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Questions about DIY Driveshaft Removal/Installation '91 Civic



 
 
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  #11  
Old September 23rd 04, 06:12 AM
Chopface
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One more follow up tonight. I looked through the engine compartment at
where the current shafts meet the tranny. The way I described how the
uneven surfaces on the largest diameter part of the ends of the shafts
end on one shaft and go to a perfect circle before the tapering
(right-short) and go all the way to the tapering (left-long) seem to
match the replacement shafts. Granted I was peering down at night with a
flashlight (hard to see the left shaft).

Mark
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  #12  
Old September 24th 04, 12:37 AM
Abeness
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Steve Bigelow wrote:
> Hrm. Like mine?
> http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...&threadid=4582


Great link, Steve, thanks for posting.
  #13  
Old September 26th 04, 11:38 PM
jim beam
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Chopface wrote:
> jim beam wrote:
>
>> Chopface wrote:
>>
>>> Hello,
>>>
>>> I am going to replace both the driveshafts in my 1991 Civic Si with
>>> 133k miles. I am getting prepped for the job in terms of tools,
>>> parts, and knowledge and have come across a few things where I could
>>> use some advice and reassurance. I have done some googling of RAMH
>>> and have figured out a lot of basics and I have a Helm manual.
>>>
>>> I can get Cardone shafts for $67.00 a piece at a local shop and am
>>> planning on going with them. They seem like a reputable
>>> remanufacturer. I can also get Wolverine brand shafts ordered for $90
>>> a piece.

>>
>>
>>
>> i think gkn are often sold as honda replacement oem.
>>
>>>
>>> I bought a Craftsmen 5-ton puller, part # 46905 for the ball joints.
>>> I also bought a couple 12mm nuts and some grade 8 flat washers to
>>> protect the studs when I try to use the puller. I am going to put the
>>> washers between the 12mm nut and the stud where the sharp point from
>>> puller will apply pressure. Is that sharp point going to punch into
>>> the washer before the joint gives? I have seen the posts about hammer
>>> whacking and applying heat and will have those tools in my arsenal.

>>
>>
>>
>> all this sounds expensive if it goes wrong - and that puller is going
>> to be a real sob to not keep slipping off. by far the best investment
>> you'll ever make in diy honda maint is the proper tool. get the one
>> identified in the later helm manuals - much superior to the type shown
>> in your edition. it looks like this:
>> http://www.stahlwille.com/automotive_tools.htm
>> fourth down. or get the stahlwille version. it's cheap compared to
>> having a shop do it for you or the frustration of finding you need it
>> later after the first tool doesn't work.
>>
>>>
>>> I noticed a 2nd error in my helm manual. They say to use a 36mm or 1
>>> 7/16 in. socket for the spindle nuts but I figured out that they are
>>> actually 32mm (the other error I've noticed is a spec. for the Ig.
>>> coil).

>>
>>
>>
>> yep, 32.
>>
>>>
>>> I noticed that one of the lower ball joint boots on my car has about
>>> a 1/2 inch tear.

>>
>>
>>
>> why not just replace the boot? $10.

>
>
> Is that a dealer only part? I checked my usual store and they only had
> universal boots without any fasteners.


yes, dealer. universals sometimes work ok, but if oem is only $10, why
mess with anything else? not if you want to keep the car at any rate.

>
>>> My Helm manual has a lower ball joint replacement procedure, but I am
>>> curious as to how hard it would be to put a new boot on. The manual
>>> makes it seem like special tools will come in handy, but may not be
>>> really necessary. I am thinking maybe I should let it slide and stuff
>>> some grease in, with the idea that I could replace the joint in the
>>> future if it goes bad. What kind of grease is suitable for ball joints?

>>
>>
>>
>> moly

>
>
> Where can this be found? Some stores don't have a clue what I'm talking
> about. I do explain to them that its molybdenum disulfide, MoS2
>
>>> Are replacement ball joints expensive?

>>
>>
>>
>> $44
>>
>>> Do boot kits come with new clips?

>>
>>
>>
>> yes
>>
>> > This is where I am really wondering what the best strategy

>>
>>> is. The engine and tranny seem really solid in this car and I'd like
>>> to take it to 200k.

>>
>>
>>
>> keep it running. i have an 89 and a 2000. the 89's much more
>> comfortable and handles much better. bigger windows & better
>> visibility too.
>>
>>>
>>> Much thanks for any help or advice,
>>>
>>> Mark

>
>
> I picked up the Cardone axles today and the splines and boots look
> really good. I guess I'll see how well the joints actually hold up. One
> thing that bothered me about them is that the rubber harmonic balancers
> are absent on the remanufactured axles. Some googling turned up that VW
> used balancers on some of their older cars and if you get VW parts for
> those cars they don't have the balancer anymore. There were also some
> antecdotal experiences of people cutting them off when they got loose
> and not noticeing ill effects.


 




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