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Distributor cap/cover 1997 Civic
On Mar 21, 10:47 pm, Tegger > wrote:
> wrote groups.com: > > > > > On Mar 21, 8:58 am, Tegger > wrote: > >> wrote in news:1174466850.112426.49170 > >> @p15g2000hsd.googlegroups.com: > > >> > I still cannot figure out what's wrong > >> > with my car. Long story short, I bought it brand new, never had a > >> > problem with it, EVER, and then last week it suddenly stopped > >> > running in the middle of the road! Without warning! Weird, eh? > > >> Not "weird". If your spark disappears, the car will not run. You've > >> never checked for spark, have you? > > >> 90% of start problems are ignition-related. Right now yours sounds > >> like the igniter. > > >> > It's not the timing belt (checked), it's not the fuel system > >> > (checked), and now it's down to ignition... > > >> Could have told you that right from the beginning in that other > >> thread you started then abandoned. 90% of start problems are > >> ignition-related. > > >> Instead of yakkin' it up in here, go do some actual diagnostics > >> instead. You never know, you might just find your problem. > > >> Check out this handy > >> page:http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/startproblems.html > > > Tegger > > > I took your advice, thank you; didn't mean to abandon that other > > thread - new at this discussion board. > > > Now, I have checked for spark - there's not. That's why I wanted to > > know how to take off the distributor cover - I did that too, and it > > all looks fine - even the rotor seems to be in good shape. Later > > today I'm supposed to get a multimeter and see what pans out. > > > Now, please be gentle, I hope this isn't a stupid question: I spoke > > to someone at the dealership today, and he said that even though it > > appeared that the timing belt wasn't broken, it could have 'jumped > > time' since the engine was in 4th, and a load was applied when it > > stopped running. Is this an actual possibility, what he's saying, > > that the belt could still be on there but 'loose'? I'd not read > > anything on these boards about it and it seemed that he might have > > less than good motives for coming up with something like that.. > > > Thanks for your help, again, Tegger, much appreciated. > > When a timing belt jumps, it normally does it at the crank pulley. This > means the camshaft(s) will be out of time, so the ignition will be off as > well. You'll likely still get spark at the plugs, but it may be weak. > > There are only two ways to make sure it's not the belt: > 1) Hook up timing light to #1 plug and crank. Check timing at crank pulley. > Timing should be between TDC and the group of three marks. > 2) Remove valve cover. Crank engine over by hand (COUNTER-clockwise) with a > 19mm socket and ratchet until #1 piston is at TDC compression. Cam marks > should then be lined up. If they're way off, the belt has jumped. > > If the timing belt is OK (and I suspect it is), you need to take a logical > route backwards from the plugs. If you followed my advice on how to check > for spark and didn't see any at the plugs, then you need to find out why. > > The first thing to check is your tachometer, if you have one. If you crank > and the tach needle is dead-still, then the igniter is bad. If the tach > needle bounces a bit, then it's probably the coil that's died. > > If you don't have a tach, you need use a multimeter and backprobe the blue > wire at the distributor connector. While cranking, the multimeter should > show voltage at the blue wire. If it does, the igniter is fine. If it does > not, the igniter is dead. > > One thing I've run into once or twice is a failed RF resistor in the > distributor rotor. This will kill the current to the distributor cap and > will then kill the coil. > > -- > Tegger > > The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQwww.tegger.com/hondafaq/ Thanks Tegger, what a great help. I had no idea about the tach; yes, I do have one, and that makes things much easier. I will check that first thing, along with the timing, and, once again, thank you so much for being such an incredible resource |
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