how do I strip down austin 10 engine?

I have just got a 1936 Austin 10. I have looked at the engine and the
plugs were not put back in at least 10 years ago (just sitting on the
holes). I guess that the inside is now as rusty as the outside and
will not turn at all by the handle or gently rocking in gear. I will
have to take the head off and have a look but I am not familiar with
side valve engines.
Are there any tips you can give me or anywhere I can look?

Thanks
Ron

Start with some Liquid Wrench, or similar penetrating oil, in each
cylinder. Just use enough to cover the top ring with about an eighth
inch of oil.

Spin the spark plugs in by hand and go read a good book (see also War
and Peace...).

In about a week or so, test for movement. Repeat the process as necessary.

It took years for this condition to develop, so it will not gently be
reversed quickly.

I used this process to free up a 327 Chevy motor for a project. In my
case, it took between three and four weeks to break loose the ring to
cylinder wall rust bond. The block required a .30 over bore to get past
the pitting.

Tim

Ron wrote:
> I have just got a 1936 Austin 10. I have looked at the engine and the
> plugs were not put back in at least 10 years ago (just sitting on the
> holes). I guess that the inside is now as rusty as the outside and
> will not turn at all by the handle or gently rocking in gear. I will
> have to take the head off and have a look but I am not familiar with
> side valve engines.
> Are there any tips you can give me or anywhere I can look?
>
> Thanks
> Ron

Ron,
I have a DKW 2-stroke engine that was seized solid when I got it. I got
plenty of advice about using diesel fuel, ATF, even Coke. The problem was
that the stuff would not stay in all of the cylinders. Yes, the cylinders
whose rings were above the valves (2 of them) did eventually break free, one
quite easily, the second after slugging the piston crown out and pressing
against the con-rods. I removed the crankcase bottom and used dial
indicators to make sure I wasn't bending the crankshaft. I had my brother
fashion up a press of sorts out of a 2" thick block of die steel with 1"
threaded holes centered on the cylinder bores bolted on to the block using
the head bolts. Began pressing on slices to softwood to reduce the stress
concentration on the piston crowns, but it appears that I'll have to cut the
wrist pin on the last piston to finally free the crankshaft/con rods (DKW's
were pressed together).
Anything you pour in there will leak out, unless you can block the
intake/exhaust ports that are open. You might try entirely submersing the
engine in Diesel fuel for a month or so - I've heard of that being done
(provided that you have a tank big enough and can dispose of the left over
diesel after you have finished).
Cheers!
Steve Sears
1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes
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"The Guy" > wrote in message
...
> Start with some Liquid Wrench, or similar penetrating oil, in each
> cylinder. Just use enough to cover the top ring with about an eighth
> inch of oil.
>
> Spin the spark plugs in by hand and go read a good book (see also War
> and Peace...).
>
> In about a week or so, test for movement. Repeat the process as
necessary.
>
> It took years for this condition to develop, so it will not gently be
> reversed quickly.
>
> I used this process to free up a 327 Chevy motor for a project. In my
> case, it took between three and four weeks to break loose the ring to
> cylinder wall rust bond. The block required a .30 over bore to get past
> the pitting.
>
> Tim
>
> Ron wrote:
> > I have just got a 1936 Austin 10. I have looked at the engine and the
> > plugs were not put back in at least 10 years ago (just sitting on the
> > holes). I guess that the inside is now as rusty as the outside and
> > will not turn at all by the handle or gently rocking in gear. I will
> > have to take the head off and have a look but I am not familiar with
> > side valve engines.
> > Are there any tips you can give me or anywhere I can look?
> >
> > Thanks
> > Ron
>