems or the need for an immediate
>>> overhaul.
>>>
>>> 2.Use of synthetic oil. I use it because it generally has a higher
>>> breakdown temp rating. Two of our cars are "boosted".
>>>
>>> 3. Oil is cheaper than an overhaul.
>>>
>>> 4. Change the filter each time you change the oil.
>>>
>>> 5. If possible, "prelube" the filter with at least enough oil to
>>> saturate the filter media before you install it.
>>>
>>> 6. If available, use an oil drain plug with a magnet.
>>>
>>> 7. When hydraulic lifters stick, there is generally some sort of
>>> "varnish" buildup. A few ounces of automatic tranny (ATF) or power
>>> steering fluid added to the oil will often solve the problem.
>>> (conventional oils, may also work with blended synthetics.)
>>>
>>> 8. If the dipstick has "varnish" on it, so does the engine innards.
>>>
>>> 9. Don't trust a car dealer to do the work when free oil changes are
>>> included in the deal. Always "eyeball" check afterwards to make sure
>>> that new oil is in the engine, and a new oil filter was installed.
>>> Don't be too surprised if you find the dealer used conventional or
>>> blended oil on an engine that calls for full synthetic oil.
>>>
>>> "XS11E" > wrote in message
>>> . 236...
>>>> http://autos.yahoo.com/articles/auto...8KTe2ZlX0azJV4
>>>>
>>>> or: http://preview.tinyurl.com/6mou7j
>>>>
>>>> The entire article is worth reading but this is particularly
>>>> interesting to me:
>>>>
>>>> "For several years, automakers like General Motors, BMW, and
>>>> Mercedes-Benz have installed computerized systems that alert drivers
>>>> via an instrument panel light when it's time to change oil. As an
>>>> example, the General Motor Oil Life System (GMOLS) analyzes the engine
>>>> temperature, rpms, vehicle speeds, and other driving conditions to
>>>> calculate the rate of engine oil degradation.
>>>> Then, software calculates when the oil needs to be changed."
>>>>
>>>> I wonder how accurate this could be?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> XS11E, Killing all posts from Google Groups
>>>> The Usenet Improvement Project:
>>>> http://improve-usenet.org
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>

The van served well. RIP!
It's demise was a few months AFTER I sold it.
It was not replaced with another van, simply because our kids had grown up,
and we needed a regular car and pickup truck.
With three drivers, I currently have a 98 Cavalier(son's car) 05 Impala
(Wife's & road car) 99 NB(220HP, turbo'd (MINE!)
80 Ford Ranger P/U (long story, involves wife's wanting stuff from parents
house & remodeling our house.)
(Old 78 LUV got too worn out for reliable use, so I sold it for $250)

"Powerless" > wrote in message
...
> sheesh. instead of a new car, i think your fmaily needs a new driver.
>
> "Chuck" > wrote in message
> ...
>>I really doubt it! <G>
>> The lifter noise probably means that you waited a bit too long, or you
>> have a bit of varnish build up that might be removed.
>> Is it just one lifter, as it was on our old and long gone 89 MPV, or
>> more?
>> It had itty bitty lifters, much as the NAs have.
>> The 2.6L 4 in the MPV ran OK at 215,000 when I sold it, just used oil,
>> and
>> had the "little blue cloud" at startup.
>> It's demise was a few months after I sold it. First, the auto tranny
>> started having problems, then it was wrecked.
>> The MPV's real claim to fame was surviving a rollover on an interstate,
>> along with everyone in it. I put air in the tires that had deflated,
>> used
>> some bailing wire on the cracked plastic fan shroud, and drove it from
>> the
>> wrecking yard about 250 miles home. The frame was OK, and the damage was
>> mainly sheet metal skins, and a delaminated motor mount. Also, the MPV's
>> dead animal count was one small deer, three medium dogs, uncounted
>> squirrels, one bird, one possum, and what looked like a worse for wear
>> raccoon. The 12 valve OHC engine didn't make much noise, and seemed to
>> confuse animals.
>>
>>
>> "I wonder if their 'oil minder' is as accurate as the lifter noise I get
>> around 3k miles?"
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> "BK" > wrote in message
>> ...
>>>I wonder if their 'oil minder' is as accurate as the lifter noise I get
>>>around 3k miles?
>>> "Chuck" > wrote in message
>>> ...
>>>> Don't know. My wife's Impala has an oil minder built in. I end up
>>>> changing oil more frequently than it calls for, based upon several long
>>>> standing rules of mine.
>>>> 1. The Mfr's oil change interval allows the engine to survive the
>>>> warranty period. Past that, expect to have engine wear problems that
>>>> become obvious around 100,000 miles on most american made engines.
>>>> Changing the oil at 1/2 the recommended interval or mileage, or when it
>>>> is obviously dark and full of stuff may allow the engine to go to
>>>> 200,000 miles without serious problems or the need for an immediate
>>>> overhaul.
>>>>
>>>> 2.Use of synthetic oil. I use it because it generally has a higher
>>>> breakdown temp rating. Two of our cars are "boosted".
>>>>
>>>> 3. Oil is cheaper than an overhaul.
>>>>
>>>> 4. Change the filter each time you change the oil.
>>>>
>>>> 5. If possible, "prelube" the filter with at least enough oil to
>>>> saturate the filter media before you install it.
>>>>
>>>> 6. If available, use an oil drain plug with a magnet.
>>>>
>>>> 7. When hydraulic lifters stick, there is generally some sort of
>>>> "varnish" buildup. A few ounces of automatic tranny (ATF) or power
>>>> steering fluid added to the oil will often solve the problem.
>>>> (conventional oils, may also work with blended synthetics.)
>>>>
>>>> 8. If the dipstick has "varnish" on it, so does the engine innards.
>>>>
>>>> 9. Don't trust a car dealer to do the work when free oil changes are
>>>> included in the deal. Always "eyeball" check afterwards to make sure
>>>> that new oil is in the engine, and a new oil filter was installed.
>>>> Don't be too surprised if you find the dealer used conventional or
>>>> blended oil on an engine that calls for full synthetic oil.
>>>>
>>>> "XS11E" > wrote in message
>>>> . 236...
>>>>> http://autos.yahoo.com/articles/auto...8KTe2ZlX0azJV4
>>>>>
>>>>> or: http://preview.tinyurl.com/6mou7j
>>>>>
>>>>> The entire article is worth reading but this is particularly
>>>>> interesting to me:
>>>>>
>>>>> "For several years, automakers like General Motors, BMW, and
>>>>> Mercedes-Benz have installed computerized systems that alert drivers
>>>>> via an instrument panel light when it's time to change oil. As an
>>>>> example, the General Motor Oil Life System (GMOLS) analyzes the engine
>>>>> temperature, rpms, vehicle speeds, and other driving conditions to
>>>>> calculate the rate of engine oil degradation.
>>>>> Then, software calculates when the oil needs to be changed."
>>>>>
>>>>> I wonder how accurate this could be?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> --
>>>>> XS11E, Killing all posts from Google Groups
>>>>> The Usenet Improvement Project:
>>>>> http://improve-usenet.org
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>