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Alignment Question



 
 
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  #1  
Old February 19th 08, 12:10 AM posted to rec.autos.tech
Tube Audio[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 55
Default Alignment Question

I just replaced the struts and tie rods on my 1984 rabbit.



When I put the struts back in I just put the upper bolt in and tightened it,
did not pay any attention to the position (camber adjustment) as I knew I
would be taking it in for an alignment



I took it to a local shop that charges $50 for an alignment, on the vw
rabbit, only the front end is adjustable, unless you shim the rear.



I timed the guy, from the time the car went on the lift till when it came
down, 22 minutes.



I got a printout of the alignment, here are the details



Before

Camber Left 0.0, Right 0.1; Specified Range -0.2 to 0.8

Caster Left 0.4, Right 1.2; Specified Range 1.3 to 2.3

Toe Left -0.13, Right -0.03; Specified Range -0.25 to -0.04



After

Camber Left 0.0, Right 0.0; Specified Range -0.2 to 0.8

Caster Left 0.5, Right 1.3; Specified Range 1.3 to 2.3

Toe Left -0.09, Right -0.10; Specified Range -0.25 to -0.04



So it looks like all he had to do was adjust the toe on the right side.



How could the camber be in spec when I just slapped it together without
paying attention to the position of the strut?



Is there a way that he might have tricked the alignment rack and only wanted
to make a toe adjustment.



I just can't believe my camber was right on.



Next question is the caster. There is no adjustment, but what would cause
my left side to be out and the right side to be fine? Ball joint?



Thanks


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  #2  
Old February 19th 08, 03:52 AM posted to rec.autos.tech
Refinish King[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 80
Default Alignment Question

Top of the strut can be moved fore and aft a bit on either side.

I think that car has a sway bar, that can be used to compensate also, if not
a strut rod/brake reaction rod, where there may be an adjustment, and shims
if not.

RK
"Tube Audio" > wrote in message
t...
>I just replaced the struts and tie rods on my 1984 rabbit.
>
>
>
> When I put the struts back in I just put the upper bolt in and tightened
> it, did not pay any attention to the position (camber adjustment) as I
> knew I would be taking it in for an alignment
>
>
>
> I took it to a local shop that charges $50 for an alignment, on the vw
> rabbit, only the front end is adjustable, unless you shim the rear.
>
>
>
> I timed the guy, from the time the car went on the lift till when it came
> down, 22 minutes.
>
>
>
> I got a printout of the alignment, here are the details
>
>
>
> Before
>
> Camber Left 0.0, Right 0.1; Specified Range -0.2 to 0.8
>
> Caster Left 0.4, Right 1.2; Specified Range 1.3 to 2.3
>
> Toe Left -0.13, Right -0.03; Specified Range -0.25 to -0.04
>
>
>
> After
>
> Camber Left 0.0, Right 0.0; Specified Range -0.2 to 0.8
>
> Caster Left 0.5, Right 1.3; Specified Range 1.3 to 2.3
>
> Toe Left -0.09, Right -0.10; Specified Range -0.25 to -0.04
>
>
>
> So it looks like all he had to do was adjust the toe on the right side.
>
>
>
> How could the camber be in spec when I just slapped it together without
> paying attention to the position of the strut?
>
>
>
> Is there a way that he might have tricked the alignment rack and only
> wanted to make a toe adjustment.
>
>
>
> I just can't believe my camber was right on.
>
>
>
> Next question is the caster. There is no adjustment, but what would cause
> my left side to be out and the right side to be fine? Ball joint?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>


 




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