Battery or alternator

On Friday, April 29, 2016 at 10:54:34 AM UTC-5, Steve W. wrote:
> Michael wrote:
> > On Thursday, April 28, 2016 at 7:00:30 AM UTC-5, Steve W. wrote:
> >> Michael wrote:
> >>> On Tuesday, April 26, 2016 at 4:41:10 PM UTC-5, Steve W. wrote:
> >>>> Michael wrote:
> >>>>> Or something else?
> >>>>>
> >>>>> 2003 F150 8 cyl. 5.4 L
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Driving home, the red battery ion appeared in the dash. I
> >>>>> didn't really notice any problems with how it drove and I
> >>>>> made it home ok.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Driving back (20 minutes), I really didn't notice anything
> >>>>> but the ABS and red battery icon appeared.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Driving home (20 minutes), the radio was intermittent. The
> >>>>> radio went off altogether. The truck began "missing" or
> >>>>> running poorly. I made it home, parked, turned off the
> >>>>> engine, tried to turn it over, and it made the dreaded
> >>>>> clicking sound.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Any help appreciated!
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Mike
> >>>> Easy to test. Get a cheap voltmeter. (even the free HF units
> >>>> will work for this) Hook the meter up to the battery posts with
> >>>> it set to DC voltage and read the voltage. Jump start or charge
> >>>> the battery till the truck will start.
> >>>>
> >>>> With the engine running you should see a voltage at the battery
> >>>> posts rise to close to 14-15 volts if the alternator is
> >>>> working. If the voltage doesn't rise the alternator MAY be bad.
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> Check fuse number 11 (20 amp) in the junction box under the
> >>>> hood. If it blows or corrodes the alternator will stop working.
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> Also check the battery cables, the connections on the starter
> >>>> relay and the connections on the alternator. Wiggle them around
> >>>> while watching the meter. If the wires corrode internally they
> >>>> could cause this as well.
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> -- Steve W.
> >>> Hi Steve,
> >>>
> >>> Thanks for your help! I jumped the truck and checked the
> >>> voltage. It started out at 14 and then slowly leaked down to
> >>> nothing. I then switched the 11 fuse with another 20 amp fuse and
> >>> tried again, but I got the same result. Wiggled the wires to no
> >>> effect. It sounds like the alternator.
> >>>
> >>> Mike
> >> If you want to be sure, remove the battery that's in it and connect
> >> up one that is charged. (you can do that with jumper cables if
> >> needed) Then start it and check the voltage at the battery. I'm
> >> suspicious of the initial 14 volt reading dropping to zero. That
> >> sounds more like a bad battery. Or it may be that you have both a
> >> bad alternator and as a result a bad battery. (A shorted diode in
> >> the alternator could do that)
> >>
> >> Or just pull the alternator and take it in, many parts stores will
> >> test them free.
> >>
> >> -- Steve W.
> >
> > But if it's a bad battery, wouldn't the car continue to run? While
> > it's running, I watch the voltage meter start at 12 today and slowly
> > leak to nothing.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Mike
>
> Not if the bad battery killed the alternator because it has shorted
> plates inside.
>
> However this new 12 volt starting voltage you posted should rule that out.
>
> --
> Steve W.

I'm taking the alternator out today and taking to the parts store to get it tested, just to be sure. If the alternator is bad, should I buy a new battery too? I'm thinking yes.

Thanks!

Mike

On Friday, April 29, 2016 at 12:47:50 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
> On Friday, April 29, 2016 at 10:54:34 AM UTC-5, Steve W. wrote:
> > Michael wrote:
> > > On Thursday, April 28, 2016 at 7:00:30 AM UTC-5, Steve W. wrote:
> > >> Michael wrote:
> > >>> On Tuesday, April 26, 2016 at 4:41:10 PM UTC-5, Steve W. wrote:
> > >>>> Michael wrote:
> > >>>>> Or something else?
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> 2003 F150 8 cyl. 5.4 L
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> Driving home, the red battery ion appeared in the dash. I
> > >>>>> didn't really notice any problems with how it drove and I
> > >>>>> made it home ok.
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> Driving back (20 minutes), I really didn't notice anything
> > >>>>> but the ABS and red battery icon appeared.
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> Driving home (20 minutes), the radio was intermittent. The
> > >>>>> radio went off altogether. The truck began "missing" or
> > >>>>> running poorly. I made it home, parked, turned off the
> > >>>>> engine, tried to turn it over, and it made the dreaded
> > >>>>> clicking sound.
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> Any help appreciated!
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> Mike
> > >>>> Easy to test. Get a cheap voltmeter. (even the free HF units
> > >>>> will work for this) Hook the meter up to the battery posts with
> > >>>> it set to DC voltage and read the voltage. Jump start or charge
> > >>>> the battery till the truck will start.
> > >>>>
> > >>>> With the engine running you should see a voltage at the battery
> > >>>> posts rise to close to 14-15 volts if the alternator is
> > >>>> working. If the voltage doesn't rise the alternator MAY be bad.
> > >>>>
> > >>>>
> > >>>> Check fuse number 11 (20 amp) in the junction box under the
> > >>>> hood. If it blows or corrodes the alternator will stop working.
> > >>>>
> > >>>>
> > >>>> Also check the battery cables, the connections on the starter
> > >>>> relay and the connections on the alternator. Wiggle them around
> > >>>> while watching the meter. If the wires corrode internally they
> > >>>> could cause this as well.
> > >>>>
> > >>>>
> > >>>> -- Steve W.
> > >>> Hi Steve,
> > >>>
> > >>> Thanks for your help! I jumped the truck and checked the
> > >>> voltage. It started out at 14 and then slowly leaked down to
> > >>> nothing. I then switched the 11 fuse with another 20 amp fuse and
> > >>> tried again, but I got the same result. Wiggled the wires to no
> > >>> effect. It sounds like the alternator.
> > >>>
> > >>> Mike
> > >> If you want to be sure, remove the battery that's in it and connect
> > >> up one that is charged. (you can do that with jumper cables if
> > >> needed) Then start it and check the voltage at the battery. I'm
> > >> suspicious of the initial 14 volt reading dropping to zero. That
> > >> sounds more like a bad battery. Or it may be that you have both a
> > >> bad alternator and as a result a bad battery. (A shorted diode in
> > >> the alternator could do that)
> > >>
> > >> Or just pull the alternator and take it in, many parts stores will
> > >> test them free.
> > >>
> > >> -- Steve W.
> > >
> > > But if it's a bad battery, wouldn't the car continue to run? While
> > > it's running, I watch the voltage meter start at 12 today and slowly
> > > leak to nothing.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Mike
> >
> > Not if the bad battery killed the alternator because it has shorted
> > plates inside.
> >
> > However this new 12 volt starting voltage you posted should rule that out.
> >
> > --
> > Steve W.
>
> I'm taking the alternator out today and taking to the parts store to get it tested, just to be sure. If the alternator is bad, should I buy a new battery too? I'm thinking yes.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Mike

As I was moving the wire harness out of the way to get to the bolts on the alternator, one of the wires to the alternator was so corroded it pulled right out of the clip. I hope that's the problem.

Mike

Michael ) writes:
> On Friday, April 29, 2016 at 12:47:50 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
>> On Friday, April 29, 2016 at 10:54:34 AM UTC-5, Steve W. wrote:
>> > Michael wrote:
>> > > On Thursday, April 28, 2016 at 7:00:30 AM UTC-5, Steve W. wrote:
>> > >> Michael wrote:
>> > >>> On Tuesday, April 26, 2016 at 4:41:10 PM UTC-5, Steve W. wrote:
>> > >>>> Michael wrote:
>> > >>>>> Or something else?
>> > >>>>>
>> > >>>>> 2003 F150 8 cyl. 5.4 L
>> > >>>>>
>> > >>>>> Driving home, the red battery ion appeared in the dash. I
>> > >>>>> didn't really notice any problems with how it drove and I
>> > >>>>> made it home ok.
>> > >>>>>
>> > >>>>> Driving back (20 minutes), I really didn't notice anything
>> > >>>>> but the ABS and red battery icon appeared.
>> > >>>>>
>> > >>>>> Driving home (20 minutes), the radio was intermittent. The
>> > >>>>> radio went off altogether. The truck began "missing" or
>> > >>>>> running poorly. I made it home, parked, turned off the
>> > >>>>> engine, tried to turn it over, and it made the dreaded
>> > >>>>> clicking sound.
>> > >>>>>
>> > >>>>> Any help appreciated!
>> > >>>>>
>> > >>>>> Mike
>> > >>>> Easy to test. Get a cheap voltmeter. (even the free HF units
>> > >>>> will work for this) Hook the meter up to the battery posts with
>> > >>>> it set to DC voltage and read the voltage. Jump start or charge
>> > >>>> the battery till the truck will start.
>> > >>>>
>> > >>>> With the engine running you should see a voltage at the battery
>> > >>>> posts rise to close to 14-15 volts if the alternator is
>> > >>>> working. If the voltage doesn't rise the alternator MAY be bad.
>> > >>>>
>> > >>>>
>> > >>>> Check fuse number 11 (20 amp) in the junction box under the
>> > >>>> hood. If it blows or corrodes the alternator will stop working.
>> > >>>>
>> > >>>>
>> > >>>> Also check the battery cables, the connections on the starter
>> > >>>> relay and the connections on the alternator. Wiggle them around
>> > >>>> while watching the meter. If the wires corrode internally they
>> > >>>> could cause this as well.
>> > >>>>
>> > >>>>
>> > >>>> -- Steve W.
>> > >>> Hi Steve,
>> > >>>
>> > >>> Thanks for your help! I jumped the truck and checked the
>> > >>> voltage. It started out at 14 and then slowly leaked down to
>> > >>> nothing. I then switched the 11 fuse with another 20 amp fuse and
>> > >>> tried again, but I got the same result. Wiggled the wires to no
>> > >>> effect. It sounds like the alternator.
>> > >>>
>> > >>> Mike
>> > >> If you want to be sure, remove the battery that's in it and connect
>> > >> up one that is charged. (you can do that with jumper cables if
>> > >> needed) Then start it and check the voltage at the battery. I'm
>> > >> suspicious of the initial 14 volt reading dropping to zero. That
>> > >> sounds more like a bad battery. Or it may be that you have both a
>> > >> bad alternator and as a result a bad battery. (A shorted diode in
>> > >> the alternator could do that)
>> > >>
>> > >> Or just pull the alternator and take it in, many parts stores will
>> > >> test them free.
>> > >>
>> > >> -- Steve W.
>> > >
>> > > But if it's a bad battery, wouldn't the car continue to run? While
>> > > it's running, I watch the voltage meter start at 12 today and slowly
>> > > leak to nothing.
>> > >
>> > > Thanks,
>> > >
>> > > Mike
>> >
>> > Not if the bad battery killed the alternator because it has shorted
>> > plates inside.
>> >
>> > However this new 12 volt starting voltage you posted should rule that out.
>> >
>> > --
>> > Steve W.
>>
>> I'm taking the alternator out today and taking to the parts store to get it tested, just to be sure. If the alternator is bad, should I buy a new battery too? I'm thinking yes.
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Mike
>
> As I was moving the wire harness out of the way to get to the bolts on the alternator, one of the wires to the alternator was so corroded it pulled right out of the clip. I hope that's the problem.
>
> Mike


Congratulations!! You found yer problem (one of them anyways)!
Repair the wire. Charge yer battery. Start it up and see what
happens! Report back.

M.A. Stewart wrote:
> Michael ) writes:
>> On Friday, April 29, 2016 at 12:47:50 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
>>> On Friday, April 29, 2016 at 10:54:34 AM UTC-5, Steve W. wrote:
>>>> Michael wrote:
>>>>> On Thursday, April 28, 2016 at 7:00:30 AM UTC-5, Steve W.
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>> Michael wrote:
>>>>>>> On Tuesday, April 26, 2016 at 4:41:10 PM UTC-5, Steve W.
>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>> Michael wrote:
>>>>>>>>> Or something else?
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> 2003 F150 8 cyl. 5.4 L
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Driving home, the red battery ion appeared in the
>>>>>>>>> dash. I didn't really notice any problems with how it
>>>>>>>>> drove and I made it home ok.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Driving back (20 minutes), I really didn't notice
>>>>>>>>> anything but the ABS and red battery icon appeared.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Driving home (20 minutes), the radio was
>>>>>>>>> intermittent. The radio went off altogether. The
>>>>>>>>> truck began "missing" or running poorly. I made it
>>>>>>>>> home, parked, turned off the engine, tried to turn it
>>>>>>>>> over, and it made the dreaded clicking sound.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Any help appreciated!
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Mike
>>>>>>>> Easy to test. Get a cheap voltmeter. (even the free HF
>>>>>>>> units will work for this) Hook the meter up to the
>>>>>>>> battery posts with it set to DC voltage and read the
>>>>>>>> voltage. Jump start or charge the battery till the
>>>>>>>> truck will start.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> With the engine running you should see a voltage at the
>>>>>>>> battery posts rise to close to 14-15 volts if the
>>>>>>>> alternator is working. If the voltage doesn't rise the
>>>>>>>> alternator MAY be bad.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Check fuse number 11 (20 amp) in the junction box under
>>>>>>>> the hood. If it blows or corrodes the alternator will
>>>>>>>> stop working.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Also check the battery cables, the connections on the
>>>>>>>> starter relay and the connections on the alternator.
>>>>>>>> Wiggle them around while watching the meter. If the
>>>>>>>> wires corrode internally they could cause this as well.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> -- Steve W.
>>>>>>> Hi Steve,
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Thanks for your help! I jumped the truck and checked the
>>>>>>> voltage. It started out at 14 and then slowly leaked
>>>>>>> down to nothing. I then switched the 11 fuse with another
>>>>>>> 20 amp fuse and tried again, but I got the same result.
>>>>>>> Wiggled the wires to no effect. It sounds like the
>>>>>>> alternator.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Mike
>>>>>> If you want to be sure, remove the battery that's in it and
>>>>>> connect up one that is charged. (you can do that with
>>>>>> jumper cables if needed) Then start it and check the
>>>>>> voltage at the battery. I'm suspicious of the initial 14
>>>>>> volt reading dropping to zero. That sounds more like a bad
>>>>>> battery. Or it may be that you have both a bad alternator
>>>>>> and as a result a bad battery. (A shorted diode in the
>>>>>> alternator could do that)
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Or just pull the alternator and take it in, many parts
>>>>>> stores will test them free.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> -- Steve W.
>>>>> But if it's a bad battery, wouldn't the car continue to run?
>>>>> While it's running, I watch the voltage meter start at 12
>>>>> today and slowly leak to nothing.
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>>
>>>>> Mike
>>>> Not if the bad battery killed the alternator because it has
>>>> shorted plates inside.
>>>>
>>>> However this new 12 volt starting voltage you posted should
>>>> rule that out.
>>>>
>>>> -- Steve W.
>>> I'm taking the alternator out today and taking to the parts store
>>> to get it tested, just to be sure. If the alternator is bad,
>>> should I buy a new battery too? I'm thinking yes.
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>>
>>> Mike
>> As I was moving the wire harness out of the way to get to the bolts
>> on the alternator, one of the wires to the alternator was so
>> corroded it pulled right out of the clip. I hope that's the
>> problem.
>>
>> Mike
>
>
> Congratulations!! You found yer problem (one of them anyways)! Repair
> the wire. Charge yer battery. Start it up and see what happens!
> Report back.
>
>
>

What he said. Especially the report back.


--
Steve W.

On Saturday, April 30, 2016 at 10:34:58 AM UTC-5, Steve W. wrote:
> M.A. Stewart wrote:
> > Michael ) writes:
> >> On Friday, April 29, 2016 at 12:47:50 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
> >>> On Friday, April 29, 2016 at 10:54:34 AM UTC-5, Steve W. wrote:
> >>>> Michael wrote:
> >>>>> On Thursday, April 28, 2016 at 7:00:30 AM UTC-5, Steve W.
> >>>>> wrote:
> >>>>>> Michael wrote:
> >>>>>>> On Tuesday, April 26, 2016 at 4:41:10 PM UTC-5, Steve W.
> >>>>>>> wrote:
> >>>>>>>> Michael wrote:
> >>>>>>>>> Or something else?
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> 2003 F150 8 cyl. 5.4 L
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> Driving home, the red battery ion appeared in the
> >>>>>>>>> dash. I didn't really notice any problems with how it
> >>>>>>>>> drove and I made it home ok.
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> Driving back (20 minutes), I really didn't notice
> >>>>>>>>> anything but the ABS and red battery icon appeared.
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> Driving home (20 minutes), the radio was
> >>>>>>>>> intermittent. The radio went off altogether. The
> >>>>>>>>> truck began "missing" or running poorly. I made it
> >>>>>>>>> home, parked, turned off the engine, tried to turn it
> >>>>>>>>> over, and it made the dreaded clicking sound.
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> Any help appreciated!
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> Mike
> >>>>>>>> Easy to test. Get a cheap voltmeter. (even the free HF
> >>>>>>>> units will work for this) Hook the meter up to the
> >>>>>>>> battery posts with it set to DC voltage and read the
> >>>>>>>> voltage. Jump start or charge the battery till the
> >>>>>>>> truck will start.
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> With the engine running you should see a voltage at the
> >>>>>>>> battery posts rise to close to 14-15 volts if the
> >>>>>>>> alternator is working. If the voltage doesn't rise the
> >>>>>>>> alternator MAY be bad.
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> Check fuse number 11 (20 amp) in the junction box under
> >>>>>>>> the hood. If it blows or corrodes the alternator will
> >>>>>>>> stop working.
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> Also check the battery cables, the connections on the
> >>>>>>>> starter relay and the connections on the alternator.
> >>>>>>>> Wiggle them around while watching the meter. If the
> >>>>>>>> wires corrode internally they could cause this as well.
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> -- Steve W.
> >>>>>>> Hi Steve,
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Thanks for your help! I jumped the truck and checked the
> >>>>>>> voltage. It started out at 14 and then slowly leaked
> >>>>>>> down to nothing. I then switched the 11 fuse with another
> >>>>>>> 20 amp fuse and tried again, but I got the same result.
> >>>>>>> Wiggled the wires to no effect. It sounds like the
> >>>>>>> alternator.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Mike
> >>>>>> If you want to be sure, remove the battery that's in it and
> >>>>>> connect up one that is charged. (you can do that with
> >>>>>> jumper cables if needed) Then start it and check the
> >>>>>> voltage at the battery. I'm suspicious of the initial 14
> >>>>>> volt reading dropping to zero. That sounds more like a bad
> >>>>>> battery. Or it may be that you have both a bad alternator
> >>>>>> and as a result a bad battery. (A shorted diode in the
> >>>>>> alternator could do that)
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Or just pull the alternator and take it in, many parts
> >>>>>> stores will test them free.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> -- Steve W.
> >>>>> But if it's a bad battery, wouldn't the car continue to run?
> >>>>> While it's running, I watch the voltage meter start at 12
> >>>>> today and slowly leak to nothing.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Thanks,
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Mike
> >>>> Not if the bad battery killed the alternator because it has
> >>>> shorted plates inside.
> >>>>
> >>>> However this new 12 volt starting voltage you posted should
> >>>> rule that out.
> >>>>
> >>>> -- Steve W.
> >>> I'm taking the alternator out today and taking to the parts store
> >>> to get it tested, just to be sure. If the alternator is bad,
> >>> should I buy a new battery too? I'm thinking yes.
> >>>
> >>> Thanks!
> >>>
> >>> Mike
> >> As I was moving the wire harness out of the way to get to the bolts
> >> on the alternator, one of the wires to the alternator was so
> >> corroded it pulled right out of the clip. I hope that's the
> >> problem.
> >>
> >> Mike
> >
> >
> > Congratulations!! You found yer problem (one of them anyways)! Repair
> > the wire. Charge yer battery. Start it up and see what happens!
> > Report back.
> >
> >
> >
>
> What he said. Especially the report back.

I took off the alternator and had it bench tested at Autozone. It failed. I bought a new one and installed it and got a nice steady 14.5 reading on my multimeter. Also, the truck seems to have a little more zip.

However, the corroded wire was the Stator plug for the dashboard warning and also (apparently) the radio/mp3 player. The Stator wire and connector are pretty shot. I'll need to find/manufacture some kind of replacement. I taped it off but I can't listen to Brad Paisley for a while.

Michael wrote:
> On Saturday, April 30, 2016 at 10:34:58 AM UTC-5, Steve W. wrote:
>> M.A. Stewart wrote:
>>> Michael ) writes:
>>>> On Friday, April 29, 2016 at 12:47:50 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
>>>>> On Friday, April 29, 2016 at 10:54:34 AM UTC-5, Steve W.
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>> Michael wrote:
>>>>>>> On Thursday, April 28, 2016 at 7:00:30 AM UTC-5, Steve W.
>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>> Michael wrote:
>>>>>>>>> On Tuesday, April 26, 2016 at 4:41:10 PM UTC-5, Steve
>>>>>>>>> W. wrote:
>>>>>>>>>> Michael wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>> Or something else?
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> 2003 F150 8 cyl. 5.4 L
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> Driving home, the red battery ion appeared in the
>>>>>>>>>>> dash. I didn't really notice any problems with
>>>>>>>>>>> how it drove and I made it home ok.
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> Driving back (20 minutes), I really didn't notice
>>>>>>>>>>> anything but the ABS and red battery icon
>>>>>>>>>>> appeared.
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> Driving home (20 minutes), the radio was
>>>>>>>>>>> intermittent. The radio went off altogether. The
>>>>>>>>>>> truck began "missing" or running poorly. I made
>>>>>>>>>>> it home, parked, turned off the engine, tried to
>>>>>>>>>>> turn it over, and it made the dreaded clicking
>>>>>>>>>>> sound.
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> Any help appreciated!
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> Mike
>>>>>>>>>> Easy to test. Get a cheap voltmeter. (even the free
>>>>>>>>>> HF units will work for this) Hook the meter up to
>>>>>>>>>> the battery posts with it set to DC voltage and
>>>>>>>>>> read the voltage. Jump start or charge the battery
>>>>>>>>>> till the truck will start.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> With the engine running you should see a voltage at
>>>>>>>>>> the battery posts rise to close to 14-15 volts if
>>>>>>>>>> the alternator is working. If the voltage doesn't
>>>>>>>>>> rise the alternator MAY be bad.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> Check fuse number 11 (20 amp) in the junction box
>>>>>>>>>> under the hood. If it blows or corrodes the
>>>>>>>>>> alternator will stop working.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> Also check the battery cables, the connections on
>>>>>>>>>> the starter relay and the connections on the
>>>>>>>>>> alternator. Wiggle them around while watching the
>>>>>>>>>> meter. If the wires corrode internally they could
>>>>>>>>>> cause this as well.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> -- Steve W.
>>>>>>>>> Hi Steve,
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Thanks for your help! I jumped the truck and checked
>>>>>>>>> the voltage. It started out at 14 and then slowly
>>>>>>>>> leaked down to nothing. I then switched the 11 fuse
>>>>>>>>> with another 20 amp fuse and tried again, but I got
>>>>>>>>> the same result. Wiggled the wires to no effect. It
>>>>>>>>> sounds like the alternator.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Mike
>>>>>>>> If you want to be sure, remove the battery that's in it
>>>>>>>> and connect up one that is charged. (you can do that
>>>>>>>> with jumper cables if needed) Then start it and check
>>>>>>>> the voltage at the battery. I'm suspicious of the
>>>>>>>> initial 14 volt reading dropping to zero. That sounds
>>>>>>>> more like a bad battery. Or it may be that you have
>>>>>>>> both a bad alternator and as a result a bad battery. (A
>>>>>>>> shorted diode in the alternator could do that)
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Or just pull the alternator and take it in, many parts
>>>>>>>> stores will test them free.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> -- Steve W.
>>>>>>> But if it's a bad battery, wouldn't the car continue to
>>>>>>> run? While it's running, I watch the voltage meter start
>>>>>>> at 12 today and slowly leak to nothing.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Mike
>>>>>> Not if the bad battery killed the alternator because it has
>>>>>> shorted plates inside.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> However this new 12 volt starting voltage you posted should
>>>>>> rule that out.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> -- Steve W.
>>>>> I'm taking the alternator out today and taking to the parts
>>>>> store to get it tested, just to be sure. If the alternator is
>>>>> bad, should I buy a new battery too? I'm thinking yes.
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks!
>>>>>
>>>>> Mike
>>>> As I was moving the wire harness out of the way to get to the
>>>> bolts on the alternator, one of the wires to the alternator was
>>>> so corroded it pulled right out of the clip. I hope that's the
>>>> problem.
>>>>
>>>> Mike
>>>
>>> Congratulations!! You found yer problem (one of them anyways)!
>>> Repair the wire. Charge yer battery. Start it up and see what
>>> happens! Report back.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> What he said. Especially the report back.
>
> I took off the alternator and had it bench tested at Autozone. It
> failed. I bought a new one and installed it and got a nice steady
> 14.5 reading on my multimeter. Also, the truck seems to have a little
> more zip.
>
> However, the corroded wire was the Stator plug for the dashboard
> warning and also (apparently) the radio/mp3 player. The Stator wire
> and connector are pretty shot. I'll need to find/manufacture some
> kind of replacement. I taped it off but I can't listen to Brad
> Paisley for a while.


Fix the connector before you drive it. You can get the repair parts at
most good parts stores. If you don't have power inside the vehicle that
isn't just the idiot light connector. It also is part of the regulation
circuit and tells the alternator that the load that it needs to keep up
with. With it unhooked you could end up with a dead battery and another
failed alternator.

--
Steve W.

On Monday, May 2, 2016 at 8:29:40 AM UTC-5, Steve W. wrote:
> Michael wrote:
> > On Saturday, April 30, 2016 at 10:34:58 AM UTC-5, Steve W. wrote:
> >> M.A. Stewart wrote:
> >>> Michael ) writes:
> >>>> On Friday, April 29, 2016 at 12:47:50 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
> >>>>> On Friday, April 29, 2016 at 10:54:34 AM UTC-5, Steve W.
> >>>>> wrote:
> >>>>>> Michael wrote:
> >>>>>>> On Thursday, April 28, 2016 at 7:00:30 AM UTC-5, Steve W.
> >>>>>>> wrote:
> >>>>>>>> Michael wrote:
> >>>>>>>>> On Tuesday, April 26, 2016 at 4:41:10 PM UTC-5, Steve
> >>>>>>>>> W. wrote:
> >>>>>>>>>> Michael wrote:
> >>>>>>>>>>> Or something else?
> >>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>> 2003 F150 8 cyl. 5.4 L
> >>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>> Driving home, the red battery ion appeared in the
> >>>>>>>>>>> dash. I didn't really notice any problems with
> >>>>>>>>>>> how it drove and I made it home ok.
> >>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>> Driving back (20 minutes), I really didn't notice
> >>>>>>>>>>> anything but the ABS and red battery icon
> >>>>>>>>>>> appeared.
> >>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>> Driving home (20 minutes), the radio was
> >>>>>>>>>>> intermittent. The radio went off altogether. The
> >>>>>>>>>>> truck began "missing" or running poorly. I made
> >>>>>>>>>>> it home, parked, turned off the engine, tried to
> >>>>>>>>>>> turn it over, and it made the dreaded clicking
> >>>>>>>>>>> sound.
> >>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>> Any help appreciated!
> >>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>> Mike
> >>>>>>>>>> Easy to test. Get a cheap voltmeter. (even the free
> >>>>>>>>>> HF units will work for this) Hook the meter up to
> >>>>>>>>>> the battery posts with it set to DC voltage and
> >>>>>>>>>> read the voltage. Jump start or charge the battery
> >>>>>>>>>> till the truck will start.
> >>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>> With the engine running you should see a voltage at
> >>>>>>>>>> the battery posts rise to close to 14-15 volts if
> >>>>>>>>>> the alternator is working. If the voltage doesn't
> >>>>>>>>>> rise the alternator MAY be bad.
> >>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>> Check fuse number 11 (20 amp) in the junction box
> >>>>>>>>>> under the hood. If it blows or corrodes the
> >>>>>>>>>> alternator will stop working.
> >>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>> Also check the battery cables, the connections on
> >>>>>>>>>> the starter relay and the connections on the
> >>>>>>>>>> alternator. Wiggle them around while watching the
> >>>>>>>>>> meter. If the wires corrode internally they could
> >>>>>>>>>> cause this as well.
> >>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>> -- Steve W.
> >>>>>>>>> Hi Steve,
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> Thanks for your help! I jumped the truck and checked
> >>>>>>>>> the voltage. It started out at 14 and then slowly
> >>>>>>>>> leaked down to nothing. I then switched the 11 fuse
> >>>>>>>>> with another 20 amp fuse and tried again, but I got
> >>>>>>>>> the same result. Wiggled the wires to no effect. It
> >>>>>>>>> sounds like the alternator.
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> Mike
> >>>>>>>> If you want to be sure, remove the battery that's in it
> >>>>>>>> and connect up one that is charged. (you can do that
> >>>>>>>> with jumper cables if needed) Then start it and check
> >>>>>>>> the voltage at the battery. I'm suspicious of the
> >>>>>>>> initial 14 volt reading dropping to zero. That sounds
> >>>>>>>> more like a bad battery. Or it may be that you have
> >>>>>>>> both a bad alternator and as a result a bad battery. (A
> >>>>>>>> shorted diode in the alternator could do that)
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> Or just pull the alternator and take it in, many parts
> >>>>>>>> stores will test them free.
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> -- Steve W.
> >>>>>>> But if it's a bad battery, wouldn't the car continue to
> >>>>>>> run? While it's running, I watch the voltage meter start
> >>>>>>> at 12 today and slowly leak to nothing.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Thanks,
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Mike
> >>>>>> Not if the bad battery killed the alternator because it has
> >>>>>> shorted plates inside.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> However this new 12 volt starting voltage you posted should
> >>>>>> rule that out.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> -- Steve W.
> >>>>> I'm taking the alternator out today and taking to the parts
> >>>>> store to get it tested, just to be sure. If the alternator is
> >>>>> bad, should I buy a new battery too? I'm thinking yes.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Thanks!
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Mike
> >>>> As I was moving the wire harness out of the way to get to the
> >>>> bolts on the alternator, one of the wires to the alternator was
> >>>> so corroded it pulled right out of the clip. I hope that's the
> >>>> problem.
> >>>>
> >>>> Mike
> >>>
> >>> Congratulations!! You found yer problem (one of them anyways)!
> >>> Repair the wire. Charge yer battery. Start it up and see what
> >>> happens! Report back.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >> What he said. Especially the report back.
> >
> > I took off the alternator and had it bench tested at Autozone. It
> > failed. I bought a new one and installed it and got a nice steady
> > 14.5 reading on my multimeter. Also, the truck seems to have a little
> > more zip.
> >
> > However, the corroded wire was the Stator plug for the dashboard
> > warning and also (apparently) the radio/mp3 player. The Stator wire
> > and connector are pretty shot. I'll need to find/manufacture some
> > kind of replacement. I taped it off but I can't listen to Brad
> > Paisley for a while.
>
>
> Fix the connector before you drive it. You can get the repair parts at
> most good parts stores. If you don't have power inside the vehicle that
> isn't just the idiot light connector. It also is part of the regulation
> circuit and tells the alternator that the load that it needs to keep up
> with. With it unhooked you could end up with a dead battery and another
> failed alternator.
>
> --
> Steve W.

I'm not having luck with Autozone or O'Reilly's for the stator plug. The closest I can find is this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/1216907...&ul_noapp=true

Michael > wrote:
>
>I'm not having luck with Autozone or O'Reilly's for the stator plug. The closest I can find is this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/1216907...&ul_noapp=true

You don't buy the plug, you buy the replacement contact and keep the existing
body. Be sure to use the correct crimp tool on the contact; a tool for
insulated crimp lugs is not the correct one.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

On Monday, May 2, 2016 at 1:28:10 PM UTC-5, Scott Dorsey wrote:
> Michael > wrote:
> >
> >I'm not having luck with Autozone or O'Reilly's for the stator plug. The closest I can find is this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/1216907...&ul_noapp=true
>
> You don't buy the plug, you buy the replacement contact and keep the existing
> body. Be sure to use the correct crimp tool on the contact; a tool for
> insulated crimp lugs is not the correct one.
> --scott
> --
> "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

I pulled out the contact and tried to re-work it with no luck. Wouldn't the contact be even more difficult to find?

Merci,

Mike

Michael > wrote:
>On Monday, May 2, 2016 at 1:28:10 PM UTC-5, Scott Dorsey wrote:
>> Michael > wrote:
>> >
>> >I'm not having luck with Autozone or O'Reilly's for the stator plug. The closest I can find is this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/1216907...&ul_noapp=true
>>
>> You don't buy the plug, you buy the replacement contact and keep the existing
>> body. Be sure to use the correct crimp tool on the contact; a tool for
>> insulated crimp lugs is not the correct one.
>
>I pulled out the contact and tried to re-work it with no luck. Wouldn't the contact be even more difficult to find?

Take the whole thing to an actual locally-owned auto parts store with
clueful people behind the counter. Not a chain, but some place that
deals with local shops. You'll find that manufacturers use the same
contacts for all sorts of different connectors.
--scott

--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."