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#1
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How to deal with rust spot?
Peabody > wrote in news:0PGgh.13150
: > I have a 94 Accord with only 54K miles, but have one rust spot near > the passenger side rear wheel well. Actually, it's right above the > seam that runs horizontally back from the wheel well. I don't know > what the names of the panels are, but the lower one has the side > rear relector, and the upper one has the fuel tank door on the > driver side. In fact, if the fuel door was on the passenger side, > the rust would be directly below the middle of it, beginning about > an inch back from the wheel well. There was a parking lot ding > there some years ago. The rusted area is maybe two inches long and > one inch high. It's rusting from the inside. You'll never get rid of it now without spending hundreds of dollars to cut out all the old metal and weld in new. > > The paint appears to be bubbling up like an orange peel, but it's > still firm. Anyway, I would like to understand what I'm up against > to get this fixed. I assume a body shop is gonna want a couple > hundred bucks to fix it, maybe more. Yep. > Is there a chance I could get > in there with my Dremel tool, grind everything away, stuff some > Bondo in there, and hit it with touch-up paint, and at least prevent > the rust from spreading? Or is that a foolish idea? You'd spend an awful lot of time fixing it, only to see it bubble back up again in a year or so. One winter is usually as long as home-type repairs last. > > Advice? > > Live with it. Or sell the car. -- Tegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
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#2
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How to deal with rust spot?
Tegger wrote: > > Peabody > wrote in news:0PGgh.13150 > : > > > I have a 94 Accord with only 54K miles, but have one rust spot near > > the passenger side rear wheel well. Actually, it's right above the > > seam that runs horizontally back from the wheel well. I don't know > > what the names of the panels are, but the lower one has the side > > rear relector, and the upper one has the fuel tank door on the > > driver side. In fact, if the fuel door was on the passenger side, > > the rust would be directly below the middle of it, beginning about > > an inch back from the wheel well. There was a parking lot ding > > there some years ago. The rusted area is maybe two inches long and > > one inch high. > > It's rusting from the inside. You'll never get rid of it now without > spending hundreds of dollars to cut out all the old metal and weld in > new. > > > > > The paint appears to be bubbling up like an orange peel, but it's > > still firm. Anyway, I would like to understand what I'm up against > > to get this fixed. I assume a body shop is gonna want a couple > > hundred bucks to fix it, maybe more. > > Yep. > > > Is there a chance I could get > > in there with my Dremel tool, grind everything away, stuff some > > Bondo in there, and hit it with touch-up paint, and at least prevent > > the rust from spreading? Or is that a foolish idea? > > You'd spend an awful lot of time fixing it, only to see it bubble back > up again in a year or so. One winter is usually as long as home-type > repairs last. > > > > > Advice? > > > > > > Live with it. Or sell the car. > > -- > Tegger > Or.... He could buy a rust free southwest car and swap his good parts into it.. Gawd, I hate(d) those rust belt winters. Never again! JT |
#3
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How to deal with rust spot?
Peabody > wrote in news:cNSgh.54737
: > Tegger says... > > > It's rusting from the inside. You'll never get rid of it > > now without spending hundreds of dollars to cut out all > > the old metal and weld in new. > > Will it continue to spread if I leave it as is? Anything I > can do to keep it from spreading? It will keep spreading. There's nothing you can do at this point short of cutting out *all* the rot, which will mean a large amount of metal and money. > > > You'd spend an awful lot of time fixing it, only to see > > it bubble back up again in a year or so. One winter is > > usually as long as home-type repairs last. > > Do I cost myself any money trying to fix it myself? In the > end, if it doesn't work wouldn't the body shop just cut out > whatever I had done? Yes, and by then the rust will have spread even further. Rust is like an iceberg: what you can see is only a small part of what's actually underneath. The longer you leave it, the worse it gets. A famous rustproofing company in my province has this apt slogan: "Rust Never Sleeps". > > > Live with it. Or sell the car. > > You mean get it fixed professionally or leave it as is? > Getting a new car just isn't something I can do right now. > Even a professional repair is problematic: no body shop I know of will warrant a rust repair. -- Tegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
#4
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How to deal with rust spot?
Grumpy AuContraire > wrote in
: >> > > > Or.... He could buy a rust free southwest car and swap his good parts > into it.. Gawd, I hate(d) those rust belt winters. Never again! > > OP seems to be in Oklahoma, based on his traces. Maybe the car was originally from further north. -- Tegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
#5
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How to deal with rust spot?
Tegger wrote:
> A famous rustproofing company in my province has this apt slogan: > "Rust Never Sleeps". Which is also the title of a Neil Young album. Who came up with first? |
#6
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How to deal with rust spot?
Grumpy AuContraire wrote: > Tegger wrote: > > > > Peabody > wrote in news:0PGgh.13150 > > : > > > > > I have a 94 Accord with only 54K miles, but have one rust spot near > > > the passenger side rear wheel well. Actually, it's right above the > > > seam that runs horizontally back from the wheel well. I don't know > > > what the names of the panels are, but the lower one has the side > > > rear relector, and the upper one has the fuel tank door on the > > > driver side. In fact, if the fuel door was on the passenger side, > > > the rust would be directly below the middle of it, beginning about > > > an inch back from the wheel well. There was a parking lot ding > > > there some years ago. The rusted area is maybe two inches long and > > > one inch high. > > > > It's rusting from the inside. You'll never get rid of it now without > > spending hundreds of dollars to cut out all the old metal and weld in > > new. > > > > > > > > The paint appears to be bubbling up like an orange peel, but it's > > > still firm. Anyway, I would like to understand what I'm up against > > > to get this fixed. I assume a body shop is gonna want a couple > > > hundred bucks to fix it, maybe more. > > > > Yep. > > > > > Is there a chance I could get > > > in there with my Dremel tool, grind everything away, stuff some > > > Bondo in there, and hit it with touch-up paint, and at least prevent > > > the rust from spreading? Or is that a foolish idea? > > > > You'd spend an awful lot of time fixing it, only to see it bubble back > > up again in a year or so. One winter is usually as long as home-type > > repairs last. > > > > > > > > Advice? > > > > > > > > > > Live with it. Or sell the car. > > > > -- > > Tegger > > > > > Or.... He could buy a rust free southwest car and swap his good parts > into it.. Gawd, I hate(d) those rust belt winters. Never again! > > JT Thinking about plying my trade in warmer climes myself. Where are you at JT? |
#7
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How to deal with rust spot?
Tegger wrote: > > > > You mean get it fixed professionally or leave it as is? > > Getting a new car just isn't something I can do right now. > > > > > Even a professional repair is problematic: no body shop I know of will > warrant a rust repair. If I was gonna try to do a home repair, I'd probably use one of those fiberglass repair kits. I hear they work about the best out of the home remedies besides using new metal. Of course no matter what you use, if all the rust isn't cut out, it's a waste of time. It will be bubbling back up within a year. My accord has the beginnings of this problem. I probably oughta do something about it before it gets bad. I think the main reason for this happening is the rear drains get clogged up. Real common. Every time I hear of rust on an accord, it's always the same place. They say if you use the fiberglass kits, and do everything right, they hold up pretty well. I'm not sure how easy it would be to repair that particular spot though as far as access though. MK |
#8
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How to deal with rust spot?
Tegger wrote: > > Grumpy AuContraire > wrote in > : > > >> > > > > > > Or.... He could buy a rust free southwest car and swap his good parts > > into it.. Gawd, I hate(d) those rust belt winters. Never again! > > > > > > OP seems to be in Oklahoma, based on his traces. Maybe the car was > originally from further north. > > Oklahoma (especially as you go north) has a substantial amount of snow and "treatment" on highways. Probably not as bad as your neck of the woods though. Also, if the car was sold in OK, it stands a good chance that it was never rust proofed.. JT (Who has sworn off the rusty stuff for the rest of his time on earth) |
#9
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How to deal with rust spot?
Peabody wrote: > > Tegger says... > > >> Or.... He could buy a rust free southwest car and swap > >> his good parts into it.. Gawd, I hate(d) those rust > >> belt winters. Never again! > > > OP seems to be in Oklahoma, based on his traces. Maybe > > the car was originally from further north. > > No. The car has been in Tulsa since I bought it new in > 1994. It has 53K miles on it, and is always garaged except > for a couple hours a day (at the gym, and on errands). > Except for this one spot, the car is immaculate, inside and > out, and as far as I can tell, underneath. > > We get snow two or three times a year here, and they do use > road salt and sand at those times. But I'm not sure that's > the source of the problem - it seems like I would have seen > it other places on the car in 12 years if that were the > case. And, you know, rust just isn't a frequent problem > on cars here. > > But there was a parking lot ding at this spot which I > thought was responsible for the water getting in. But that > wouldn't be true if it's rusting from the inside. I also > can't figure out where the water would be coming from if > it's rusting from the inside. > > So the car is hardly a basket case, and I don't think > Oklahoma is officially part of the rust belt. I think it > makes sense to fix it if that's possible because it has lots > of useful life left in it. > > The problem I would have working on it myself is that I > don't think I can get behind it. Immediately behind it is > whatever makes up the wheel well. I don't think there's > more than 1/4" separating them at that point. And I think > removing the entire panel would be a major job - it goes > from the rear light assembly, up over both windows and just > past the side-view mirror. I would have no trouble cutting > out whatever needs to be removed. It's just figuring out > how to fill that in when I can't reach around behind it. > > Well, I'll take it to a body shop and see what they say. > Maybe also the Honda dealer, just to see if they have any > different view of it. > > Thanks for everyone's advice. It's possible that it might be an isolated incident. Hell, my '83 Civic FE has two bubbling areas on the roof rust forward of the rubber filled grooves. And this is an original TX car sold in this area back in '83. Jack the car up, observe safety rules for using jack stands and poke around underneath. Bad areas should reveal themselves without a lot of fanfare... JT |
#10
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How to deal with rust spot?
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