oxygen sensors

Tegger > wrote in
:


> Oh, and you could also have ignition timing that's severely retarded,
> and all your combustion is taking place in your exhaust manifold.


Which is double-plus ungood, by the way.


--
Tegger

On Oct 31, 7:17*pm, Tegger > wrote:
> z > wrote in news:9a6f4c42-dea1-4499-91e5-
> :
>
> > the one for the temp gauge? i can find what i think are temp switches
> > for the ecu, but the manual talks about the temp gauge sender with a
> > yellow/green wire? i don't see it around the thermostat housing or the
> > other radiator hose connection.
>
> The B16 has two sender units, and both of them are on the back of the head
> under the distributor.
>
> The two-wire sender is the one for the ECU. The one-wire unit is for the
> dashboard gauge. Can't comment on wire colors since I have no idea what
> wiring harness(es) you're working with.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > on a related note, why wouldn't my engine heat up? it's never gotten
> > more than a bit off the pijn on the gauge since i swapped it, and *i'm
> > on my third genuine honda thermostat, and with every thermostat i
> > replace, it's even more reluctant to get warm. this time the gauge
> > doesn't ever get off the pin. if i just let it idle it gets warm to
> > the touch, but not hot enough to take your hand off the valve cover.
> > the top radiator hose is mildlly warm but not the bottom. the coolant
> > in the radiator isn't flowing at all. if i rev it a little after it's
> > been idling a long time, i can actually get the fan to go on for a few
> > seconds until it cools down again. on the highway it just doesn't heat
> > up at all now. i'd say it sounds like a thermostat stuck open, but
> > like i said it's the third stat now and every time it gets worse.
> > genuine honda, like i said..the old stat looks OK, i haven't tested it
> > but it looks closed all the way around. i can think of a zillion ways
> > coolant flow can be blocked if the thermostat is open, but i can't
> > think of a way coolant flow can bypass the thermostat when it's closed
> > except the heater, and with the temp down no heat comes out, so no
> > coolant through there; with the temp full on mildly warm air comes
> > out)
>
> An infrared thermometer is a Godsend in cases like this. It tells you
> what's REALLY happening with temps in various locations. And those temps
> will be vastly different from location to location and surface to surface..
>
> If your engine is truly refusing to warm up and the cooling system is in
> proper shape, the only thing I can think of is that you have extremely poor
> combustion. If you have poor combustion you will also have high HC
> emissions *plus lots of other symptoms.
> Oh, and you could also have ignition timing that's severely retarded, and
> all your combustion is taking place in your exhaust manifold.
>
>
>
> > aaagh. winter is coming. plus, i don't think this helps with my
> > emissions.
>
> You never did give me the engine numbers I requested (much) earlier. How
> badly do you really want to find a solution to this problem? You wanna just
> jaw (or type) about your problems but not actually fix them?
>
> --
> Tegger- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

i posted it was B16A on the boss; maybe you missed it, or i absent
mindedly replied to only one newsgroup or something.
but thanks, i found the sensor where you said, correct wire color and
all. the temp gauge doesn't move when i ground the wire, which
according to manual means that end of the setup is malfunctioning
rather than the sensor. the temp gauge did go up when the heater hose
blew, though, so ??? anyway, bad wiring i can deal with no problem.
bad combustion might be a factor; i finally got around to replacing
the plugs today, and the old ones weren't iridium, and were pretty
badly gone. i'm amazed the engine wasn't symptomatic, but maybe it was
as you describe. i haven't had a chance to take it on a serious run
since replacing the plugs, but maybe now it'll heat up some. gotta
find my timing light, too.
it's always been a good running engine, though, healthy power up to
redline; but also one that ran rich and cool. i wish i was rich and
cool....

z > wrote in
:

> On Oct 31, 7:17*pm, Tegger > wrote:


>
> i posted it was B16A on the boss; maybe you missed it, or i absent
> mindedly replied to only one newsgroup or something.



The B16A was a JDM-only engine.



> but thanks, i found the sensor where you said, correct wire color and
> all. the temp gauge doesn't move when i ground the wire, which
> according to manual means that end of the setup is malfunctioning
> rather than the sensor.


Either the gauge is blown or the wire has a break in it. When engines
are swapped, it's common for wires to get accidentally overextended
(stretched) or pinched between parts. It may that be you had partial
connectivity when the hose blew.

You can get a new dash cluster from a wreckers, and test that gauge. If
that one works, swap it into your existing cluster.

***WARNING***
Turn ignition OFF before testing gauge. Ground the gauge wire from the
sender FIRST, THEN turn the ignition on. DO NOT ALLOW the gauge needle
to reach "H" once the ignition is turned on! Doing so will wreck the
gauge! All you need to see is definite needle movement from its home
position. Once you're certain the needle is moving, TURN THE KEY OFF
QUICKLY; it can shoot up fast!



> the temp gauge did go up when the heater hose
> blew, though, so ??? anyway, bad wiring i can deal with no problem.
> bad combustion might be a factor; i finally got around to replacing
> the plugs today, and the old ones weren't iridium, and were pretty
> badly gone.


I hope you put the right plugs in.


> i'm amazed the engine wasn't symptomatic, but maybe it was


Maybe you were so used to crappy running you were used to it.


> as you describe. i haven't had a chance to take it on a serious run
> since replacing the plugs, but maybe now it'll heat up some. gotta
> find my timing light, too.



This engine has _not_ had good care. Lord only knows what else is wrong
with it.

Timing lights with built in tachs are all of $75 or so. A very good
investment. You have a 2-degree + or - tolerance on timing. A timing
light is 100% necessary to achieve that precision. The engine will not
run properly (and may be damaged) with incorrect timing.



> it's always been a good running engine, though, healthy power up to
> redline; but also one that ran rich and cool. i wish i was rich and
> cool....
>


Rich and cool in an engine is very bad. Rich and cool eats up your rings
and bearings so fast it's amazing. Get your ride fixed ASAP, or start
saving for a new engine.


--
Tegger

On Nov 4, 5:58*pm, Tegger > wrote:
> z > wrote :
>
> > On Oct 31, 7:17*pm, Tegger > wrote:
>
> > i posted it was B16A on the boss; maybe you missed it, or i absent
> > mindedly replied to only one newsgroup or something.
>
> The B16A was a JDM-only engine.

yep. this is one of the slow boat from nippon swaps.

>
> > but thanks, i found the sensor where you said, correct wire color and
> > all. the temp gauge doesn't move when i ground the wire, which
> > according to manual means that end of the setup is malfunctioning
> > rather than the sensor.
>
> Either the gauge is blown or the wire has a break in it. When engines
> are swapped, it's common for wires to get accidentally overextended
> (stretched) or pinched between parts. It may that be you had partial
> connectivity when the hose blew.
>
> You can get a new dash cluster from a wreckers, and test that gauge. If
> that one works, swap it into your existing cluster.
>
> ***WARNING***
> Turn ignition OFF before testing gauge. Ground the gauge wire from the
> sender FIRST, THEN turn the ignition on. DO NOT ALLOW the gauge needle
> to reach "H" once the ignition is turned on! Doing so will wreck the
> gauge! All you need to see is definite needle movement from its home
> position. Once you're certain the needle is moving, TURN THE KEY OFF
> QUICKLY; it can shoot up fast!
>
> > the temp gauge did go up when the heater hose
> > blew, though, so ??? anyway, bad wiring i can deal with no problem.
> > bad combustion might be a factor; i finally got around to replacing
> > the plugs today, and the old ones weren't iridium, and were pretty
> > badly gone.
>
> I hope you put the right plugs in.

no, i got onto the ngk site and decoded the code, and those are the
correct indium plugs heat range, etc.


>
> > i'm amazed the engine wasn't symptomatic, but maybe it was
>
> Maybe you were so used to crappy running you were used to it.

maybe... it goes pretty quick except a while ago i got on the onramp
behind a subaru wrx sti who seemed to be in a hurry. that certainly
changes your sense of scale regarding acceleration.

>
> > as you describe. i haven't had a chance to take it on a serious run
> > since replacing the plugs, but maybe now it'll heat up some. gotta
> > find my timing light, too.
>
> This engine has _not_ had good care. Lord only knows what else is wrong
> with it.

oh i could send you a list. when they say those japanese junkyard
engines are only lightly used, don't believe them. this one got a good
going over before installation, and has needed a lot of work since.
just a couple off oddities: no oil pan gasket, just a bead of silicon
goo. stripped engine mount bolt holes in the front of the engine.

but it does run happy.

>
> Timing lights with built in tachs are all of $75 or so. A very good
> investment. You have a 2-degree + or - tolerance on timing. A timing
> light is 100% necessary to achieve that precision. The engine will not
> run properly (and may be damaged) with incorrect timing.
>
> > it's always been a good running engine, though, healthy power up to
> > redline; but also one that ran rich and cool. i wish i was rich and
> > cool....
>
> Rich and cool in an engine is very bad. Rich and cool eats up your rings
> and bearings so fast it's amazing. Get your ride fixed ASAP, or start
> saving for a new engine.

well, lots of frequent oil changes in an attempt to stave off the oil
dilution. i still can't figure out what could keep an engine from
getting at least normally hot after half an hour or more of vigorous
driving on the interstate in the summer. particularly with several
different new thermostats in there.


>
> --
> Tegger

z > wrote in
:

> On Nov 4, 5:58*pm, Tegger > wrote:

>>
>> Rich and cool in an engine is very bad. Rich and cool eats up your
>> rings and bearings so fast it's amazing. Get your ride fixed ASAP, or
>> start saving for a new engine.
>
> well, lots of frequent oil changes in an attempt to stave off the oil
> dilution. i still can't figure out what could keep an engine from
> getting at least normally hot after half an hour or more of vigorous
> driving on the interstate in the summer. particularly with several
> different new thermostats in there.


Find that timing light. You may be dumping all the combustion into the
exhaust manifold.

Also, is the spark bright purply blue at the plugs? Check with a spare plug
(any type will do so long as the gap is correct) in a dark garage or at
night.

(Removed the crosspost to rec.autos.tech, as nobody's replying there
anyway.)


--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/