Air compressor.

This morning, I removed the two plastic case halves of my light weight
SpeedAire air compressor, Model 5F239-7 1
3/4 horsepower, 125 psi.
It is a single piston air compressor.I discovered why it doesn't pump
air.The air outlet port looks like a little arched doorway, 5/16'' wide
by 7/16'' it is flat on the bottom.The flat part is part of the top of
the cylinder block.There is an aluminum retangular shaped tube.One end
of the tube is attatched to the air hose, the other end was attatched to
the aluminum air compressor cylinder head and block (arched doorway air
outlet port) with what looks to me like some sort of rubber
material.That end of the aluminum rectangular shaped tube has a factory
made crimp in it very near the end of the aluminum tube.

I am trying to figure out how I can repair my air compressor and get it
working again.I was wonder if I buy some two part self vulcanizing
rubber and put on there, if that will work ok? or perhaps some Permatex,
either self hardening, or Permatex that stays pliable? I have some J-B
Weld, that might work.I was also thinking about doing away with the
piece of rectangular shaped aluminum tubing and use a short (but not too
short) piece of copper tube, or one of those brass tubes which has some
barbs on it.
I appreciate any suggestions of how I can/should repair my air
compressor.
Will I ever get it working again? Does the Lord love a Duck?
cuhulin

> wrote in message
...
> This morning, I removed the two plastic case halves of my light weight
> SpeedAire air compressor, Model 5F239-7 1
> 3/4 horsepower, 125 psi.

Is there a reed valve inside that port somewhere? If so, pay attention to
it.

For something like this, I think I would try blue RTV silicone first. And
let
it cure for several days. If it isnt strong enough to hold, you can go to
JB Weld
later.

Of course there is a gasket between the block and the cylinder head, a
rather thick gasket.Four hex head bolts connect the cylinder head to the
block.The bottom flat part of the arched doorway air outlet port is
actually part of the top of the gasket.I haven't removed the cylinder
head yet.Maybe I can dig out all of the original factory rubber material
with a sharp pointy knife.

When I went to the Lowe's store today, one of the things I bought is a
brass 1/4'' OD x 1/8'' MIP w/isert.It is brass and has a little tube
that that is flared on one end and has a compression nut which screws on
there.I won't need the little flared tube and the compression nut.Maybe
I can use the brass 1/4'' OD piece.I am not in a big hurry to get my air
compressor working.I want to think it through some more before I decide
what to try out first.
Where there is a will, there is a way.
cuhulin

hls wrote:
>
> > wrote in message
> ...
> > This morning, I removed the two plastic case halves of my light weight
> > SpeedAire air compressor, Model 5F239-7 1
> > 3/4 horsepower, 125 psi.
>
> Is there a reed valve inside that port somewhere? If so, pay attention to
> it.
>
> For something like this, I think I would try blue RTV silicone first. And
> let
> it cure for several days. If it isnt strong enough to hold, you can go to
> JB Weld
> later.

Red RTV. I've not used *any* of the lousy blue RTV since I found the
red. Higher temperature tolerance, better flow, adhesion, etc.

"Pete C." > wrote in message
ster.com...
>
> hls wrote:
>>
>> > wrote in message
>> ...
>> > This morning, I removed the two plastic case halves of my light weight
>> > SpeedAire air compressor, Model 5F239-7 1
>> > 3/4 horsepower, 125 psi.
>>
>> Is there a reed valve inside that port somewhere? If so, pay attention
>> to
>> it.
>>
>> For something like this, I think I would try blue RTV silicone first.
>> And
>> let
>> it cure for several days. If it isnt strong enough to hold, you can go
>> to
>> JB Weld
>> later.
>
> Red RTV. I've not used *any* of the lousy blue RTV since I found the
> red. Higher temperature tolerance, better flow, adhesion, etc.

Good tip..Thanks. I worked a lot with blue earlier on, and it is really
good
if you know how to apply it. Will try the red next time...any tips?

hls wrote:
>
> "Pete C." > wrote in message
> ster.com...
> >
> > hls wrote:
> >>
> >> > wrote in message
> >> ...
> >> > This morning, I removed the two plastic case halves of my light weight
> >> > SpeedAire air compressor, Model 5F239-7 1
> >> > 3/4 horsepower, 125 psi.
> >>
> >> Is there a reed valve inside that port somewhere? If so, pay attention
> >> to
> >> it.
> >>
> >> For something like this, I think I would try blue RTV silicone first.
> >> And
> >> let
> >> it cure for several days. If it isnt strong enough to hold, you can go
> >> to
> >> JB Weld
> >> later.
> >
> > Red RTV. I've not used *any* of the lousy blue RTV since I found the
> > red. Higher temperature tolerance, better flow, adhesion, etc.
>
> Good tip..Thanks. I worked a lot with blue earlier on, and it is really
> good
> if you know how to apply it. Will try the red next time...any tips?

No tips, I just find the red to have a better consistency so it flows
smoother and handles better. The higher temp tolerance is nice as well.
Heck they hold half a jet engine together with red RTV, though I expect
a higher grade version than you find in an auto parts store.

Is that Permatex Red RTV? I might try that, I guess the auto parts
stores sell it.The little brass tube piece with threads on both ends
that I bought at the Lowe's store today, it is just a little bit too
large in outside diameter to fit in the air outlet port.I can file the
threads down, that will still offer some ''tooth'' for the RTV, or
whatever I decide to use.
cuhulin

> wrote in message
...
> Is that Permatex Red RTV? I might try that, I guess the auto parts
> stores sell it.The little brass tube piece with threads on both ends
> that I bought at the Lowe's store today, it is just a little bit too
> large in outside diameter to fit in the air outlet port.I can file the
> threads down, that will still offer some ''tooth'' for the RTV, or
> whatever I decide to use.
> cuhulin

RTV is a term for silicone polymers which means "room temperature
vulcanizing".
In other words, it will cure at room temperature....BUT

it will not necessarily cure as quickly as it says on the package.
Sometimes
they recommend letting it "skin over", or they may say it will cure in 1-3
hours.
If you are laying it on thick, or are using it in a cooling system, DONT
COUNT
ON IT.

Ideally they may cure this quickly, but in difficult situations they will
not. Leave
them as long as you can...up to 2-3 days....if you want a tough and very
durable
seal.

So, I am back to working on my light weight SpeedAire air compressor
again.I bought a brass pipe which has threads on both ends of the pipe,
3/8'' outside diameter, 1/4'' inside diameter.The pipe is a little too
large in OD to fit inside of the little arched doorway air outlet port.I
started filing down the threads so I can make it fit.Now I am thinking I
will remove the cylinder head.That way, I can easily remove all of the
rest of the factory rubber gunk which had the rectangular aluminum tube
connected to the air outlet port and also I think I will enlarge the
outlet port with a file.I already have some J-B Weld.When I start
putting it all back together, I will use J-B Weld.If that wont hold the
brass pipe in there, I don't know what will.

On the rear of the motor fan blade, it says, Assembled in Mexico March
25 1993.That date (1993) has to be a mistake.I definetly remember I paid
a guy $20.00 for my SpeedAire air compressor back in the 1970s, nobody
else has owned that air compressor or has had access to it since I
bought it from him but me.He had an ad in the local newspaper about some
tools for sale.I am going to tape a note on one of the plastic case
halves to oil the motor bearings/bushings before I put it all back
together.

When I get it all put back together, I will leave it alone for a week or
two.Then I will put the air hose on the brass pipe and try it out.I
think it will last a long time with that J-B Weld on there.Better than
assembled in Mexico.
cuhulin