96 v6 upstream 02 sensor slow response

Forgive me for not having the exact code, I'll get that next time I go
past auto zone. Last time though it was a slow response from the
upstream 02 sensor. I replaced it. Light is still on, code was the
same.

What else can I look at? I typically do my own work.. but I'm not
quite experienced enough for troubleshooting this. And all I've ever
heard about taking emissions troubles to someone are nightmares. My
father spent $700 on crap before his light went off. He fought and got
some of his money back but I don't need the stress.

Car seems to be running fine. I failed emissions though due to this
and the fact that the check engine light was burnt out! (ok, it had
been on for a little while). I can't renew my registration in June
unless I can pass emissions. I'm seriously sick of dropping money on
this fine example of poor egnineering. (transmisson, rear pinions, etc
etc etc)

All that said.. if I am forced to bring this to someone, should I bring
it to a dealer? I've had bad experiences with dealers.. but if they
are best suited to this kind of thing, I'd force myself.

Check/clean MAF sensor and check intake gaskets


> wrote in message
oups.com...
>
> Forgive me for not having the exact code, I'll get that next time I go
> past auto zone. Last time though it was a slow response from the
> upstream 02 sensor. I replaced it. Light is still on, code was the
> same.
>
> What else can I look at? I typically do my own work.. but I'm not
> quite experienced enough for troubleshooting this. And all I've ever
> heard about taking emissions troubles to someone are nightmares. My
> father spent $700 on crap before his light went off. He fought and got
> some of his money back but I don't need the stress.
>
> Car seems to be running fine. I failed emissions though due to this
> and the fact that the check engine light was burnt out! (ok, it had
> been on for a little while). I can't renew my registration in June
> unless I can pass emissions. I'm seriously sick of dropping money on
> this fine example of poor egnineering. (transmisson, rear pinions, etc
> etc etc)
>
> All that said.. if I am forced to bring this to someone, should I bring
> it to a dealer? I've had bad experiences with dealers.. but if they
> are best suited to this kind of thing, I'd force myself.
>

The first thing I would do is check the MAF as the other person said.
I had a problem with emissions and it turned out to be my EGR pressure
sensor and valve. I replaced that and the check engine light went off
and everything was great!! For a further explaination on the EGR
sensor go to this site. http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/egr.htm

The first thing I would do is check the MAF as the other person said.
Make sure when you clean the MAF that you do not touch it!! Clean it
only with Electronic Contact Cleaner only. I used carb cleaner once
and ruined the MAF. I had a problem with emissions and it turned out
to be my EGR pressure sensor and valve. I replaced that for $60 and
the check engine light went off and everything was great!! For a
further explaination on the EGR sensor go to this site.
http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/egr.htm

Great information. I'm starting to suspect this is my problem since
I've had issues with rough idling sometimes. It's sporadic though and
I never really put too much time into it. Look slike I'll spend
tomorrow with my head under the hood. I'll update if it checks out!

Well my MAF looked very clean already but I cleaned it anyway. I then
check voltage to it and that was fine. Checked the voltage to the egr
components as well and they checked out. I reseated all my connections
after cleaning them, and reseated all my vacuum connections as well.
The light is now off. BUT I reseated the connect to the PCM as well.
I was pretty quick about it so I'm not sure if my severing the
connection reset the thing or not. Can anyone tell me if this would
happen if you had it unconnected for all of 2 minutes? I know you can
reset the puter by disconnecting the battery for awhile, but how about
at this connection?

I'm not wanting to bring it in for a check to if scream that it's not
ready yet. I'm not sure the Autozone fellows can tell me if the
readiness bit is set.

bing! the light returned on my trip to Philly. I'm going to look at
the next easiest piece, the EGR valve and sensor. I checked voltage to
these and that seemed fine, is there any other tests I can run? Should
I just replace both pieces? If they are replaced, do I have to clear
the code or will it clear itself right away (or a delay)??