Sticking valve?

I have a 1972 Ford Mustang, 351 C, 4V. It has the open chambers and
hydraulic lifters. Never had a valve job, so cam and valves are
original. Only has 32,000 miles. When running, there is a "ticking"
noise coming from the number 8 cylinder. Sounds like its valve
related, and my first thought was incorrect lifter lash adjustment.
But, because they are hydraulic lifters, there is nothing to adjust.
Vacuum is at a very steady 16.5 inches at idle, and there is no
flucuation in the vacuum to indicate a sticking valve. Any suggestions
as to what this could be?

Joe wrote:
> I have a 1972 Ford Mustang, 351 C, 4V. It has the open chambers and
> hydraulic lifters. Never had a valve job, so cam and valves are
> original. Only has 32,000 miles. When running, there is a "ticking"
> noise coming from the number 8 cylinder. Sounds like its valve
> related, and my first thought was incorrect lifter lash adjustment.
> But, because they are hydraulic lifters, there is nothing to adjust.
> Vacuum is at a very steady 16.5 inches at idle, and there is no
> flucuation in the vacuum to indicate a sticking valve. Any suggestions
> as to what this could be?

Sounds like a sticky lifter. You could try to flush the engine, but
that has its own set of problems such as potentially turning your seals
into soft goo. If it was my car, I'd do this:

Drain out 1/2 quart of oil.
Warm engine up to operating temp.
Add 1/2 quart of engine flush to oil (or half the amount recommended on
the can).
Let the engine IDLE for 5-10 minutes. (IDLE!!!)
Drain oil and change filter (while it's still hot...be careful).
Refill with good synthetic like Mobil1 5W-40 "Truck & SUV formula" or
whatever your favorite weight of oil is.

Cheers,

Is the exhaust leaking? This is most often a cause for ticking.

--
Mark
--
"I was thinking of the immortal words of Socrates who once said, "I drank
what?". " Val Kilmer in Real Genius.





"Ritz" > wrote in message
...
> Joe wrote:
>> I have a 1972 Ford Mustang, 351 C, 4V. It has the open chambers and
>> hydraulic lifters. Never had a valve job, so cam and valves are
>> original. Only has 32,000 miles. When running, there is a "ticking"
>> noise coming from the number 8 cylinder. Sounds like its valve
>> related, and my first thought was incorrect lifter lash adjustment.
>> But, because they are hydraulic lifters, there is nothing to adjust.
>> Vacuum is at a very steady 16.5 inches at idle, and there is no
>> flucuation in the vacuum to indicate a sticking valve. Any suggestions
>> as to what this could be?
>
> Sounds like a sticky lifter. You could try to flush the engine, but that
> has its own set of problems such as potentially turning your seals into
> soft goo. If it was my car, I'd do this:
>
> Drain out 1/2 quart of oil.
> Warm engine up to operating temp.
> Add 1/2 quart of engine flush to oil (or half the amount recommended on
> the can).
> Let the engine IDLE for 5-10 minutes. (IDLE!!!)
> Drain oil and change filter (while it's still hot...be careful).
> Refill with good synthetic like Mobil1 5W-40 "Truck & SUV formula" or
> whatever your favorite weight of oil is.
>
> Cheers,
>

The exhaust does not appear to be leaking. It's something definitely
under the valve cover.

Ritz wrote:
> Joe wrote:
> > I have a 1972 Ford Mustang, 351 C, 4V. It has the open chambers and
> > hydraulic lifters. Never had a valve job, so cam and valves are
> > original. Only has 32,000 miles. When running, there is a "ticking"
> > noise coming from the number 8 cylinder. Sounds like its valve
> > related, and my first thought was incorrect lifter lash adjustment.
> > But, because they are hydraulic lifters, there is nothing to adjust.
> > Vacuum is at a very steady 16.5 inches at idle, and there is no
> > flucuation in the vacuum to indicate a sticking valve. Any suggestions
> > as to what this could be?
>
> Sounds like a sticky lifter. You could try to flush the engine, but
> that has its own set of problems such as potentially turning your seals
> into soft goo. If it was my car, I'd do this:
>
> Drain out 1/2 quart of oil.
> Warm engine up to operating temp.
> Add 1/2 quart of engine flush to oil (or half the amount recommended on
> the can).
> Let the engine IDLE for 5-10 minutes. (IDLE!!!)
> Drain oil and change filter (while it's still hot...be careful).
> Refill with good synthetic like Mobil1 5W-40 "Truck & SUV formula" or
> whatever your favorite weight of oil is.

Along the same lines, I've had good results with Marvel Mystery Oil.

Also, the Cleveland valvetrain DOES have a lash adjustment. It's
accomplished with rocker pedestal shims (to increase lash) or longer
pushrods (to decrease lash). In the case of a ticking valvetrain, it's
decreased lash -- actually negative lash -- that's needed.

180 Out

"Ritz" > wrote in message
...
> Joe wrote:
> > I have a 1972 Ford Mustang, 351 C, 4V. It has the open chambers and
> > hydraulic lifters. Never had a valve job, so cam and valves are
> > original. Only has 32,000 miles. When running, there is a "ticking"
> > noise coming from the number 8 cylinder. Sounds like its valve
> > related, and my first thought was incorrect lifter lash adjustment.
> > But, because they are hydraulic lifters, there is nothing to adjust.
> > Vacuum is at a very steady 16.5 inches at idle, and there is no
> > flucuation in the vacuum to indicate a sticking valve. Any suggestions
> > as to what this could be?
>
> Sounds like a sticky lifter. You could try to flush the engine, but
> that has its own set of problems such as potentially turning your seals
> into soft goo. If it was my car, I'd do this:
>
> Drain out 1/2 quart of oil.
> Warm engine up to operating temp.
> Add 1/2 quart of engine flush to oil (or half the amount recommended on
> the can).
> Let the engine IDLE for 5-10 minutes. (IDLE!!!)
> Drain oil and change filter (while it's still hot...be careful).
> Refill with good synthetic like Mobil1 5W-40 "Truck & SUV formula" or
> whatever your favorite weight of oil is.
>
> Cheers,
>

I agree, it sounds like a lifter. In the old days, I'd put in a quart of ATF
to take care of that problem. Since that would likely draw flames, let me
suggest a quart of Rislone. It works wonders for dirty lifters and should be
left in from oil change to oil change. It contains no caustic chemicals to
harm seals and will, over time, clean up the engine's innards.

Dave

> wrote in message
oups.com...

> Along the same lines, I've had good results with Marvel Mystery Oil.
>
> Also, the Cleveland valvetrain DOES have a lash adjustment. It's
> accomplished with rocker pedestal shims (to increase lash) or longer
> pushrods (to decrease lash). In the case of a ticking valvetrain, it's
> decreased lash -- actually negative lash -- that's needed.
>
> 180 Out

I agree with you on this.
I have often seen it quieten sticky lifters. Add about a half pint and
drive the car
about 200 miles or so, and see if it removes the varnish. If so, then
change oil.
(I have written some oils of MY approved list, because they seem to make
varnishing
more severe than others)

I have seen lifters that continue to click too. even with flush,
adjustment, etc.
In some cases, the lifter itself has sustained damage or wear, and
replacement solves it.
In other cases, the cam may be damaged.
And finally, if you have too much clearance (usually due to wear) of
crankshaft/bearing surfaces
some lifters just dont get enough hydraulic pressure to function as they
should. At 30,000 miles,
this shouldn't be an issue.

Would this be a bad idea in a vehicle with high (175K) miles? I would
imagine that a high mileage vehicle would have some sludge buildup that may
be sealing something that the Rislone would disrupt. Sort of the same idea
as using synthetic oil in a high mileage motor.


"Hairy" > wrote in message
...
>
> "Ritz" > wrote in message
> ...
>> Joe wrote:
>> > I have a 1972 Ford Mustang, 351 C, 4V. It has the open chambers and
>> > hydraulic lifters. Never had a valve job, so cam and valves are
>> > original. Only has 32,000 miles. When running, there is a "ticking"
>> > noise coming from the number 8 cylinder. Sounds like its valve
>> > related, and my first thought was incorrect lifter lash adjustment.
>> > But, because they are hydraulic lifters, there is nothing to adjust.
>> > Vacuum is at a very steady 16.5 inches at idle, and there is no
>> > flucuation in the vacuum to indicate a sticking valve. Any suggestions
>> > as to what this could be?
>>
>> Sounds like a sticky lifter. You could try to flush the engine, but
>> that has its own set of problems such as potentially turning your seals
>> into soft goo. If it was my car, I'd do this:
>>
>> Drain out 1/2 quart of oil.
>> Warm engine up to operating temp.
>> Add 1/2 quart of engine flush to oil (or half the amount recommended on
>> the can).
>> Let the engine IDLE for 5-10 minutes. (IDLE!!!)
>> Drain oil and change filter (while it's still hot...be careful).
>> Refill with good synthetic like Mobil1 5W-40 "Truck & SUV formula" or
>> whatever your favorite weight of oil is.
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>
> I agree, it sounds like a lifter. In the old days, I'd put in a quart of
> ATF
> to take care of that problem. Since that would likely draw flames, let me
> suggest a quart of Rislone. It works wonders for dirty lifters and should
> be
> left in from oil change to oil change. It contains no caustic chemicals to
> harm seals and will, over time, clean up the engine's innards.
>
> Dave
>
>

AA wrote:
> Would this be a bad idea in a vehicle with high (175K) miles? I would
> imagine that a high mileage vehicle would have some sludge buildup that may
> be sealing something that the Rislone would disrupt. Sort of the same idea
> as using synthetic oil in a high mileage motor.

So you'd rather continue to use oil that causes varnish so you don't
expose a leaky seal? I guess that's one way of looking at it. My way
of looking at it is it is better to know if you've got a dodgy seal
rather than wait for some of that sludge to start breaking off in chunks
and clogging vital oil passages.

Cheers,

"AA" <a> wrote in message ...
> Would this be a bad idea in a vehicle with high (175K) miles? I would
> imagine that a high mileage vehicle would have some sludge buildup that
may
> be sealing something that the Rislone would disrupt. Sort of the same idea
> as using synthetic oil in a high mileage motor.
>

Part of the reason why synthetic's seem to leak where conventional oils
didn't, is because of it's smaller molecules.
Rislone isn't synthetic. It's just a thin, highly refined, high quality
upper cyl. lubricant that, as it happens, also works well for cleaning up
engine internals, OVER TIME. In other words, you don't put it in today and
have a clean engine tomorrow. It will continue to clean as long as you
continue to use it.

Dave