Is it straight forward to adjust headlamps?

That's how I did it on my 735 -- there's two -- one right/left and another
up/down For peace of mind, when I was done; I put a drop of loctite on the
screws.

On Sun, 12 Nov 2006 23:35:37 +0000, wrote:

>Ho do I adjust the headlights on a 540? Is it as straight forward as
>turning adjuster screws behind the lamp?
>pete


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It is that straight-forward if the adjusters are not broken. Unfortunately,
they are made out of plastic that completely crumbles after a few years.
Mine did.

My dealer quoted my $1100 to replace the headlamp. Luckily I have the
internet and found multiple sources on how to repair them. $26 in parts
from that same dealer.

If they won't adjust and bounce a bit, the adjusters are broken. Go to
www.bmwtips.com for instructions on replacing them.

Tom
"Josh Assing" > wrote in message
...
> That's how I did it on my 735 -- there's two -- one right/left and another
> up/down For peace of mind, when I was done; I put a drop of loctite on
> the
> screws.
>
> On Sun, 12 Nov 2006 23:35:37 +0000, wrote:
>
>>Ho do I adjust the headlights on a 540? Is it as straight forward as
>>turning adjuster screws behind the lamp?
>>pete
>
>

>My dealer quoted my $1100 to replace the headlamp. Luckily I have the
>internet and found multiple sources on how to repair them. $26 in parts
>from that same dealer.

When I replaced my lenses, I replaced all the plastic bits -- they were, as you
noted, crap. I think, including lenses & all the assorted plastic bits &
screws, I was well under $300 (more if you count the fog lamps)

Surely the $26 wasn't including replacement lamps, was it? just hte plastic
bits.... Replacing the headlamp on a 10-15 year old car (or more) can make a
huge difference in light intensity -- they do get sand pitted and blurry.



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In article >,
> wrote:
> >That's how I did it on my 735 -- there's two -- one right/left and
> >another up/down For peace of mind, when I was done; I put a drop of
> >loctite on the screws.

> I will have to give it a try as I am getting flashed by other
> motorists. Thanks.

You've not got HID lamps, have you? In the UK these are self levelling and
this can fail.

One way to do a quick check is on level ground to drive up close to a wall
etc, square on, and mark on the wall the centre of the *main* beams. Now
back away in a straight line as far as possible. The main beams should be
below that mark.

--
*Life is hard; then you nap

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Josh Assing" > wrote in message
...
> That's how I did it on my 735 -- there's two -- one right/left and another
> up/down For peace of mind, when I was done; I put a drop of loctite on
> the
> screws.

Not necessary and not to be recomended IMO.
The adjusting screws are a friction fit in the plastic adjusters within the
h/light, so are unlikely to move once set, but the main reason they
shouldn't be loctited, is that as others have indicated, the adjusters do
break When they do, the adjusting screw, has to be unscrewed from the broken
part of the plastic adjuster, to allow removal of the broken part, which
isn't easily done if the screw is loctited into it's bush. The screw is
retained in the h/lamp housing, and is not normally replaced when fitting a
new plastic adjuster, which in the UK cost about £8 each.
Mike.

"Josh Assing" > wrote in message
...
> >My dealer quoted my $1100 to replace the headlamp. Luckily I have the
>>internet and found multiple sources on how to repair them. $26 in parts
>>from that same dealer.
>
> When I replaced my lenses, I replaced all the plastic bits -- they were,
> as you
> noted, crap. I think, including lenses & all the assorted plastic bits &
> screws, I was well under $300 (more if you count the fog lamps)
>
> Surely the $26 wasn't including replacement lamps, was it? just hte
> plastic
> bits.... Replacing the headlamp on a 10-15 year old car (or more) can
> make a
> huge difference in light intensity -- they do get sand pitted and blurry.
>
>

No, just the adjusters. They're Xenons and still going strong.