1999 Caravan Serpentine Belt Issue

IMO the tensioner design is defective (but I suspect this is true of many
similar tensioners). I'm tagging on to this thread to include my own
experience as an owner vice a response to any poster.



My 97 caravan 3.0L, 140K Miles, has had tensioner problems since I bought it
w/ 78k Miles. The tensioner bent outward at about 2-3 degrees from the plane
and the serpentine belts squeak after 15-20k of wear. When I first saw this
problem I purchased a replacement tensioner from Autozone but when I put it
on, the belt cocked it 3 deg under tension. I returned it and made a thin
beveled shim which brought the old tensioner into the correct plane at rest.
This is not perfect but better than the "New" replacement. I still replace
the belt when it gets a glazed look on the back and squeaks. Usually in wet
or damp weather. I can replace it fairly fast as I have the procedure down,
though I'd prefer never to mess with it. BTW I also have a laser belt
alignment tool sold by Gates specifically to align serpentine pulleys
(typically Alternator, Hyd Pumps etc). While helpful, it is not much use
when it comes to the Tensioners. And I don't recommend it. Also a little
testing under tension on the bench demonstrated the tensioner is defiantly
flexing off plane vice the possibility that the mounting bracket on vehicle
was somehow miss-aligned. Aside from that you can see it flex as tension is
applied.



I considered getting a junkyard tensioner and rebuilding/designing it using
bronze bushings or bearings but it is not worth the effort given the bevel
is doing the job. I did inject (small hypodermic) some synthetic oil into
the bearing which sounded/felt a bit dry and this has also worked very well.
I could replace the bearing if needed but that has not been a problem. The
original tensioners use a nylon bushing that appears to flex under tension.
It is in my opinion, a poor design. However it is the same design as the
tensioner used in my 83 olds 4.3L which had all the same problems and more.
I would think that in the absence of a better quality replacement tensioner
that an aftermarket beveled bushing could be sold. OTOH this puts a bit
abnormal twist on the center bolt that holds it in place, though that has
not been a problem for me.

Bob,

Your a breath of fresh air on this thread, thanks. I recently looked
at the Auto-Zone tensioner, and another (Dayton or Dayco?). They appear to
be similar to OEM. I could even flex the pulley and rock it back and forth
as the pressed in bearing wiggled back and forth. To me these appear to be
junk. I then got my hand on a Gates tensioner, p/n 38113 for my 1999 3.3
Caravan. This jewel is much heavier, and uses a different design approach.
The spring is not flat like OEM; it is round and looks as heavy a gage as a
valve spring on my old 340 Duster. There is a pointer that shows the range
of spring loading so you can see if the tensioner is within a safe zone, or
at the edge where the belt goes slack. This tensioner cost me $45.00. I will
be putting it soon, so I will see how that goes, and look for deflection
under load as you saw on yours. It looks like the aftermarket is responding
after all.

I wonder what the parts & labor charge would be for 'ol Max to install a
new OEM tensioner and belt??

Regards,
Jim


"bobQ" > wrote in message
news:gXGud.3662$N%6.2355@trnddc05...
> IMO the tensioner design is defective (but I suspect this is true of many
> similar tensioners). I'm tagging on to this thread to include my own
> experience as an owner vice a response to any poster.
>
>
>
> My 97 caravan 3.0L, 140K Miles, has had tensioner problems since I bought
> it w/ 78k Miles. The tensioner bent outward at about 2-3 degrees from the
> plane and the serpentine belts squeak after 15-20k of wear. When I first
> saw this problem I purchased a replacement tensioner from Autozone but
> when I put it on, the belt cocked it 3 deg under tension. I returned it
> and made a thin beveled shim which brought the old tensioner into the
> correct plane at rest. This is not perfect but better than the "New"
> replacement. I still replace the belt when it gets a glazed look on the
> back and squeaks. Usually in wet or damp weather. I can replace it fairly
> fast as I have the procedure down, though I'd prefer never to mess with
> it. BTW I also have a laser belt alignment tool sold by Gates specifically
> to align serpentine pulleys (typically Alternator, Hyd Pumps etc). While
> helpful, it is not much use when it comes to the Tensioners. And I don't
> recommend it. Also a little testing under tension on the bench
> demonstrated the tensioner is defiantly flexing off plane vice the
> possibility that the mounting bracket on vehicle was somehow miss-aligned.
> Aside from that you can see it flex as tension is applied.
>
>
>
> I considered getting a junkyard tensioner and rebuilding/designing it
> using bronze bushings or bearings but it is not worth the effort given the
> bevel is doing the job. I did inject (small hypodermic) some synthetic
> oil into the bearing which sounded/felt a bit dry and this has also worked
> very well. I could replace the bearing if needed but that has not been a
> problem. The original tensioners use a nylon bushing that appears to flex
> under tension. It is in my opinion, a poor design. However it is the same
> design as the tensioner used in my 83 olds 4.3L which had all the same
> problems and more. I would think that in the absence of a better quality
> replacement tensioner that an aftermarket beveled bushing could be sold.
> OTOH this puts a bit abnormal twist on the center bolt that holds it in
> place, though that has not been a problem for me.
>
>

Bob,

Your a breath of fresh air on this thread, thanks. I recently looked
at the Auto-Zone tensioner, and another (Dayton or Dayco?). They appear to
be similar to OEM. I could even flex the pulley and rock it back and forth
as the pressed in bearing wiggled back and forth. To me these appear to be
junk. I then got my hand on a Gates tensioner, p/n 38113 for my 1999 3.3
Caravan. This jewel is much heavier, and uses a different design approach.
The spring is not flat like OEM; it is round and looks as heavy a gage as a
valve spring on my old 340 Duster. There is a pointer that shows the range
of spring loading so you can see if the tensioner is within a safe zone, or
at the edge where the belt goes slack. This tensioner cost me $45.00. I will
be putting it soon, so I will see how that goes, and look for deflection
under load as you saw on yours. It looks like the aftermarket is responding
after all.

I wonder what the parts & labor charge would be for 'ol Max to install a
new OEM tensioner and belt??

Regards,
Jim


"bobQ" > wrote in message
news:gXGud.3662$N%6.2355@trnddc05...
> IMO the tensioner design is defective (but I suspect this is true of many
> similar tensioners). I'm tagging on to this thread to include my own
> experience as an owner vice a response to any poster.
>
>
>
> My 97 caravan 3.0L, 140K Miles, has had tensioner problems since I bought
> it w/ 78k Miles. The tensioner bent outward at about 2-3 degrees from the
> plane and the serpentine belts squeak after 15-20k of wear. When I first
> saw this problem I purchased a replacement tensioner from Autozone but
> when I put it on, the belt cocked it 3 deg under tension. I returned it
> and made a thin beveled shim which brought the old tensioner into the
> correct plane at rest. This is not perfect but better than the "New"
> replacement. I still replace the belt when it gets a glazed look on the
> back and squeaks. Usually in wet or damp weather. I can replace it fairly
> fast as I have the procedure down, though I'd prefer never to mess with
> it. BTW I also have a laser belt alignment tool sold by Gates specifically
> to align serpentine pulleys (typically Alternator, Hyd Pumps etc). While
> helpful, it is not much use when it comes to the Tensioners. And I don't
> recommend it. Also a little testing under tension on the bench
> demonstrated the tensioner is defiantly flexing off plane vice the
> possibility that the mounting bracket on vehicle was somehow miss-aligned.
> Aside from that you can see it flex as tension is applied.
>
>
>
> I considered getting a junkyard tensioner and rebuilding/designing it
> using bronze bushings or bearings but it is not worth the effort given the
> bevel is doing the job. I did inject (small hypodermic) some synthetic
> oil into the bearing which sounded/felt a bit dry and this has also worked
> very well. I could replace the bearing if needed but that has not been a
> problem. The original tensioners use a nylon bushing that appears to flex
> under tension. It is in my opinion, a poor design. However it is the same
> design as the tensioner used in my 83 olds 4.3L which had all the same
> problems and more. I would think that in the absence of a better quality
> replacement tensioner that an aftermarket beveled bushing could be sold.
> OTOH this puts a bit abnormal twist on the center bolt that holds it in
> place, though that has not been a problem for me.
>
>

Sounds like an exact duplicate of the Chrysler tensioner, the heavy spring,
and even the arrow with the gauge showing wear, Chryslers part is about
$55.00 with a 12 month warranty, what is the warranty on the auto zone?, I
have also had to replace the after market ones just after installed because
the belt rides on the edge of some of them, The dealer here Charges an hr
labor
"Jim Candela" > wrote in message
news
> Bob,
>
> Your a breath of fresh air on this thread, thanks. I recently looked
> at the Auto-Zone tensioner, and another (Dayton or Dayco?). They appear to
> be similar to OEM. I could even flex the pulley and rock it back and forth
> as the pressed in bearing wiggled back and forth. To me these appear to be
> junk. I then got my hand on a Gates tensioner, p/n 38113 for my 1999 3.3
> Caravan. This jewel is much heavier, and uses a different design approach.
> The spring is not flat like OEM; it is round and looks as heavy a gage as
a
> valve spring on my old 340 Duster. There is a pointer that shows the range
> of spring loading so you can see if the tensioner is within a safe zone,
or
> at the edge where the belt goes slack. This tensioner cost me $45.00. I
will
> be putting it soon, so I will see how that goes, and look for deflection
> under load as you saw on yours. It looks like the aftermarket is
responding
> after all.
>
> I wonder what the parts & labor charge would be for 'ol Max to install
a
> new OEM tensioner and belt??
>
> Regards,
> Jim
>
>
> "bobQ" > wrote in message
> news:gXGud.3662$N%6.2355@trnddc05...
> > IMO the tensioner design is defective (but I suspect this is true of
many
> > similar tensioners). I'm tagging on to this thread to include my own
> > experience as an owner vice a response to any poster.
> >
> >
> >
> > My 97 caravan 3.0L, 140K Miles, has had tensioner problems since I
bought
> > it w/ 78k Miles. The tensioner bent outward at about 2-3 degrees from
the
> > plane and the serpentine belts squeak after 15-20k of wear. When I first
> > saw this problem I purchased a replacement tensioner from Autozone but
> > when I put it on, the belt cocked it 3 deg under tension. I returned it
> > and made a thin beveled shim which brought the old tensioner into the
> > correct plane at rest. This is not perfect but better than the "New"
> > replacement. I still replace the belt when it gets a glazed look on the
> > back and squeaks. Usually in wet or damp weather. I can replace it
fairly
> > fast as I have the procedure down, though I'd prefer never to mess with
> > it. BTW I also have a laser belt alignment tool sold by Gates
specifically
> > to align serpentine pulleys (typically Alternator, Hyd Pumps etc). While
> > helpful, it is not much use when it comes to the Tensioners. And I don't
> > recommend it. Also a little testing under tension on the bench
> > demonstrated the tensioner is defiantly flexing off plane vice the
> > possibility that the mounting bracket on vehicle was somehow
miss-aligned.
> > Aside from that you can see it flex as tension is applied.
> >
> >
> >
> > I considered getting a junkyard tensioner and rebuilding/designing it
> > using bronze bushings or bearings but it is not worth the effort given
the
> > bevel is doing the job. I did inject (small hypodermic) some synthetic
> > oil into the bearing which sounded/felt a bit dry and this has also
worked
> > very well. I could replace the bearing if needed but that has not been a
> > problem. The original tensioners use a nylon bushing that appears to
flex
> > under tension. It is in my opinion, a poor design. However it is the
same
> > design as the tensioner used in my 83 olds 4.3L which had all the same
> > problems and more. I would think that in the absence of a better quality
> > replacement tensioner that an aftermarket beveled bushing could be sold.
> > OTOH this puts a bit abnormal twist on the center bolt that holds it in
> > place, though that has not been a problem for me.
> >
> >
>
>

Sounds like an exact duplicate of the Chrysler tensioner, the heavy spring,
and even the arrow with the gauge showing wear, Chryslers part is about
$55.00 with a 12 month warranty, what is the warranty on the auto zone?, I
have also had to replace the after market ones just after installed because
the belt rides on the edge of some of them, The dealer here Charges an hr
labor
"Jim Candela" > wrote in message
news
> Bob,
>
> Your a breath of fresh air on this thread, thanks. I recently looked
> at the Auto-Zone tensioner, and another (Dayton or Dayco?). They appear to
> be similar to OEM. I could even flex the pulley and rock it back and forth
> as the pressed in bearing wiggled back and forth. To me these appear to be
> junk. I then got my hand on a Gates tensioner, p/n 38113 for my 1999 3.3
> Caravan. This jewel is much heavier, and uses a different design approach.
> The spring is not flat like OEM; it is round and looks as heavy a gage as
a
> valve spring on my old 340 Duster. There is a pointer that shows the range
> of spring loading so you can see if the tensioner is within a safe zone,
or
> at the edge where the belt goes slack. This tensioner cost me $45.00. I
will
> be putting it soon, so I will see how that goes, and look for deflection
> under load as you saw on yours. It looks like the aftermarket is
responding
> after all.
>
> I wonder what the parts & labor charge would be for 'ol Max to install
a
> new OEM tensioner and belt??
>
> Regards,
> Jim
>
>
> "bobQ" > wrote in message
> news:gXGud.3662$N%6.2355@trnddc05...
> > IMO the tensioner design is defective (but I suspect this is true of
many
> > similar tensioners). I'm tagging on to this thread to include my own
> > experience as an owner vice a response to any poster.
> >
> >
> >
> > My 97 caravan 3.0L, 140K Miles, has had tensioner problems since I
bought
> > it w/ 78k Miles. The tensioner bent outward at about 2-3 degrees from
the
> > plane and the serpentine belts squeak after 15-20k of wear. When I first
> > saw this problem I purchased a replacement tensioner from Autozone but
> > when I put it on, the belt cocked it 3 deg under tension. I returned it
> > and made a thin beveled shim which brought the old tensioner into the
> > correct plane at rest. This is not perfect but better than the "New"
> > replacement. I still replace the belt when it gets a glazed look on the
> > back and squeaks. Usually in wet or damp weather. I can replace it
fairly
> > fast as I have the procedure down, though I'd prefer never to mess with
> > it. BTW I also have a laser belt alignment tool sold by Gates
specifically
> > to align serpentine pulleys (typically Alternator, Hyd Pumps etc). While
> > helpful, it is not much use when it comes to the Tensioners. And I don't
> > recommend it. Also a little testing under tension on the bench
> > demonstrated the tensioner is defiantly flexing off plane vice the
> > possibility that the mounting bracket on vehicle was somehow
miss-aligned.
> > Aside from that you can see it flex as tension is applied.
> >
> >
> >
> > I considered getting a junkyard tensioner and rebuilding/designing it
> > using bronze bushings or bearings but it is not worth the effort given
the
> > bevel is doing the job. I did inject (small hypodermic) some synthetic
> > oil into the bearing which sounded/felt a bit dry and this has also
worked
> > very well. I could replace the bearing if needed but that has not been a
> > problem. The original tensioners use a nylon bushing that appears to
flex
> > under tension. It is in my opinion, a poor design. However it is the
same
> > design as the tensioner used in my 83 olds 4.3L which had all the same
> > problems and more. I would think that in the absence of a better quality
> > replacement tensioner that an aftermarket beveled bushing could be sold.
> > OTOH this puts a bit abnormal twist on the center bolt that holds it in
> > place, though that has not been a problem for me.
> >
> >
>
>

YOU ( CAN'T ) BEAT A ( CHRYSLER ) NOT EVEN WITH A RICE BURNER ( GM SUCKS
) ( FORDS OK ) ( CHRYSLER ) ( DODGE ) # 1

YOU ( CAN'T ) BEAT A ( CHRYSLER ) NOT EVEN WITH A RICE BURNER ( GM SUCKS
) ( FORDS OK ) ( CHRYSLER ) ( DODGE ) # 1

Now theres a Dodge Boy
"charles irby" > wrote in message
...
> YOU ( CAN'T ) BEAT A ( CHRYSLER ) NOT EVEN WITH A RICE BURNER ( GM SUCKS
> ) ( FORDS OK ) ( CHRYSLER ) ( DODGE ) # 1
>

Now theres a Dodge Boy
"charles irby" > wrote in message
...
> YOU ( CAN'T ) BEAT A ( CHRYSLER ) NOT EVEN WITH A RICE BURNER ( GM SUCKS
> ) ( FORDS OK ) ( CHRYSLER ) ( DODGE ) # 1
>

Hi: from canada:
Just had the tensioner replaced on a 94 3.3 caravan. It was seized . I am
curious as to were they seize up as it appears to be just a spring,but try
as I may couldn,t get it to move even a little, The mechanic that change
mine said it took out the water pump. could htis be true? It was oridginal
equipment at 140,000km. It appears to be seized in a slack position (re
alignment mark). The cost for tensioner at garage was 79.00 Canadian. 49 for
water pump and 29 for the new belt. Labour was 2 hours at $50.00 for grand
total of 300 with tax.

thanks for the input

Gjf
"maxpower" > wrote in message
...
> Now theres a Dodge Boy
> "charles irby" > wrote in message
> ...
> > YOU ( CAN'T ) BEAT A ( CHRYSLER ) NOT EVEN WITH A RICE BURNER ( GM SUCKS
> > ) ( FORDS OK ) ( CHRYSLER ) ( DODGE ) # 1
> >
>
>