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body lift vs. suspension lift



 
 
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  #1  
Old May 17th 04, 06:26 AM
Hoc Phan
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Default body lift vs. suspension lift

Which one is harder to do between body lift and suspension lift? I
never done one and would like to learn. I plan to do it with a F250.
Where would be a best place to learn online? Thanks.
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  #2  
Old May 17th 04, 03:23 PM
TOXICTAVRN
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Default

>Which one is harder to do between body lift and suspension lift? I
>never done one and would like to learn. I plan to do it with a F250.
>Where would be a best place to learn online? Thanks.
>


do a search on google, theres tons of stuff, first click i got was this

Body Lift vs. Suspension Lift

A suspension lift leaves the body to frame mounting the same. The additional
"clearance" arises from the increase distance from the frame to the axles (i.e.
when vehicle at rest). The geometry for the drivetrain & steering will be
altered.

A body lift has spacers which are inserted between the frame and body. There
is no net increase in ground clearance (w/ the same tires before/after body
lift). The geometry of the drivetrain / steering is not affected.

A good rule to thumb is to not lift more than you need for tire clearance.



Suspension lift:
- Increases the center of gravity more than body lift (remember the
engine/frame is lifted too)
- Suspension/handling performance will change, for the better or worse depends
on too many factors to list.
- Avoid blocks, they are dangerous and increase spring wrap.
- You may have problems with:
- shocks (you usually need longer ones)
- driveshaft(s) (may not be long enough)
- transmission/transfer case (may need shims)
- front-end alignment (may need larger shims)
- may need *dropped* pitman arm


Body lift:
- The kit is cheap, but there are a few modifications which raise the cost:
- lowering the radiator (especially if you have a shroud)
- lowering clutch linkage (for manuals, don't know about automatics)
- may have to enlarge hole around stick shift to make the throws for gear
changes as well as possibly extend the shifter if its a standard
- gas filler neck may need to be extended
- steering column may not extend enough (the gear box is on the frame)
- brake lines (from the master cylinder to the frame)


do your research before you tackle either one, they both can be a pain in the
ass if your not prepared



Shepherds we shall be for thee my lord for thee Power hath decended forth from
thy hand so our feet may swiftly carry out thy command We shall flow a river
forth to thee and teeming with souls shall it ever be In nomine Patris et Filii
et Spiritus Sancti
  #3  
Old May 17th 04, 03:23 PM
TOXICTAVRN
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

>Which one is harder to do between body lift and suspension lift? I
>never done one and would like to learn. I plan to do it with a F250.
>Where would be a best place to learn online? Thanks.
>


do a search on google, theres tons of stuff, first click i got was this

Body Lift vs. Suspension Lift

A suspension lift leaves the body to frame mounting the same. The additional
"clearance" arises from the increase distance from the frame to the axles (i.e.
when vehicle at rest). The geometry for the drivetrain & steering will be
altered.

A body lift has spacers which are inserted between the frame and body. There
is no net increase in ground clearance (w/ the same tires before/after body
lift). The geometry of the drivetrain / steering is not affected.

A good rule to thumb is to not lift more than you need for tire clearance.



Suspension lift:
- Increases the center of gravity more than body lift (remember the
engine/frame is lifted too)
- Suspension/handling performance will change, for the better or worse depends
on too many factors to list.
- Avoid blocks, they are dangerous and increase spring wrap.
- You may have problems with:
- shocks (you usually need longer ones)
- driveshaft(s) (may not be long enough)
- transmission/transfer case (may need shims)
- front-end alignment (may need larger shims)
- may need *dropped* pitman arm


Body lift:
- The kit is cheap, but there are a few modifications which raise the cost:
- lowering the radiator (especially if you have a shroud)
- lowering clutch linkage (for manuals, don't know about automatics)
- may have to enlarge hole around stick shift to make the throws for gear
changes as well as possibly extend the shifter if its a standard
- gas filler neck may need to be extended
- steering column may not extend enough (the gear box is on the frame)
- brake lines (from the master cylinder to the frame)


do your research before you tackle either one, they both can be a pain in the
ass if your not prepared



Shepherds we shall be for thee my lord for thee Power hath decended forth from
thy hand so our feet may swiftly carry out thy command We shall flow a river
forth to thee and teeming with souls shall it ever be In nomine Patris et Filii
et Spiritus Sancti
 




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