Searching for project car - but what about rust???

Hello,

I've recently purchased a new house, and now that I have an awesome
garage, I want to get a project car. I've been debating on which car
to get for quite a while, and I think I've settled on a 1957 Chevy
either Bel Air or series 210.

Does anyone have experience with these older Chevy's? I'm now in
search for a car that has a decent body with little rust, but it's not
that easy Most are either rust buckets or WAY too expensive. If I
find a car with some rust, say the floor has some rust spots that go
through or the trunk is rusted, can this be repaired easily? Or if a
car has started rusting, should I leave it and keep looking?

The reason I'm asking is because I found a decent car that looks good
and priced within budget, but it has some rust spots in the floorboard
of front and in the trunk that are rather bad. Several 2-3 inch holes
that go all the way through. The sides, top, hood, ect all look
fine... but these places that collect water are rusted badly. Is it
feasible to patch these, or should I continue looking.

Thanks for any comments or suggestions,

Alex.

Roger Kaputnick > wrote in message >. ..
> On 15 Aug 2003 09:06:11 -0700, (Alex) wrote:
>
> >Hello,
> >
> >I've recently purchased a new house, and now that I have an awesome
> >garage, I want to get a project car. I've been debating on which car
> >to get for quite a while, and I think I've settled on a 1957 Chevy
> >either Bel Air or series 210.
> >
> >Does anyone have experience with these older Chevy's? I'm now in
> >search for a car that has a decent body with little rust, but it's not
> >that easy Most are either rust buckets or WAY too expensive. If I
> >find a car with some rust, say the floor has some rust spots that go
> >through or the trunk is rusted, can this be repaired easily? Or if a
> >car has started rusting, should I leave it and keep looking?
> >
> >The reason I'm asking is because I found a decent car that looks good
> >and priced within budget, but it has some rust spots in the floorboard
> >of front and in the trunk that are rather bad. Several 2-3 inch holes
> >that go all the way through. The sides, top, hood, ect all look
> >fine... but these places that collect water are rusted badly. Is it
> >feasible to patch these, or should I continue looking.
> >
> >Thanks for any comments or suggestions,
> >
> >Alex.
>
> Rust in the floors should be a warning to look closer at the doors,
> fenders and quarter panels. Climb under and look to see if there is
> evidence of welding, or worse, pop rivets Look at the body mounting
> brackets for rust. The reason the nice cars are expensive is because
> either someone knows the value of a clean car, or they have already
> spent the big bucks to have the rust repaired. It is always cheaper
> to spend more on a nice car than to make a nice car from a rust
> bucket.

That's my problem... I don't know where to look. I know what car I
want, but either I'm finding rust buckets for under $2000 or totally
restored cars for $15,000 and up. I want a car that needs work but
with a nice body. Also, I don't want to wait 6 months to a year to
find the perfect car. But on the flip side, I don't want a car
that'll take 6 months to remove the rust.

What a dilemma

Thanks for your feedback -- Alex

Alex > wrote in message
om...
> Roger Kaputnick > wrote in message
>. ..
> > On 15 Aug 2003 09:06:11 -0700, (Alex) wrote:
> >
> > >Hello,
> > >
> > >I've recently purchased a new house, and now that I have an awesome
> > >garage, I want to get a project car. I've been debating on which car
> > >to get for quite a while, and I think I've settled on a 1957 Chevy
> > >either Bel Air or series 210.
> > >
> > >Does anyone have experience with these older Chevy's? I'm now in
> > >search for a car that has a decent body with little rust, but it's not
> > >that easy Most are either rust buckets or WAY too expensive. If I
> > >find a car with some rust, say the floor has some rust spots that go
> > >through or the trunk is rusted, can this be repaired easily? Or if a
> > >car has started rusting, should I leave it and keep looking?
> > >
> > >The reason I'm asking is because I found a decent car that looks good
> > >and priced within budget, but it has some rust spots in the floorboard
> > >of front and in the trunk that are rather bad. Several 2-3 inch holes
> > >that go all the way through. The sides, top, hood, ect all look
> > >fine... but these places that collect water are rusted badly. Is it
> > >feasible to patch these, or should I continue looking.
> > >
> > >Thanks for any comments or suggestions,
> > >
> > >Alex.
> >
> > Rust in the floors should be a warning to look closer at the doors,
> > fenders and quarter panels. Climb under and look to see if there is
> > evidence of welding, or worse, pop rivets Look at the body mounting
> > brackets for rust. The reason the nice cars are expensive is because
> > either someone knows the value of a clean car, or they have already
> > spent the big bucks to have the rust repaired. It is always cheaper
> > to spend more on a nice car than to make a nice car from a rust
> > bucket.
>
> That's my problem... I don't know where to look. I know what car I
> want, but either I'm finding rust buckets for under $2000 or totally
> restored cars for $15,000 and up. I want a car that needs work but
> with a nice body. Also, I don't want to wait 6 months to a year to
> find the perfect car. But on the flip side, I don't want a car
> that'll take 6 months to remove the rust.
>
> What a dilemma
>
> Thanks for your feedback -- Alex

I looked forever for a 62 buick special and the best I found for under 3000
had floor rust in the drivers floor pan.I didn't find any rust any other
place and in a way it's turning out fine. I found an old buick in a junk
yard had them cut out the floor and learned mig welding to solve the
problem. now I'm at the painting stage. Good luck as I'm having fun and
learning tons as long as I don't wig out. Dennis