88 civic starter problem?

"Jeremy" > wrote
> "Caroline" > wrote
> > "Jeremy" > wrote
> > > "Randolph" > wrote
> > snip
> > > > Many Hondas have a feature where the alternator output voltage
is
> > > > dropped at idle under low-load conditions in order to save
fuel. I
> > know
> > > > they did this as far back as '94, not sure if they did it in
'88.
> > On my
> > > > '94 Civic you can defeat this voltage reduction by stepping on
the
> > > > brakes (foot pedal only, hand brake does not count).
> >
> > On my 1991 Civic, turning on the headlights defeats it.
> >
> > In other words, starting the car in the morning in summer
temperatures
> > and no loads yields a battery terminal voltage of 12.7 volts.
Turn on
> > the headlights, and it jumps to between 14 and 14.5 volts.
> >
>
> It seems that the '88 Civic has this built in as well, as stepping
on the
> brakes and raising the RPM to 2500-3000 did engage the alternator.
So
> there's good news: the alternator's working (for now).

For the archives:

I also checked an online subscription auto repair resource called
"AllData" (not available to the public per se but at my local
community college) yesterday. For both the 91 Civic and the 1988
Civic, the steps for checking the alternator's voltage regulator
explicitly include turning on just the headlights with the car
running. The battery terminal voltage is supposed to go up when the
headlight load is applied for both models.

Kinda funny how different the checks are from Autozone to Chilton's to
the UK site's to AllData's. They're usually almost identical. But it's
also cool that AllData recommends a check that some of us formulated
on our own.

Hope you get your car fixed!

"Jeremy"
> "Graham W"
> > "Jeremy"
> > Don't throw either Main Relay unit away since the 'dry' joint is just
> > about the only thing that goes wrong with them and that is mendable.

>I haven't been terribly motivated to get back in there
> and pull it out again... I will have to pull it out in the near future and
> open it up to look for dry joints though. Hopefully that will be the
> problem,

Reach up and tap on it. Usually this will start the car if it's the problem.
Mount it lower next time. About that starter, I've taken the solenoid
and starter apart before on this vehicle. The solenoid is not built to last
compared to the starter. That is why you'll do better to load test the
starter inside the car. The solenoid is cheaper than a starter, so decide
carefully how to spend your college money.

Rick

"Ricky Spartacus" > wrote in message
news:1099455445.mi/nf4PxghNKuCVDejIlHw@bubbanews...
> "Jeremy"
> > "Graham W"
> > > "Jeremy"
> > > Don't throw either Main Relay unit away since the 'dry' joint is just
> > > about the only thing that goes wrong with them and that is mendable.
>
> >I haven't been terribly motivated to get back in there
> > and pull it out again... I will have to pull it out in the near future
and
> > open it up to look for dry joints though. Hopefully that will be the
> > problem,
>
> Reach up and tap on it. Usually this will start the car if it's the
problem.

I'll try this next time the issue arises... thanks

> Mount it lower next time.



> About that starter, I've taken the solenoid
> and starter apart before on this vehicle. The solenoid is not built to
last
> compared to the starter. That is why you'll do better to load test the
> starter inside the car. The solenoid is cheaper than a starter, so decide
> carefully how to spend your college money.
>

In the end, this is exactly what was done... but since my mechanical
know-how really does not extend beyond re & re (if that! ) I brought it
into the shop again and paid the $45 shop rate plus the solenoid
replacement... under $100 (Canadian) in the end. Not bad...

Thanks for the advice!

Jeremy

"Caroline" > wrote in message
news:5HQhd.17162
>
> For the archives:
>
> I also checked an online subscription auto repair resource called
> "AllData" (not available to the public per se but at my local
> community college) yesterday. For both the 91 Civic and the 1988
> Civic, the steps for checking the alternator's voltage regulator
> explicitly include turning on just the headlights with the car
> running. The battery terminal voltage is supposed to go up when the
> headlight load is applied for both models.
>
> Kinda funny how different the checks are from Autozone to Chilton's to
> the UK site's to AllData's. They're usually almost identical. But it's
> also cool that AllData recommends a check that some of us formulated
> on our own.
>
> Hope you get your car fixed!
>

Thanks Caroline... that's interesting stuff, I'll be sure to remember it
next time my battery fails. For now, all is well again... (aside from the
main relay that I won't get to for a few weeks)... next I get to worry about
the erratic idle problem, but I think I can get most of the info I need on
that from either Haynes, Chilton, or the archives of this group.

peace...Jer