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#11
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One more follow up tonight. I looked through the engine compartment at
where the current shafts meet the tranny. The way I described how the uneven surfaces on the largest diameter part of the ends of the shafts end on one shaft and go to a perfect circle before the tapering (right-short) and go all the way to the tapering (left-long) seem to match the replacement shafts. Granted I was peering down at night with a flashlight (hard to see the left shaft). Mark |
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#12
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Steve Bigelow wrote:
> Hrm. Like mine? > http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...&threadid=4582 Great link, Steve, thanks for posting. |
#13
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Chopface wrote:
> jim beam wrote: > >> Chopface wrote: >> >>> Hello, >>> >>> I am going to replace both the driveshafts in my 1991 Civic Si with >>> 133k miles. I am getting prepped for the job in terms of tools, >>> parts, and knowledge and have come across a few things where I could >>> use some advice and reassurance. I have done some googling of RAMH >>> and have figured out a lot of basics and I have a Helm manual. >>> >>> I can get Cardone shafts for $67.00 a piece at a local shop and am >>> planning on going with them. They seem like a reputable >>> remanufacturer. I can also get Wolverine brand shafts ordered for $90 >>> a piece. >> >> >> >> i think gkn are often sold as honda replacement oem. >> >>> >>> I bought a Craftsmen 5-ton puller, part # 46905 for the ball joints. >>> I also bought a couple 12mm nuts and some grade 8 flat washers to >>> protect the studs when I try to use the puller. I am going to put the >>> washers between the 12mm nut and the stud where the sharp point from >>> puller will apply pressure. Is that sharp point going to punch into >>> the washer before the joint gives? I have seen the posts about hammer >>> whacking and applying heat and will have those tools in my arsenal. >> >> >> >> all this sounds expensive if it goes wrong - and that puller is going >> to be a real sob to not keep slipping off. by far the best investment >> you'll ever make in diy honda maint is the proper tool. get the one >> identified in the later helm manuals - much superior to the type shown >> in your edition. it looks like this: >> http://www.stahlwille.com/automotive_tools.htm >> fourth down. or get the stahlwille version. it's cheap compared to >> having a shop do it for you or the frustration of finding you need it >> later after the first tool doesn't work. >> >>> >>> I noticed a 2nd error in my helm manual. They say to use a 36mm or 1 >>> 7/16 in. socket for the spindle nuts but I figured out that they are >>> actually 32mm (the other error I've noticed is a spec. for the Ig. >>> coil). >> >> >> >> yep, 32. >> >>> >>> I noticed that one of the lower ball joint boots on my car has about >>> a 1/2 inch tear. >> >> >> >> why not just replace the boot? $10. > > > Is that a dealer only part? I checked my usual store and they only had > universal boots without any fasteners. yes, dealer. universals sometimes work ok, but if oem is only $10, why mess with anything else? not if you want to keep the car at any rate. > >>> My Helm manual has a lower ball joint replacement procedure, but I am >>> curious as to how hard it would be to put a new boot on. The manual >>> makes it seem like special tools will come in handy, but may not be >>> really necessary. I am thinking maybe I should let it slide and stuff >>> some grease in, with the idea that I could replace the joint in the >>> future if it goes bad. What kind of grease is suitable for ball joints? >> >> >> >> moly > > > Where can this be found? Some stores don't have a clue what I'm talking > about. I do explain to them that its molybdenum disulfide, MoS2 > >>> Are replacement ball joints expensive? >> >> >> >> $44 >> >>> Do boot kits come with new clips? >> >> >> >> yes >> >> > This is where I am really wondering what the best strategy >> >>> is. The engine and tranny seem really solid in this car and I'd like >>> to take it to 200k. >> >> >> >> keep it running. i have an 89 and a 2000. the 89's much more >> comfortable and handles much better. bigger windows & better >> visibility too. >> >>> >>> Much thanks for any help or advice, >>> >>> Mark > > > I picked up the Cardone axles today and the splines and boots look > really good. I guess I'll see how well the joints actually hold up. One > thing that bothered me about them is that the rubber harmonic balancers > are absent on the remanufactured axles. Some googling turned up that VW > used balancers on some of their older cars and if you get VW parts for > those cars they don't have the balancer anymore. There were also some > antecdotal experiences of people cutting them off when they got loose > and not noticeing ill effects. |
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