2000 Accord -- Clutch play nut; where to tighten

2000 Honda Accord EX, 4 door, 5 speed, 90,000 miles.

Sometimes I am having trouble shifting gears at low speed, especially at traffic lights. I need to let go my foot on the clutch completely before I could step on it and shift into 1st gear.

I do remember in my old Accord 1989, 4dr, 5 speed, there used to be a clutch tightening nut under the hood. The nut tightening of 1/2 to 3/4 by hand used to firm up the clutch.

Can someone tell me where to look for it in 2000 Accord, underneath the hood please. I do have the shop manual. Thanks for any inputs.

Another question: When should I change my timing belt, and all other 3 belts: power steering, water pump belt, alternator belt and also the Water pump itself. Thanks for any suggestions.

"SadaYama" wrote in message
...

2000 Honda Accord EX, 4 door, 5 speed, 90,000 miles.

Sometimes I am having trouble shifting gears at low speed, especially at
traffic lights. I need to let go my foot on the clutch completely before I
could step on it and shift into 1st gear.

I do remember in my old Accord 1989, 4dr, 5 speed, there used to be a clutch
tightening nut under the hood. The nut tightening of 1/2 to 3/4 by hand used
to firm up the clutch.

Can someone tell me where to look for it in 2000 Accord, underneath the hood
please. I do have the shop manual. Thanks for any inputs.

Another question: When should I change my timing belt, and all other 3
belts: power steering, water pump belt, alternator belt and also the Water
pump itself. Thanks for any suggestions.

The clutch is actuated by a hydraulic system -- master and slave. It is
possible that the system is leaking which is easily checked by looking at
the reservoir on the firewall in the engine compartment. Don't think there
is any adjustment, although an early Maxima I had around 1990 had an
adjustment on the slave as I recall. There are others on the newsgroup who
are more expert than I -- perhaps they will give you better advise.

On Saturday, September 1, 2012 8:04:08 AM UTC-4, tww1491 wrote:
> "SadaYama" wrote in message
>
> ...
>
>
>
> 2000 Honda Accord EX, 4 door, 5 speed, 90,000 miles.
>
>
>
> Sometimes I am having trouble shifting gears at low speed, especially at
>
> traffic lights. I need to let go my foot on the clutch completely before I
>
> could step on it and shift into 1st gear.
>
>
>
> I do remember in my old Accord 1989, 4dr, 5 speed, there used to be a clutch
>
> tightening nut under the hood. The nut tightening of 1/2 to 3/4 by hand used
>
> to firm up the clutch.
>
>
>
> Can someone tell me where to look for it in 2000 Accord, underneath the hood
>
> please. I do have the shop manual. Thanks for any inputs.
>
>
>
> Another question: When should I change my timing belt, and all other 3
>
> belts: power steering, water pump belt, alternator belt and also the Water
>
> pump itself. Thanks for any suggestions.
>
>
>
> The clutch is actuated by a hydraulic system -- master and slave. It is
>
> possible that the system is leaking which is easily checked by looking at
>
> the reservoir on the firewall in the engine compartment. Don't think there
>
> is any adjustment, although an early Maxima I had around 1990 had an
>
> adjustment on the slave as I recall. There are others on the newsgroup who
>
> are more expert than I -- perhaps they will give you better advise.

The clutch is actuated by a hydraulic system -- master and slave. It is
possible that the system is leaking which is easily checked by looking at
the reservoir on the firewall in the engine compartment. Don't think there
is any adjustment, although an early Maxima I had around 1990 had an
adjustment on the slave as I recall. There are others on the newsgroup who
are more expert than I -- perhaps they will give you better advise.
Thanks for your reply. You're right there is no adjustment on the slave on this Accord. Yes, the clutch fluid level was low and I topped it up. It seems to be OK now. Thanks again.

..
Well, a new problem developed this PM. I pulled the Accord out of parking and started driving in 1st gear, when I wanted to change into 2nd gear, I pressed the clutch and it got seized to the floor of the car and doesn't let me shift into 2nd gear. The engine chokes and stops. I have to start again and go from 1st gear and again it doesn't let me change into 2nd gear and the clutch seizes and stays at the bottom of the floor. Clutch comes back up once the engine is stopped.

Luckily it happened very near to my mechanic and I drove in 1st gear to his garage. He thinks the slave assembly needs to be changed, which he is going to do tomorrow at 9AM when he gets the part. I said OK.

I want experts opinion on is it just the replacement of slave and bleeding the clutch fluid job OR is it a much bigger problem like CLUTCH itself. I would know this by tomorrow 10AM. Thanks for reading the post. I would appreciate any inputs.
..

"SadaYama" wrote in message
...

..
Well, a new problem developed this PM. I pulled the Accord out of parking
and started driving in 1st gear, when I wanted to change into 2nd gear, I
pressed the clutch and it got seized to the floor of the car and doesn't let
me shift into 2nd gear. The engine chokes and stops. I have to start again
and go from 1st gear and again it doesn't let me change into 2nd gear and
the clutch seizes and stays at the bottom of the floor. Clutch comes back up
once the engine is stopped.

Luckily it happened very near to my mechanic and I drove in 1st gear to his
garage. He thinks the slave assembly needs to be changed, which he is going
to do tomorrow at 9AM when he gets the part. I said OK.

I want experts opinion on is it just the replacement of slave and bleeding
the clutch fluid job OR is it a much bigger problem like CLUTCH itself. I
would know this by tomorrow 10AM. Thanks for reading the post. I would
appreciate any inputs.

If the clutch worked as it should before -- no slipping -- I should imagine
replacing the slave will likely fix the problem. Hope the master cylinder
is OK. Good luck.
..

On 09/04/2012 01:10 PM, SadaYama wrote:
> . Well, a new problem developed this PM. I pulled the Accord out of
> parking and started driving in 1st gear, when I wanted to change into
> 2nd gear, I pressed the clutch and it got seized to the floor of the
> car and doesn't let me shift into 2nd gear. The engine chokes and
> stops. I have to start again and go from 1st gear and again it
> doesn't let me change into 2nd gear and the clutch seizes and stays
> at the bottom of the floor. Clutch comes back up once the engine is
> stopped.
>
> Luckily it happened very near to my mechanic and I drove in 1st gear
> to his garage. He thinks the slave assembly needs to be changed,
> which he is going to do tomorrow at 9AM when he gets the part. I said
> OK.
>
> I want experts opinion on is it just the replacement of slave and
> bleeding the clutch fluid job OR is it a much bigger problem like
> CLUTCH itself. I would know this by tomorrow 10AM. Thanks for reading
> the post. I would appreciate any inputs. .

you can easily see if the slave cylinder is leaking - i'll be wet with
fluid. if that's not it, inspect the master /inside/ the cabin - they
leak inside the car.

either way, just replacing one of them will likely cure without needing
to replace the clutch.


--
fact check required

<<< Tww1491: If the clutch worked *as it should before -- no slipping -- I should imagine replacing the slave will likely fix the problem. *Hope the master cylinder is OK. Good luck. >>>

<<< Jim Beam: you can easily see if the slave cylinder is leaking - It'll be wet with fluid. *if that's not it, inspect the master /inside/ the cabin - they leak inside the car.

either way, just replacing one of them will likely cure without needing
to replace the clutch.
--
fact check required >>>

There was no leakage at the slave cylinder, which they checked by pumping the clutch when engine was idle. They talked about air inside the clutch fluid which could be seizing the clutch pedal?? In any case I would know what the problem was/is once the clutch slave is replaced and tested. I'll update this post after my visit to the mechanic before noon. Thanks for the inputs.

Oh well, I just now got a call from my mechanic. He replaced the clutch slave (cost over $200) and mentioned that it did not fix the problem. He said that there is not enough pressure coming to the clutch pedal, so now he says that master needs to be replaced, which is right behind the pedal. He says once the master is replaced (cost over $500) everything should be OK. He mentioned that clutch is OK. I told him to go ahead and do it. I will update the thread when the car is running OK. Thanks to all.

On 09/05/2012 06:30 AM, SadaYama wrote:
> Oh well, I just now got a call from my mechanic. He replaced the
> clutch slave (cost over $200) and mentioned that it did not fix the
> problem.

dude, stay away from that moron. i don't know what kind of retard would
be so bad at such an easy diagnosis, but either way, don't give them any
more money. take the vehicle to someone that knows what they're doing -
it'll be much cheaper in the long run.


> He said that there is not enough pressure coming to the
> clutch pedal, so now he says that master needs to be replaced, which
> is right behind the pedal. He says once the master is replaced (cost
> over $500) everything should be OK. He mentioned that clutch is OK.

he might be right, but he's just guessing - he can't tell without
driving the vehicle because there's no inspection port.


> I
> told him to go ahead and do it. I will update the thread when the car
> is running OK. Thanks to all.

speaking for myself, i'd rather you didn't. the guy's an idiot, and
you've been told why by multiple people. [adding oil to coolant -
incredible.] if you keep taking the car back to them, you'll get what
you deserve and it's best you keep that to yourself.


--
fact check required

"jim beam" wrote in message ...

On 09/05/2012 06:30 AM, SadaYama wrote:
> Oh well, I just now got a call from my mechanic. He replaced the
> clutch slave (cost over $200) and mentioned that it did not fix the
> problem.

dude, stay away from that moron. i don't know what kind of retard would
be so bad at such an easy diagnosis, but either way, don't give them any
more money. take the vehicle to someone that knows what they're doing -
it'll be much cheaper in the long run.
..
> He said that there is not enough pressure coming to the
> clutch pedal, so now he says that master needs to be replaced, which
> is right behind the pedal. He says once the master is replaced (cost
> over $500) everything should be OK. He mentioned that clutch is OK.

he might be right, but he's just guessing - he can't tell without
driving the vehicle because there's no inspection port.

You used to be able to rebuild the master -- would think there is a kit for
it. But, then I am going back to some of the British sportscars of the 60s
like the Sunbeam Tiger I had. As you say, the hint that you are having a
problem with the master is leaking on the inside. Plus there ought to be
smell of hydraulic fluid.


> I
> told him to go ahead and do it. I will update the thread when the car
> is running OK. Thanks to all.

speaking for myself, i'd rather you didn't. the guy's an idiot, and
you've been told why by multiple people. [adding oil to coolant -
incredible.] if you keep taking the car back to them, you'll get what
you deserve and it's best you keep that to yourself.


--
fact check required